New FL 350 Project
 

I did buy a Ford FL 350. In previous threads this is know, but just want to make combined thread. A few pics of it. Needs some work. But in all think the engine is sound.

Just having issues with it running Rich. But think I'm getting there. Think there is an issue with the choke. But realized the throttle cable was worn in the carb. So now I need to replace the throttle cable before doing anything else.

However, did notice after getting down and looking behind it. It looks as if the driver sides drive shaft is long than the other. I took a quick measurement. And would say it's an inch longer. And why the driver side tire is inwards. How big of an issue is this? Also, anyone know why there is cables tied to the rear members? On both side, and they tied to same locations. So I'm guessing it serves some purpose?

PPL brought up that I need to do a Leak down check, and compression test. I'm going to get a compression test soon. Anyone got recomendations on what brand or type works best?

Also read about the Leak down test. I got the idea, but still little confussing. :confused: Anyone got any links to a video, or discribtion of it. And even a list, or recomended parts to get a good seal? Is there such a thing as a kit to buy?

Just hoping to get it running solid for the season. So can play with it. Then this winter will start going into it more. Looking to make it more lower end, rather then top end. I dont need to go 60 mph. Rather throw some dirt around. :).

Thx

I love the Honda's but the parts are hard to come by.

tk is there a Harbor Freight store close to you?

the compression test kit they offer I bought one of about a year ago and it works great. It was very reasonably priced also compared to others. I caught it on sale and it was only about $20. Item # for it is 66216. If you don't have a store locally you can order one online and have it delivered. check it out and let us know when you get one and we can tell you how to check compression.

You lucky bastard..... You already have the Works shocks on the rear!!!!! ($500)

Where is the hose clamp around your intake manifold/carb?

Usually cables wrapped around the rear is an attempt to prevent the rear shocks from breaking when the axle u joints fail. The cables in your pic, don't seem to do that though.

You can rent a compression tester from an auto parts store, or get the Harbor Freight one.

Leak down test is simple. Use a little silicone and a plastic, aluminum, or steel blank to seal the intake manifold opening and the exhaust port air tight. Then install a vacuum pump on your pulse fitting coming off the engine (vacuum hose going to fuel pump) and pump 5" of vacuum. Let it sit for 10 mins. Note how much it drops

A ton of info is posted on line for you to view if you check out or sign up on the site. Out of respect for this site, i won't post it, but you can easily find it.

Just google Pilot odyssey forum

Got the 350 out this weekend. Must say very fun. And fast. But was limited on what could do. Since there was no brakes. So will be first thing I need to look into. Looks might just need some pads. At least in the back. Parking break is connected. And apears to be working. (But dont brake). Regardless if line needs bleed. Or master out. Shouldn't parking break engage regardless? Unless pads are bad? Am I thinking correctly?

One other thing I noticed. I got it out on dirt road a few times. And opened it up. Once I got to a certain point, it just died on me. Acted like it ran out of gas. Once it died. I got out. Hit the pull start and it fired right up. So I guessing it might be fuel filter.

But all in all. Had a lot of fun with it. Really didn't ride that long. Because of breaks. But what little I did. Can see why those things are really fun.

Parking brake should work, yes

Engine dieing at WOT is NOT GOOD!!! 2 strokers require fuel to cool the piston. When you run lean (lack of fuel) piston gets hot and erodes away. Classic sign of this is a hole in the top of the piston.

Make sure your fuel pump is up to snuff.

OK, thx Xlint. the way its set up now. It's just gravity feed. After market gas tank sitting above the engine. Why I'm thinking its the filter. Can tell the fuel lines, shut off vaulve, and filter looks like it's been there a while. So from what you said, I hope that it. Could the gravity feed setup not giving enough gas at WOT?

FYI. I bought the 350. From a person that only had it a few weeks. I posted in previous threat about a 350 for sale for $2700.0 and was asking if was good price. Let's say the 1st owner had done modes to it. He added a second intake to the air box like iI've seen on a few sites. Also he put stickers on the buggy. Outerwear pre-filters. Wiseco. (Not sure what that's for) and boyesen power reeds. And yes the work shocks. In the box of parts. There is a brand new 82mm piston, still in box. There is also a scared up old piston. With old pin and rings. There is also a extra head. Looks like in good shape. And there was a brand new throttle cable, which I installed before taking out.
Also came with a set of paddle tires. Front and back.

Not sure if this helps. But just giving that info.

Not sure if the gravity feed is sufficient enough to supply the carb. These came stock with a fuel pump, and one of the guys on the other board keeps driving home the point about the fuel pump needs to flow X amount of fuel per minute in order to keep the carb from starving at WOT. So I'm not sure.

Second intake hose is a common mod to allow the engine to breathe better. (Free HP)

Wiseco stickers would be the piston. 82mm piston is the last size you can go before you need to re-sleeve the cylinder. Just so you know.

Boyesen reeds are aftermarket reeds. (cheap performance boost)

Gravity feed is fine as long as the float valve is big enough.

The stock carb came with a pretty small one that would need to be bigger. Sorry I don't remember the size, I wanna say2.5 but that's a guess.

P.S Some people, including me, call the ''float valve'' a ''needle and seat''

Thx guys. That's helpful. Thing is, I'm not sure what size carb is yet. From what I understand, even with mild mods will require a larger carb. Or rejetted. Guess my next priority will be to make sure the fuel system is clean, and big enough to handle the engine requirements. Hopefully will work on it this weekend.
About the float valve. Now that u bring that up, that could be part of problem. When putting the carb back together, and ready to head out of town. Noticed the clip that locks in the float valve was laying on the table. I ment putting it back in, before we took off. But once u brought that up. Can't recall if I did. So be the first thing I will look at.
I want to take off gravity gas tank put on the yerfdog. And use stock one for the 350. I just would rather replace the fuel pump. It looks old as well. Got idea what size of fuel pump I will need? Or does it need to be specifically for the 350? Something special about it? Or aftermarket OK?

BTW. I'm just asking if you know off the top of your head. Or know a quick reference. I'm working long hrs hrs now. So hard to work on anything right now. Including research. I can look into more once I have the time. Again. If you happen to have an idea off top of your head.
Thx guys.

I believe they still sell a rebuild kit for the stock pump.

Yes they do, but a lot of guys prefer going with a new Mikuni single outlet fuel pump.

TK, get us some more pics.

Carb, clutches, exhaust please

K. Will do. Thx

Got the buggies back to town yesterday. Will take some more pics and look into the fuel. And BTW. I did find my clip. For the needle float on top of a shop table. Could that be my issue? The ninki that I worked on didn't have a clip on top.
Curious. So can go up to 82mm piston without re sleving. So does that mean the ring sizes get smaller but using the same jug? Or is there a kit that changes size as we?
And this might be a real dumb question. I still have my old go-kart I bought for me and kids years ago. Been sheded and still in good shape. Been looking what ppl are buying stuff for. And if I have a running go-kart. That they can drive off in. Can get $500 easy out of it. Money for parts. :).
How can you tell if engine is 2 stroke or 4?? I know. But just haven't messed with 2 strokes at all. And for life of me I can't remember what it was. Its all painted black. And all marking are gone on has tank and engine.

2 strokes don't have cams or a mechanical valve train.

Dude, really need pics. Not sure what "clip" you're talking about on the float valve (needle/seat)

82mm is the largest you can go, yes, before needing to re-sleeve the cyl

Rings are size specific to the piston. Usually they come with the piston kit, but you can also order them seperately if need be. 81.5mm piston must use 81.5mm rings, 82mm piston, must use 82mm rings, etc.... Trying to cut corners here would be a bad thing

More than likely your cart is a 4 stroker, very very few small 2 stroke engines. Lawn Boy lawn mower is the only one I can think of.....

2 strokers smoke because the oil is added to the gas either by premix (adding oil to the gas manually, or with an oil injection pump. That would be a seperate tank for 2 stroke oil to be added) 2 strokes normally have a large blistered exhaust pipe/expansion chamber. They also often sound like chain saws when running.

Sorry for not be able to give pics promptly. But only way I can get them posted is on my work computer. Right now we in middle of a move. And I refuse to setup internet until everything is done. Kinds seem to want to not help when they have games, and netfex to watch. So you'll half to bear with me. As far as clip. Yes, will just need to show u a pic. But can't do that til Monday, if have time at work to do so.

Not try to cut corners. The piston does have rings with it. But was wondering if just the rings and piston is good to go if need be. If need to buy a jug, or anything else, will do that. Guess my question was, does the stock pistons come with such over sized rings, that you can up grade the piston size without boring or sleving. .. guess I was not clear on that. Thanks for the info on the 2/4 stroke engine question. Its a 4. I thought it was. But wanted some kind of reinsurance that I was correct.
Thanks

You wont know if you need to bore or just hone a cylinder till you measure it. There is a certain amount of piston to wall clearance required.

Why are you asking about piston sizes? Thought the engine runs good?

Normally you have the cyl bored to run an oversized piston and rings, then it's honed.

finally got some pics. Was late in the afternoon. So some pics didn't turn out, or couldnt see due to the shade.
But here is a pic inside of the carb, and the cable was frade. replaced the cable. And a pic of the clip that goes on top. With the pin in, clip slides in, and locks on the outside of inner wall. Then the spring goes on top. Did NOT have time to take carb apart to put clip in. But will put it back Asap. So again, was asking without that clip in the carb. would that affect my WOT?

Pic of back of engine. Thought was a better pic of clutch, but was cut off. The yellow oil cap in the back. It says oil. But it's just a cap. No dipstick. What level do I need to keep it at? To the upper right. Is that aftermarket or what? Not sure what that is. Temp?

I'm guessing thats just stock exhaust. is it safe to run exhaust without the silencer? or does it engine need the back pressure?

One other thing. Had an issue starting yesterday.(BUT actually first time I've started it, since I ran it last when had the WOT issue) Ran for very little bit, Then acted funny. Got worse. Then died. Then couldnt get it to start. Very frustrated. So went to basics and checked the spark plug. (brand New). Looked OK. Cleaned it. Then tried to check spark. Son was not around, so tried to get a ground myself, plus pull start it. Didn't work so good. But noticed that I was getting a spark. But I know it wasn't grounded good. I got the (other new spark plug I bought) stuck it in, and on first pull started right up. Could the spark plug been messing up at the higher RPM, and causing my WOT issue?

Here's a pic of the 3. Didn't realize how much smaller the go-kart is compared to the others, until I got them side by side. But that little thing is a blast on a paved road. WOT, turn the wheel, you can slide sideways withou worry about rolling it. Spins kitties all day with it.

Yup you need the clip or the needle can move and change air to fuel ratio.

The gear box takes gear lube, there's a bolt on the left side almost even with the axle input, you take it out and fill it till gear lube spills out.

That sensor is your reverse sensor, it limits the engine when in reverse.

It would probably run worse with the exhaust taken off unless it's clogged.

Yes a fouled plug will make a 2 stroke run like crap.

Really wish I could get ahold of the guy that did the modes. So I know what's been done. And where to put my focus on. Don't have any spare cash right now. Hoping to take to auto zone and at least get a pressure test done. And if finished moving. Hope to do a leak down shortly after.

Gas tank says 20:1 mix. What I've been reading. Any modes added. Its better to go with 32:1. Can anyone confirm that? Also was brought up to keep your oil level, on the lower part of the dip stick. I'm questioning that statement. Is there a good reason to do that?

Thanks. Guess I'll half to get the clip back in. And give it a short test run with that and new spark plug. See if still have issue with the WOT. Still need to get brake pads for it.

As already posted, yes that clips needs to be installed. Most likely not your WOT problem. That little "C" or "E" clip on the needle that's just below that clip in your pick, where is it positioned? (that can have some involvement depending on it's location)

Looks like you have the Comet 94C "smooth cover" clutch on it. (good aftermarket one)

You really need to check out the service manual and the Odyssey specific web site for oil level recommendations.

Yes, stock exhaust. Must run a silencer. Needs backpressure and sound would be crazy loud without it.

Fouled spark plugs can be an issue. Also do yourself a favor and unscrew the spark plug boot. (yes, it threads onto the wire) Cut about 1/4" of the insulation back to expose clean wire. Then rescrew the plug boot back on. Sometimes that's poor connection

Thanks. Good to know that it has a decent clutch. I've been browsing the the manual. I guess I need to find another one. Can read it OK. But pics on manual, sucks. Hard to actually see where they are showing. See what else I can find.
I will check out what you said about the spark plug boot.

The c clip is in the middle. When I took apart carb apart to replace the cable. The c clip fell off. Was very lose. Couldn't tell where it was set. Default is in the middle from what I read. But might bring the clip up a notch. To see if it will fix it running to rich at idle. Then run spark plug check to make sure not running lean at higher rpm. But again. I still need to check out that choke. One positive. After changing the (new spark plug) a 2nd time. It purrs like a kitten. Throttle response is very good. But still won't run at idle.

C clip in middle is proper position from the factory.

Have you tried adjusting the idle air screw?

Warm up the engine and turn it 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time until you achieve your max RPM. That's usually the sweet spot. (more than 2 turns OUT usually requires a larger pilot jet, and all the way IN means a smaller Pilot jet is needed)

Yes. Have messed with idle screw. Its pretty much all the way in. And at times.. did get it to idle at very low rpm. So it might need a P. Jet. And I do have them in the jet case left with buggy.

However, I got reason to believe that the muffler on the exhaust might be clogged pretty good. Or really bad. With back pressure an issue, could that be a problem staying at an idle? I'm working on it now, what little time I have. So hoping to alive a few things if possible.
Thx.

OK. At this point, thinking I might half to lower the p. Jet. Just best guess right now. However, with muffler off, it ran very good at idle. Then slipped on muffler. Rpm went way down. Then finally died. I know there is a certain amount of rescriction, or back pressure that muffler will do. But wondering if the meffler restriction is to much.( It is the stock one. ) I'd really like to get it out side, so can see if still pushing gas out of carb. But its raining,.. why I got off early from work. :(.

All the way in is not good. Ideally you want to be 1 turn out on the idle screw.

If you feel the silencer is an issue, try and remove it. Then clear it out.

Another option is to modify an aftermarket Moto X silencer from a 250 or 500 to fit. (Smaller size engines don't have the correct size pipe)

Use a 32:1 mix. Thanks to much better 2 stroke oil then they had back in 85.

I assume you meant compression check, definitely a good idea. really should be the first thing you do before you ever rev the motor at all. A 2 stroke with low compression can cause you to lean out and melt a piston.

The oil is only for the balance shaft, not the crank shaft. Running it a little low wont hurt anything. I preferred to run mine full with a vented cap, it keeps it from forcing oil into the starter.

Thx. That's what I have been reading with the newer oils. Wow! And they not cheap either. Think its a Yamaha 2 stroke high performance that also came with the 350. Its got a $13.00 price tag on it for 1 quart. But surely not a place to go cheap on.

Not 100 % it is silencer. It never stopped raining. So never got to check if was spitting out gas from carb. At low rpm. I'm guessing If I am, then more likely the p. Jet.

I'm out of my buddies shop for while. He got a big project going on. So limited to my small garage. With piss poor lighting.

I'll look into that option for the silencer. With my friends tools, shouldn't be hard to make fit. The pipe coming out the exhaust. I'm guessing that's just a header? As long as its not cracked or anything, really no need to replace? Silencer, or muffler would be what to change for performance. Or am I off base at that?

Been looking at manual. And reading on a few things. Can the clutch system be changed. Such as like the gy6 engines.? To change to low end and top end of the band? From I've read, seems like there isn't much that can be done. But from what I see there is rollers in the pulley. So just curious about what options there is. Once I get these bugs worked out. And checked out. Might be first thing I will look into. If its worth it. Another question. Manual and ppl say that to keep system working good. Need to regularly oil the clutch and pulley. But manual doesn't go into where or how to oil. Do I take it apart, clean and lube? Or is more simple. Lubing the shafts. Nothing I've seen showing how.
This clutch, or drive system is also new to me. Just basicly worked with the gy6 CVT.

The pipe is a tuned pipe.

Very basic explanation is, the power band will kick in at certain a RPM. Changing the length and size of the expansion chamber will change where the power band kicks in.

There are different style clutches that need different types of maintenance.

Right ^^^^^^^

Leave the pipe alone. Just swap out the silencer/muffler. But try cleaning your stocker out first.

The Comet 94C requires little maintenence. Yes, you can buy different weight "pucks" instead of rollers to adjust clutch engagement

Weather in KS has sucked the last few weeks. Rain. So havent been able to do anything. Rain again this weekend. Got some rear brake pads for it. And again will try to get a compression test on it. Got a minki fuel pump ordered, so can go back to stock tank.

Starter is not working at this time. So with a compression test. I will need to give it a good 5 or 6 pulls? And correct me if I'm wrong. I will need to warm up the engine first for a little bit, before doing the test.

You check it till the needle stops going up. Cold is fine but have someone hold the throttle wide open while you pull.

K. thx liduno... OMG, its going to rain all holiday weekend. Move some stuff around, and add some light, just might spend it in shop all weekend. Limited on Money right now, but guess can work more on the minor stuff, and clean up some of the things I see can be done. anything under $10.00 :)

Id like to get the electric start to work. ppl have posted on that already. But do have question. option to drill hole in the dipstick, or find a fitting, and drill a hole in that. Then put in a nipple, and run a hose off that. Question from the nipple, does the hose run to anything? or just let it hang out, so crap dont go in the opening?

And when the starter is filled with oil, can you tell if it even trying to turn over? I'm really getting nothing from it. Find it hard to believe that all the mods done to it already, that this common know issue wasnt taken care of. Could be the silenoid I guess. or something else. its got a fairly new battery in it. So guessing at one point it was used recently. Saw on few forums that ppl would just keep the oil lvl to a lower point to keep it from filling up. But rather go with the other option.

OH ya. tinkered with it a little yesterday. I can not get the choke out of the carb. :banghead: Watch a few videos, and looked at manual. Nothing shows anything about disconnecting anything other than the nut on top. And should pull right out. But it's not. only other thing I can do, is cut the cable, so can get carb completely out, and find out what it's hanging up on. But that would mean I would half to get new cable and choke, before can take out again. So might half to hold off on that. At least if anything, will run slightly rich rather then Lean. But no reason to try and mess with the jets, until make sure that choke is working correctly. Anyone hear of someone having same issue?

One other thing I noticed. The front steering alinement was off. Was going to try to work on that. Then noticed that the passenger side front tire, is smaller than the drivers side. not sure how much that affects the alinement. but exsplains why it pulls while driving. So going to half to find something at least the same size. Anyone know where to look to find some used ATV tire/ or tires. Cant dish out for new one right now. Will keep eye on ebay. any other options?
Thanks

well, after many different searches, found a youtube video that might adress my choke problem. Sounds like the plunger is stuck. I guess they can get really stuck at times. 1 option is to heat up the area where choke is, and slowly work it out. really dont have anything to heat it up safely ...?? maybe wife hair dryer. Sounds like so much fun.

When the starter gets oil filled. They pretty much just stop working. I think it actually shorts out. The rebuild kist are cheap. Prob around $20 shipped. (Ebay)

Don't think a hair dryer would get hot enough to do anything. Although I don't think heat will do much anyways. There is a little rubber seal on the bottom of a brass "plunger". If it's stuck, there's either the rubber stuck to the carb, or corrosion holding the brass plunger inside the carb body.

Used tires are on craigslist for pretty cheap.

Now you're starting to see what I meant about these not being a "good deal". It's going to nickle and dime the crap out of you.

Well, at one point, I was going to agree with you, if hair dryer would work. Tried it a few times. setting the dryer on it 3 mins or so. Didn't move. Then realized that hadnt' put any lube in it. Most ppl reported useing PB, or wd40. I put a little 2 stroke engine oil in the choke. Let it sit for 30mins. Then started heating it up again. Put the dryer on it for about 6mins. When first pulled on it, nothing. So got a small hammer, tapped on it, and tried to move it up and down. It broke loose!! One more pull and it came out. :cheers:

Cleaned it up. Did notice some slight scaring on the plunger, and looked a little rough on the inside wall of carb. All my fine sand paper is still in a box somewhere. So cleaned best I could. Took a little 2 stroke oil, and coated the plunger and inner wall. It went back in OK, but not as smooth as would liked. So until I find my fine paper, and my dremel, going to keep an eye on it. Check it before I put it away, make sure it's not locked up. That being said.

Put the choke back in, and noticed right away there was no slack in the line, like was before. put carb on. and actaully backed off the idle screw 1.5 turns. Didn't give it any gas when starting it. In 3 pulls fired right up, and stay at a good idle. Also notice the carb wasn't spitting out gas anymore. :party:

Made a great difference on how it responds. And when back off throttle, doesn't smoke. Did notice that when letting off throttle, it took it's time reving back down. Not really slow, but slow enough that I took note of it. Maybe still to Rich?

Now I feel like I can actually tune the carb if need to. Today, im barrowing a compression tester, and see where I'm at on that.

Yes I see that it can nickle and dime you. But from the input from you and few others, was exspected. I dont mind. My next buggy I wanted needed to have some power behind it. For ME. was thinking about a sand rail. But way to big. And when this one came up, Locally. Seemed like was time to jump on it, if got it for a good price. Leaning curve is more than I exspected. But will learn. Just hope with min. mistakes. :)

The starter is 30 years old, probably needs a rebuild.

For the breather, I used a drain plug from a ford f150 radiator. NAPA had them on their help rack. I drilled a hole in it and put a hose on it, I ran the hose up the cage and then half way back down the cage.

I thought you mentioned the choke cable was frayed? If so, just cut it and get the choke working. You could try to soak it in marvel mystery oil.

Only use heat if you have the carb completely apart and clean, so you don't damage any rubber or plastic parts.

OOPS! Missed your last post..lol Glad you got the choke out.

It Was the throttle cable that was frayed. And has been replaced.

That would have been a better way to go. Take it all apart first. With the dryer, even after 6 mins. I could still pick up the carb, but was hot. Tryed to keep it focused on the choke area. stay away from the bowl. As far as I can tell, carb working very well. Will see down the road. Just glad I got it out, without breaking the cable, and plunger left in. Sounds like a nightmare to get out if that happens.

Thanks for the info. Just wanted to make sure.

This I know a supid question. But where is the hell is the dip stick located at? I looked at manual. the pic it has, sucks. decribtion is veg at best. I looked for it yesterday, while playing around with the choke. Couldnt find it. Lighting is very poor. I could easly missed it. had to keep it in the garge again, due to rain. Cant see worth a crap in it.

Front left of engine.

Ok, I was focused on the center of engine for some reason.

Well did compression test. Was between 130 and 132 at best guess, reading from gage. Did it 3 times to make sure. All same results. I know stock is around 139. So is what I got, good or bad?

Sorry. 132-135 test. Busy day.

I believe the stock psi should be around 142 at sea level.

You can lose as much as 20 psi depending on elevation. If you're a couple thousand feet above sea level then you're good to go. If you're at sea level then you're on the low side.

With all that being said, I would get the starter working and test it again. Use a fully charged battery and the starter. The reading may stay the same but it's worth trying with the starter before you put a new top end on it.

I'm 1500 roughly above sea lvl.
All I know, its a bitch to hand crack that sucker. And I'm no puzey. :)

As long as you don't have any vacuum leaks you may be good to go then.

Stock compression should be around 140psi, minimum allowable is less 10%. If you have over 126psi your good.

Thx guys. Good to know. But something else is up. Will look into more. But also time to get brakes on it.

Come on man, you know you can't leave us hangin.......

Spill the beans

Lol. Just not for sure. Seems like once I fixed the choke. The next time I fired it up. The engine got more noisy. Really not for sure if actually did or just me hearing thing. I did check balance oil lvl. Was just barely on dip stick. Wish I would have paid more attention. But think I put 3 or 4 oz in to get it up a normal lvl. That being said also now my clutch is not smooth as before. So I'm guessing that could be what I'm hearing. If I am hearing something its from the clutch area. I'm sure it needs lube. I've read about just lubing the bushings on the clutch. Again first time I've messed with this type of clutch. So not sure where to lube the clutches. I know manual has their own recommended lube to use. Can some one give me a recommendation that I can buy at a local auto store.
Thx

And best way I can describe the sound. Almost sound like an exsaust leak.

It might have just been me?????? Choke got slightly stuck again. Couldn't hear it from passer side. But once I got it fixed again, and did a walk around. Could hear it at idle. But once reved up. Couldn't hear it. Just the nature of a 2 stroke?

That's a difficult one to answer online.

Are you sure it's not an exhaust leak? If you have a rubber hose you can use it like a stethoscope. Listen at any seams and where the pipe is connected to the engine.

Well, I've ordered a new fuel pump and 3way vaulve. Been suggested that I dont play around with it, until I get the fuel issue taken care of. And to go back to stock setup with fuel pump. Which I planned on doing. Pulling the Spun take off, and going to put it on the Yerf. work on it a little while waiting on the parts.

it could be exhaust leak I am hearing. The 350 came with a Non working Digitron on it. It has a sensor that is tapped into the exhaust pipe just a little under head port. From what I've read, the sensor can pick if it's running rich or lean taking some kind of reading from the exhaust. When I found it, the clamp was lose. I could freely move the mounting bracket up and down. So tighten up best I could. But still not sure if the hole that was drilled for sensor, is sealed off good. Might half to take the pipe off, and just pull the sensor, and fill the hole.

At least have another buggy can play with, while messing with this one. It's going to be nice this weekend. So bad want to take it out. But pulled the spun tank, to make sure I wouldn't. :)

Anyone know, or have good idea, if I should put a good digitron back in it? (they worth the money)???? I was just going to put a trail tech in it. But the tech dont have a way to take exhaust readings. But digitron is almost 3 times the $$$..

Well this one on hold for little bit. Had issues with dog, so getting them done before my brother and his family comes in next week. Hooked up the stock fuel system. Used clear fuel lines so could see how fuel was moving. Looks like fuel getting to carb. But it won't start. Got to do some basic checks on things. But have been told that if carb was set up for gravity feed, and go back to fuel pump, then carb could be flooding out. Anyone come across this?
Thanks.

I know just enough about 2 strokes to get me in trouble, but one thing I do know is if you have a vacuum leak since the crank case is vacuumed it will not pull fuel into the cylinder and if a reed valve is leaking same thing. They have special gauges for checking 2 stroke vacuum. I had a customers with the same problem and it turned out to be the crank seals leaking so the crank case was loosing enough vacuum to where it would not run.

Fuel (spark plug wet?)

Compression (what's your compression with throttle open?)

Spark (do you have spark? What spark plug is installed and what is it gapped at?)

If you have all 3, then it must be a timing problem


I think the stock carb needs a larger needle/seat when using gravity fed. The guys on the other board can answer that better. If it's any question, just order a new set up. Prob around $20 shipped if that.

You might be on to something sycarms. I just find it odd that I had no issues until I changed out they fuel system. (At least in the starting area). Haven't changed a thing but that. I do have now the old gas tank for the yerf. Going to rig something up, so can put a quick gravity feed back on it. If it starts then. Means I've got issues with the fuel system. Or carb. Which might be what u said.
I do have spark. But can't say the plug is wet. But I do see fuel going into the carb. Something just isn't doing its job right.

Well, getting close to that time. And will start tearing stuff down, repairs, upgrades ect...
I'm going to do what I can in my garge. But would like to know a few things. Nut sizes. On FL350 are they all Standard? or Metric? or could there be both??? I need to get a set of open end wrenches.
Any other tools that would be nice to have, or save time in the end???
With the Yerf, it all metric. But can get to all the nuts, ect.. pretty good. the 350 looks as if be nice to have a set of open end.

Those were Homda products so they will be metric

Thx. Sycarms
It's finally going to cool down this weekend. But if rain is going to mess me up, remains to be seen. But think going to do multi task between the 2 buggies.
Thing that does need to be done yet on the 350 is leak down test. I have the freeze plugs. I found this Link on YouTube. Is leak down test that simple? And is it best to take engine out, or can it be done easily done while still mounted into frame?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdq7NRcUIp8

Thanks

I have seen several of those buggies but have not personally worked on one.I would think from what I remember about them that the check could be done in frame easily. You do want a clean engine though. If a leak is found you will have to make a judgement call as to it being easier to repair in or out of the chassis. I have done a few leak down tests on the small atv.s with repairs in frame.

Ok, well, guess will just half to see. I need to get starter pulled, and put in my starter kit. Got stuff ordered for the dipstick vent mod. More than likely will just pull the engine. But if leak down test comes out while, still mounted. Might go back an look at the fuel system first, before I pull the engine.

That video is different than what I've seen.
Most use the pulse tube to pressurize the crank case, I guess the rings might allow pressure to bleed through though?

If you do a pressure and vacuum check and nothing leaks, then there is no need to pull the motor, if you find a leak you would probably need to pull the motor.

Another thing I noticed in the video is it doesn't look like the guy was checking the crank seals for leaks.

He did mention you need to check all gasket areas, seals and bolts. Due to ring gap the air will find it's way around them to pressurize the crank case.

going to start posting more on this thread now, since working on it.
got the old aluminum gas tank mounted on it. Just really want to get it turned over and running again. However, not sure how the fuel lines was hooked up, when was running. Had 2 extra lines coming from the top, and from what can tell, went from alumin tank to like the over flow, or extra inlet from the stock gas tank on 350. Did the other connect to the pulse, line from the 2stroke? or should there still be a fuel pump hooked up between them? And does the pulse line, need to be hooked up to gas tank? Or does it just need to be closed off?
Seeing if anyone can give me help here.
Thanks

also, got some pics inside the jug. Looks like wall has some scaring. But not sure, how much is to much. It's like this in a few places, but most of wall looks good. But from pics, hard to say how bad they are. Just wondering if this normal wear, for a 2 stroke? Or should I look at putting a new sleve and pistion in it?
Compression seems good. But as a few other brought up, Need to test it using starter, not hand pull start.
Think just going to buy a new starter. I got a kit, but think just forking out money for a new one, would be faster, just to get the ball rolling on this thing.

I would just put your kit in the starter, doesn't take long. Put the armature in a drill press and while spinning the armature in the press dress the armature with 180 grit emery cloth until armature is bright. At the same time watch that armature is not warped (out of round). That scoring looks minor but you need to mic the cylinder to make sure it is in spec than hone cylinder. Replace the piston and rings.

It's been a few years..lol

If you're running an extra tank, wont one line go from the stock tank to the extra tank, and the other line will go from the extra tank to the fuel inlet on the carb?

The fuel pump that used to pump fuel to the carb, will now push fuel to the extra tank, then gravity will feed the carb from the extra tank. As long as the extra tank is above the carb.

There are actually 3 line out. Bottom line, gravity fed to carb. Then there are 2 outlets, or inlets on top left side. Those ones I'm curios about.

The pulse tube works the pump. Maybe you have a return line to the stock tank?

Just to confuse things more, the needle and seat for a gravity fed carb, is bigger than a needle and seat for a pump fed carb.

Yes. Have a return on stock tank. One line goes there for sure, from pics I took. Only other thing I can think of, is the other top line goes to the pulse.
I've heard that about pulse and gravity carbs. Is that why when I tried to go back to stock fuel setup, using pulse, it didn't work, because carb not right type?
I'll take some pics.

Other note:::
Holy cow, that starter is not easy to get to. Do I half to take break disk out to remove it?

That's one way to do it.

The other way is to take off the plates that hold the motor and gear box together, then you can tilt one or the other.[cant remember which]

A carb setup for gravity should work fine with a pump. A carb setup for a pump could run lean with gravity.

If you're running a pump on the lower tank, that's where the pulse line would go. The pulse is what makes the pump work.

I can't see a reason for it to go to the top tank.

Think of it this way. The top tank is just extra fuel, it uses gravity to feed the carb. The bottom tank has to use the pump to get the fuel up to the second tank.