My Yerf dog 3206
 

I just wanted to thank everyone for sharing their tips/tricks/advice on this board for helping me out without even having to ask many Q's. All of the answers are right here if you look for them. :hooaray:

Anyways, figured I'd post some pics of my recently brought back to life Spiderbox. As well as some upgrades.

EDIT:


How do you guys post pics??????


I get a fatal error message when i try to upload pics from my computer. :banghead:

I use photobucket to post pics here.

you need to resize them down to an acceptable file size. 428 x 640 is the common "web page display" sizing.

Lets try this....

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy052.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy066.jpg


http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy067.jpg



22/11/8 Kenda Dominators in rear ($50 ea)

20/7/8 Deestone knobby tires up front ($36 ea)

BMI billet 1" hubs ($36 ea)

35W Projector driving lights

The spindles Godfrey should have built....

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy055.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy056.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy053.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy054.jpg

5 - 1/4" reinforcements added to each spindle.

4 "gussets" and 1 plate added to front of spindle.

1/4" plate added to stock Yerf Dog "A" arms, still using 1/8" BD fender washers. Short grade 8 nylock washers added.

1" bolt used for spindle.

Front end reinforcements.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy058.jpg
http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy052.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy057.jpg


"Box in" bulk head support with 1/4".

Added 1/4" gussets to bulk head support.

2 X 1/4" plate (1/2" thick total) to the front of the bulk head. And 1/4" added to the rear.

1/2" bolts used to assemble bulk head to frame/support (4 bolts near A arms)

3/8" grade 8 bolts used on tube to bulk head (top 2 bolts)

Mods

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy052.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy059.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy060.jpg
http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy061.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy062.jpg
http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy063.jpg


35W projector driving lights added

Modified H8 bulbs to fit in H11 light housing

Toggle switch added for lights

T bracket added for carb/extension support

1" ID FMF silencer ($24 Ebay)

More mods still...

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy064.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...9/buggy065.jpg


(Ebay $30) Blaster shocks with mounts re-welded upsdie-down.

I like pic # 12, your air filter hanger... may copy that one ! What are your front tires ?
found the front tires... 20/7/8 Deestone knobby tires up front ($36 ea) - where did you find these ?

Ummm did you sneak into my garage and chop those of my a-arms sitting in the corner? :lol:

On the right side of the photobucket page under "links", if you highlight and paste the one that has image code --- [img] it will display the photo directly in your post without having to jump to your p-bucket folder to view it.

looking good :biggthumpup:

Nice works, looks good. :biggthumpup:

Those are some HEAVY DUTY spindles!!!!!Nice job.

Looks like it's ready to take a beating.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20X7-8-D-929...item5ae2b9d153


I was able to pick them up which saved me shipping costs. :D

Thanks for the heads up on posting pics. :hooaray:


Spindles are heavy duty to say the least now..... :biggthumpup:

I'm putting her through it's paces, that's for sure.....

Actually tipped her over the other night while making a hard left under heavy throttle..... :lmao:

So what do you guys think is my best choice for new front shocks?

I'm REALLY leaning towards these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400256917665...84.m1423.l2649


3/4" taller than stock and adjustable. Seems to me they should be soft enough since they're meant for a 50cc bike. And half the price of BD shocks SHIPPED...

When i went shock "hunting" i stayed away from anything with that type of adjuster on the bottom and that cylinder diameter. Reason being is that i think all of those are just springs with no air or oil damping. Other than length, their performance is likely not going to be much better than what you have.

shocks
 

Since I don't see "oil" in the description, I'm trying to figure out how they are different than the stock shocks, other than 11". If that is true, then these are 1/2 the price. http://www.*************/item/Mechani...-11-05629-5471. I had a pair of these left over from another project, put them on the front, did not notice any difference.

front tires
 

Cool ! Thanks ! I like the narrower tire, hoping they will fit until I can afford the longer front spindles.

if you decide to go with this type, I have a used pair that need bushings, they'd be yours for the shipping.

I was hoping the chrome rod inside the spring meant oil dampened.

Maybe I'll send them an Email asking about them. Thanks

I think you are wise to check on that because they look to me like spring only and not oil dampened.

I like your mods, you are doing a nice job!

They responded with " they are oil shocks"


I MIGHT pull the trigger on them.....


Thanks for the compliments guys.

Just a FYI.....

Wheel spacers like this kind do NOT work with 8" rims.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-1-5-Whee...item2319d24087


Don't ask me how I know....... :(

I think I posted these in another thread but they should work... http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ATV-Wheel-...#ht_937wt_1163

Ohh yea, it was you who madmax (from the other forum) suggested the others too also, I was gonna go with the ones you bought first, untill I saw the ones he posted. I'm going to get a set ordered tomorrow, I'll let you know how it goes. What are you gonna do with the ones you have now?

Did some more upgrades..... ;)

Fenders

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...fenders001.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...fenders002.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...fenders003.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...fenders004.jpg


Axle reiforcement and stud extensions/wheel spacers


http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...fenders005.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...fenders006.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...fenders009.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...fenders008.jpg


16" Polaris snowmobile shocks



http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...fenders007.jpg



Profile photo


http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...fenders010.jpg

Looks good man! I still have to put some grubs screws in my hub/axle reinforcement. I got my spacers in also I went with the 3" ones they worked out great. Where did you get your plastic for the fenders from?

I guess next you have to get a reverse installed!

here is a pic of the rear stance now.

Got a foot of 1" I.D. with 3/8" wall pipe. (HEAVY DUTY $h!t)

Drilled one end 1 1/8" X 1/2" deep to recieve the hub

Drilled and tapped the other end for 3 set screws.

Installed the pipe

Slid the hub into it and secured axle nut

Tack welded it in a couple places

When happy, I welded it up good.

Hope this helps prevent the broken axle issue.

Yeah ,I went with the 3" as well.

I got a ball bearing spring base from Tom the other day and decided to experiment with it as well as the NCY spring and the Kidnme shorty clutch I have sitting around.

What I found was somewhat interesting.

First off, the aftermarket spring base compresses any spring because of the height of the bearings and the additional bearing "race" if you will approx 9mm. I have read an increase of 15% is added to the spring rate because it's slightly compressed.

I took all measurements from the engine case to the edge of the clutch pulley "lip" when fully pulled back by hand.

No spring no clutch the pulley fully extended to the "stops" 46.5mm

Stock base shorty clutch NCY 1500 RPM spring 46mm

MRP base shorty clutch NCY 1500 RPM spring 45mm

MRP base shorty clutch stock spring 42mm

Stock base OEM clutch stock spring 46mm

Stock base shorty clutch stock spring 45mm

MRP base OEM clutch stock spring 42mm


The additional height of the MRP base causes the stock spring to bind.

With the NCY spring, this is not the case.

The OEM spring has 1 additional coil in it that the NCY doesn't. This obviously makes all the difference.

I could tell the clutch pulley/sheave does slide nicer with the bearing base. I'd bet this makes for a smoother feel while shifting.

However, the additional spring compression from the MRP base with the 1500 RPM made it really difficult to move by hand. I would think the 2 combined should be closer to a 2000 RPM spring.

So I'm going to see what a 1000 RPM spring with the base gets me. I'll bet it's closer to the 1500 spring, but with the nice smooth shift I'm looking for.

So, in conclusion, I would not run this spring base with an OEM spring if you are looking for top speed as the belt may not reach as far down the pulley as a stock set up would.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/.../spring085.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/.../spring086.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/.../spring087.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/.../spring088.jpg

great stuff to know, I think with my 1500 rpm spring I'm good enough! lol don't plan on racing and when I'm on the trails I can't feel anything but bumps anywayz lol.

The spring rate and shimming adjusts your CVT downshifts. As you go to a stiffer spring or taller shim, it will pull the belt up the pulley faster when you are off the throttle.

Put heavier rollers or sliders on...

The spring binds before the belt can make it all the way down the pulley.

ohh, didn't know that... about where is the stock spring rated on the rpm scale? would it even be worth upgrading to a 1000rpm spring?

Xactly!!!!!

Not too sure, but the 1000 RPM spring WITH the ball bearing spring base (smooth shifting) I think will equal a 1500 RPM spring with the stock spring base.

I guess the rpm rating of the spring is a figurative number, I have the 1500rpm spring and I don't get clutch engagement until about 2300... I figure with my weight on the buggy it takes a bit longer for me to feel the grab. Tomorrow I'll go out and get an exact number.

T.J.

The main spring controls downshift rate and belt tension. The clutch arm springs control clutch engagement RPM. Variator weights (rollers or sliders) control upshift rate. None of these components change your CVT ratios.

You know what, your right, and that's what I meant! lol, I have the yellow 1500rpm clutch springs as well, as the 1500 contra spring.

I was wanting to know why they would call it a 1500rpm contra spring when it has nothing to do with RPM's?

and your right none of them change the CVT ratios for the most part.

Technically your ratios CAN change by swapping these components:
1. If you get main spring bind, it will reduce your CVT range - That's a poor choice in springs.
2. If your variator weights are too light, they will never push the belt to the top of the pulley - Again a poor choice in weights.
3. Using slider weights instead of rollers allows greater range of the variator pulley due to their shape (plus sliders last longer).

The main spring really should not be rated in RPMs, but it is a measure people are accustomed to when dealing with clutch arm springs. As long as you know the heavier the spring the quicker the downshift and tighter the belt, it doesn't matter what linear measure they use.

BTW: Clutch engagement RPM is based on how fast the clutch is spinning and not directly the engine speed. Since you can change CVT shift rates by changing the variator weights and main spring, you are also changing clutch engagement at different engine speeds.

That sounds about right GX150, the variator would be spinning faster than the clutch during engagement because of the ratio at that point.

When talking tunning of the cvt there is more to it then most realise. I like many others for years relied on others results. Polini and Malosi will tell you to change the torque spring only when the belt slips, not very scientific with buggies anyway. One thing is for sure the main purpose of the torque spring is to coordinate the clutch pulley with the variator. One night I googled tunning a cvt and come across 2 college grads synopsis on tunning a cvt. One grad fed into his computer the weights, dimentions, and, psi specifications then changing one or another spec to come up with his different results the other had the aid of not only the computer but also a dyno. These reports are so calculius you would think it was rocket science. I won't lie and tell you I understood everything but what I did get out of these reports were the torque spring basicallly controls the belt slippage. Pulley diameter, roller weights, weight of vehicle, tire size and weight, anything that affects the rear wheel HP will determine the proper torque spring to use. What the spring #'s are suppose to signify is a 1000 (stock) spring will engage 1000 rpm over minimum engine rpm rate. Minimum rpm rate is the minimum rpm the engine can idle without dieing. So if say the minimum engine idle is 400rpm the spring should start compressing at 1400rpm. This I am told is the measure used to rate the springs. Most of us started with lighter rollers and a 1500 spring but as you mod the engine and producing more HP the springs and or rollers will also need to change. Also it will depend on the type of ridding you will mostly do. True a stiffer spring will downshift faster but the more important thing is when you let into it again the belt doesn't slip. Belt slippage is the main result for variator face grooving and roller flat spots since slippage will very quickly heat up the cvt. To sum it up unless you have a dyno it will be a trial and error. Taking the suggestion of some one else as to what combo is right is a great starting point but then it is trial and error. I agree with GX150 on all but one point, that is slidders last longer than rollers. It depends on the material used and of coarse the heat of the cvt. A worn roller is easily judged by its flat spots however slidders wear as well on their flat slidding edges.< Are slidders better than rollers? Is dodge better then Ford?>( Its all a matter of ones prefference, thats my opinion and I'm sticking to it):biglaugh:

Given that the material is equal between a roller and slider, the slider weight will last longer because the additional surface area distributes forces and wear across it. The down side of sliders is additional friction in the ramps against the slider surfaces resulting in slower CVT response to engine speed changes.

Everyone's usage will be different, but I replaced twice as many rollers as sliders until I went exclusively to sliders. My riding is either tight technical trails or loose open sand on elevation variations - Both require high levels of torque, but the sand demands it almost constantly. I rarely have level hard packed fire roads where I can just cruise and hold partial throttle over any distance.

Man, I think my new Keihin PE 28 is a bust.....

Can't get that thing to run worth a crap.

And every time it craps out, or you shut it off, gas spits out the air holes in the front of it and the main jet.

Hell, the last 2 times I watched it, it made bubbles inside the carb throat. That's telling me that air is trapped inside of it?????


Put the stock carb back on with the NCY head, and it's moving right along nicely.

Think I'll be looking for another performance carb. Maybe a 26mm or a 30mm pumper???

Just pi$$ed that I wasted $50 that could have gone towards something else. (maybe it's a chinese knock off?)

Unless you have Stroker cranks and 63mm big bore kits installed etc... you don't need anything bigger than the stock carb. Just re-jet and you'll be fine, all that extra carb still doesn't have the displacement to move anything anywayz.

I disagree. There's alot of restrictions in the stock set up. Air box, small intake manifold, small ports in head, small exh pipe, and stock muffler.

Once those are eliminated/replaced, you now have the ability to move more air.

I agree with T3beatz I ran a 30mm for a while (jetted & re-jetted) and went back to the stock carb. Performance was better with the stock carb as it turned out!!!!

Yeah, but even after you upgrade most of the things you listed, the stock carb can provide enough umph to run the buggy.

and again I understand what your saying, there are a lot of restrictions, correct, but after addressing a few of the restrictions you listed a simple re-jet will still suffice.

Also who's to say the stock carb is moving it's maximum amount of air through it when doing some of these mods? the restriction lies a lot in the jetting when doing most of these mods.

Most guys don't even go that far into upgrading the engine unless you have tons of $$ to throw away, after doing all those upgrades you might as well have bought a 250ccc engine and swapped them out.

I just ordered a Mikuni VM 26 606. The stock carb hits the crossbrace on the swing arm. Heard good things about this carb and parts are easy to come by.
As for the roller bearing in the clutch, Torrington makes flat radial needle roller assemblies that are much thinner than the MRP piece.

The VM26 is an excellent choice. The others are correct in stating that a 30mm & 32mm are too big. My 150 has a 30mm but it also is a 207cc with a wild cam. I,m sure I'm even overkill with a 30mm since I instruct and also experienced on a 250cc with big bore kit and large grind Harley House cam in a ported and polished head, the stock carb performs better then either 30mm or 32mm carbs will. too big of carburation will hurt performance. I know of several running the VM26-606 on their modded engines and they perform great.

What mods had you done to the engine?

Sure the stock carb can run the engine, but when trying to squeeze maximum speed out of it, you want the maximum air flow possible. Not to mention other carbs offer a bunch more throttle response over the CV. So it's not just bigger is better.

This is a good read

http://www3.telus.net/MyScoot/CVcarb.html

As for the numerous engine mods, you are correct. But, you can do many of them in due time. $100 here, $100 there type stuff. You don't need to drop a small fortune for a new engine. And lets face, even if I had a 250, I'd be doing the exact same thing to that motor. It's just the way gear heads are.... :biggrin:



I've been leaning towards that carb lately too. It appears the VM 26-606 uses a 24mm throttle plate, and may be the reason guys are having success with it on the 150?

Tom take it for what it's worth, but that link I posted says the 30mm CV carb is about equivelent to a 26mm slide? If that is true, that is why that may be 1 of my viable options.

Where to buy parts?
 

I am new to this site. I have some repairs that need to be made to my Helix 150cc buggy after my son and nephew rolled it yesterday. Does anyone know where I can order these parts from?

Even though the article stated that the VM26 may have the same venturi size as the 30mm, this is still like comparing apples to oranges. If you go back to the part he says that the 26mm stock carb has a 22mm opening @ the air filter end this is done to acheive the most efficient air flow so as to properly and efficiently operate the slide since it does operate off the preasure differentials. The slide carb is a totally different animal since the slide is a manual process. For performance purposses the slide carb is always the better way to go. Now a VM26 on a moderately modded engine will as well be too much carb. It all comes down to how many CFM's the engine will produce. Why this is not done on the powersport side as in the automotive side I really do not know but I'm sure there is good reason for this. The fuel delivery of any carb is determined by the amount and volume of air the engine will suck. Put too big CFM or MM carb on the vehicle it will hurt performance. My son has a 200cc stroked engine with 4 valve head and we found that a stock carb wasn't enough, the 32mm was too much but the 30mm fit the needs just right. I can go on for hours and prefer discussing rather than typing, but there are correct and incorrect ways to mod an engine. Many go by the hype and mod the incorrect way wasting money in the end. If we all had access to a dyno and flow bench we could make a near perfect decission on what works best with what, but I don't think most of us have that access, so we find our way by reading many articles on a specific subject then it is trial and error. One thing is for sure, a cheap build costs more in the long run, and please don't mistaken this for a prudent build cause the pendilum swings both ways you can put a bunch of money up front into an engine and still come nowhere near the results for the money you spent.

Give me a call Monday I can get what you need. Buggymaster members get a 20% discount off the ASW retail. Welcome aboard.

662-301-1563
tom@sycpowersports.com

I somewhat agree... I find that my carb has pretty good throttle response especially for my type of riding, and I guess that's what it comes down to. I'm not racing so I'm not looking for maximum speed I just needed a little more torque, and the simple mods I've done have gotten me that. I rarely drive on pavement so speed is not an issue.

Now if you could put a manual tranny on one of these you'd probably get a ton more of speed and low end power you need, but sometimes it's just not worth it.

My point is this, looking at the mods you have listed for your buggy anything larger then the stock carb would be a total waste of money and actually hurt your performance. Serious engine mods must be done before looking into a larger carb. Not everybody who wants speed just rides on a paved surface. I ride the trails and if not a strategic trail and just a run of the mill trail thru the woods without a lot of ruts I'll run 40 easy and sometimes reach 50 if a long enough stretch. Your correct with the transmission. The cvt really limits these buggies. I had a 50cc cycle and in 4th I got up above 50mph and there was still more but it scared my old %ss. Now if we had a 4 or 5 spd. tranny behind our 150 with a stock engine, speeds would be greater and have more low end.

I guess I'm a bit confused then. When we had spoke on the phone and I told you what all of my mods were going to be, you didn't seem to have an issue with my carb choice at that time?

UNI filter
Keihin PE 28mm carb
30mm aluminum intake manifold
NCY ported head
A11 cam
NCY 58.5mm ceramic/nicasil cyl piston combo
FMF slip on exhaust

In your opinion, would this be enough to warrant a VM 26-606 carb?

The 606 has a 24mm throttle plate acording to Sudco

http://www.sudco.com/CatalogJPG/104.jpg

Yeah, The fastest I could get up to on my trails are about 23mph... I'd think 27mph is about how fast I'll get at St. Joe on the flats and on the trials 20mph, if even that.

I talk with many many people each day so I don't always remember the specifics. Your ported and polished head is going to make all the difference since it is allowing so much more air/fuel to be drawn into the engine to fill the cylinder. I do know some who have used that carb of a stock lightly modified engine which would give then better throttle responce but is still too much for a stock engine. As I said in previous post since we don't have the access to a flow bench or dyno most of what we do is by the seat of our pants. I believe the later Carter SYM motors used a 24mm slide but that was a stock engine. I am still using the CV carbs on my buggies, and as I said earlier comparing a CV to a slide is like comparing apples to oranges. With the mods to your engine I feel the VM 26 606 would be the best option, the 28 may be a bit too big though. I know this for sure in that setting up a slide carb is more picky then a CV carb. What you have experienced with your carb could be from improper set up. The CV carb you change jets and go but the slide carb is more tunable since you change out jets, slide needle and seat to tune it. Not sure if you had just bought it and threw it on. If so you will need to purchase a master kit to tune it for your application. When we talked I may have understood you having a CV carb, sorry for the confusion. Is the carb you bought an actual Kein or is it a knockoff? If it's a Kein it will be on the side of the carb.

Thanks for the response.

My carb does have Keihin embossed on the side of it. but with the issues i'm experiencing, it makes me wonder about it's athenticity though. HOWEVER: I did just read something about that carb on another site that I need to look into. They were showing a cap installed on the same side as the idle speed screw that is to remain on. "it's not a vent".

Well, I don't recall any caps on my carb. So I'm going to see if there is a vent and try capping it. Then see if that solves my problem of fuel spiiting out and bubbles following it. (it means air HAS to be getting into the bowl area from somewhere)

Well, nonetheless, I'll run the kart with the stock CV 24 on it for now and get some #'s with it. Then I'll try a bigger carb (PE28 if it works, or probably the VM 26-606) and see where that gets me. Then I'll post those findings for everyone to see.

Looking forward to your results! but I still don't think you'll get that much more umph out of it! but I may be wrong, anything is good.

Well, so far the NCY 58.5mm BBK and NCY ported head with stock intake and carb have gained me zilch. Still max speed at 38.9 MPH

HOWEVER: I am experiencing an issue.

I make a WOT run about 50 yards down the road, turn around and hammer it back. But at around the 3/4 mark coming back, she craps out. Let off the throttle and it will come right back.

So i made a leisurely stroll down to the turn around and hammered it back and no cutting out.

Do you guys think I'm running my carb bowl dry when running say 100 yds at WOT? Using a 40 pilot jet and a 135 main

Probably so, that's what it sounds like it could be.

Do the same run with your gas cap removed. your vent may be obstructed and affecting gas flow. If that does not help, you my need to upgrade the fuel filter, petcock or fuel line for better delivery.

Nice thoughts GX, but I think none of those are my issue.

I punched out the gas cap vent.

Filter, maybe, but I doubt that. 1/4" barbs

Not running a petcock. Just straight 1/4" I.D. fuel hose.

But the carb has a 3/16" barb on it. So that's why I'm thinking bowl sucked dry.....

Thanks though

If you have a clear fuel filter, try and look at it when the engine starts to bog. If it is empty, you have delivery problems from your tank.

Could be the float is set too low, also make sure your carb doesn't have a restricted bowl vent.

It's the gearing thats holding you back. the motor mods are getting you to top speed easier and faster but the final gearing will only spin so much.

Yea, With that jetting, your sucking fuel faster than the lines can deliver.
If you haven't already, get rid if the vacum fuel cutoff and use a 5/16"manual cutoff. those vacuum units are restrictive.
using a high volume/capacity fuel filter helps also . the excess fuel in the filter acts as a extra reservoir when the demand is high. I like these filters, they are high volume,fast flow, replaceable filter elements and clear to enable observing fuel flow and you can also see the element so you know when it's time to clean or change. Only down side to the unit is it has a glass outer shell so you have to keep it securely fasten or it may bang around and break.
i've never had a issue with the 3/16 carb barb being restrictive. as long as there's enough fuel ahead of the barb. it works fine for me.

I'll look into them. Thanks guys

I believe you're right about this one.

May need to consider different internal gear size. Or maybe try larger sliders to get the belt further up the stock variator?

Check out the latest modification to my armorment. :evil:


http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...89/5187055.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...89/5187054.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...89/5187053.jpg

Tater cannon!!!! At least you have the end of the barrel beyond the seats so you don't get the splatter/spray!!!!
By the way- love your fenders-nice design.

Like the fenders as well. Did you make them?

Maybe you'll think twice about trying to pass me with that mounted up top, huh guys??? ;)

Yes, fenders are my design.

Driver's side is a little wrinkled now, since I dumped her on her side pretty hard a few weeks back. Oh well, gives it character....

What do you guys think is my best option for front shocks on here?

Man, I think we were in a different thread on here talking about this exact subject... How much money do you have to spend? That's the big question... some of these guys have put more money into the shocks than they have in the buggies! To each his own, I don't race, and the chepo shocks that I have on it now ride really good, but I do plan on upgrading my fronts since I have blown them out.

I've been eyeing these, they are in my budget and they have mix reviews... some say they work great and others have had bad experiences with them (Non have had them on the spiderbox).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320mm-AIR-Sh...#ht_731wt_1163

he has them in all different colors... I found them because I was looking for some used Blaster shocks for the rear.

Those shocks look promising!! if you can stretch to the 13-1/4" length

those shocks and the one's ckau has on his for "test" purposes i looked at and decided not to go with ... i just don't get a good feeling about their construction and overall chances of surviving very long in a rougher riding situation.

I've had a set of the blaster shocks for sale in the classifieds for a long time. Already modified to fit the Yerf too. They're the yellow ones in my first pics at the top of the page.

I'll do $25 for both plus actual shipping if interested....

I'm kinda leaning towards TRX shocks right now.

I was also looking into some other ones, and they said they're oil filled when asked, but I'm not too sure?????

I would have loved the SC shocks but were sold out when I found out about them. :cussing:

SC shocks are good, but I bet they are no better than the ones I posted earlier. I have the SC ones on my yerf now and they are running on just springs for the most part. sometime since I've had them they have sprung a leak. But I did have my buggy way over the weight limit and that's what I believe caused it.

I think I'm gonna give the air ones a try.

I agree the SC shocks worked well-for a little while!!! mine started bottoming out pretty fast after beating them up in the trails to the point I took them off, mine aren't leaking just too soft to perform the same as when they were new. Too soon to say if the Hyper Carrera coil overs I borrowed from my other buggy are going to be permanent fix-so far they're awesome.

I found when moving the SC shock mounts out further on the bottom A-arms, they got a bit stiffer and don't droop as much now when I sit in the buggy. They are much better now... but they still have no dampening,

So today was pretty fun.

My sister, bro in-law, and mother took my little nephews (5 and 8 yrs) for a ride around my so-called "track" (Burger King parking lot)

They LOVED it. (everyone of them)

The most surprising comment came from my 60 yr old mom who said she wants one.... LOL

The boys LOVED firing the cannon, which scared the Hell out of grandma (my mom) when she heard it fire for the first time. :) (propane makes a much bigger bang than hairspray does)

Good times.......

Good times!!!!

Mounted up a set of Moto 4 YMF 100 shocks on the front today.

They're 1" taller than stock and much softer. Only issue is they bottom out too easy.

Does make for a nice cushy ride on the pavement though.

I'll be putting them on my nephews' 3203 Yerf since they weigh 100 lbs combined. Should work real well for them.

Took the Kart to my uncle's place today for a family outing. Everything worked out great.

Kids loved it, adults loved it, it ran GREAT!!!

Tall grass, short grass, fallen trees, muddy trails, you name it. It handled it with no problem. The donuts and tail spins in the short grass seemed to be everyone's favorite.

Then I got the news from one of the people riding it last.........


"The chain popped off."


I thought, "hmm, that's weird....."




Ugh!!!!!!!!........ Oh no!!!!!!!!!!




The dreaded motor mount failure...... :( :( :(


Motor mount broke on both sides of the mount at the top.

Took out the chain guard, the skid plate/chain guard on bottom left, (when looking at the rear) Kinked the header pipe, cracked the spark plug boot, and bent the spark plug tip the the boot clips on.


Man that mount can mess up alot of stuff.

We managed to fab up a temp mount, so I took it for a quick shake down run. Started up and ran good. Hauled butt through the grass area, did a tail spin and that was it.

The carb started sputtering and coughing. Would idle fine, but once you gave it gas, she would pop and sputter out.


What a real bummer too, everyone was having a ball with it.

Oh well, I got some more wrenching to do....

can you put up a pic of it? Is this the long hanging front mounts or the single rear tensioner/mount? i keep getting a very loud metal on metal banging from the rear and cant' find any evidence of contact between anything. i have the chain with about 1/2 total up and down slack in it, don't want to go tighter -- it has some pretty good "crush" on the mount rubber bushing. i keep thinking the noise is the topside of the tensioner mount gapping out and slapping back down.

The same thing happened to me on the red buggy after a jump. Sounds like all the same damage I had.

The yerfs were bad on breaking the rear mount. Other buggymakers using the gy6 engine used a case support which was 2 piece and bolted around the rear banjo portion of the case. Your lucky since I have seen many yerfs break the rear casing as well. You also must make sure you are using the long bolt with spacer sleeve on the front mounts for this will keep the engine from twisting due to the torque, and make sure the press in mounts are good for they do go bad.

X, yes it's the single rear tensioner/mount at the back.

From now on, I'm going to be attaching a safety tether from the swing arm to the engine just in case this ever happens again with the new HD mount I just ordered yesterday.

The biggest problem right now I'm having is deciding on what to do with the exhaust. I just need a header pipe since mine is slightly damaged.

I'm NOT going to pay $45 for a Yerf exhaust just to cut the muffler off of it. (FMF slip on)

The MRP is not supposed to be all that good of quality or a performer.

The Hammerhead doesn't perfrom ver well.

And the TK costs a ton......

Think I'll be trying to bend my own header pipes sooner than i expected....

i think ckau buys pre-bent sections, welds them up and routes the pipe topside. might be a method worth looking into. I was looking at the front hangars thinking they could use some beefing up. (triangle boxes of 1/8th sheet) Looks like i'll do all three.

Hey Xlint89, I know you had the blaster shocks on the back of your buggy, how did they feel? when you sit on it did they sag a little like they should? and how did the damping feel?

I'm rebuilding the rear end of my buggy next week and I want to get some new rear shocks and I'll probably just go with the blasters, if I can find some at a good price.

Also, The axle in the rear fails from twisting and shearing off and not from the pressure from the weight on top or bending. Even with the mod done it just twisted off... I didn't know it was broken until the hub slid off, I had one wheel turning on a hill and the other one didn't move.

Blasters were too stiff for my liking. (remember I ride mostly on black top)

I've been selling that set of shocks for quite a while now. I'll do $30 shipped for the pair if interested. (already cut down to fit the stock mounts too)

Thanks, I'll look into this.

Cool, I'll most likely take you up on that offer... I'll PM you once I'm ready... probably next week... I'm waiting to see if I past my test for EMT, if I don't then I'll have to pay 70 more bucks to re-test.

New HD motor mount showed up today. Not very happy with it at all.....

Stock bolt was a fine thread, hardened, metric, with gold colored corrosion resistance coating.

New bolt is course thread SAE zinc plated. i don't even think it's hardened because there are no markings on the head indicating.

So you need to buy new nuts for it to work right off the bat.

The mounting holes are drilled SAE, so you need to drill them larger for the metric bolt to go through the engine case. Or buy new SAE nut and bolt for it, then it won't fit the engine case bushing perfectly.

And to top it all off, I had to spread/pry the mount wider to slip over the engine case bushing.

Not very happy with it at all for the $26 price tag plus shipping.

And it's definately not a simple swap the old for new kind of part.....

wait, it doesn't come with the nuts and bolts? That sucks...

Nope.....

Just a horshoe shaped piece of 1/4" steel with a 1/2" bolt welded to it.

2 holes drilled through it for the motor bolt and 1 small nut welded on it. (I assume for the chain guard) I wouldn't know since mine pretty much got torn off when the stocker broke.