this build is looking sick!

I hope everyone had a good 4th of july holiday! I had a couple of days off but it's been so darn HOT here it's hard to get motivated. I did spend some time on the build.
Finaly got the brake system for the front compete. After a good deal of time debating with myself over the pedals, I went with the stock yerf pedal. Drilled them out to lighten a touch, welded in a sleave for a strong pivot and added a zerk fitting. Fabbed a pivot bracket for the pedal and a front mount for the morse cable mount. I fashioned a cover for the front assembly for protection to keep my foot and trash/mud from hanging up in the pivot points. I'm almost embaressed by the amount of time I spent on this but it should make a strong dependable system that will last a long time

That looks like a factory job!!! Don't be embarassed about spending long hours on the small IMPORTANT stuff that others just don't think about for longevity and safe comfortable use. You're total apporoach to this build is a confirmation of your need for QUALITY-Great job.

Nice work man

Lookin good !

this build is sick

Got the go part of the pedal system working. Still have to fashion a cover for the mechanism. Took a bit of trial and error to get the throw right. There are four pivot points that had to be correctly positioned in order to get it right. I needed 1,1/4" of cable pull in order for the carb to fully open. I wanted 3/4" of pedal travel in order to put the pedal at a comfortable position at static. Without the pivot points , the pedal gets too close to the tie rod during full throttle. 3/4" throw from nothing to wide open is gonna make for a touchy/ sensitive throttle so it should be interesting :laugh:
So this parts in the done list. Moving on to stuff like oil cooler placement and such

Sometimes the small details can be challenging.

More nice details! all this effort on the frontend leads to more time on the track/trails without failures and definitely speeds up the adjustments if needed. Beautiful work.

any updates ckau

I'm working on the rear swing arm, fabbing the outer axle bearing supports. A little more tweeking and welding and they will be in. Still got to brace the motor mounts and rear adjuster.
I need to figure some sort of mount/brace to stop the motor from torqueing over. I get some chain skip when the motor goes into a hard sudden pull. It appears the motor wants to twist, giving enough slack in the chain to skip a tooth or two. So some sort of lateral brace that can be removed when ever I pull the motor is needed. I'm thinking towards some sort of turnbuckle thingy that can be adjusted. Some input. ideas and thoughts from the forum would be great!
And while I'm into it, i'm following X-bird's lead and converting those crappy swing arm pivot bushing to heims. The heims are already ordered. Hopefully I'll get my paws on them before the weekend.
I only get a few hours a week to spend on this project so the progress is slow. I'll post some pics when I got something to show.

How are the engine bushings? If one or both are bad it will let the motor twist. They also make a solid poly bushing for the motor.

TOM

the bushing are in good shape I replace them periodically and keep a set in my stock. I would be very interested in those solid poly bushing if you got a source
The problem is... I switched to two two separate bolts to support the motor on the front hangers rather than the long through bolt. Doing this enables the use of a 30mm carb without having to go to a high rise intake to clear the bar. so i get a touch of rocking on the front. bracing the two front hanger helps but doesn't totally cure the problem I can blip the gas and observe the chain go slack on top as the motor does a slight twist. the rear hanger/chain adjuster is the culprit. It does nothing but hold up the rear with no lateral support. I'm not a big fan of those high rise intakes with the long runner. I prefer to keep the carb in the stock location and figure out a better motor support system.

I have the bushings which I use on my buggy as well as 2 individual bolts but I have found the riser to actually help top end performance. But I don't have the problem that you have. It may be due to a different design in the rear hanger. I do know the yerfs were bad in breaking back there. The Blades, HH's and Carters all used that stiffener clamp on the rear of the case, maybe that is the difference.

hmmm, ckau, maybe video it and check it in slow mo if you can. crazy as it sounds. i'm wondering if it's the tall "hoop" bar on the right flexing inwards? That's the one that kept hitting on my frame, but i always have had the same chain slack issues you're describing. I know mine moved to the left from the hits, but i also wonder if that bar flexes over under torque? i've got the tensioner bolt gorilla-strength double nutted on both sides of the "plate" and still have that happen.

I'm sure u will figure it out I wish I had the time to do this to my yerf that's why I plan on keeping it and later down the road turn it into a single seater buggy, with 2 people in it I feel like its to slow and 90 percent of the time I drive it myself anyway. It will also help with moving the driver weight into the center for handling rather then one side.

Got the rear swing arm about 90% finished. Outer bearing brackets, center bearing support, motor mounts braced, shocks positioned, Axle assembled, calipers mounted, and stuck a 3.5gal. stainless steel fuel tank in. Once the brake lines show up this thing will be about ready to hang a motor!

Really nice work. :biggthumpup:

awesome

Ditto, really nice. Are you goin to try and make the Bash this year?

Nice work. I look forward to seeing it progress.

I see where the dates have been set for the upcoming year. I'm giving notice as soon as I return to work. I belive with 8 months notice we can work it out :biglaugh:

Hope you'll be able to make it as well as many others from this forum. Just remember many will book their campsites the end of December to assure getting an electric site.

It's a rollor! I couldn't stand it any longer. I had to put it together and see what it looks like. A few odds and ends like some panel tabs, a dash, the wiring and a motor and it's up and out! I'll run the crap out of it to make sure everything holds up then it gets completly disassembled for paint.

Sweet!!! What a way to give you even more incentive to complete. It's just a shame it takes so long to do the job right. Trimming even more weight onn such a light buggy should make it a screemer.:cheers::banana:

I was very weight conscience during the whole build. This is the first time it's been off the fab table and I was able to check the weight. I'm actualy a little concerned, the front weighs nothing! I can lift it off the ground with one hand. I'm almost thinking it's too light. I can only imagine what's gonna happens in some woops or a steep hill. It's easier to add weight rather than shed it so I'll have to add balist if needed. I plan to add a skid plate under the front so if I got to, I'll use some 1/4 steel plate for balance:laugh2:

You can also add weight by skinning the front, it will keep the water off the feet.

Looks great--i'll bet you're finding the hardest thing now is keeping your patience or lack thereof from getting the better of you when you're so close. ))

understand the weight concern; i was youtubing a week or so ago and came across of a clip of a spiderbox with a pretty big heavy guy in it rolling over backwards at the top of a steep incline---i couldn't read spanish, but i think the outcome was really bad as the guy wasn't belted in and he came out the top before the cage went over him. mine's so heavy that i can't pick it up without blowing my lower back out. Are the rear shocks the same brand as the front, or are they a set of "keepers"? they look pretty sweet.

she looks gorgeous!!!

Ckau, I see you put the same style shocks on the back as on the front, is the spring heavier or is it pretty much the same shock just in black? The ones on the front of mine have been going strong through countless of hard rides, hundreds of miles, so far so good.

The shocks on the rear are the same make/brand as the ones on the front only longer and larger in diameter. I'm a little concern if these will even work or not. I haven't touched the shocks other than to unpack them and bolt them on. Just by bouncing on the frame the fronts are too soft with not enough travel . The rears appear to be too stiff. I really won't know until the buggy is drivable. I had always intended using these shocks for mock up and to give an idea of what was needed when it got time to get some real shocks. I'll fiddle with the preloads and gas settings to hopefully get them close.

I like them on the front of mine, after servicing them, but your right about then not having enough travel, but they feel pretty good on the front of my buggy and I'm sure it's heavier than yours.

Any updates on this bad boy

What with the holidays and family piled up in here, I haven't been able to give it much more than a glimpse lately. I'm focusing on the wiring harness. Waiting for a bunch of stuff on order to show up, wire loom, fuse panel, switches, trail tech, etc. Hope to get back on it this weekend.

I started wiring this thing. Searched high and low for a while trying to find a water tight box with the right diminsions to hold the electrics. Turns out I found an old first aid kit I've been kicking around for years. The box is perfect! It's mounted on the frame behind my left shoulder so there's easy access. Getting that rats nest of wiring off the swing arm cleans things up. The CDI, starter relay, resister along with a ATO 6-gang fuse panel and a 8 gang ground block are inside.The rectifier is mounted external on the back for cooling. All the circuts are independent from one another, ignition charging, lighting etc, so a failure with one won't effect the others This should make any sort of future trouble shooting easy.

Omg!!!
 

Your killing me here this thing is just one plain awesome custom single seater!!! I wish I had the time and money to duplicate it! Have you choosen a color for it yet? god I hope it's something that really makes it pop!!!:party:

brilliant idea

So, when you get done, you have to strip it all back down to paint?

Looks great. Need to get it done for the Missouri Buggy Bash the end of June.

:biggthumpup:
Just wanted to say this^
I like the centered rack idea, I am doing this to my spiderbox with an after market rack.

Swappin'!
 

Masterman are you gonna remove the existing seat, and replace with a single in the center of the buggy?

No, at least not right now. I had entertained that idea, as I'm a pretty big dude, but I want to retain the ability to scare the sh!t out of others for now. My plan is to drop the rack to the floor of the buggy and center it, the stock steering shaft looks to have enough travel to compensate for the change.

The main reason I am doing this is the same as MSM, I have huge feet and kick the rack/steering shaft when on the accelerator pedal.

Yea it has to be stripped to the bare bones. I have the option of getting it powder coated at work. We have powder coat facility's but the color choices aren't so great.,white, black, red, and Chevy orange. None of which turn me on. There are other colors out there but we wouldn't be able to sneak the frame through the production line. we also have a epoxy spray booth in which there are a gazillion colors to choose from so I'm going that route. I got a bright brilliant yellow in mind. Something that will stand out from the rest. Our painter told me he could mix powdered glass in the paint. It's the stuff used to make street signs reflect . That oughta make the paint pop out!:laughing: I can only imagine what that would look like on a night ride! probably blind anyone behind me!
The buggy is together enough to visualize what it's going to be. and it's driving me crazy. It's one hell of an exercise in patience to avoid rushing through taking shortcuts and compromises.

The patients and waiting will be well worth it since it will be done right the first time.

just a suggestion
 

check out the powdered glass in a candy green!, I've got a classic '75 Z1F with a powder coated frame I did this to and OMG!!! but hey just a sugg.!!! lol:biglaugh:

Also adding a pearl powder to the paint looks awsome. We done my sons buggy in the origional blade blue with a violet peal. The buggy looks blue except when light hits it at certain angles it shows the blue violet. A friend of mine had a street rod he sold that was bright Mopar yellow with a violet pearl and it looked great.

I had a cruiser done in black with lavender pearl flake, and it was beautiful in the sun light, all kinds of purples and blues. Too bad you can't keep black clean.

You can keep black clean. You just devote half your life to washing it. When an ant passes gas and stirs up dust you wash it.

The color choices and different techniques are mind boggling. I have seen some pearl-essences and metal flakes that give me goose bumps but at the same time I got to be practical. This buggy will get abuse comparable to a piece of earth moving machinery. Rocks dirt, mud, and exposure to all the elements so these exotics won't hold up very long. Durability is a prime factor in the paint choice. Trying to protect a high dollar paint job just isn't gonna happen. I got to go with a commercial industrial paint.

I would lean towards powder coating for durability, but I know some of the colors aren't too glamorous once its baked. Gloss black seems to have a satin finish when its done, that one I know. I will be lucky if I get past the primer stage when mine is finished, I just don't seem to have the patience for paint and body work.

What I was suggesting was instead of using powdered glass, instead use the pearl powder. The last I purchased cost about 12.00 for a half full half pint can. I only used about half of that since I mixed it in with the paint instead of mixing it in the clear which would of used half of what I used. It will give you more of an irredescent look rather then a pearl. And since your using the epoxy which is way more durrable then the dupont I had used you'll have the best of both worlds. My son's has held up very well off road for top of the line automotive paint. The only reason I used it in the paint instead of the clear is cost, to put it in the clear would have cost me twice as much.

Ckau I would highly recommend por-15 just at least look into it

Osha?
 

Hey "CK" I'm an industrial blaster/painter, how about going with an OSHA eurathane? very durable and shiny, and I know they make a gloss yellow for pipe coding in plant facilities!? Plus you can order it right thru your sherwin-williams store!:dunno:

updates?

The weather sure was crappy around here this weekend but it did afford me some time to stay inside and get some stuff done.
Finally got the fittings I wanted to complete the junction so the brake lines to the rear calipers are hooked up
Made a rear brake light out of some aluminum square stock and some LEDs.
Installed a battery shut off. The switch kills the whole system at the battery to prevent drain . The lever is a removable key type so it can also serve as a theft deterrent or prevent unintentional starting. probably won't prevent theft but it will make them earn it.
Found a nifty aluminum case and mount to hold the trail tech. Fits perfect on the top of the steering bracket.
Got most all of the wiring done except for the CDI connections. I have twice the room of the stock box and it's crammed full! I still got to fab and wire a dash. Still thinking on that one. I know what I want but can't decide the best way to achieve it.
Made a shroud for the oil cooler. The cooler sets partialy blocked by my right shoulder so a shroud and a old computer fan should help. This fam moves enough air that you can feel it on the back side of the cooler so it should help' especialy at slow speeds when theres not much air moving.

really nice work, need to have you head over here to do my wiring and brakes ... seems like those two areas i never finish off nicely--just don't have the patience --- or I have too many zip ties ))) ...

Impressive, very professional. Great work.

As usual. :)

I've been pondering for a while on what to do about a dash. It had to be something of the right dimensions, weather tight. light weight and easily accessible. I was at a standstill trying to figure how to fabricate something!
So anyhow, I was rooting in the frig looking for something to cure a case of the munchies when... Hey! these look about right! A couple of Tupperware containers. I share the contents with the dog, scoop them up and head out.... Their perfect! Meet all my requirements and fit just right.
Fabbed up some brackets and some aluminum front panels and we are back in business. The better half inquired about her containers so I did the honorable thing and blamed it on the dog!

I Like !!! By looking at it I would never think it was tupperware that you used. By the way that was a very noble gesture of you to blame the dog. It's hard to hold a grudge on a dog, unlike us.:laughing:

Its looking really great ckau, keep it up! I'm still wanting to go with the old quad runner with independent rear end,just gotta find time to snake into that bottom end. Ur cage looks vicious dude! Gotta see more on how this turns out, great work!

I say he will have the nicest looking single seat buggy. Hope to see it one day.

Lmao poor dog I hope u give him extra treats for taking that blame

I gotta say, I like seeing someone else pour their hearts into a spiderbox like I'm doing, looking good, can't wait to see the finished product.

I agree, I might b converting mine into a single seater also, I ride 95 percent of the time by myself anyway

Firstly, Wanting to wish all the mothers out there.. Happy Baby's Mamma Day! Hope you guys didn't drop the ball and forget!
I got the dash almost complete. Waiting on the A/f ratio and oil pressure gauges to get here but all the wiring and switches are in. The two uppers on the left with green indicators control the cooling fans for the oil cooler and CVT. The blue indicator switch is lights. On the right, red is ignition on/kill and yellow is a momentary for starter. The A/f gauge goes in the blank area on left and oil pressure will be in the right side.
Got a bone stock motor in with the exception of using one of my exhaust pipes. I'll use this motor while I'm get all the bugs out. I'm past the point of being anxious to fire this thing up!

Nice!

Looks great. Where are you pulling your oil pressure from?

One of 3 places,
Directly out from the oil pump with a T in the line running to the cooler. This will show pump pressure.
On the return port of the oil cooler. this will show any pressure loss through the cooler .
in a tapped port in the cylinder oil galley leading to the head. Shows any pressure loss to the head.
I'm using a electric sending unit gauge so I can move the sender around. I'm curious to know what kind of pressures I'll get. I've bench run a motor with a gauge in the cylinder port and got as much as 35lbs but I never have been able to observe pressures while out in the real world. It will tell me If, how and where a cooler may be restrictive.

I know the older GY6 engines had a oil galley plug on top of the cylinder where the new ones don't. The performance cylinders don't have them as well. I was thinking of drilling and taping my cylinder to install a gauge. I once put a manual gauge on my origional Yerf engine and the pressure was 35 @ idle and would go as high as 55 psi at higher rpm. I was totally surprised at the pressure that tiny pump produces.

55psi is a pleasant surprise! I ran one on the table top but it wasn't secured well and wasn't shrouded so I didn't buzz it up much over idle. The first time I saw a gy6 oil pump, my initial thought was this thing looks and works just like a chevy small block pump. There's a way to modify the center cog in a chevy that gives more volume. The man I got it from did the modification with a drimal so it's not that involved. I've still got one of those modified pumps stashed some where. I may dig it out to see whats been done. it may prove beneficial.

Ckau u inspire me to do this to mine

Ckau what kind of welder do u use?

it's a Clark, don't remember the model. small portable 110v mig welder.

ckau can you please tell me the specs on your brake line and fittings id really appreciate it. On the other hand your build is amazing great work! You were my inspiration to chop up a yerf but i have put in irs and a kfx400 engine.

The hard line is standard 3/16 brake line. All the fittings,T's and braided lines etc. were supplied by Parker Hannifin. Everything is standard AN-4.

how did you connect the lines to your caliper? Im a noob on this topic but arent the mastercylinders/calipers metric threads?

Yes, they are metric. I re-tapped them for SAE threads. I won't be back at the shop till the weekend. I'll post some pics and a how-to when I get back.

n1kogr, Here’s the brake component list’. All the fittings are AN-4.
A- 90* bulkhead fitting . These are used with a bracket to secure the line at transition points when going to flex hose. Not shown is a bulkhead T and straight I didn’t have extras. The T and a straight were used in connecting the frame to the swing arm and 90’s at the rear calipers.
B- swivel 90*
C- swivel T
D- straight O-ring connector. These are used at the master and rear calipers The stock connection are metric 8-1.25. They have to be re tapped 7/16-20 to accept these fittings.
E- compression end fitting . To connect hard line to fittings. The hard line has to be flared
The flex hose on the rear swing arm is AN-4 SS braided, 12" long, straight /90.
The front hose and calipers are stock Crossfire. I used a 8-1.25 metric T so the banjo's would mate and re tapped the center to accept a o-ring straight for the hard line.

First class work.

I know I probly missed the post entirely, but how did you go about boxing in the outer axle bearing mounts? I am almost to this point and looking for ideas.

ckau thank you so much this was so much help and is giving me great ideas

ckau how much width did u take out of the frame? and was it just the right amount or would u like to have left more ?

Master. it's quite easy. First you got to score a couple of bearing hangers off a rear swing arm that will match your originals then 3 pieces of steel plate make the box, two sides and a top. heights are determined by the length of the hanger , width is determined by axle length and hub. The box is measured so it supports out to the rear hubs. sides are notched under side rail. top plate overlaps rail. Weld the box up square with the hanger then notch and fit to rail. Install bearings on all hangers and use axle to get the box positioned and aligned with the original hangers

J-man, I think I took approx.. 9" out of the width. this left 16" between the front rail for foot/pedal room and just enough at the rear to still use the stock swing arm and shock upright mount. The width,to me is just right. I'm very comfortable in the seat. not crowded in the cage good elbow room and easy to get in/out of.

Thanks CKAU, I see it better now that you drew it out and got a close up pic of the box, I am assuming you drilled the holes for weight and access to the brake bolts??

I got 2 axle mount kits form BMI in the mail today, and those hangers look kinda small compared to the stock ones, but thats ok. I now have enough hangers to complete the added bearings, just need to score another bearing at some point, and get the axle coming. I like the way you boxed in the stock hangers with the same plate as the outer box, I was going to gusset it anyways.

Masteryota, I did my boxes with the ones from BMI, because the way they are made I had to do things a little bit differently than what ckau did. Mine works pretty good, but it doesn't look as clean as Ckau's. I had an old spiderbox swingarm in the shed that I wasn't using so I did the mod on it and it turned out pretty good. The only downside is I cant remove the bolts that hold the brake caliper on. I can remove the caliper but the screws are boxed in. I used 1 x 1.25 square tubing if I'm not mistaken, it's the same as the tubing that is on the swingarm now.

Your right I drilled the boxes to shed a little weight and for access to the caliper bolts.
I kept with stock hangers for two reasons..
Keeping the same dimensions makes the fab work easier. The aftermarkets are a different size, smaller plate dimensions. The boxes would have some weird angles in order to keep the bearing mounts centered.
The stock hanger configuration/shape. allow the axle to drop out at a forwards angle. the aftermarkets,(BMI) the axle drops out the bottom. If I were to mix them up I would be forced to completely disassemble the axle, then slide it out from one end or the other to remove. Keeping the hanger shapes the same allow me to unbolt the bearing flangettes and drop the axle off the swing arm as a whole unit. Makes it fairly quick and painless if I need to replace a bearing, rotor or switch out a sprocket.

Hey Ckau, what hubs are you using for your sprocket and brake rotor? I have to replace the one I'm using for my sprocket and I don't know if I want to go with the same aluminum billet one, or something a little more heavy duty.

I see what you are saying about the removal angles, but I hope I won't be having to change anything on the axle very often.

@t3beatz, I like the way you boxed in the outers with the rectangular tubing, it almost looks factory that way.

My kart racing buddy thinks I'm insane for running 5 bearings on the axle, and for a second, I thought I was too, but like you guys, I don't want to have to buy another axle. Ever.

I am, however, a little perplexed on how the bearings and flanges all tie together, but I'm sure I will find out soon enough.

Also, I am at the point of mocking up some type of bushing for the swingarm, and I see you running heims. Do you think those will take the lateral forces generated while turning and articulating? I found a bin of different type bushings at my local ACE hardware, and was going to make something up.

I always get a little tickled when a kart guy puts his two cents in. A pavement cart is a whole different world. Ask him to put some knobbies on his kart and try to keep up.
I got an opinion once that heims in the swing arm would shear. That was a concern with me as well. So, as it is.. I am fortunate enough to work for a international company that designs fabricates and manufactures boom/lift trucks. These are the hydraulic bucket trucks all the utility and tree companies use. we have a top notch engineering staff and tons of vender support.
I showed the engineering team my rear swing arm. As a favor and for their own curiosity they ran a stress analyses using simulating programing wrote to perform stress tests on truck components. In a nutshell, lateral type of forces are transfered to a push pull effect. IE: a side force on the rear right pulls out on the right side heim and pushes in on the left side heim and vice- versa. A push/pull motion rather than a twist or bend. As long as the heims are fixed in place there not enough lateral force to cause shear. Not that it can't happen but the force required to shear one of those heims would cause any sort of fixture failure... like sliding sideways into a tree at 50mph! No matter how that swing arm is attached, it's going to get torn off. Most likely frame mounts or swing arm failure before the heims go. These engineers are responsible for multi-millions in equipment and liability. I listen to what they say

No doubts here. All I know is what I see and what I see is someone who has taken great care in planning, neatness and precission. This is evident by the pics posted along with descriptions. Anyone who pay's that much attention to planning and details, I'll say with 99% confidence, they know what their doing. I sure hope to see that buggy in action in real time some day. Greay work.

Welp, that seals the deal then, I will be going with heims for the swingarm. Thanks for the input CKAU, although I might not box my bearings in like yours, I appreciate your design.

BTW, what size heims are you using for the rear?

Please keep in mind, this is one of those things that though it may work on paper it may not work in reality. The swing arm heim mod has never been tested!
A lot of the stuff I've shown during this project have worked well for me for many years. The boxed bearings and axle conversion have held up perfectly for over five years.
This Mod still has to serve the test of time.
The heims are 5/8 X 5/8-18 with a load rate of 13,400 lbs. That's all I know!
Our company uses Midwest components Inc. for so much stuff, Midwest assigned a service/tech rep. just to handle our business. He travel around the country visiting the various facilities. I see him every couple of weeks or so. I explained to him what I was looking for, next trip through he tosses heims on my workbench," These ought to work for ya"
I can get specs. part# etc if you need them.

Actually, it has a little bit ...:cheers: aurora heims, specs buried somewhere in my thread. they were in for the couple miles of rock hell i put it through at Line mtn. along with somewhere around 20-30 hours worth of riding. sure it's not long term, but they held up for that with a total swingarm weight of 250 pounds. in some way's i'm sorry i didn't run that back end for another season. I also didn't go into the swingarm heims blindly, consulted with a customer/friend who's a race engineer, specifically in the area of suspension design who pretty much said what ckau's testing has shown.

Another variation of ckau's axle hangar mod using 3-in. angle iron--keeps one brake bolt out in the open ...

Ok, good. I was looking at 3/4" chromoly heims with tensile strength of 28,000lbs, but now also looking at stainless sleeves for the rear also. I know I want to chop the hangers off either way, as they are way too wide for the original mounts( mine were sliding in the swingarm) and weld better ones in, and if I go with the heims, I guess I need to consider doing some bulking up of the swingarm as well.

@x-bird, I like the way you did those mounts, I hadn't thought about angle iron that big.

fwiw, the angle iron forms the top, then there's a piece of 1/4 plate stock welded in to make the back vertical part of the box.

Bullet proofing that axle!
The rear axle is in and ready. I’ve used this setup before and it has shown to be very strong and dependable. A 42 long x1” Azusa axle with ¾ step downs on the ends, using BMI # 400249 sprocket hubs, BMI # 400110 locking collars, modified yerf wheel hubs, stock sprocket and brake rotors. I took pics of the assembly process but for some reason the pics came out too dark to see any detail so all I got is the finished product.
I’m not real crazy about those sprocket hubs. I chose these because they were small, compact, light and had the correct bolt pattern for the yerf sprocket and rotors. When starting the assembly I discovered these hubs were bored slightly under size and need to be bored out to fit the Azusa axle. The flange was not welded square on to the center so that resulted in some run out and wobble of the sprocket and rotors. It required some filing on the mounting face and juggling with the bolt tightening sequence to get the wobble and run out down to an acceptable level. When I strip it down to paint I’ll chock these up in a lathe to true up the mounting surfaces.

The white you see is SCD40 PVC 1” pipe cut to fit between all the hubs and bearings. This pipe serves for several reasons. It is a spacer to help kit the hubs positioned where they won’t slip up and down the axle. The pipe protects the surface od the axle from nicks and dings that make it real tough to ever remove the axle and the pipes holds the bearing square with the axle . The way these bearing are shaped to fit the flangettes, the bearings can get cocked out of square while tightening the flangettes thus causing a bind on the axle. This bind creates rolling resistance and robs horsepower. The square cut ends on the PVC hold the bearing straight and aligned. Once every thing is slid on the axle, tightening on the axle end nuts squeezes everything tight together so the whole unit can be dropped into the hangers and bolted in place. The axle spins true and free.
I also made up a bracket to hold the speed sensor for the TrailTech. I use one of the brake rotors, to mount the magnetic bolt and placed the bracket to align the pickup. Last time I installed a Trailtech I used the formula in the instructions to calibrate the speed and it worked pretty well.

You're killin' me C, git er done! Awesome meticulous attention to detail as usual. Wish i had your patience ...and ability to cut pVC straight. ))))

Hey CKAU, just for reference, how many locking collars did you use?

total of six, one on each side of the rotor and sprocket hubs.