Light Upgrade
 

i got 2 new PIAA lights today for the buggy... i basically ran wires and hooked them up to a switch and hid all the wires with crinkle wrap... what do youall think?

i thin thats awesome i did that to my helix

the diffrence is amazing... as you can tell from the pics...

Wow! That looks awesome! What do those bad boys run $$?

20 bucks for 2... a buddy of mine was tradin in his truck and was takin all the lights and stuff off of it... i got a ton of stuff of 100 bucks... he was on the fire dept... so i got all kinds of flashy stuff :)

Hah! That's awesome!

yah !

i wish we had some

me 2

i want to ad a couple more headlights to my hh250ss. the stock battery is rated at 10a/hr. the stock lights are 35w each and use 2.93 amps ea. what are some suggestions without an overload? maybe a couple par36 work lights? they are 35 watts each and draw 2.93 amps also. i've heard that the 55w hologen would be too much....:dunno:

Hmmmm...I can't imagine that it would have a problem with those on there.

i wouldn't think either as long as i didn't run them all the time. i planned on having the two additional lights on a seperate switch with an in-line fuse. what do ya think?

funindamud,
do you know what those lights are rated at? watts, amps, lumens, etc?
the difference is amazing in your pictures and that's exactly the extra light i'm looking for. where are they available?

The 250 has a massive stater and should handle the 55 watt no problem, but I would upgrade to a larger battery such as one for an atv or motor cycle, they will be the same width and length but about 6 1/4" high. This will give you the battery capacity so your not running entirely off the stater. TOM

thanks tom,
so, just to verify, i should be able to run (4) of the par36 lights (35w,2.73a) on my buggy if i go to the ATV battery? i've looked at the 55watt lights but they seem to use more amperage. i wasn't sure if i could get away with that. maybe (2) 35w and (2) 55w? .....lol yea, i know, quit asking so many damn questions.:confused:

sorry, one more statement.
to sum it all up, i want to run (4) lights on my buggy. i want the brightest light with the least amount of amperage draw. i got a couple LED light from work because they draw a lot less amps but they just don't do the job.

HID lights kinda high $$ but are the brightest with the least amp draw.

http://www.zaib4x4.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id=5715

I currently run 2, 50wat and 2, 35wat on my blade 150 with a 10 pole stator the 250 had I believe 12 pole with a lot more copper winding, this is the same type stator used on the Honda Helix scooter. The 250cc stater will put out more than the 10 pole 150cc. Many 250's have high/low beam headlights which will draw 50 watts on high beam. Now I wouldn't go as far as 2 sets of 50 watt lights for this would be too much. Two 50 and two 35 is acceptable. TOM

thank you very much tom.:)

I did some thing similar to that. look in my pics. I put a light bar on the top of mine.

sycarms, you mentioned that you run (2) 35w and (2) 55w on your buggy. can you tell me what light pattern you use? there a few to choose from and i can't make up my mind. there is the spot, work, driving & flood patterns. i want to see out in front obviously but don't know if the spot will be a wide enough beam. the flood seems like it would light it up around the buggy but nor too far out in front of you. maybe a combo of both....what do you run?

All my lights are driving. TOM

A lot of off roaders use two types of lights, floods and spots.Think of the two sets of lights as high beam and low beam. Normally one set is mounted low for illumination around the buggy [low beam, floods] your able to see into turns and details of the trail. A second set is mounted high on the roll cage to illuminate out ahead of the buggy, the higher the better for range [high beams, spots]. You adjust the lights so the high beams pickup where the low beans fade out. you don't want a shadow section between the light patterns. The high beams are on a second switch so you can cut them out just like dimming the lights in your car. Otherwise you blind oncoming traffic or while your in a campground or a illuminated area.

well, for now i got a pair of square halogen (55w) lights for the cage and used a pair of 4" round (19 diode) LED lights on the front. i stuck with the LED because they only draw .4 amps per light so i don't need a battery upgrade at this time. i wired them right in with the original headlamp switch so down on the rocker is just the LED's and up on the rocker is all 4 lights. worked out good with less wiring. here's some pics.

Looks great, you getting enough light now? Have seen the led lights but wondered how bright they are. TOM

Tom,
the two main reasons i'm using the led's are because of the amperage draw and because i get deals every now and then managing a dealership parts dept. the lights were a "freebie" from one of my vendors. if i had to buy them, they would run about $35 each. the vendor i use makes the lights themselves and they have a patent on the design. it's a little different than a grote or trucklite brand. the diode actually faces down inside a reflective lense instead of facing outward. this way you get a stronger, brighter light pattern. they have 19 diodes where as other brands use less than 10. they do a pretty good job of forward lighting. when i get a chance, i'll try and post some pic's of the lights at night.

dave

tom, one question i overlooked. with me wiring these halogens in with the factory wiring and switch, do you think i should run an in-line fuse on them? i looked at the manual/wiring schematic i have for the hammerhead but it's hard to tell where the breakers/fuses are and what they actually run. the halogen are drawing about about 2.5 to 3 more amps than the OEM headlights.
DAVE

Most of the buggies I have worked on use only one fuse which protects the stator basically. I have gone thru my personal buggies and installed fuse strips under the dash for protection of the acessories added eg. lights,horn,accy port for cell,ipod ect. TOM

thank you, i'll install an in-line fuse for the light.
DAVE

the saga continues......
i'm trying to read my hammerhead wiring schematic and that thing is so fuzzy it will make you go blind but as far as i can see, the black wire is the hot going to the headlamp switch. it looks like it's split on the switch with two black wires/spade connectors for the hi/low operation (one each). I'm assuming this because the hot going to the cigarette lighter/power source is black. anyone that has access to a HH250ss wiring schematic.....double check me and let me know if you agree before i start hacking.....:confused:

Your manual should have a schematic. Or you could contact hammerhead for a schematic. You can also check for hot with a test light or volt meter. TOM

i contacted hammerhead to find out some info on my stator. i was surprised to find out that the hh250ss part number (172MM-032000) stator has 18 poles!! he also gave me a rating of 2-3 ohms but i have no idea if that's good or bad. :dunno:i assume my dilema with adding lights should be over and i would be safe with (2) 35w headlights and (2) 55w driving lights. i already have the 12-BS battery so i guess i'm good to go.
:banana::banana::party: