150cc gy6 carter talon issues (runs bad/switching fwd-rev)
 

Good Afternoon,

I have recently been having a lot of trouble with my cart and am looking for some experienced wisdom on the subject. As in the title, I own a carter talon 150 cc gocart/buggy that is a around a 2008 model (If it really matters I can find out this weekend). Up until this point it is completely stock besides a new carb replacement.

Shifting Gears FWD-REV:
It was having a hard time switching from FWD -REV and would click click click. I took the reverse gear housing (not sure on exact name) all of the planetary gears looked fine. It was almost as if it wasn't getting engaged/disengaged completely. Upon finding no visual problems (chips, missing teeth, metal flakes) between planetary gears and other gear components I pulled from the reverse housing I noticed that the gears did not move all that much when the shifter is moved. I adjusted the cable and now it manages but still has some difficulty. I have to completely stop, let the rps lower to a complete idle, then shift hard, give it a little gas, it clicks a about 2 times and goes into gear.

Engine runs very rough if i break 30ish, and its clanking/clicking
A few days ago after "somewhat fixing" my FWD-REV shifting i took the cart for a spin down the road. I hit about 35mph and all of a sudden the deep tone of my engine turned into a faint stutter and my chain was literally louder than the engine. I pulled over and had little response and the clanking,clicking sound very distinct from the engine case. I put it in reverse and the loud deep engine sound I previously had was back, but when I switched back into forward it was back to the faint stutter and intervaled clanking. I returned home and let it cool down. I lifted it up on a jack and started it, noticed that the sound was back to normal and I could rev it pretty high and it sounded fine. I took it out again and i hit about 20mph when it happened all over again. I went back and took the variator/clutch/belt cover off. I did not remove either of them yet because I am going to have to rig a tool up to prevent them from spinning so I can take the bolts off. The belt looks fine and the variator and clutch are still intact. no metal flakes, chips or any sort of abnormal visual outer signs could be seen. I took off the valve cover and it is super clean, but I could not get a good look inside yet as I need to remove the seat. Before taking it all apart it still had a distinct click/clank that was timely, not random.

I am more concerned about the second problem mentioned but the first may have had some cause for the second problem mentioned. If anyone has experienced this issue please let me know. I could really use some help.

In addition I have ordered:
-New Clutch Torque Spring,1.5K 1500 RPM Racing Performance because it is supposed to be replaced every 800 miles and the current is orig/factory.
-Performance 10g variator rollers because I expect the ones in there have a flat spot and are in need of upgrading.
-new intake manifold because the old one leaks and is dry rotting.
-new gasket for the variator/clutch/belt cover because the old is shot.
-EDIT - new 1500 rpm clutch springs


V/R,
Matt

second problem sound maybe like broken clutch spring/s. fwd/rev issue may be your idle setting along with a stretched cable, try turning it down a bit and adjusting the cable.

welcome myan

it def. sounds like trouble in the clutch, variator area. as far as something to hold the bolts from turning you can buy an impact wrench [electric] from Harbor Freight for less than $50. I bought one and it works great. I already had air type ones but also wanted the electric type too. so easier to pull out a power cord than an air hose.

Thanks for the welcome. As for your statement about the impact I have access to one, but I would still expect the whole assembly to turn as i tried to take the bolt off. I may be wrong, but I would think that in order to get clutch and variator off you have to have a method to keep them from turning when you try to take the bolt off. Thanks

Are you referring to these? Attachment 6936 I just ordered the 1500 rpm springs, they were on sale for $7 and free priority shipping :) So if a broken clutch spring is the problem Ill have the part and if not its just better performance.

Also while I was trying to get the clutch off i some how managed to knock the kickstart shaft out and it came loose. Attachment 6937 Ha ha. Is it pretty easy to put back in once the clutch is removed? Is there a specific alignment? Since its actually used to bolt the muffler to I wouldn't expect it to be that big of a deal, but i'm no expert!

You have a kick start or electric?

yes on the springs. pretty much just stick the shaft back in the hole in the side of the case, the side cover holds it in position. as far as impacts go, the speed and hammer hit of the impact will loosen the nut even if it does spin the clutch or variator a bit ... I won't toss down my anti-impact litany this time around. :yuck: :laugh:

It is electric start.

Ok thanks x-bird! I will finish taking it apart hopefully this weekend and let you all know what I find.

So, I tried every possible way i could find to get the variator off.... its not budging. Impact didn't phase it. I even tried racheting around it and that nut is on there good.

I removed the clutch, torque and clutch springs are fine. .... so my issue isnt being caused by either of those. .... I have expectations the stock rollers have a flat side. 1500 rpm clutch springs are supposed to come tomorow and I can put the clutch back together. Now I need to figure out how the hech to get the variator off.....

I dont know for sure ,but does it have a backwards threaded nut. maybe?

it also may have been lock tited on. may need to heat it with a small torch to break down the lock tite 1st.

I removed the variator, its not reverse threaded. No flat spots on rollers, no broken clutch springs. I replaced the intake manifold, rollers, torque spring, and clutch springs.

I took it around the yard picked up good at first not even two minutes in it is the same issue. It sounds really bad, and i have to give it a lot more gas than normal to get it to move.... no deep muffler sound, but its almost as if I can hear the gears turning the exhaust quietens down so much. I also had (prior to taking it apart) a little of oil on the bottom of the engine not sure if it was constantly leaking or what. Now there seems to be a pretty good amount of oil leaking out from somewhere.

You may very well have tranny gears problem then. We were hoping it wasn't that. But there are people here that can probably help you with that on here.

Can I get some guidance? Or where to start? I wont be able to actually work on it for about 2/3 weeks, but id like to get a game plan going!