Yerf Dog 3203 BMI Axle Kit Question

[Rossperk1977]

I am rebuilding a 3203 for my kids. The rear wheels were so rusted that my CAT techs could not get them loose. I bought the attached axle kit. This is my first cart build. I am having trouble figuring out the locking collars. It came with 4 steel locking collars, I am not sure of the locations, there where no assembly instructions. Do you put them on the insides of the brackets? Outsides between brake drum? stops for wheels? Any info would great.
https://www.*************/1-Live-Go-Kart-Axle-Kit-_p_7484.html

[metalstudman1]

Are the bearing carriers still on the kart? does the new bearing caps match the bolt pattern? place bearing caps on the inside if they'll fit, but will work on the out side too(caps together -not on either side of the carrier bracket) -use collars on the inside of the bearing for locking the axle in place, no movement from side to side.The brake drum/sprocket appears to have a set screws w/key. You can assemble all the parts prior to putting on the kart (don't tighten set screws-snug only till you know you're aligned. The bearing holders have a slot at the bottom that allows you to drop the whole axle assembly.Common sense plays a role- as space allows & maintenance needs in the future should dictate your decisions & placements of parts. Spacers or pipe sleeves can be used to simplify the need for constant tightening of set screws and gouging of the axle (not included in the kit). Hope this helps

[Rossperk1977]

Yes sir...... i have sleeves on inside and out currently. Just wondering if the one on the outside is needed to keep the wheel from sliding in.

I have pics just can’t figure out how to post

[metalstudman1]

There's no need for them to be on both sides- when placed on the inside at both bearings the axle is locked in position. Did you buy new wheel hubs? they have set screws & keyway to lock in place. The axle you have doesn't have a nut (I don't see threads on the ends), if there is a C-clip that is to ensure the hub doesn't come off if a set screw loosens up. You can use a collar to sandwich the clip & hub if "you" think it's needed. The fewer things scoring up the axle the better, after wear & tear set screws make the axle hard to be removed.
I don't know what your pic's are stored on- I'm assuming your phone. If you can save your photo's to Google drive or some similar photo storage- then it's easy to go there and select the file."Go Advanced" beside "post quick reply", then below "submit reply" & "preview Post" is "manage attachments" choose the file in the formats allowed, they will end up on the bottom of the post. If you reply from a computer you'll need to upload from the camera source to the computer.
Hope this helps- I'm one of the few people that doesn't own a Smart phone anymore!!Video's need to be uploaded to "You Tube", save the link to be added to your text.

[Rossperk1977]

I have not bought new wheel hubs yet. Trying to decide to go 4x4 or not. The axle is threaded on the end.

[metalstudman1]

Sorry I couldn't see any threads- is there a shoulder of any type? if not then the locking collar or a tubular sleeve can be used. I use 4 X 4 pattern because they're plentiful to replace and about every wheel imaginable is available in that bolt pattern, wheel spacers if you ever need them are cheaper!. I prefer the aluminum wheel hubs over the steel ones-they don't warp as easily.

[Rossperk1977]

No shoulder. Looking to get 4x4 hubs in order to use Golf cart wheels on the back.