ok, ready to buy some things for our yerf 3206

[travlinmanus]

We got us a lil 3206 a couple weeks ago..been doin some reading and think i understand a lil more..These wheel hubs were on another thread.
http://www.*************/item/Heavy-Duty-4-on-4-Wheel-Hub-260056-3203
Good? And now rims. The same thread mentioned 4'' trailer rims. Correct?
4'' seems small to me, will that give me good enough clearance? What all size tires can be mounted to these? Is that the norm? Ball joints, i have found several sets around $60., any recomendations? Hoping to order these parts in next day or two. Headed to the country in 2 weeks and want her ready to go. Thanks..

[metalstudman1]

Haven't seen a post about the hubs you've listed to break.Tire clearance is based off the spindle bolt length,rim off-set and spacer behind the rim length. The hubs you listed will allow for 8",9",10" & possibly bigger rims. With a modified rack with more grooves for more turning radius the tallest tire I could run was 21"T x 8"W without rubbing the frame in full turn. The ball joints regardless the quality lasting are all about your driving abuse and terrain (of course shocks play a role as well). If you're going on rough terrain and drive aggressively they will fail eventually even the HD ones!!!! All the mod's to the frontend we try are to increase the abuse factor and longevity- testing is still being done to find those affordable parts that will last. Doing a visual inspection of the buggy prior to driving and normal maintenance/lubricating/nut & bolt tightening will stretch the failure rate on all the parts & minumize your down time.

[T3beatz]

I have those hubs and they have been great so far, they even come with a grease zert, for what I don't know, the grease just would float around inside.

I'm thinking they meant 4 on 4 trailer rims... 4"x4" square bolt pattern.

great place to get trailer rims at an affordable price...http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Tires_and_Wheels-sf-Wheel_Only.aspx they ship fast! I just bought 2 of the 8x5-3/8" rims and valve stems for $46 bucks shipped.

tires I went on ebay and found some 21x7-8 ones (hard to find) I didn't think they made them but they do. I got them today and the tread is pretty good, and they are 4ply. http://www.ebay.com/itm/21x7-8-Front-Tire-GY6-150cc-200cc-250cc-Kazuma-Roketa-TaoTao-ATV-4-Wheeler-TR44-/250976521178?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6f5dcbda&vxp=mtr#ht_2376wt_1397

Ball joints are good temp fixes as MSM stated, but in the long run you'll want to upgrade to something else.

[travlinmanus]

Thanks.. What is a good all around size of rim and tire. Terrain will be rough but not too bad, mostly wooded trails, cow pasture, and a oval dirt track..if it gets to bad we can just smooth it a little with the dozer. We ride dirt bikes in same area, the yerf will allow my recently disabled wife to partcipate.There are a couple smaller runoffs with shallow creeks we like to cross.

[travlinmanus]

thanks t3, my post took forever to post..I have read of the heim joints, maybe harder to steer? Easier steering is preferred if possible, even at the cost of maybe having a couple extra ball joints handy.

[metalstudman1]

Love that you're prepping this for your wife so she can share in the fun.Your front tire selection should be based off the size of the rear tires for height- A nose down kart tends to scrub in the turns more than a level chassis bottom. 8" rims are very common and the tires for an 8" rim tend to have tons of variety fairly cheap. Are your rears the stock tires?

[travlinmanus]

yes, the rears are stock for now.

[travlinmanus]

looks like 9'' rims on the rear. Guess be a good idea to replace the rear tires at least for now? 9'' for the front also then?

[T3beatz]

Thanks.. What is a good all around size of rim and tire. Terrain will be rough but not too bad, mostly wooded trails, cow pasture, and a oval dirt track..if it gets to bad we can just smooth it a little with the dozer. We ride dirt bikes in same area, the yerf will allow my recently disabled wife to partcipate.There are a couple smaller runoffs with shallow creeks we like to cross.

8" rims with 20" tires if your gonna stick with the stock ones for now... here is a good set for less than $99 bucks, if you add a key chain to the order you get free shipping (orders over $99.00 ships free) http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/50/81/165/723/-/5381/Kenda-Front-Max-ATV-Tire
If the rear is the stock set they are 8" rims also.

Most people go with 22" rims on the rear... but anything 20 inches and above should be fine. You just dont want to go lower, because you want clearance for the sprocket and break rotor.

The heims on the tie rod ends might make steering it harder (I've heard), but on the a-arms things get much better, and they are more durable then the ball joints. And replacing a heim is less than half the cost of one ball joint.

[travlinmanus]

thanks t3. I looked at ur ride (sweet by the way) and i get what you say about the heim and ball joints. Can you loosen the heims if to stiff, not sure how that works. can you add teflon to reduce friction of the heims or is it already there?

[travlinmanus]

loved the link for the rims. Question, whats the difference between the 5-3/8 and 5x7. Just a little more squat from the tire?

[T3beatz]

They are prettymuch maintenance free, I usually just squirt a little WD40 on them before I ride... I plan on putting some thicker chain grease on them when I get some.

You can't loosen them they are not stiff at all. You can adjust the camber of the tires with the heims, with the stock setup you can't. The heim just screws into a threaded bung and is locked in place by a Jam nut. You can adjust the heim to how much you want it sticking out. So for negative camber you move the top one in and screw the bottom one out.

As far as the rim size if you go with the 8x7 vs the 8x5-3/8" rims, the tire may look wider and be sit a little lower.

either one should work with a 20x7x8 tire, but the 8x5-3/8" will be better because the tire will stick out more on the sides than the rims, protecting them from dings and scratches.

If you go with the hubs from BMI karts... purchase some Hi-speed bearings with them... they come with some crappy low speed bearings that will only last you a couple weeks at best (they are the ones installed in the pic on the site)! they sell the hi-speed bearings for like 2 bucks each. http://www.*************/item/High-Speed-Wheel-Bearing-with-Snap-Ring-58-x-1-38-600630-5887

Yeah, my buggy is getting there, but still far from done... I just purchased a new set of tires and rims, from the links I provided you and I'm about to go change them out as we speak, LOL. I also have a new set of front shocks on the way to try out.

[metalstudman1]

The Heims I complained about were @ the steering arms not the spindle/ball joint location. With the front end set-up stock they shouldn't create more effort on the steering arms- my situation with the Heims was different and the ball joint @ the rack was in a bind due to much taller suspension creating drag. The Heim replacement option @ the spindle instead of ball joints makes for a smoother more controlled ride.
Rim size doesn't really matter unless you plan on front brakes, find an affordable rim and tire combo that get's you 20" tall or more like T3beatz says- (you have 110mm bolt pattern)
T3beatz- chain lube doesn't provide any better lubrication for the Heims than WD-40.

[T3beatz]

Yeah, wd40 works but i was thinking the chain lube would last a tad longer, it would be a little thicker and not run off as fast. I have some white lithium grease that I'm using now also, so maybe that will work.

[travlinmanus]

thanks for the heads up on the hub bearings.Heims sound like the way to go, but will run the ball joints for now till next failure. mite as well fab it all at once, tie rod, bungs ect. I like the sound of the adjustable heims..will the hubs i get now still work with future spindle upgrade?

[x-bird]

I'd stay away from anything that will collect dirt and stick with a very light wet or dry film lube with an occasional rinse out with brake cleaner. http://www.midwestcontrol.com/search.php?searchTerm=rod+end+boots&doSearch=go has rod end boots ...

[T3beatz]

The white lithium seems to work pretty good, I put it on last night, let it sit up and it is a lot thicker than wd-40. Went riding for a minute, came back and sprayed the buggy off, most of the dirt went away and the lithium is still intact.

[travlinmanus]

4 on 4 rims or 110 mm like the rears?

[T3beatz]

4 on 4 on the front and 110mm on the back is what most people go with.

You can get 4x4" front rims in 8 or 10" size.

What other upgrades do you plan on doing to the front end? Just like MSM said if you plan on going with front breaks you will want to get some of the BDX front hubs (110mm). They are a bolt up application but they have been out of stock for ever. You also have to send the spindles in to have them weld on tabs to mount the break calipers.

[travlinmanus]

thanks t3, not thinking front brakes at this time. not even doing heims at this point, got the hd ball joints coming. If heims or spindle work is needed My job has a full machine shop and a machinist that can be bought for a case of diet coke and a box of fudge from Bass Pro Shops..lol..Going with the 8'' rim and 20x7x8 tires on the front. Shocks all around will be next month. Trying to get the front end done before next weekend so can take her to the country with us. Gonna order the hubs in a few minutes.I assume the tie rods will have to be lengthened a little.Tires.. are a toss up. So many choices around same price 45-50 a piece. I live in houston area and have found a couple places that have some in stock, no wait time and no shipping. No wife and kids this weekend, its working on the yerf weekend.lol

[metalstudman1]

The steering arms/tie rods only change length when you use different size shocks (or heims instead of ball joints). Can I get that machinist's number?!!!!

[travlinmanus]

thanks mms. very new to this, I have surfed a couple other sites and yours dominates! Way more info in threads, killer links(that i use) and friendly help. I will take pics to share.
and ya, I am way lucky to have access to a mach shop, no knowdledge but access.lol

[travlinmanus]

http://recstuff.com/8X5.375-4-4-Black-Bell-Trailer-Wheel.aspx
how does this look. only $12 shipping. Thats like $36 for a pair to the door..

[T3beatz]

Well there ya go they look about right and the price is right also. good find.

[travlinmanus]

Hi yall. Do these look like they been welded on before? Is that the week spot, where axle meets spindle? I reckon i am gona have a little 'touchup' done here..one has a heat ring from welding, the other is just a thicker weld.

[metalstudman1]

They've been welded on before. The fact that the bolt/spindle is welded to the face side only makes them weak.I never know what type of punishment individuals may subject they're buggies too, these wouldn't last a week in our trails & our normal abuse level. For the spindle bolt to have a chance at long term survival it needs to be drilled through the rectangle tube. I suggest you cut them off- go buy 2- 1/2" x 7" x 5/8" grade 8 bolts(Fastenal has a huge inventory if you can't find them elsewhere & good drill bits), cut 2- 1/4" x 2" x 4-3/4" pieces of flat stock. Drill the tube (through both front & back) and the plate together for the 5/8" bolts. Weld the bolt to the tube with a single good weld both places, then grind/clean-up the weld on the long portion where the drilled plate will fit on the rectangle tube over the bolt and weld the plate around the perimeter only. This let's you align the bolt, and keeps the temper in the bolt where it counts.

[travlinmanus]

thanks mms, sounds good. I got a fastenal a few miles away. I'll take the spindles to work this week and fix em as you stated. As long as having them worked on , anything else?

[metalstudman1]

The 7" length is variable to your needs.Your old spacers rim seems thick, I found that the spacer needs to match the inner race size to avoid overheating.

[travlinmanus]

Thanks mms, your remarks were took to heart, The bolt length was perfect Props... Had the spindles worked on, not excactly what i asked for but it was free and i didnt do a thing..lol.I explained in pretty good detail but he's cuban and not much good english..lol. Known and worked with him 20 years... He said he would like to draw some up in c.a.d. and build me some from solid stock, good?
The ups man was good to me the last couple days also.. hubs, ball joints, rims. it was like x-mas for me.. assembly tommorrow nite.. Should i test drive with new stuff or just do the grooves in the steering rack anywasys? Thanks for all the input..

[xlint89]

Just add the grooves to the steering rack. It really is a poor turning radius without the additional teeth.

[metalstudman1]

The rack grooves can be done anytime-But you'll want to do it!!!! The spindles look excellent and very close to the description!! Pat your buddy on the back. Just remember the ball joints set on top of the spindle flanges, rubber up.

[metalstudman1]

He said he would like to draw some up in c.a.d. and build me some from solid stock, good?

I didn't provide an opinion on this question- I'd think solid stock would be a total waste of steel,time and drill bit abuse!!!

[T3beatz]

I wish I knew your friend! I'm going through something right now, trying to find someone who can unbend my spindle... I nicked a tree the other day and the part where the tie rod end bolts to is pretty bent and twisted up. I managed to get it unbent good enough to put it on the buggy but I'm gonna need some heat to get where it needs to be.

[travlinmanus]

Thanks, I was thinking same thing about solid spindle, Rather use my favors up on something else..

[travlinmanus]

Here are some updates. Got ahold of some used tires cheap. They were on a 4 x 110m pattern rim, like new, with rim $35 each. Already had ordered the 4x4 hubs and rims, so i swaped the tires to the new rims, bolted the rest of it together, fired it up and went for our maiden voyage.. So now it has the hd ball joints, repaired spindles, 4x4 hubs, 8'' rims and 19x7x8 tires. WAY more fun, turning is better but still not acceptable. Gona pull the rack out mon and have it notched.(still have some reading to do on that subject). It soaks up the bumps much better, but shocks next for sure. The front end seems a little "loose" so need to check that out some more this weekend. I can see where this will get addicting..When me and my hon went for a ride all i could think of was what upgrade was next.lol We are gona ride it hard this weekend, have fun and see what happens. Thanks for all the good advice thus far...

[T3beatz]

Those are some pretty good tires for 35 bucks! Mine are the same pattern (from china) and they are 4ply, I paid about 115 bucks shipped for the set 21x7x8 ones that I have.

Notching the rack is not hard to do, I did it without measuring and was successful my first try! but I wouldn't recommend doing that, I have a tuned eye. lol Two notches on both sides and turning is much, much, better!

Change out all the stock front end bolts to grade 8 ones, and also get some new bushings for the A-arms. My bushings are still the stock ones and that is where 90% of the play in my front is, the rest is pretty much solid.

As far as shocks, I have some of the $80.00 ebay ones on mine right now and they are great so for.

[metalstudman1]

Those tires are nice!!! Glad you're getting the "FUN" factor out of your toy. T3beatz is correct about the bolts and bushings, drilling and tapping a grease zerk in the A-arm to grease the bolts helps them last longer. Front shocks will make a HUGE difference, the stock shocks are just springs with no dampening. Good shocks will aid in ride comfort as well as equipment longevity. You can groove the rack as T3beatz suggests or all on the long side of the rack, center the groves up and re-set the steering yolk, WARNING- with the turning radius tighter, it will roll easier!!!

[travlinmanus]

Thanks for the roll tip ms1. We been having a blast on this thing. My 15 yr old daughter was smiling from ear to ear to drive this thing. Now just one problem, when we are hoping along some rough riding trail the carb seems to run dry. Its fine on a long smooth run but get off road and bouncing along it seems to run dry. I then have to prime it to get it to run again.. Thinking of a new carb. There are several on ebay for around $25-$30. Standard gy6 24mm..

[metalstudman1]

This sounds like a fuel delivery issue, not a carb issue. If the carb is dry it's not getting enough fuel from the source. Check your line ,tank and see if the vent has fallen off the cap!! On the inside of a stock Yerfdog cap is a plastic rod/pin holding a cover for the vent, when it falls off it can cover the fuel hole. remove the tank(it's only 2 bolts and shake the tank. Also upgrade to some clear fuel line and a fuel filter- this let's you see where the fuel is and increase the line to 1/4".

[travlinmanus]

Thanks mms. I tried... I cleaned the tank, new 1/4" lines and filter. Still wants to die after a couple rough bumps..I mean ROUGH.. We been beating the hell out of this thing..lol There is a lot of air in line between tank and filter, solid fuel from filter to carb. Runs fine most of time, even on long straight, no problem with fuel. But when she gets to bouncing and hopping she dies. Starts back up with little priming and then good to go till next rough bumps..???

[x-bird]

intake elbow might be cracked.

[travlinmanus]

hmmm..xbird..i check that out.but not make sense to me.. I used to have an ole blazer 4x4 with carb that when bounced around the fuel in bowl would splash around and flood carb or at least empty the bowls.. The reason many guys switch to fuel injection. Can the same happen in these lil carbs?

[metalstudman1]

If it's not from the tank then I agree with x-bird about the cracked or leaking intake--or a loose electrical connection (start with the coil)
Doubt the bouncing is causing the carb issue- FYI-I built and owned 3 older Jimmy/Blazers (1 ton's on 48's) and never had a problem with the carb getting dry due to bouncing (it woud get loaded up sometimes at extreme angles) and they were all running off an engine mechanical pump.
What is "a little priming" that you keep talking about?

[travlinmanus]

Thanks mms...LOL..Prime for lack of a better term. i mean a shot of starting fluid. Wont start up again without that or a few drops of fuel into the carb. It will then fire and idle and run fine. I never even thought of electrical or intake because of needing fuel help to start after dies..... Flooded carb is what i was talking about "bouncing",lol, My k5 would run dry or flood or whatever it was doin with electric or mechanical pump (yup, i tried both), if the terrain was right unless you just held the hammer down. pump her up a few times and off you go. Even with a new carb, ..Had a bronco that did the same thing, sold it to a buddy he did a fuel injection swap and it would run inverted.lol I believe it was a mustang he robbed the brain, intake, ect from... Possible I just not know how to tune it right.lol We were just a bunch of farmboys playing in the woods.. or maybe we rode harder..lol....Back to yerf.I will check the intake and then electrical. I could see where a fine crack could spread open allowing too much air for a second or so but ?..when it dies i am always thru the rough stuff then it bogs and dies like out of fuel, prime, fire it up and good to go..Thanks..

[metalstudman1]

Is the vacuum line from the carb to the intake manifold hooked up or leaking?Did we already discuss carb cleaning?!!!
I was a farm boy!!!! and drove like one!!! actually ran a dual carb on a 671 blower on one of them.

[travlinmanus]

Well howdy fellow farm boy..Dual carbs and blower, wow, making some serious hp there. bet that was a blast to run down some furrows of a bean field..I cleaned the carb, twice to get it right..lol.. Vacuum line looks good but could be leaking.. maybe some smoke can tell me...new one on the list now anyways.. Thanks for the hint mms. Has to be something related to the carb, nothing else makes sense. She runs great except for this glitch. Loving the front end mods you and others had informed us newbies of..actually thinking of getting another one with reverse rather than a kit for this one. What could be better than 2 yerfs..lol

[kliff]

Had a similar problem once, and it was the vacuum petcock. I cannot to this day explain why it would stop flowing fuel, but on really rough ground, it was like it lost it's vacuum, and shut the fuel supply off. A new petcock, manual style, solved the problem. Might be something you want to try, before buying a new caeb.

[travlinmanus]

thanks kliff

[travlinmanus]

Well all, It appears it was the vacuum. Put on new lines and no problems yet. Thanks to mms and others for the hints. Kids and I are having a blast on this thing. We ride it pretty hard. Even a little air here and there. Front end is holding up well.. Next is shocks and motor mods...Pics will follow..

[xlint89]

Get a stronger motor mount before the stock one fails and takes parts with it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Go-Kart-Cart-Yerf-Dog-Yerfdog-Spiderbox-Chain-Tensioner-Bracket-Bolt-New-/190671256120?pt=Go_Karts&hash=item2c64e47a38

[travlinmanus]

First i heard of this... Link was for a chain tensioner.? But i will check it out while doing rear shocks and motor mods.

[kliff]

First i heard of this... Link was for a chain tensioner.? But i will check it out while doing rear shocks and motor mods.
The chain tensioner is the rear mount...it performs double duty, and it's just a matter of who you're talking to, as to what it is called.

Yup, they do break, usually at a most in-oportune time., some of us make ours, same design, just use a grade 8 SAE thread bolt, and heavier gage metal for the stirrup, or buy the heavy duty piece, like the one listed, which usually doesn't come with any nuts, btw...:drive:

[T3beatz]

this is the one I bought... it comes with everything shown, it's a little more heavy duty than the stock one. I had to modify the little spacer in the middle of the rubber piece so the rubber absorbed more shock (I just cut it in half its the part that is under the washer in the pic). Basically the spacer was to long and the rubber was not making contact with anything.

Sometimes highrpmracer sucks to deal with, when they are good they are good, when they are bad they are horrible.

[xlint89]

The chain tensioner is the rear mount...it performs double duty, and it's just a matter of who you're talking to, as to what it is called.

Yup, they do break, usually at a most in-oportune time., some of us make ours, same design, just use a grade 8 SAE thread bolt, and heavier gage metal for the stirrup, or buy the heavy duty piece, like the one listed, which usually doesn't come with any nuts, btw...:drive:I made the mistake of getting the overly priced BD one.

They made it out of SAE bolt, and i don't think it's even hardened.

So I had to redrill the holes, and buy new nuts to match. It was a joke....


Then i saw that one BMI carried..... For cheap. :ack:

[travlinmanus]

Well, back to fixin and modding. My daughter pegged a tree head on at about half throttle. She was ok but a bruise on her knee. The entire passanger side is tore up. Pulled bolts thru the bulkhead, bent the upper arm, bend steering rack, broke shock. Spindle and ball joints survived. So, new shocks are a must, reworking the bulkhead, ordering a new arm. Looking at the new steering rack with 11 extra teeth.. I reckon new bushings also..will post before and after pics soon..

[T3beatz]

Wow! sorry to hear that, glad to hear your daughter is ok. I'd like to know how they got 11 extra teeth on the rack, with 4 (2 on each side) and the rack in the stock place you cant get any extra on the short side.

You have a lot of work ahead of you.... Get to fixin!

[travlinmanus]

Thanks T3...She was upset at herself. I assured her it was ok, her reply was" Ya dad I know you can fix it, but now I cant ride anymore this weekend".lol...Gona have to talk my wife into letting me buy a welder...My bad, its 8 extra teeth..Dont know how I saw 11 in the add?? Buggy depot has them for $125.00 in stock...They also have a shock kit with 3'' of lift...I already have 19's on the front and stock rears, guess with that shock kit i will need bigger back tires to try to keep her level? We are having a blast on this thing so it WILL be fixed..My only concern is if i beef up the front end more the next wreck mite be worse, the bolts ripping thru the bulkhead cushioned the impact.

[T3beatz]

even 8 extra teeth seems a bit much... (2 extra teeth on each side is perfect) ask anyone who has done the mod. I would save the money and get one of the 60 something dollar racks from ******** and just grind the teeth myself, it just takes an hour or two with a dremel.
you may or may not need bigger tires on the back, but if you are still running stock ones why not just get some with a little grip while your fixing it up.

Beef up the front end and just hope there is not a wreck as bad as the last one!

[x-bird]

you might have picked up the 11 idea from mine, which is how many i added to center the rack and get the turning radius i was after. I'd give serious thought to upgrading the harness to an automotive racing 4 or 5 point. You can get them often on racingjunk.com. I just paid $30 for a 2010 RCI 5 point set. NHRA mandates new ones every 2 years, so they pop up often for cheap. Those and a neck pad for around her helmet...