Gasket Maker CVT Cover... Anti-Sieze on Bolts...

[Numbers]

Took my CVT cover off a brand new engine to remove the kick starter mechanism.

CVT cover gasket disintegrated. Removed kick starter mechanism. Installed press fit muffler mounting bolt. Looked down at these brand new cover bolts and most of them had a small amount of white crust on them. Wire wheeled the bolts. Squeezed some Ultra Black Gasket Maker around the rim and bolt holes of the cover. Put the cover in place gently and dipped my cover bolts in a wee amount of anti seize before installing them in a top bottom side fashion. Finger tight. Looks like good coverage on gasket and no blowouts or gaps.

Started to mount the exhaust and realized the performance exhaust kit did not include the crush gasket. Realized that the kit didn't have the M6 and my old exhaust had a slightly larger size. Didn't find any flange nuts but picked up a couple of stainless nuts and washers and lock washers. Waiting for parts.

Meanwhile I was wondering if people here put a wee bit of grease or anti seize on their spark plug threads and if so what type do you use ?

[BuggyMaster]

Some people will just out of practice. I can tell you I never have and never had a problem.

[Numbers]

Some people will just out of practice. I can tell you I never have and never had a problem.

Thanks. Never did before with cars either but then again I never had so much dissimilar metals before or any corrosion on new parts/engine.

To compare, my old GY6 engine had two or three cover bolts that disintegrated, broke, or were missing when I got it. Appears that the one that broke off had broken in about the same position that I noted the white crusty stuff on the new bolts.

I'm really not trying to over analyze the issue, just want to be safe and get it right the first time.

[liduno]

I've never put antiseize on a plug. And be careful using stainless nuts and bolts, they tend to destroy threads.

[Numbers]

I've never put antiseize on a plug. And be careful using stainless nuts and bolts, they tend to destroy threads.

Thanks I'll be careful. The stainless nuts went on about the same as the regular style nut. Any time I have an issue with threads I go to my tap and die kit. My 1956 John Deere that I'm half way done with had alot of issues that required tedious hours bent and stooped over slowly turning and reversing over and over again. However, ALL bolts and nuts will pop off with the proper torque applied. I stopped working on it after my father passed. He had helped me with the tedious stuff and repair experience with old stuff. Waiting for summer to restore its gas tank but this winter is reserved for the buggy.

[liduno]

I don't know if the stainless thing is only when using both nuts and bolts at the same time. Maybe using a stainless nut on a regular bolt wont cause the same damaged.

I now when ever I use both stainless nuts and bolts together they always end up with marred threads when I take the nut off.

[Numbers]

I don't know if the stainless thing is only when using both nuts and bolts at the same time. Maybe using a stainless nut on a regular bolt wont cause the same damaged.

I now when ever I use both stainless nuts and bolts together they always end up with marred threads when I take the nut off.

The stainless ones tend to have a tighter tolerance I think. Too many issues with rounded edges and stripped bolts will drive a person crazy. I try and avoid future headaches and sometimes it actually works.... :)

[Numbers]

FWIW on spark plugs and the use of anti seize. Researched a bit more and came across a source that confirms both of you guys opinion. NGK recommends NO anti seize for two reasons. 1. The NGK spark plug comes from the factory with a special coating on the threads that prevents corrosion and eases removal. 2. Anti seize will alter torque specs.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf

Note to self... NO ANTI SEIZE ON MY NGK SPARK PLUG...

...and also... Thanks again guys.