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-   150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech (http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=29)
-   -   oil lube language (http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3448)

bear 09-23-2012 09:39 AM

oil lube language
 
I've got a question for you all. I was servicing my Dazon 150r, and it recommended 10w30SF motor oil, so what does the "SF" stand for?:dunno:

x-bird 09-23-2012 01:58 PM

Sf, AF etc. are all different types of service grades of the oil. they're indicators of vehicle type/usage.

bear 09-23-2012 05:03 PM

Ok so what does SF mean?

ckau 09-24-2012 04:16 AM

S- indicate Spark/ignition motors.
F- is a designation for some earlier type motors with smog systems. The F indicates some additives have been removed from the oil that can harm the smog system.

rich1 09-24-2012 07:09 PM

The S is for Gasoline(spark) engines and C is for Diesel(compression) engines.:argue:
The SE, SF, SG, SH ect.. refers to the performace classes of an oil. The higher the letter the better performace of the oil .
The current new highest rating is SM.
Any oil rated lower than SJ is now considered to be obosolete by API standards.

bear 09-24-2012 07:12 PM

upgrade?
 
Ok, so does that mean i should upgrade to a better grade of oil?

x-bird 09-25-2012 05:57 AM

depends on what you term a "better" grade of oil. honestly for these engines i wouldn't worry too much. Most of the changes going on are based on the EPA's doings. The amount of zinc in the oils has been cut dramatically as any that got into the "mix" fouled up catalytic convertors and coated o2 sensors. Owners of older muscle cars etc like myself that have solid lifter cams with high spring pressures, steep lobes etc have to add additives to get the zinc back in or pay through the nose for royal purple, amsoil etc. The zinc sort of forms a protective metal layer in the high pressure metal-to-metal contact areas. The added detergents in the newer oils really aren't all that helpful for older engines. In the last 5 or so years when the oil companies started changing things around the number of competent professional shops and engine builders that wiped out brand new cams on break-in increased dramatically because of the new blends. For these instances, some of the older obsolete (and cheaper) blends/ratings were better.

bear 09-26-2012 07:24 AM

thanx 4 the info! keepem rollin

rich1 09-26-2012 10:50 AM

The best oil to use in a buggy is a 10 w 30- 40 weight Motorcycle only oil. It offers better over temp protection for air cooled motors than regular oil does. Honda advises using it in all their scooters and mopeds. If you dont want to pay dealer prices go to your local auto supply store ,Castrol Motorcycle oil is excellent.:doh:

SYCARMS 09-27-2012 11:27 AM

rich1 is absolutely correct. Water cooled engines which most oil is designed for run temps in the 200 deg range max. Air cooled engines run an average eng temp of 250-350 deg. Regular automotive oil will have thermal breakdown at these temps for any prolonged time. The 4 cycle ATV/motorcycle or V-twinn oil has a much higher thermal breakdown. For the best protection the Castrol full synthetic atv/cycle oil can't be beat.


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