How hard would it be, or is it even possible???
 

I am used to playing with regular go-karts, pull the rope and it goes and have been pretty successful with those since I have no mechanical or electrical abilities (just a little)... We tried something different this time and got a Twister Hammerhead 150cc..Perfect for my grandson and I like the safety belts that are on it...It was running fine but only going about 23 mph... Don't know what I did but now I am having a hard time keeping it running...I do have Air, Fuel and Spark but it will not stay running, it will start fine when I put carb cleaner in it but after that goes away it shuts down...I should just left it alone, but I did not... What I would like to do is get a 10 or 13 hp motor stick that on there, pull up the rope and have fun with it... I would also like to keep the clutch and chain from the GY6 ... The electrical part I do not need, just would like to swap the motor out and keep the drive train that is on it... It is a very nice little buggy, it has new tires all the way around ... If anyone has any ideas on this please let me know... Thanks ... Bob

personally I think it would be more trouble than it would be worth.

1st off, you would need new motor mounts, new throttle cable, new clutch with right kind of sprocket on it, etc. these are just a few things. Especially if you are not mechanically inclined or have the tools to do this with.

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I thought I would hear this and you are RIGHT... I was only going to do it if I could keep the clutch and drive train that is on it now...

They do make these with the lawnmower type engines already on them tho

Sounds like it isn't getting fuel.

ur better off keeping the gy6 engine. parts are cheap and dime a dozen, and honestly these engines are pretty easy to work on if you ask me. From what your saying it def. sounds like a fuel problem, tear carb apart clean it out real good and clean out both jets. Clean out fuel line, and in line filter if it has one if it doesn't I highly recommend it! Also if it sat for a while with same old gas I bet the petcock is clogged with crap, so I would recommend buying a new one of those. Try the carb cleaning and cleaning fuel line and adding a inline filter first. Also pull the spark plug and see what color it is, if its the original spark plug change that also. Its a couple of bucks to clean it up and get it running good, also check the cvt rollers to see if they are warn out.

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I kind of like the challenge of doing something I know nothing about and make it work, sometimes that happens (some of the time not) I also learn along the way and pick the brains of professional like you guys here and so far by reading some of the threads here I have learned a lot... Bob...

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I will try that tomorrow and see what happens... It was just an idea that crossed my mind as it would not start... Thanks for the info... Bob P.S. what is a CVT roller?

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From the answers I have been getting from you guys I should have it running...Thanks... Bob

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U R probably right, everyone here has helped me a lot I should have it going by tomorrow... Thanks... Bob

a cvt roller is part of the clutch on the engine, a internal part.

Definitely stick with the GY6.. It's a great little motor. You get that thing running and you'll be blasting around in no time..

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Hopefully it will be running today thanks to all of you guys....:) I will post it when I get it going ...Appreciate your reply back have a great day Bob

By all means keep the factory engine. The American Sportworks Carbide actually was born with a standard lawn mower go kart style engine but the GY6 setup is far superior. Jus ask away.

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Yes, I am going to keep it and get it going again with the help from you guys..
Took out the carb today and cleaned it, unfortunately I did not mark or remember where the vacuum lines and the gas line go on the carb ...
I do know that one goes to the intake but where the gas and other vacuum line goes to i will have to figure it out, unless you have an idea how it hooks up... Thanks... Bob

The fuel inlet will likely be the biggest port.

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Attachment 7087 I think this is a picture of the carb if i uploaded the file correctly . Thanks for the quick reply back..Bob

The bottom one on the bowl is the drain, the one with the black hose is a vent.

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Got it.... Thank you

I'm a little concerned with the diaphragm for the slide. It looks as if you have it squirting out the side of the cap?

yeah, if any air is leaking past that you're going to have problems.... :cussing:

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Sorry but you lost me when you said "diaphram" i think i put it back as i took it out, if there is a mistake i better fix it now have not re-installed yet as my screen name says blind man i actually am legally blind but God did leave me with a little bit of sight. If you can direct me to a mistake hopefully i can fix it tomorrow..Thanks... Bob


Attachment 7088

Attachment 7089

Attachment 7090

Attachment 7091

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i knew i should have left it alone:cussing:

Line goes from intake into a t. One end of t goes to petcock. The other end goes to vacuum port on top of carb on right side. It controls the slide for the carburetor. And its right side when you ate standing behind buggy so passenger side.

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Great thank you... Hopefully tomorrow i'll post good news that it is going.... Bob

P.S. I am not a professional like some of these guys. However, if you Google .... GY6 fuel vacuum diagram .... You should come up with multiple images. Here's one of them ... http://cdn.schematic.pics/images/abs...uumdiagram.jpg

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This is Awesome, even I can understand it... You made my day for tomorrow... Bob

In the first picture you posted yesterday, there looks to be some black rubber protruding out from under the top part of the carb.

I'm talking about the part that kind of looks like a hat. It may be normal, but I was concerned you may have installed the rubber diaphragm incorrectly. That diaphragm moves the slide up and down.

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I don't know why i took that apart, should have left everything alone ... The black you see on there is "black gasket material" i put on the edge of the cup ...At least i hope that is what it is... I may have screwed up that whole carb by taking that apart..Did i at least put the cap on correctly? Hopefuly we'll find out today, just woke up havibg some coffee and going over all the answers i got from you guys

next time you can take pics so you can always go back and look

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Very true ... am learning as i go and 1 of these days i will get it right, maybe i'll also grow up..:) with the replies i have been getting it should work today, i hope...Thanks...Bob

That pic. In post # 18 sure looks like the diaphragm protruding out to me . Their's an index tab that corresponds with a marking on the top of the carb. To properly locate it .

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My carb cleaning skills (have none) will end up costing me a new carb...The black you see on there is silicone i put on the edge before i put it back together (i hope) been messing with it all day and it will not start...If i get a new carb with a manual choke on it, is there anything else i need to change in the electrical box?... Should just had not touched anything on this, but it is too late now somehow i managed to get it not to work when IT WAS WORKING before i touched it:cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing: ... I got a new plug wire, CDI, spark plug and i do not think i needed any of that... Now it just wants to start but it does not...I have air, fuel do not know if i have spark as i can not see very well, my son is coming over tomorrow and we will check that.. The electric choke is working i tested that from a thread i read ... My stupidity i think just cost me a new carb. If i take that diaphram off again and make sure that it is just silicone on there do you think that could be the problem? I am actually leaning towards a new carb with the manual choke on it, unless i can get this one going... Thanks for taking the time to reply ... I do appreciate it... Bob

No sealer is usually needed for the diaphragm but shouldn't really be a problem. Before you go spending more money on a new carb, make sure you're getting fuel from the tank to the carb.

Those carbs are pretty straight forward and difficult to screw up.

T
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Ok i will try that tomorrow...The fuel is going to the carb... Earlier today i had SPARK now i don't... Do have a new plug wire... I am now confused...Bob:cussing::cussing:

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Those carbs are pretty straight forward and difficult to screw up.[/QUOTE]... I am really good at screwing up those bullet proof parts...:rofl:,\... Thanks for the speedy reply

If you're getting spark sometimes and not others, I would start looking at loose connections. I've seen wires pull out the back of the plastic plugs, and the two wires that go to the coil need to be a nice snug fit. Even if you have to give them a gentle squeeze with a pair of pliers.

Obviously make sure you have a good ground, and make sure all your battery cables are good and are tight.

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Battery cables are tight and i have the battery on a trickle charger. As much as i have been messing with this, most likely i do have a loose wire somewhere in that box, eventually it will work again and when it does i will leave it alone, which is what i should have done when it was working... Thanks for the suggestions... Bob

HEY , YOU ALLREADY HAVE A SPARK/CONTINUITY TESTER IN YOUR TOOLBOX , IF YOU HAVE NO SPARK IT WILL WORK MANY , MANY , TIMES . ON THE OTHER HAND IF YOU DO HAVE SPARK IT IS ONE TIME USE ONLY AND YOU WILL HAVE TO GET ANOTHER , I'VE HAD MANY .........------HEY KID HOLD THIS WIRE FOR ME .:evil:

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I used a voltmeter on the "ohm" part of it and it does show that the wire is good, do not know if that is correct or not... As much as i have been in the electrical box i can guarantee you i knocked a wire loose, that will be my project for tomorrow... Today we are going to te last day @ Barrett Jackson auction... They have some amazing autos going across the auction block.. Have a great day and thanks for the tip...And yes, i was the "kid" yesterday when I did have spark, it tingles) Bob...

"IT'S ALIVE"

After re-reading all the replies I got from you guys, I got it going today and i am so happy
Put in a new ignition switch, tightened up a few wires and it now RUNS... I want to THANK all of you for your help... And for new members there is no such thing as stupid questions as I have already asked them and everyone here were very helpful. Could not have done it without your help...

Good to hear you got it worked out.

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Yes it felt good to hear it crank up... Now when I hook up the ELECTRIC choke it dies after a few minutes... I want to go to a Manual Choke what do you think? I just don't understand why that choke is there if it runs without it hooked up... By the way I tested the electric choke and it works, even got a new one and the same thin happens... Any ideas? Thanks... Bob

glad we could help you see the light blindman lol

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Love it....:) There's always light at the end of that tunnel... You can always find it if you look hard enough....

I heard that bro

Sometimes it's a train coming the other way...lol

Congratulations on getting it running.

thats 4 real 2

thats when u need 2 be ready to shift to high gear and get out of there. lol:drive:

sounds like the wire going to the choke is shorting out somewhere.

is the engine puffing black smoke when it turns off?

You may be misunderstanding how the choke works. It's normally in the choke/enrich position. Meaning when it's unplugged the choke is on/full rich. When you plug it in it will slowly turn off/lean out, usually takes a few minutes.

When the plunger inside the choke slowly extends it blocks off the extra fuel.

You may still be having a fuel issue.

The term "choke" on these causes a lot of misunderstanding. a choke closes off air feed while the FEVs really just put more fuel into the carb.

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I let it run for over 30 minutes with the choke unplugged... Giving it gas just like i was riding it (had the back wheels up on on jack stand) and it ran fine.. Took it to the store the other day it ran fine, on the way home it started acting up (the trip was only 2.6 miles round trip) Took the carb out again today cleaned it out real good tomorrow I will test drive it, by cleaning out the carb the backfiring stopped (almost) it used to backfire all the time before now very seldom (happy with that) Guess I'll just keep it unplugged and see what happens.. I will know more tomorrow after a real test drive on it and keep you posted... Once again Thanks to everyone that has walked me thru this... Bob

Back firing usually means a lean condition.

If plugging the choke in makes it run bad after it's warmed up then something isn't right.

When working correctly the choke should slowly lean out the mixture. After a few minutes the choke should be fully extended blocking off any extra fuel.

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This is a new choke that i have and tested it before installing (on testing the needle did extend)... I agree with you something is wrong...Going on real test drive tomorrow and will try both ways and will let you know, but in my mind it should work as designed by the manufacturer... Went to a scooter store today to get a jet for the carb told the guy what i have told you and he said to NOT plug it in, i don't think this is correct, once again I know nothing about this... Thanks for the reply... Bob

I'm not implying the choke is bad. I was implying that the buggy is running so lean that having the choke on full rich/unplugged, helped make up for the lean condition.

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Ok... what should i do? And if i already asked this question or it has been answered, please hang with me:) I truly do not know but it is a challenge i am willing to take on and will make it work ... There is light at the end of that tunnel and even I will see it :) ...Thanks ...Bob

You need to figure out if it's running lean with the choke operating. If so, figure out why.

Is there a plugged jet? Is the float level correct? Is there enough fuel getting to the carb?

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Got a carb rebuilt kit yesterday, the jets are clean and new, kit did come with a new float, will change the float today and see...Tanks Bob................
P.S.
Is the float level correct? ow do i check that?

You would be best to look it up because my memory is terrible, but I ''think'' it's 18mm from the bottom of the float to the base of the carb. That might be the setting for a different carb though, I work on a lot of different things.

This is measured just as the float closes the needle. You may not even have an adjustable float.

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Got it going with the electric choke hooked up it ran fine...It did not before i cleaned the jets, I am happy with that... Now here I go again...I am used to regular go-karts this is my first buggy, the 6.5 hp motor geared with a 72 t sprocket and 12 t clutch are pretty snappy (and less weight)... I can only get this thing to go 26 MPH and it takes a while to get there... Is that Normal? Other then opening up the engine (can u imagine the questions i'd ask on that 1)...:) is there anything i can do to get it to go faster? And liduno thank you very much for hanging with me ... Bob

26 on asphalt or dirt? Is the clutch/cvt operating properly? If the cvt isn't letting the belt travel it's full distance in either direction you will lose power. Think of the cvt as an ever changing gear ratio.

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On asphalt...I better start reading up on the CVT, that is the only other thing i can think of at this time

26 is pretty slow on asphalt. Not sure what size tires you have and what gear ratio you have, compared to stock. A tall tire and a short gear will put a hurting on power.

Is the airbox and filter stock? If that's been changed I would be doing a plug check to make sure you don't need to change the jetting.

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Bought it used a few weeks ago... I do know it is a 2004 by the vin#... On the manuals i have looked at online the air cleaner box is the same, but the filter they show is a 'Round' canister type... What i have is a 'foam type and a screen in front of it" Do not know what size carb i have it does say

'KF JAPAN STANDARD JG FK12JL51' those are the numbers and letters my wife was able to see and write down for me...Do not know what those numbers and letters stand for... By chance do they make any sense to you? Bob

P.S. If i do change 'jets' do i go bigger or smaller and by the letters and numbers on the carb displayed above are you able to tell me what size carb i have and what jets i need and where to get them?

You can tell the size of the carb by measuring the opening on the intake side of the carb.

You will know if you have to go bigger on the jet if the plug is too lean/white. Smaller if you have a rich/black plug.

Youtube has some great videos on how to jet a carb.

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Great i will check out youtube. Just pulled the plug (it is new) it was black... Bob

It may be black from running it with the choke on.

I would get it up to normal operating temp then throw in a new plug, make a wide open throttle run and check it again.

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Will try that tomorrow, i do have a new plug and let you know... Thanks... Bob

The Blind Man (Bob),

I have a similar model from Northern tools produced by Carter Bros. called the carter Talon. My buggy is about a 2004, not exactly sure, had it for a while. 23 mph is slow for asphalt for that model, but I read you have new tires on it. My model has the stock tires which I would consider pretty fierce as far as mud terrain pattern goes. They are no where close to street slicks, hah. The type of tire you have will affect your speed. Anyway, my carts top speed with stock variator rollers and stock torque spring was about 40 mph on asphalt. As for all your carb issues, you may want to look at ebay, I have purchased several carbs from a dealer for about $35 and it comes with everything even the auto choke (a good buy, and this one has lasted 2 years). Your cart should definitely be going faster, even all stock. Before you attempt to do any upgrades I would suggest making sure everything you have is operating properly. If your vacuum lines are rotten, buy new rubber hose same diam from your local autoparts store. Check your intake manifold, its rubber too (comes off carb), if its rotten buy new one (ill but a parts website in link, make sure you buy the right one. there are two types. less than 10$). Air leaks will result is less performance. Get an iridium spark plug, check to make sure your spark plug wire assembly is also in good shape. If its not, again buy a new one, these parts are fairly inexpensive. I would also suggest checking your petcock and the filter. The whole system is operated on vacuum, so this goes back to if your vacuum lines are rotten and have small invisible leaks you could be loosing performance without visible cause. Check to make sure your gas pedal moves the throttle cable a full open/close on the carb, it will take two people. Just have someone push the pedal down all the way and check to make sure on the carb it opens it completely.

If all that checked out, odds are your problem is somewhat internal. Over time the rollers in your variator get "flat spots" which cause them not to roll as well as they should. Another common thing ive seen is the torque spring in the clutch gets too hot and warps, which can also cause losses (same thing goes with clutch springs x3). You can look up gy6 cvt how it works on youtube and understand completely what I am talking about in 5 minutes. I would suggest doing research on variator weights to choose the right weight based on the performance you want. Same goes with torque spring and clutch springs. If you decide to do this, same yourself a whole lot of time and watch several videos on how to change what I have mentioned. Get the tools you need ahead of time. You will need to buy/piece together/weld your own spanner wrench if you don't have one because you have to prevent the variator & clutch from spinning while you loosen the bolt (or have a really nice torque impact gun). With the tools and the know-how you can do it.

Also it is fairly simple in some models to check your valve clearances, never a bad idea. My cart its a pain in the rear to get to so just something to keep in mind.

Once you've gone through that there is always the electrical part of the cart. You may be familiar with the mechanical form of rev limiter or "governor". These carts have whats called a cdi (ac or dc is something very important to keep in mind). You can get a non rev limit cdi which will allow you to get more performance out of your cart. There are many different companies who make them, but i have had friends purchase the ones on the parts website I will link to you and they had very noticeable gains. Some are very expensive on other websites so I would suggest comparison.

The CVT upgrades and cdi are your best bet to gain performance. cdi installation is two screws and a plug. CVT is a little more involved, but definitely possible. Take the wheel off, and there is like 8 or 10 bolts on the cover and a ground. On that note always disconnect your battery when working on anything of this nature. I would also sugest getting a new gasket as yours is probably shot (in parts link, cheap, make sure you buy the right one). One that's off you are looking at your variator and clutch. Belt has to come off too.

Last, If you decide to upgrade cdi I would definitely upgrade the cvt stuff I have mentioned. Keep in mind your old stock stuff is your weakest link once you start upgrading.

Parts link <<<<<

Good luck,
Matt

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Matt, Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge with me, everyone here has been wonderful... Here's where i'm at now... Have new plug, plug wire, electric choke, cleaned out the carb real well, cdi, resistor for the auto choke, coil and the max speed i got on it is 27mph...I am afraid that it most likely is the belt or rollers on the cvt or something to do with that, that is going to be my next step, been watching videos on youtube and i do have the necessary tools... my problem (mostly fear) is that i have never done anything like this before and need to get comfortable with the process before i tear into it and my eye sight is not very good but it is a challenge and i am going to get this thing going as it should go . Usually i buy go karts my grandson and i play with them for 2 to 3 weeks then i get rid of it and get another one and repeat the cycle..This is our first buggy...But my grandson likes this one and so do I and we are going to keep it I only paid $300 for it and i think the tires and wheels that came with it cost close to that amount... With the knowledge of people like yourself and others here I will be able to achieve my goal of getting it going correctly (just hang with me on the stupid questions)... Have a great day ... Bob

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The tires are new front and rear 22's in the back and 20's in the front... Do not know the gear ratio or how to tell on this buggy...
Do not know why but it runs better with the "Electric Choke" unplugged...It is new along with the resistor.... I did test the electric choke and the needle on it does extend approximately 3 mm after about 5 minutes

We've gone over this. If the buggy is warmed up and it runs better with the choke unplugged, then you have a lean condition. The choke is in the full rich position when unplugged.

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U R correct we did go over this... Sorry about that

Update===== Got the backfiring to stop, carb is cleaned and the air/fuel mixture is correct... The speed is still not there, my next mission will be to watch youtube videos on the CVT... I read somewhere about clutch weights (i think it's correct) what type of weights should i put on there? Most of our riding will be in the desert terrain and short trips on asphalt (2.6 miles round trip to the store)... Thanks... Bob

One's that you would feel comfortable with.

http://www.**********.com/buggy-tech...fications.html

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Thanks for the advice ... Think i will try 10g ... Bob

UPDATE.... I never thought I would be able to do this as I do not have the skills for it ( I was wrong)... Could not get my kart to do more than 24/26 mph.... With everyone's help on here (and you guys do know what you are doing) I watched You tube videos and accomplished this... 1. Adjusted the valves... 2. Changed the carb out to a 26mm one... 3.Actually opened up the case and changed the weights on it to 12g and a 1500 rpm spring...4. Flow-thru exhaust... Now here comes the amazing thing to all of this... IT ALL WORKS was able to put it back together (and had no extra screws left over)... Now it gets up to speed faster before it used to crawl, and I clocked it @ 35 mph... All of you gave me the courage I needed to make it happen and I am very happy...:) Thanks... Bob...

Glad you got it worked out. :cheers:

nice 35mph isn't bad at all, what size sprocket do you have the axle ?

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I think it is the stock sprocket on it, this is the 1st buggy we have had and we really like it and going to keep it... I do know on a regular go kart a 72 t rear and 12 t clutch works great on it (without burning out the clutch very fast) ... But this something i should look into... What do you suggest to be a good set up for more speed?... I never thought I was capable of doing the things I did to it but i did it and it all has worked (so far)... Thanks...Bob

Go with a big valve head and camshaft combo, u said speed so maybe a a10 camshaft will be good for you. Also port ur manifold. Its not to expensive and if ur willing to do the work its probably some of the best upgrades u can do for these 150s.

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Awesome, back to youtube to watch more videos...:) My next project on it is to get rid of the "Electric Choke" Good or Bad Idea? I live in AZ so there is no cold start issues, from what i have been reading it will also stabilize the idle...Thanks Bob

check your sprak plug, if you have some decent amount of black around the outside ring of the plug then you might not need it, try just disconnecting the connection wire first if she starts fine every time hot and cold then you might not need it where you live, you still have the 35 pilot jet im guessing.

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Do not know what size pilot jet I have.. I did install a 26mm carb on it whatever comes standard with that is what I have.. Also changed the muffler and went to a uni filter after reading some stuff i ordered a 125 main jet (hope i got the correct one) it will be here Monday...When i 1st got the buggy the choke was NOT plugged in... I will try that again and see what happens... Thanks... Bob

Keep in mind that when the choke is unplugged it will be full rich. And you might have wanted to see what jet you have before ordering another.

You also will want to check that you have power to the choke and that the choke is working. If you go to Americansportworks.com you can pull up the service manual for the model 7150 which is the same engine except it being an internal reverse but the rest of the engine will be identical. The manual will have everything you need from checking the choke, charging system, ign. system to total rebuild. Easy to follow instructions and plenty of good illustrations.

Thank you .. Bob

WOW!!!! What a difference this made...I converted the Electric choke to a Manual Choke... Night and Day difference... I used the original electric choke, gutted everything out, got a Manual Choke assembly from O'Reilley auto parts (part # 55101, same part # @ Pepboys) for $9.95 plus tax... It idles MUCH better, going for a test drive later today but by the way it sounds it will be fantastic...Do not know if I can share the link on here for the conversion, but it is fairly simple (especially if i did it) If i am allowed to share the link I will gladly do so or you can buy a conversion kit already made for $40/50... Either way at least for me it worked GREAT....Thanks... Bob

At risk of being repetitive, the electric choke is normally in the rich position, when supplied with power it extends and is then in the lean position.

If you gutted it and didn't block off the ports that allow the extra fuel then you are running a full rich condition. It would be like running full choke all the time.

If I misunderstood your post then I apologize.

I thought if it was disconnected then there wouldn't be any fuel flow from that position?

The electric choke plugs the hole when it extends. It extends when it gets power.

No power=full rich/full choke

gotcha

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I tried it both ways connected and disconnected (i have always had fuel going to it, sorry if it i made it seem like there was not)... What i have found is that with the choke connected or not it was never really idling right... Another reason i went to a manual choke was to challenge myself to see if i could do it (and get it right)... Now it idles nice and smooth after it warms up within 5/6 minutes just got back from a test ride and did notice a small difference in the way it got up to speed (a tad faster it seemed)... Have 12g weights on it now, tomorrow going to try 10g, then i also have 9g weights to try out... This stuff is all new to me and i am shocked that i have been taking stuff apart and making it work (usually i take it apart and it never works again)..Thanks... Bob

Let us know your location and terrain you ride. There is enough experience on here to get you in the right direction with out having to spend money you don't have to. This will leave more money for the mods. that will make a difference in your favor

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I like your idea...I live in AZ... When my son comes over we take it out to the desert no real big hills, just dirt, rocks solid ground and when my grandson is here we start up the kart and all of his buddies come over and as long as their parents are with them I let them go around the block a few times on asphalt... So far I have put on a uni filter, 26mm carb and 125 main jet, my son created a real nice straight pipe for the muffler ( it is not too loud, but just enough for me to say let's bring it in before neighbors get annoyed, want to keep them happy)... Since i have 2 carbs i converted one to a manual choke and i did feel a small amount of difference on it...Running 12g weights on it with a 1500 rpm spring.. By friday i should have a performance CDI in the mail... Being our 1st buggy just not used to it being so slow and taking a long time to get there, did hit 35 mph last week but it only happened once, now the highest i have hit is 28 mph... Think i have covered everything on it... Thanks... Bob

I'm curious, did it hit 35 with the new carb and electric choke hooked up? Or was it with the manual choke setup?

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New carb and electric choke hooked up, with the manual choke i have a bit more control once it warms up... Also when i hit 35 it was on asphalt with the air cleaner OFF... I know you can not run with it off but i had to try it...Going to try out 10g weights hopefully today and let u know, have 12 on it now...Thanks.. Bob