New air filter... R2C Performance
 

The Yerf I bought has an ate up UNI Filter on it. I am thinking about reducing down to 1.25" and use one of these...

r2cperformance.com/go-kart-engine-air-filters

I like the idea of just blowing it out rather than cleaning, drying and re-oiling.

Any thoughts?

Well, I went ahead and ordered it. I will take pics and tell you what I think of it when I get it on.

New filter is installed.
 

I will have to post pictures tomorrow of the new filter installed. I have it on everything tightened up. Started it. It fired right up.

I might add that I was having hard starting problems which led me to clean the carb and look for a new filter.

Now when I start it, it is like on full throttle. I believe that I have everything hooked up correctly. The throttle cable is on fine and isn't opening it up when I start it. Intake is tight around the carb. Any suggestions?

Here are my pics. My phone doesn't have a flash so I haven't got a good picture of it installed on the engine yet.

The new filter is for an 1-1/4" outlet like a briggs carb. I got a piece of thin wall tubing at work. The coupler is the one that came with the cart and had the UNI filter on it. The other piece is actually and adapter for the Intex above ground pools to fit a larger hose for non Intex pool pumps/filters. I already had this piece. It fits nice a snug on the 1-1/4 tube and has a perfect 1-1/2 OD to fit the coupler.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8178/7...4c4fc767aa.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8441/7...1df8c9e347.jpg

This is looking inside the coupler from the end that would connect to the carb to show how nice my little adapter worked.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8179/7...0781524534.jpg

And this to show it from the outside...

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8460/7...a22c943c5a.jpg

Here it is all assembled.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8172/7...329fdaba26.jpg

Now to just get it running correcly...

Ok, any help getting the pics to display would be greatly appreciated. Nevermind, I figured it out.

cool looking filter, but does it keep dirt, and tiny particles out is the key point

According to the company it does. Also, you don't have to oil it. You run it, when it's dirty you just blow it out with compressed air. I think the company's website that I linked would explain it better than I can. I am hoping to get it tuned up and run it quite a bit this weekend.

nice let us know how it works for u, but i did realize u have to put another piece over the pipe to make it fit correctly

oh wait looked at the pics again thats because of the size of the coupler u have im guessing is to big

Yes, I put that adapter in there becasue the 1 1/4 tube I used was to small for the coupler that came with the cart.

I got it going. It runs pretty well. Still kind of bogging on full throttle. I am going to adjust the valves tonight and see if that helps.

The filter seems to be filtering. I have no way of checking flow and performance. I am just ready to start riding it and doing other upgrades as needed and money allows.

gotcha, if your bogging its ur pilot and main jet, by any chance have you changed 1 of them?? sounds like u have to much fuel maybe.

I bought a rebuild kit and put what I assume is a stock main jet in it as well as cleaning re-installing the stock pilot.

I am sort of thinking it may be running out of fuel in the bowl rather than loading up on me. I may need a larger jet. I am going to pull the spark plug tonight and see what it looks like. I may pull the needle and check the position of the clip. When I cleaned it I did not do anything with that needle other than clean it. My kit came with a new one and a new clip.

I'll let you know what I come up with.

The carb kit comes with a stock jet. When you replace the stock airbox with an open filter you have to rejet since you pull more air in. The only problem I can see with that filter is it is designed for running on paved surfaces. I see the filter clogging when running off road in dusty conditions. I would pull it and check the carb throat for any dirt especially after running on dusty dirt trails. The reason for oiling the filter is to trap the excessive dust particles which if allowed to be injested will act like sand paper in the cylinder and the guides. I use nothing but oiled filters but also use the outerware which is not oiled so when it gets dirty you just run under water if available and if not a good shaking will get most trapped dirt and sand out. Just make sure you check it frequently for some time cause it takes just a few hours to wipr out rings cylinders or guides. Let up know how it works.

Actually they make 2 types of race filters. Dirt track and asphalt. This one is designed for dirt track. The sales person and I discussed the application. Nonetheless, I will check that throat for debris and see how it is doing from that perspective.

I was directed to these posts by a few Buggy owners and asked to respond to questions.

The filter selected and pictured is designed for severe duty dirt/sand/off-road applications. The media is specifically engineered to deal with .3 micron dust and the efficiency is significantly higher than any oiled gauze.

Using ISO Fine testing, the R2C filter we're discussing exceeds 99.3% efficiency as compared to 94-95% for the gauze filter with glue (oil).

The restriction curve is much flatter than when using gauze. It's not unusual for an R2C filter to hold 3 times the dust while offering much lower restriction when loaded. The gauze is very poor in terms of the rapid restriction rise when even lightly loaded.

R2C filters are designed for compressed air cleaning from inside-out and are ready to go over and over again. Low restriction, much improved efficiency and dust holding ability, simple maintenance and No Oiling.

Please try one and let me know your thoughts.

Racing@r2cperformance.com

Thanks

Cool! Thank you for jumping in R2C! I don't remember who I talked to there but he was really helpful and knowledgeable. If you ask around I am sure this person would remember the buggy conversation. I work for an aftermarket type company as well in the drag racing market.

Anyway, thank you for clearing it up. Obviously your explanation is way better than what I could muster.

Severe Duty Filters
 

It's our pleasure.

We appreciate the interest and support. Glad to discuss any ideas, applications or new concepts the forum members may have.

Contact us at your convenience.

racing@r2cperformance.com

Ok, my needle did not have the clip. I had to pull a plastic retainer out of the diaphragm tube. The needle had 2 washers underneath it. I took one out.

It really needs a new main jet. I can drill the oneout that I replaced when I cleaned it. Any suggestions for size to go with?

First the clip holds the needle so when the slide moves uo so will the needle. If the needle does not move with the slide the problem you describe is caused by the missing clip. In most cases on a stock engine when eliminating the air box and replacing with a UNI or like and the exhaust has been opened up for better breathing the main jet would be a 125. But might not be correct for your location. The numbers stamped on the jets represent not a size but flow. So by drilling the jet you will have no way of telling how rich your going.

Hey woody can u give me the measurements of that filter. And how much was it.

Roughly measures 6.5" long from outlet to end. Wide end is about 4.5" narrow end 3.5". Outlet is 1 1/4" I'd.

All indications are that it is working great. I did pull the filter off this weekend and there was no visible dirt in the tube or the throat of the carb. I could see some specs of dirt on the outside of the filter, right where it should be.

I paid $30 for it plus shipping. For me the cost over the uni is worth it because I didn't have to mess with oiling it. Also the ease of cleaning when that time comes.

Thanks woody for the info.

You are welcome rebel!

I bought a 125 jet. Will put it in as soon as it arrives. Any suggestions for how many turns to start with on the mixture screw? Leave it as is?

! 1/2 turns out from fully seated position.

thanks. will give it a shot.

I neglected to mention that we do offer an 1 1/2" outlet filter that would eliminate the need for the adapter if it helps.

Thanks
R2C

racing@r2cperformance.com

I wish I knew that when I ordered. Oh well, I'm very satisfied with what I have. Could you go ahead and give us a part number for the 1-1/2" outlet filter?

The 1.5" outlet is not angled at 20 degrees. Is that a problem in these applications?

Thanks

It probably depends on the diameter and length. The uni's are straight at least the one that was on my buggy when I bought it. Send me one and I'll try it. haha.

If you have a photo of this installed, please send it.

We'll look it over and try to build a configuration that is ideal for this application.

We'll send a sample.

racing@r2cperformance.com

Here it is installed, not the cleanest buggy haven't had time to clean it up yet:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8041/8...a10af5850b.jpg

The new clean filter just makes your buggy look dirtier then it really is:lol::banana:looks good

Actually looks like a good fit.

Not sure what would happen if it was rotated clockwise so that the end cap was as high as possible. Would there be interference if it was longer?

Plenty of media area here to keep restriction/media velocity very low.

With an accurate idea of space claim, we could design an inlet too.

Is there anything mounted directly above the filter?

There is plenty of room above the filter. The only reason it is installed like this is I like the way it looked best, no other reason. Are you saying it performs better with the end cap as high as possible?

One thing you may consider is that my tube coming from the boot at the carb is really longer than it has to be. Which, if shorter would give more room for length and diameter of a straight fit filter. I can take some measurements, just tell me what you want.

@Sycarms, Thanks! I really do want to clean that engine up. But it is running pretty well right now and that is what is important.

No performance difference.

Just for additional filter size if necessary.

Just measure how close to the carburetor you can place the 3" open end diameter and then we can look at overall length beyond that. The angled outlet is fine if it helps the filter fit.

Sure is, a clean engine is worthless if not running.

True but a dirty engine runs hotter than a clean one.:laugh2:

Filter testing
 

How did the filters I sent work out SYCARMS?

Well between the busy holiday season and the end of the riding season events that I could attend I had not much driving time to valuate the filters. So one night I brainstormed and come up with this idea to test the filters under severe conditions which our buggies will never go through.

Any one who has ever used a bead blaster using Aluminum Oxide media knows of the fine dust produced as the media brakes down for if a recovery system is not used the room will fill with a dusty cloud in a hurry where everything gets coated with a light grey dust in a 20'X20' shop and even with a closed door my office will get a lighter coat for the dust seems to find its way through the smallest cracks. My recovery system is a shop vac in which I use the media revovery bag so as not to destroy the vac since even the hepa filter used will allow the fine dust through and into the vacume motor.

I made an adapter to reduce the 3 1/2" opening for the recovery duct down to 2" then removed the mesh filter and mounted the R2C filter to it. I then ruber banded a coffee filter to the end of the hose which connects to the duct. I then blasted 2 GY6 cases as well as two heads taking appx. 1 1/2 hours to do. The last 1/2 hour of blasting you can hear the vac's motor pitch change due to the filters restriction. After blasting I removed the hose from the duct and had no signs of media dust in the coffee filter. I removed the filter which now weighed about 3 pounds and tapped the filter getting the bulk of the dust off it before taking outside to blow clean. It had taken a good 30 minutes of blowing with 45psi to not see any traces of dust and the filter looks brand new again. So in my opinion I am really impressed with how this filter trapped the very very fine dust as well as how long it lasted but it did not tell me how it compared to a UNI or K&N filter so I duplicated the same test using each of them as well as a fresh coffee filter and pre filters over both filters.

The next piece I was to blast was a CVT cover, the UNI did not fare well for the filter was plugged before I blasted less then 1/3 of the cover. The coffee filter was no longer white with traces of oil and dust present. The K&N was better for I was able to complete not only the outside of cover but also the inside before it was plugged about like the UNI. The coffee filter had no traces of oil and I really had to look to find any fine dust particles.

Acessment
The R2C filter seemed to have less restriction as compared to the UNI and K&N filters all in their clean state. The R2C had taken on much much more then the UNI and K&N before getting really restricted. The R2C had NO signs of dust getting past it, whereas the UNI and K&N did. My findings find the R2C to be superior to the UNI or K&N using my extreme condition test. One more note, all filters used were the same dimentions except the K&N was the tapered type used. The R2C used no oil, traps more dirt and filters much finner particle then our buggies will be exposed to unless operated in a giant blaster.




TOM

so if i where to order one of these filters the correct diameter i need it 1 1/2 inch to mount on the pipe from the pipe i have from the uni kit correct?? and if so anyone have a link to where i can buy one the sponsor that sells them doesnt have the 1 1/2 inch listed un less its the 1 1/4 that i need.

Where to buy
 

I contacted the poster on here from R2C and he emailed me a paypal invoice to purchase. However, I am still waiting on it to come in. I thought it would have been here by now.

Be patient for I don't believe they currently fill this application and therefore make them up custom. I have from the testing I've done unscientifically been impressed with them, and hope to be stocking these filters soon for the 150cc and 250cc engines to start.:party:

Got mine in yesterday and it looks the part. Hope i can finally get this thing tuned in right with the jets and enjoy this new filter.

What size did u get and where did u purchase

I got the 1 1/2" outlet with 6" of filter surface area. Impressed with the way it looks. You can also get the endcaps in a metallic anodized blue and red, or real carbon fiber to match your buggy. I just contacted R2C on the board here through a private message. The longer filter i ordered ran me $34.95 shipped.

This filter looks like a new way for me !!! i would use an outerwear just to be safe. especially mud and water.. im from florida...Eddie.

OK, I am just getting back on here again from the looooonng winter. I let me daughter ride this winter on a warmer day and she got mud all over the place. We sprayed it off last night and some mud got on the outside of the filter as well as getting it wet. She ran it last night after that and the buggy ran fine. I was kind of wondering if it should have an outerwear on it to keep the mud and water off? Right now I am just going to let it dry and blow it out to clean and stick it back on. Just curious about the outerwear too.

This filter sounds promising.

Tom are you starting to stock this one yet?

My UNI prefilter has been starting to come off after a long run.

Just a heads up guys, you my have to rejet once you change to the R2C depending on how big of a filter you get. I bought one with 5 or 6 inches of filter area and had to rejet mine, as it was running lean compared to the UNI.

I need to contact them and get the ball rolling since I'm running low on UNI's and K&N's. I will contact them next week and work on stocking them. Although I haven't much run time on it, MB1134 is correct for I was running the UNI with my plug running a dark brown but with the R2C I had to increase the jet size since it was running a light brown with this filter.

Nice. Do you think an outerwears would be a good idea with the nature of mud being present on our applications?

It will restrict a bit but would aid with keeping it cleanner. On my 250 due to filter being mounted behind the seat I have had no need for one. I will be trying it on the 150 single which will hang out the back. I have run the K&N on this buggy for years and have used a outer ware on it simply cause oil is a magnet to dust. Have gone down some really wet and muddy trails and have never had a problem with much mud buildup on the outerware. For this reason I will be going with a strait filter so I'll be able to assess this issue after the spring and summer rides.