What is this thing, and the carb WTH?!
 

So I picked this cart up for $150 and its a little rough, which is fine. All I intend to do with it is let my boy drive it around and possibly cruise around my property and drink beer in it. So heres my questions:
- What is it? After some research it appears to be a Yerfdog Spiderbox. There is a yerfdog logo on the gas tank, and it has a spiderbox frame sticker on it as well.
- I assume it has the 150cc motor on it, I havent crawled around under it yet to verify stamping on the motor. The motor says Howhit on it.
- When I plug the fuel line into the carb fuel flows out of what appears to be a vacuum line, I posted a pic below. When I pulled the carb to clean it the float bowl was riveted on, so I assume its the EPA model. I ordered a cheapy carb from Amazon for $27 and it will arrive today.
-When I jump the solenoid it does crank over, but I havent verified spark, as I have been working 80 hours a week, but I should be able to get to it soon.
Any input is appreciated.
Here she is
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...pswt69htkj.jpg

This is where fuel flows from once the fuel line is connected. There is no petcock, somebody jerry rigged a hose on there that has a pretty big diameter. So I am thinking float is stuck and just flooding the carb and causing the leak through. Also there was no hose on this port, but from what it looks like its just a breather? Any thoughts.
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...psss3gudxg.jpg
I bought the new carb anyways, so we shall see if it runs with a fresh one.

Here is what is making me believe its a Yerfdog
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...pselpchjxa.jpg

And theres this?
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...pszdelnk20.jpg

Not sure about other ppl, but I dont see no pics. If it is a yerfdog spider box, and is mainly stock setup, then it a gravity fed system. No vacum off the the carb. Should be just 1 input, and 2 overflow. Stock spider boxes dont have petcocks either. Would highly suggest to put one on. Stock gas tanks are bad about leaking. And it's a pain to work with if your pulling off the carb and working on it.
And would suggest to get a New starter, solenoid, and coil. From what I came across, these 3 things go out alot, depending on use. But have learned I alway have a spare one of those at all times. They cheap, so not going to break you. But a pain when your ready to ride, and one of those things desides to go out. EBAY or AMAZON.

Good to know, thanks! I used photobucket to post the pics, I can see them.

Welcome aboard. all pics visible. That's a spiderbox with no roll cage. 3209 ins the blue version's model # iirc. float's likely stuck, as that's an overflow port. put an oil change on your to do list.
You've come to the right place, lots of yerf knowledge here, the howhit's an excellent GY6 motor. Main drawback is no reverse, but there are kits to add it.

Best thing to do is start searching the spiderbox threads here. Specifically, before turning anyone loose in it, you want the front suspension threads so you can determine what series ball joints and spindles are on it and make sure they're not the old recalled ones. Don't think they affected the blue carts, but not 100% either.

Thanks for the info, I actually have the roll cage its just not bolted on. I have some damage to one of the control arms, its pretty tweaked, so I have been scoping BMI for a replacement. If the motor seems solid I will run it, but was thinking about throwing a Honda or Predator motor in it if need be, I have a welder and some ambition so...
Hopefully the new carb is here today and I can get it fired up.

So I was looking at the steering wheel and it looks like I can lower it, anybody have thoughts on that, looks like the steering linkage/u joint connection should be fine.

Well I got the new carb yesterday and after fooling around with the kill switch and choke I got it fired up. Went for a spin around 11pm last night (forced the old lady to go on the maiden voyage). It actually ran pretty well, but need some work:
- Battery
- Starter button
- Tires
- Air filter
-Oil Change
- Some work on front right suspension
- Probably will replace solenoid/coil
- Basic clean up on wiring and bolts
- Camo paint job
- 600cc inline four motor

Other than that I will ride it and post some videos later.
Total investment $177

Hit some bumps at speed before you decide to put a 600cc on it.

Real suspension and a stronger frame would suit a 600 better.

The entire front end like other people are posting needs to be beefed up for it to even be safe. Stock shocks are horrible. Tire upgrade all the way around and the bdx steering rack really helps. The spider box needs alot of work from stock for to be safe.

^^^^^^^^^

This is the reason I sold my Yerfie... After dropping 1400 on it (including purchase price...most was stupid shop fees because I messed it up... oops) I still didn't do the big necessary spindle/a-arm BDX swap or give it real tires/shocks, but I ended up selling it for a TINY bit less than what I invested so at least I came out pretty well :D

But yea. Get the BDX ball joints, a-arms, spindles and I suggest the HD rear-engine mount as it's inexpensive and I had the stock one break on my when I had mine. Check out my thread if you want to see what I did with mine.

Hard to beat for $177 regardless of what you do with it!!

As stated earlier. After I put high grade Ball joints, "A" Arms, Spindles, And better shocks up front, and bigger tires, was a night and day difference in handling. Some of these items are some of the most costly items to replace on the yerf. But Not crazy. be around $300.00 - $400.00 rough guess. Rear shocks a must. So around $500?? However, once this is done, I would say you have 3/4 of issues taken care of on the yerfdog.
Other safty issue might be the axle. The stock axle is not well built. There is beeffed up ones can get. From BD. They bolt on, however the hub is different size than the stock. So before spending $$$ on new rims and tires, might decide if this is something you want to do first. Something I need to do yet. But as stated, I will need new rims to make it work. So will be down the road. Axle around $150.0 I think.
Then if you go to engine. Exhaust is something to be done, if you want the full power out of the engine. That is one of the bigger $$ items you will buy for it. 200-300.
Upgrade the CVT trani. low cost and big performance difference. If all your clutches are in good shape. Can just lower your Roller wieghts, and will gain better take off.
$25.00 will get you a good set of sliders. 10-13 grams. depending on your driving demands. Lower the wieght, the longer you stay in lower gear, before hitting top speed.
10 grams is lowest you should go, if you still want full top speed.

Not sure what air intake and filter you have, but a aftermarket will be an improvement. You have a new carb. Not sure if a better performance one will help or not. But with better exhaust and carb/intake, might look into rejetting the carb, for best performance.

Then can always go into BB kits. Performance head, and bigger piston kits. Can go from 155cc to 180cc. Anything over the 155cc kit requires boring. I just have the 155cc now. I did notice a good improvement once I upgraded the exhaust. Depending on kits, can get around $200.00 I think. EBAY or AMAZON.

After that, your pretty well set. Ohh. Forgot.. As posted you might look into the beefed up Engine mount. Well, cant forget about the Reverse. When you first buy it, and play with it, you dont think you need it. Yerf's are light, and easy to turn around. However, they have very poor turn radius. And you will be getting out more than you think, the more you drive it. Just guessing, in the end, you will put a reverse on it. Around $300.00.

And thoughts about your 600cc. Well, might do some upgrading to the GY6 first, before scraping it. They are good engines. Very upgradable. And very easy to work on. From the Trani, to the engine. Also, CHEAP!!!! Can buy brand new ones for around $300.00. Shipped. If top half of engine to the piston jug needs replaced, or upgraded, all you need is standard tools. Youtube, can show you how to do it all. Engine, CVT Trani, clutchs, and rebuilding of the carb. If done right, you can get good performance out of the gy6. Fraction of the cost it would take to put in a 600cc. And if the GY6 is done right, not sure you would see that much difference between the 2. Or at least if be worth the work it would take to do a engine Swap.

Sorry for long post. Bored this morning.
There might be other things I could be missing. Or other idea's, but it's a start.

Correction:::
The front end and Shocks might be more than that. Really need better front rims, to get good set of tires for it. And "A" arms, and spindles little more than first thought. And if your changing out front tires and rims, you'll want to do the back also.
So more around $800.00 ??? Some where around there. But that's font and back.
Worth it. Not only better handling, but the looks of it, is night and day also.
Brought my Yerf, into my buddies shop in the fall. worked on it all winter, in spare time.
There was ppl that seen the Yerf when I first brought it in. After front and rear upgrades with new rims and tires. And some paint. Everyone of them tried to call BS on me. Saying that was not the same Kart they saw earlier this year. My buddy, had to back me up. He saw me work on it, from start to finish.

Hey TK I really appreciate the input, thats what I am looking for! I'm gonna sell a few dirtbikes (I have 16) to fund some upgrades for this thing.

So my brother in law and I got to drinking some beers and decided to take it for a spin. Here he is after he smashed into a log at full speed due to its awesome turning ability:
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...psheev3zsr.jpg

And here is the aftermath:
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...pssq5doake.jpg

After this it started running like crap, either to hot or carb was flooding, so I had to ride on the back for a few miles and hold the throttle cable open because that seemed to make it go. Keep in mind we could not get the steering arm off the tire so we essentially lost use of that tire and any turning we originally had.

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...psg33qhcdp.jpg

We managed to make it 7 miles back to the house like this, the tire did end up blowing after running it on concrete and it spewing burning hot rubber chunks on us. But we made it back nonetheless.

I suspect a shortage of buggies in your area soon..lol

So here is the carnage, I think alot of this is rigged and not OEM, not that OEM is any good. Time to get some parts.
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps6q525le2.jpg
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgqchhy8b.jpg
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...psclva9itr.jpg
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...psyigrkslm.jpg
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...pseli6scxx.jpg
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/s...psnwhwnb9t.jpg

Lol. Well, I agree with liduno!!!! Lol.
With respect to this new information, may I highly suggest a decent set of 5 points. With help from t-bird I think. He suggested a used pair of racing 5 point seat belts. Pick them up on eBay $40-$60. Good condtion, and never wrecked. Priority #1 maybe? :).
If I'm correct, looks like generation 3 spindles. Which good. But need to replace the ball joints and a arms at same time. BD VERSIONS. Beefed up, after markets. You'll save money in the end. If want to save time and head pain. Bigger front tires and rims will increase steering also. Plus clearance.
And FYI. Yerfdogs have bad center of gravity. Easy to flip over. Bigger tires increase height of buggy. Which makes it easier to flip. I dislocated my shoulder earlier this year on mine. Did I bring up seat belts? :).

Looked at pics again. Maybe not 3 generation?? Make sure you know what kind you have before ordering.

Is there any good info on how to determine what this thing is?

You have a Yerf Dog Spiderbox 3209 , gx150 , 3206 are all the same buggy , except for color , and light location . Early ones had your lower control arms but shorter upper's and spindles for that application only , called Uneven or first generation . Second , and third generation have equal length control arms and stronger spindles , called even type .Your drivers side spindle is a weak first Gen. Spindle , notice how the axle is welded on from the outside . Your drivers side spindle is a stronger second , or third Gen. notice how the axle protrudes through and is welded on the inside . There are three types of ball joints. Original recalled junk ones , replacement ( which you have ) , and Buggy Depot Heavy Duty - THE BEST ! If you were ordering parts for yours , you would want even type third Gen. Spindles . While your at it remove the bolts that secure the bulkhead to the frame , and go to grade eight , and washers on the inside also (not done from the factory and the bolts usually pull through the slots ) meaning the whole front end parts ways.

Awesome this is what I am looking for info wise. So the uneven set-up suspension relates to the A Arms not being the same length corrrect? I dont think that the passenger side spindle is actually a spindle, it looks like somebody welded up some channel and made one, but I could be wrong.

So should I replace the lower A arms to make an even set-up? Should I just replace both spindles as the driver side one looks to be pretty damaged? I can probably welded some gussets in as I have seen in a different thread. The passenger side tire was completely bald indicating that my toe in or some part of the set up was toast. I going to pull everything apart soon and go through the motor and suspension, so just trying to get my ducks in a row.

Looks like you have the Even control arm setup in your pics , those are the better ones to have . You need a set of third generation spindles or B.D.Heavy Duty spindles , & B.D. Ball joints from Buggy Depot , also BMI has a lot of Yerf parts , they bought up Yerf's inventory when they folded . Buggy Depot carries replacement and high perf. parts .

Agree with Oldkid. If your going to put time and money into it. Go with the B.D. Heavy Duty Spindles and Ball Joints. From Buggy Depot. Bought 95% of my Heavy Duty parts from them. Good customer service. They good about helping you out if you got questions. (might take a few days to get back to you. But they will get back). As far as I know, they the only ones that have a Heavy Duty Axle, bolt in replacement. But again, Hubs not same as Stock, so something to look into, before buying rims, if you want to go that direction.
I bought the Front end 3" lift kit from them. And both upper and lower "A" arms. Plus the tie rod ends all at same time. Already had the Heavy ball joints, and spindles on it.

Some wonder, about the Lift kit they offer. But it's just front shocks, and rod extentions, with shock bracket extentions, so everything ties in a little better when putting on larger tires. Shocks are not the best. I happen find a much better set, a month after bought it. But a good starting place, and with the bracket extention, gives you little more options on the size of shocks you can use. Plus have spare set of front shocks if need them.
If You get the spindles. If you can, get upper and lower arms, and ball joints at same time, and lift kit is a 2nd option if you want. And if you can weld, re-inforce the front bulk head while your at it. BD does offer this also. But can save money doing it yourself. Will need to get longer bolts, and higher grade Bolts. as kid stated.
You get the front end taken care of, you have a big chunk of the Yerfdog's issues taken care of.
BMI is a good place for parts as well. Just keep an eye on thier shipping and handling. Some items get jacked up alot when that is added into it. Clink on check out, and put in your zip code to see what S&H will be. Then compare prices. Alot of their items are on Ebay or Amazon. And can get it cheaper go through that way, because the S&H is cheaper for some reason. (not sure why that is)

here's a yerf front end with all the goodies, BD spindles and brake kit, Heimed a-arms, gas shocks, Reinforced and lightened box. ITP pro light 10x5.5 wheels and Kenda front max 22x8x10 tires.

ME WANT !!! THAT'S ONE BAD DOG !!! Now you got to shows the rear....and the sides . What did you do for an axle ?

I have always been addicted to all things Offroad , especially when they're Badass , Trick'd Out . Unfortunately at this point of the game ( Physically , Mentally , and Financially Exhausted ) I have to settle with the thought regarding my Yerf ..... " A fine example of a stock 3206 in original unadulterated condition -- A True Classic " That thought works for a minute or two :cussing:

Mad Max vehicle

Still got my 1980/81 VCR copy of The Road Warrior ( OLDGIRL got tired of renting it for me after 10 or 12 times back then and bought it ) Didn't care for Mad Max or Beyond Thunder Dome as much , and haven't seen the new one yet , probably a lot of computer animated crap . All the stunts in the original were 100 Proof .

" and he lives now , only in my memory " ----- ferrell child/leader of the great northern tribe .

ya, Ckau can sure build a good Yerf. Just read the thread he built it on. He put a lot of work into it. Does look like a Mad Max buggy.
Here is a few pics of what I had when I bought it, and when got done with it this year.
Not bad ass looking as Ckau, but I cant help it. I got to put eagles up on anything I make. :).

Another Bad A-- Yerf . I figured it out . You folks got full grown Dogs , Mine is still a Puppy . :rofl:

Well.... Maybe still an older puppy. But just looks like need some bigger teeth. Adding some rims and decent tires would give him a bigger bite. :).

But that is one of the more costly items being put on a YD.

Well i only have bearings on one side of the front end, so I suppose my wheel may be bad. Havent had time to get into it, was just eyeballing it in the garage last night.

If you are going to upgrade, I wouldn't waste any money going back to stock stuff. However, bearing don't cost that much. I would suggest getting some front Hubs for the Front. BD has Hubs with a 4/4 bolt pattern. They cheaper. Or they have 4/110. Better ones, and can add front brakes to them later down the road if you want.
They run 35-45 each, depending on which ones you want.
Not sure what other places offer. But I'm sure they got something.

So now that I understand that the even/uneven is based on the hole locations of the spindle it makes more sense. From what I can tell the previous owner bored the bearing out of the passenger side wheel to accommodate the 5/8" spindle bolt, so that wheel is toasted. Good thing is it looks like I already have the passenger side HD spindle, so all I need is the even driver side heavy duty spindle. Can someone eye ball the picture and tell me if they think the original driver side spindle is actually an even, it looks like it may be offset, and I'm not at the house to actually verify. Getting ready to throw some parts at it.

for some reason, I cant see the pics again. Can you put up a pic of the spindles.

Well I determined last night that the original spindle that came on the Buggy is uneven and the one that was obviously replaced is even. That explains the uneven camber on the passenger side which has been replaced by the even side HD spindle. Looks like I need a set of BD heavy duty uneven spindles to get everything aligned, as well as ball joints and wheels/tires now too. Time to sell a dirt bike for some go cart funds.

Uneven type setup pertains to unequal length control arms , upper is shorter than lower ( early first buggies ) Even type - upper and lower control arms are the same length , they make heavy duty spindles for both styles , can't tell for sure by your pictures what you have . Get the proper ones , they don't interchange .

The other option is to get longer top a-arms so you can use even spindles. You will also get a little better articulation out of the front end by using even length a-arms verses what you have now.

that was going to be a question for me. Cant he get the even top and bottom heavy a-arms, then use heavy even spindles? If this is done, is the tie rods going to be to small? or would it matter?

Once you go to the BD a-arms, you have to use their HD ball joints. They have a lighter duty ball joint for OEM a-arms but neither OEM or BD light duty ball joints work with the HD a-arms.

The tie rods are the same length regardless of application and do not need to be changed out. BD had a set of offset spacers which helped reduce tie rod binding, but I broke a couple of those and went back to not using them. I don't know if they have an improved set or whether they are still sold.

Interesting. I think I am using the spacers you are talking about. Here is a pic of them. Are these the same kind you was using?
I cant say I've had any issues with them. They seem to be holding up fine. They came with the front end lift kit I got from BD. Maybe they are better made now?
However, the tie rod ends... Well that something else. I just got the kit earlier this year, and the tie rod ends. Or say the boots covering the bearings are pretty trashed.
Pretty sure I will replace them, come next season. Just don't look like they held up to well. But think they only cost $6.00 each, so no mayjor issue. Don't know of any Heavy Duty tie rod ends for the YD. That I know of.

On side note: you are right, you do need the Heavy Bearing for the Heavy A-arms. But there is not much room left on top of the threads after placing the Nut. The threaded bolt does not go all the way through the Nylon nut, as it should. Been few times, I've caught it being lose. So started using Lock tight at those locations. Seemed to help.

Those are the spacers I referenced in previous post. I was shearing the stud off the spacer that went to the spindle and suggested BD increase the diameter of the spacer body to give it better support or use a higher grade material.

I think JerseyDevil and CKau use Heim joints for their tie rods and ball joints. I'm not sure if they are using OEM thread on the tie rod or whether it is rethreaded for a different pitch.