Mods installed
 

Okay my mods are installed and I have questions.
My mods are in my signiture. No leaks, no smoking, and no crazy abnormal noises. Only noise is slight noisr from exhaust valve.
I adjusted valves intake at .003 and exhaust .005
Installed new plug and oil.
Put 134 main jet in and using stock 35 pilot.
I have to adjust my a/f screw about 4-5 turns counter clockwise and then it idles perfectly for about as long I want it too. When I give it more than 1/8-1/4 throttle it dies..... My plug is black as can be. I won't be able to do a WOT test since cylinder and cylinder head are new.
Also I am at approximately 700' elevation in northern West Virginia.
Maybe I will try my 38 pilot and go down to 130 main and see eat happens. No time till the weekend for that anyways. What do you guys think?

The porcelain and head of plug are black.

I am wondering if you are covering up an air leak by turning the mixture screw so far out. Usually the mixture screw is in the neighborhood of 2 turns

Huh, interesting thought. Aren't I allowing in more air in by turning counterclockwise?

Nope. The mix screw on these GY6 control the fuel flow. Further out, more gas. Good rule of thumb on these carbs- Mixture screw before throttle valve/butterfly, controls air. Mixture screw after butterfly, controls fuel. I agree to go back and double check for leaks in the manifold or lines. Run the screw in till it just seats, then start with 1.5-2 turns out. You should be running there, and can fine tune it from there. You have a really rich mix right now. I know you were planning on changing it with the break in, but be sure there is no fuel in the oil.

Okay, guys will check for leaks as soon as possible. Would/could there be fuel in the oil from having the a/f screw out so far?

Check ur dipstick for smell or looks of gas.

Checked dipstick. No signs or smell of gasoline. Looks like the oil I put in several hours ago. Gas would come to the top I believe..... I even had my nine year old daughter smell gas, oil, and then dip stick. She said it smelt like the oil can.

If you are running really rich, the fuel can 'wash' down the cylinder and enter the oil there. Gas will mix with oil since both are petroleum based, it will smell of fuel and be substantially thinner than regular oil.

okay guys. I put a/f screw back to 2 turns out. Checked for air leaks; no signs or symptoms. Changed plug and started again It starts but will only idle for maybe a minute then dies. I could go pass 1/2 throttle with out it die-ing, but it would sputter and bog. I could adjust idle and get it to idle but it seemed like revs were a little to high to my liking.
Plug still turned black but not as black as previous plug. probably due to me not running it longer.
So, i guess I will try the larger 38 pilot and drop done to maybe 30 main jet and see what happens this weekend.

P.s. white smoke out on initial start up is okay right?

Idle air/fuel ratio is controlled by pilot jet and air screw and float level. The main jet will be insignificant to the idle problem.

I am aware of this. I guess since I am not really going past 1/2 throttle my plug is getting black from pilot jet huh?
With all my mods I would think a 134 main would be some where in the ball park....
Maybe I will leave in 134 and just try 38 pilot jet.

actually, I am gonna switch the main too. I have been reading and people with similar mods and lower elevations are running 125-130 mains.

Have you checked the float level? Jetting is pointless until you have verified that you have the proper float level. Mine (trailmaster 150) was set at 18mm from the factory.

Here is an excellent write up w/pics on how to set your float level. Even if you know how, it is worth checking out. It is a motorcycle carb, but the same rules apply.

http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/...mentary-13608/

If it where me i would play with the air/fuel screw.

Back it out only one full turn and see what happens to the plug.

Dont worry about the jetting right now, just see if you can correct it with the air/fuel screw.
You will also need to play with your idle set screw at the same time you play with your air/fuel screw.
It can be frustrating and time consuming.

When trying to tune or fix carb problems it is best to change only one thing at a time. The first thing to check is the float level because it effects every circuit of the carburetor. When opening your carburetor for the first time it is a good idea to document all of the factory settings; float level, air/fuel screw setting, pilot jet size, needle jet size and clip location, and main jet size. You can use your air/fuel setting to determine what size pilot jet to run. Adjust the air/fuel screw to achieve the highest idle or highest vacuum reading. If you are more than 2 turns out, you need a larger pilot. If you are less than 1 turn out, you need a smaller pilot. The optimum pilot jet size will put your air/fuel screw between 1 and 2 turns out.

I wouldnt worry about the float level if he hasnt moved it from factory setting.

Worse case is the float is too low causing the pilot to not be able to get gas. We know the problem is that he is getting too much gas so i wouldnt worry about the float level.

I would recommend playiing with the air/fuel screw and go from there.

I would worry about the float level, as 351 mentioned, it will affect the whole range of carburetor operation. Also you always need to remember, that just because something is new, doesn't mean that it is right. In fact it is always a good idea to clean and checkout new carbs, because I have seen metal shavings in new carbs from the machining processes. Also, don't worry about the main jet yet. Unless you are doing WOT, it has absolutely no effect. The idle circuit is far more important then the main, since it is always playing a part in the whole carburation scheme.

Float level raises with age. As the needle and seat wear (from opening and closing constantly while the engine is running) the float level will eventually raise, causing the engine to run rich.

I would consider checking the float level a tune-up item, like changing a spark plug or cleaning the air filter.

Okay, we'll since I have to go into carb anyways I will check float level. Anyone know keinan float level range? If within normal limits I will go to larger 38 pilot.
Thanks for all the info guys. I will check Sunday. I have been Welding together a welding cart / table in my free time ( which is rare between work and kids).

I am guessing your float level should be 18mm. Mine was at 18 and I dug up some info from somewhere that specd 18.5mm. Check the link I posted for the proper way to check it. If you are running rich on the low side, why would you want to go larger on your pilot? Like stated before, use the air/fuel setting to determine the correct pilot jet size.

I just re-read your first post. The air/fuel setting suggests going larger on the pilot jet. I would still only change one thing at a time. If the float level is off, adjust it, then reset the air/fuel screw. If the float level checks out, change the pilot, then reset the air/fuel screw. Once you have the pilot dialed in, move to the main jet. Make sure the engine is at operating temp when adjusting the air/fuel screw and any other carb tuning.

Fyi my air/fuel was set at 1.25 out from the factory. Mine seemed to like 4-5 turns out better, like yours. I have a 38 pilot in now, which seems to keep the air/fuel screw at close to 2 turns out.

Absolutely! The float level should be double checked every time before putting the bowl back on. The float is very sensitive. Just the process of changing jets can and will disturb the setting.

Just found that mine is to be set at 18.5mm. Stock
Will check it Sunday.

I saw that too. You will find that .5mm will be pretty tough to eyeball.
Usually you try to get as close as possible. Most carbs have a +/- 1mm tolerance.

I am at 12mm right now. Will adjust tonight and run in a.m.
I think I should still put the larger pilot in tonight since j was 4-5 turns out.

Changing the float level will change your air/fuel screw adjustment. I would set everything to stock. Then make your changes one at a time. Did you check out the link on setting the float? It can easily be done wrong. The main thing is, taking the measurement when the tab just comes into contact with the spring loaded pin, not depressing it.

That site was very helpful. I did just as it said. I really think the float adjustment will help. Thanks. I do understand the one thing at a time concept, but since my mods I feel these are where I might need to be. I messed around with the settings with stock components on buggy. So since I have a lot more air flow with uni, gutted exhaust, BBK and A12. I really feel like I am heading in right direction.
If it doesn't work out I will be back to stock pilot and go from there. I must be on my 30th time of rejetting with combos since adding uni. I do appreciate all the help.

here is where I am at. Reinstalled and tried to start; nothing...... I kept cranking and cranking and it would not fire up......!
Looked in gas tank and it was bone dry. Dope!!!
Anyways put gas in and then went to start, then battery died. When I was jump starting it like I have before from my truck to my buggy with a lawn and tractor battery, nothing now... Dash does not light up or anything now. Is it possible to have burnt something out? If so what would it most likely be? where should I start? I don't have any voltage testers or meters....

Check that the ground wire to the cvt cover is tight and obviously the battery cables. Without any type of tester it will be hard to find the break in the circuit. Even a test light would be a big help to you.

bought a multi meter and still having trouble finding problem. I have continuity every where but not extactly sure how to test cdi or regulator to see if they are good.
http://www.amsportworks.com/pdfs/LUT...al-14589R4.pdf I have this and I still feel like I don't know what I am doing.

Testing a CDI and regulator is not an exact science. Some will post specs for each leg, but most units rarely fall within the specs, and still operate correctly. I posted a simple start to your issues on your other thread, also check the ignition switch. If possible, just jump the switch terminals to rule it out.

I am not familiar with your buggy, but both my HH and my Yerf have a fuse in a fuse holder in the electrical box. When it blows, nothing works. Check the fuse first (if you have one), then start your checking.

Fuse was intact with continuity

The only thing you just worked with was your carb. The only electrical wires that could cause the problemis your auto choke might want to check that... maybe iI'm wrong idk.

I just re read your post disregard its something else. Hopefully you had your truck off when you jumped your buggy.

Update. Electrical problem was a loose wire and is now fixed.
The 38 pilot jet is in and float level adjust to 18-19 mm
Will not start still. 351 you are right again " only change one thing at a time.
I will put stock 35 pilot back in and hope it starts and runs like it should.

One size up on the pilot shouldn't keep it from starting. It may take a little cranking to get the float bowl filled with gas. Make sure you didn't miss a vacuum line. Pull the fuel line from the carb and make sure you get fuel flow (be careful of spilling gas, especially if you are close to a heater of some sort). If you get fuel from the line, put it back on and check that the float bowl is getting gas. I am not sure if you can get to the float bowl drain screw, but opening it will tell if there is gas in the bowl. Once again, be careful with gas and open flame. Also check the sparkplug to see if it is wet from too much fuel. Might as well check for spark while it is out.

no gas in float bowl, when i loosened drain screw nothing came out.
why do you think?

Did you check for fuel coming from the tank? If you have fuel flow from the tank, then the float could be hung up from re-assembley or the float level is set wrong. You could try tapping on the bowl with a screwdriver handle. If that doesn't work you will have to remove the bowl and check things out.

Okay, well I solved that.
With the 18-19mm float adjust it didn't allow the needle to unseat itself fully.
Set float at about 16-18 area and it allows gas in bowl. YAY
Left the 38 pilot jet in and it idles nicely. No bog until 1/2 - 3/4 throttle with 130 main jet.
Once engine cools will loook at plug from approx 10 of idle

I think I will put in 35 pilot again since It is still a little black with mostly idle. Still bogs at 1/2 or greater throttle. Think I will drop down to 126 main and try that.
Jetting is fun.

Plug is still getting pretty black even at idle. Going to go back to 35 pilot. Still boggy at mid to top so probably go my 124 main jet.

The best way to jet the idle circuit is by using your air/fuel screw. Run the pilot jet that keeps the screw between 1 and 2 turns out. I would guess the 38 is about right, but see where it puts the screw. Double check the float level again. The first picture is off and the last pic is when it is right. It is important to measure when the float tang just comes into contact (not compressing it) with the spring loaded pin on the fuel inlet needle. You can do this by tilting the carb until the float moves into the measuring position. Don't worry about the main jet until you have the ploat level, pilot jet, and air/fuel screw straightened out.



http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1dc390ce.jpg

http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/...psac939f95.jpg

http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/...pse5221f49.jpg

Thanks again, I did do floats properly. I am only 1.5 turns out on a/f screw with the 38 pilot. So....maybe I should just leave that. Will drop main jet to 126 and see what happens.

Your problem sounds like mine when my Regulator/CDI went bad. It would idle all day long but hated when it got gas. It would pop and crack and miss after half throttle. I just replaced both of them and my jetting "problem" went away.

Ya??? huh.....
I look at everyone's setup and I have more mods but seem I am using smaller jets.
Then I look at Johnny 5 and he uses stock 35 pilot in both is 155cc and 183cc BBK buggies and a 126 main and he is So. Cal. closer to sea level.

You and I are not far from each other and have the same machine but seems that I run to damn rich. Oh well I will keep working out the bugs I guess.

2nd thought..... I don't think it is a CDI or regulator problem. Before I started this jetting journey; when I was stock everything ran great.

:stupid:
 

Can you say shmuck?
I had the 38 pilot in and 126 main. I did end up having a 1/2 throttle bog, but my top end screamed.
I put in 35 pilot and that took care of the bog, but like a shmuck I had also replaced 126 main with 128. Top end bog came back :banghead:
I should have listened:buttkick: to you 351stanger.....
Tomorrow I will leave the 35 pilot in there, and put the 126 main in and......I think it will be dialed in and ready to go.

One thing at a time, so you can tell what works and what doesn't.

When I was stock, everything ran fine for me too. I swapped out my exhaust, intake and ignition coil and all my problems started. Thought it was jetting too and went through numerous configurations until I gave up and bought the CDI and Regulator. Jetting was no longer an issue afterwards. Runs great now.

Did you buy the ASW Cdi ?? Just boggles my mind. I have the 126 main in now. And still bogging on me, sheesh....

Yes, bought both from ASW.

Funny thing too.... Even after charging my battery, there is never enough juice to start my buggy. Battery is less than a year old and have only charged it maybe 5-10 times on battery tender. Wonder if that is a regulator problem. Also since I got a12 cam and that changes timing should I get a performance Cdi?

What is the iridium plug about??

Now that you hopped your motor up ho ahead and use a perf. CSI... your charging problem may very well be you regulator maybe.

Go ahead and use a performance CSI. My typing went nuts on me above. Lol

It did it again.. cdi

Haha thanks Eddie. Kidnme sells dc cdi for buggies so will try it out soon then....

After doing some reading I found several posts where Tom from syc says you will get little to no performance gains with a dc Cdi .
He says most ac buggies get the dc converting Cdi which Gives them more performance. Oh well will stick with stock Cdi.

Never really got the buggy running optimally since I started all the mods. It still had the bog past half throttle.
Now with the 35 pilot and 126 main I am just having hard time getting it to start. I have a manual fuel enrichment valve FYI.
It now turns over and acts like it is going to start but, never really fires up. And while cranking it, if I attempt to give it gas; it quickly dies out.
When I pull the plug after trying to start it for five mins with( fuel enrichment on/ open and a/f screw 1.5 turns out from seated.)

The plug looks wet and smells like gas.
I am assuming this is normal, right? hints while it is a fuel enrichment valve.
I am guessing that it might be air deprived.
What does everyone think?

Definitely too rich. Try it without using the enrichment valve, if still wet and not starting, then lean out the pilot jet.

Thanks I will try it out.

Just closed up enrichment valve a little and that seemed to help.
I am close to dialing it in. I am up to 134 main and just a little to lean still with some top end bog.
just ordered 136, 138, and 140 mains. hoping these will do the trick.

Tried 136 and 138 and still rich and still has the top end bog. I am getting so frustrated with jetting crap.
I have top end bog on every jet I have. Ever tried.
Could cdi cause this??

gutted stock muffler may be giving you the issue. got any pics of it? air in, air out, you may want something a bit "freer" for the top end.

http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/sh...gutted+exhaust
post #4 essentially is what it looks like gutted. Except I cleaned it up better after taking the pic.

Here are a couple you tube vids of where I am at now with the 136 main and 35 pilot.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S8xvvKoM6M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSUseKbhaIM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyxMykqT9-E

Thanks for all the help too.

Ok, you need to recheck where you are and get a definite base line. Above are 2 conflicting quotes, and with just one size difference, you should not have that drastic of a change.

A CDI could cause weak spark and a false rich condition, but this is pretty unlikely, because most times it will also be hard to start when cold. Since you never mentioned a hard start issue, we can almost rule that out.

In a perfect world, we all would have a pile of new plugs lying around for jetting purposes, but in your case, stay with the same plug, or wire brush it ever other jet change, until you can iron out the surging issue. To me, in the video, it sounds like it is loading up on fuel, but again, your plug is the tell tale.

I would start by dropping about 4 sizes(smaller) on the main, and make sure the enrichment valve is fully closed, and see where you stand. Do this till you see a change in the top end. When you get it close, then pop in a new plug and fine tune it.

If it starts and idles well, and does not surge or stumble off idle, then you likely have the pilot pretty close.

If you are still concerned about the CDI or coil, then you can try this and watch it or have someone watch when it bogs, but I doubt the ignition is to blame, since this all started after the engine mods.

I know you are right. I will do again with valve closed completely.
Just out of curiosity could a misaligned cam shaft cause this.? I am pretty sure it is in correct.

what do you mean by a misaligned canshaft? warped or what? not seated good?

If the timing was off, you should have running issues at all engine speeds. I'm not too versed on the GY6 timing marks, but honda designed them to be pretty easy to read and align. If you are unsure, it never hurts to make 110% sure.

In a previous post you stated it ran well with a 126 main and you changed to a 128 when you opened the carb to change the pilot. I would revert back to that as a starting point. Although it is cold, it should be able to run without the enrichment valve after it runs ~5min or so, even in subfreezing temps. If it's open even a little, it will be rich and run like poop.

hey master I drove down what they call the motor mile in Greenville,S.C. not too far from me, the other week and almost all the dealers were looking for technicians, according to their signs out front. toyota, lexus, and several others. must be pretty scarce around here.

Okay I will start there again and see what happens. Thanks for the feedback.

Yeah, most dealers here are expanding and doing the same thing, heck even we are planned to expand into our new facility in a few months. They want experience, but don't want to pay for it. Offered several jobs in the last year, not one wanted to pay what I called, a fair price for my services. The other reason you see those signs, old timers mass exiting the business due to the greed factor in management. It's the same everywhere.

Okay guys!!! I believe I found the problem at hand. I think it is float and needle in the carb.
I went back to the 126 main and before I put the bowl back on I checked the float.
Float was at 15mm.
So I adjusted to 18mm.
Went to start the buggy and it would not start. While carb was on I loosened the drain screw and NO fuel came out. I think it seats the needle too deep and does not let fuel to fill the bowl.
Took carb back off and set float to approx 16mm.
Started just fine plug did look still rich but hard to tell with used plug. Still had bog but much less than the larger jets.
Here is the vid of how it sounds....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Fow77rksio


Also FYI even though it was boggy, riding in the snow was FUN!

So I am guessing a carb rebuild is in the future??? Does this make sense guys?

Sounds a bit better. What smaller jets do you have? With the temp being so low, you might be fighting that as well. It is known to be a hassle when dealing with extreme temp changes and jetting, but once you get it dialed in cold, you know what to change next year.

I have from 116-140 in increments of 2.
Once it is good I will be happy and well aware of winter size.

Sounds like you are moving the right direction, try smaller still and see if it improves. I have a feeling with the ambient temp and elevation, you might need something closer to a 118-120.

Will do.... Tomorrow will hopefully yield better results. Will keep ya updated.
for now have to get the kids ready for bed then WALKING DEAD time.:eeek:

:dunno:Okay dropped to a 122 main and still had some top end bog.
Put in the 120 main and the top end bog was minimal to absent. Only thing is that a used plug turned whitish / lean. After driving for a few minutes it did bog down and die. Restart it apply the throttle and would die again. I even have a very large fuel filter on, thinking this might help the gas delivery.
Can I get false readings? I am thinking this is the case. Due to float level being too low.

yes, fuel level in the bowl being too low could give you problems in that you could be sucking it down faster than it can refill once you're into sustained full throttle. go to the 18mm recommended setting. as long as that isn't overflowing at idle, no need to set the floats lower.

I had to set the floats lower because the floats would sit up on an angle at 18mm and the needle seemed to not allow the fuel to fill the bowl. Maybe the tang has reached it's limit and I am probably needing a carb rebuild because that; I guess.

Hip hip hooray
 

:hooaray:
What a schmuck I am........:buttkick:
I had the pilot a/f screw closed the last run that is why the plug was white.
Left the 120 main in put a/f screw to 2 turns out and it ran great.
It did have very minimal top end bog but I rode it hard for 15 mins WOT and never died down on me.....
Plug did have a nice caramel tan color and..... I think I am done!!!!!!!!!!
Am I right to assume when the weather gets warmer that i would need to go to a larger main??? If so Then maybe the top end bog will be completely gone by then huh?
Thank you so much guys for helping me through all this. :banana::banana::banana::banana::hooaray::hooaray: :hooaray::hooaray::biggthumpup::biggthumpup::biggt humpup::biggthumpup:

You would most likely need to go leaner on the jets when the air gets warmer.

Boo!
Oh well at least I know I am close.
Just surprised my jetting is much smaller than most.

If you consider that your engine is 3% larger than stock, at these temps, the 120 main sounds about right.

Can't forget about elevation. Try your smallest jet still and see where you are, you should not have any bog at WOT, till it hits the rev limiter.

I remember Tom and Buggymaster stating that some carbs flow better than others, and some need substantially smaller or bigger jets to get them right. These are built by the thousands, and casting isn't always spot on or as developed as we would like to think. Do you recall what was in the carb originally? Maybe a 108-112?

Caramel is still a tad on the rich side, but you might be seeing residual from previous runs. Again, go one or two sizes smaller and check for that bog. I really want to see you get this thing right after all the mods you did.

Yes 108 was stock.
Tommorrw I will drop in a new plug. Do some WOt testing, check color if still to rich drop to the 118

If you still have a slight bog/surge, then you are still too rich. I would drop to the 118 and then pop the new plug in.

Update
 

Okay Put in new plug and 120 main is a little lean on plug color. It still had that very minimal surge at top end.
For poops and giggles I put in a 118 main and it ran like crap so much top end bog.
For now I am going to leave the 120 main in and test it again in 50 degree plus weather, since I am suppose to jet down for warmer weather. Hope spring time weather is where this jetting should be.

Both our dune 150s came with stock 114 main and 34 pilot. The screw is about 1 turn out. With a uni filter and stock exhaust on my blue 150cc buggy and a port and polish to clean up the casting flaws it ran best with a 117.5 main and 34 pilot. (This was before the 183cc big bore stroker) I tried a 125 first and no power then a 122 and still poor power and a sputter at wot. Went to the 117.5 and it was on. This was the motor before it was bored and stroked.

Just this last weekend I dropped the main jet in the 183cc a12 cam ported head 11k springs uni filter and fmf muffler with a 7/8th exhaust tail pipe from the 127.5 to a 125 with good results. The air temp was 78and we are at sea level, did loose some top end rpm but over all felt better. Then I decided to change the dr2 from 9/10 to 8/10 rollers and one of the exhaust studs pulled out of the head. :( Still ran it and it is on the money. Ran out of 91 octane but had 87 octane for the generator and it would start to crackle at high rpm and high load. It was the last day of our trip and wanted to feel the results.

As for jetting the 127.5 main would run great under load and accelerating but at wot for a long time it rand rough. With the 125 main it ran smoother from 1/4 to wot but a little loss of hard acceleration power.

I am trying very hard to get 100hp from a 10 hp motor. I think it is around 12hp a real 2 hp gain compared to stock.

As for spark plug color with the 127.5 jet at a wot 75 yard run then cut the key and gas it was dark brown/caramel color towards the electrode. I didn't get a look at it after the 125 jet because it ran so good. As for some of these big 130 to 140 jets I don't know how they would run? But we don't have the E85 as far as I know. Does the E85 require larger jets?

Yes E85 requires larger jetting.

One quick fix is to record an NHRA top fuel race on the MP3, put on the head phones then sink your acceleration with recording and pronto 8000HP. Works great for me.:banana::banana::banana:

I have just been using the 87 octane which does contain 10% ethanol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7ZjMNBAxD0
Quick video on a winter day as the CEO of my hospital is across the street shoveling his drive way. He probably thinks I am a loon LOL.
you can still here bog/surge a little on top end as I come back down the hill. Still hoping warmer weather will resolve this issue. Just have to wait and see.
Since the mods I did loose some top end, but it does have the torque I seek.
Still fun though:drive:

The snow looks like fun to ride in, the cold weather may be causing it to run like that but what do I know cold is 40 degrees to me. As for driving like a crazy man that is why we love these mini buggies.

Last weekend we went to the desert Sat to Monday and I changed the rollers on both our buggies three times each till I got the balance of top speed and take off. When I put the 9gram/ 10.5 gram rollers it would spin the tires and take off hard but top speed was 33mph. With the 10.5g/12.5g combo it was lazy and wouldn't get above 7400rpms and top speed was 36mph. With the 9g / 12.5g rollers it was much better but I forgot to gps the speed. Top speed on both our buggies is close to the same but my wife's 183cc buggy with my wife and son would win every time in a 50 yard drag race. About 150lbs lighter with just me in the red buggy.

Are you using the DR2 ? Or are you just mixing in a regular variator?

I had the dr2 with the 20mm large rollers on my red 155cc buggy with 8/9 rollers. My wife's blue buggy has dr2 with the 18mm normal size rollers with 10.5 and 12.5. I put the 20mm variator on my wifes buggy to see if it had a power advantage because I was always pulling away from every drag race we did. It does have a advantage on flat ground but the 18mm dr2 is better at hill climbing because it doesn't bog down when going up a hill. That is why it took a lot of changes to get it dialed in. If I was to buy a motorio dr2 it would be the 20mm version because it has a nice upshift and it hasn't flat spotted the rollers even after 3 years of use.

Nice, I should probably invest in one also.
New clutch and wheels and I am done with this buggy.