my new yerf dog project
 

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...yerfdog001.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...yerfdog010.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...yerfdog005.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...yerfdog015.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...yerfdog019.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...yerfdog017.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...yerfdog007.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...yerfdog011.jpg

in the last pic where does the bottom end seat belt mount to?

heres what i ordered so far
1. hammerhead exhaust kit with the uni filter combo
2. cdi ignition wire
3. cdi box upgrade
4. new spark plug
5. new carb and new manifold
6. heavy duty spindels and heavy duty ball joints


7. What battery do u guys recommend for it???

http://www.batterywholesale.com/batt...ml?prodID=5200
got the new battery, just have to cut the tabs on the battery tray and figure out a way to strap here down. The good news is that the engine cranks! after sitting for so long.

The belt bracket fits on the rear,outside bolt hole between the seat and seat frame rail when putting in the seat in.
roll strip Velcro works very well for a battery tie-down- just cut a piece several inches longer than needed and overlap. I use this and it stays on through the abuse and easy to remove and re-install.
Gllad to hear it runs!!!! that's always a good thing.

she doesnt run yet its far from running i have alot to go, she turns over and cranks, and i will posting more pics shortly as i need alot of help and hints.

ok heres a couple of pics of what happens when i turn the steering wheel all the way on both sides. I think the rack is shot it binds and doesnt feel right when u turn it and when u r pushing the kart and turn the steering wheel it doesnt want to turn at all. I just put the 20 inch tires with the bd spindles and bd ball joints and it still does the same thing any opninions??

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...yerfdog020.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...yerfdog021.jpg

another problem when i crank the engine oil shoots out of this hole???
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...ogstuff029.jpg

heres another problem the coil wire doesnt fit onto the spark plug???
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...ogstuff026.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...ogstuff024.jpg

It appears someone may have tried to add grooves to the rack & pinion causing the binding and over steer condition-and they didn't get it right!!!
Find a bolt for the hole in engine-sorry I don't know the size but it will be metric & short .
Un-screw the little tip on the end of your spark plug revealing the threads and try your plug wire again.

with all those problems so far heres what i got done today

battery tray cut for battery fit
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...ogstuff028.jpg

wheels/tires/ bd spindles and bd ball joints all on
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...ogstuff016.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...ogstuff023.jpg

I see that's not all you've done!!! Nice chrome exhaust!! The tires,/wheels look great, what type of tire is that?.Do you plan on beating this buggy up in the dirt? Too bad you have the un-even A-arms for future shock mod's though. Do yourself a favor when you put the negative wire on the battery- run 3 negative wires-one to the swingarm,one to the engine & one to the chassis to eliminate a poor ground,flickering lights,ect.. that way you don't depend on the swingarm pivot bolts for grounding the chassis or the engine bolts providing a ground to the swingarm. Nice job so far,bet you didn't realize how much you could spend so quickly!!!!

I see you did the turning test with the old spindles on there... how is it with the BD spindles?

Just a suggestion... I had the uneven A-arms and they suck! my turning was just like yours. I asked these guys on here several times what they think the problem is but we could not find a solution.

The next thing I did was to extend the top A-arms, drill new holes in the BD spindes equal to the bottom ones. Cut off the extra metal from the top of the spindles.
I also cut off the old shock mounts made some new ones from some 1x2 square tubing (3/4" ID), I and mounted them so that I could run longer better shocks on the top.

You are gonna want to get a welder if you don't have one! I promise you this...

yes i bought the hammerhead exhaust still trying to fab it up with connecting the 1 stinking bolt doesnt line up other wise it will be bouncing every where. yes t3beatz i really blew it here i rushed into this build buying all these parts i wich i would have just bought the top even arms with the bd spindles then have done the heim joints i already dont like the ball joints and im thinking about doing this all over already. this thing is a money pit already and doesnt even run yet.

If you could I would just sell the Ball joints, I'm sure you could find someone who will take them off your hands.

Doing my heims it only cost me about $60 bucks for everything and it's a lot better than the ball joints.

You don't even have to buy new top arms, just grab some 1" ID tubing cut the existing top A-arms and slide the tubing over them to extend to the proper length.

here are a couple pics of what I had to do.

You can see how I slipped the tubing over the A-arm, and cut off the left over part of the spindle, and the shock mounts I had to fab up. Also I used the same 1x2 tubing to stand my rack n pinion off for better steering geometry.

yeah um not sure what to do i might buy the equal lenth arms then try to get the even spindles. not really sure yet, ill call buggy depot monday and see if maybe they can swap the spindles but i doubt they will. also any more tips u can give me on the head where the oil spits out? is there just a bolt thats supposed to go there because there is threads in that spot??

i still have to get the rest done, exhaust still needs to be mounted correctly, cdi ignition wire, im just going to unscrew the tip of the spark plug and it looks like it will fit the ignition wire, have to put the jets into the carb, hook up and install the carb, i put the new manifold on, i bought 10gram rollers, and 1500rpm spring, still have to do that, and put the uni filter kit on lol so i have alost to still do just this **** gets to me to quick i kinda just want to drive the dam thing already lol

i was thinking maybe the steering linkage spring is broken inside ? could that also cause a the problem???
thank you for the replies metalstudman will do the plug and bolt tomorrow.

BD wont take the uneven ones back... I tried, that's why I just did it the way I did. I just did all this a week and 1/2 ago, that's why it's not painted yet. I wanted to bash it around on the trails a bit just to make sure every thing is good. So far it's holding up pretty well, and my turning is great.
on the head do as MSM stated and plug it with a bolt.

Also look at all the teeth on the rack, do they look equal? does it look as if some were added?

Unfortunately there isn't any spring in the R&P steering!!! just a rack with grooves and a pinion gear. Can you twist the rack portion alot?(it should only twist a little) If so then the R&P is shot.

yes it it twists when u turn it all the way and like jumps up a tiny bit i think the rack might be shot, i have alot of decisions here, might just order a hole new rack, go with the equal arms and get the bd equal spindles and just use the ball joints i have for now and try to selll the stuff i have to make up for some of the loss

ok got more pics and questions here got the new carb, manifold, and intake on, but trying to figure out where some of these hoses go.
heres the first pic this house has a T connector in it not sure where this goes?
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...rbhoses005.jpg

oh this hose comes out from the bottom of th carb? where to hook that to?
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...rbhoses006.jpg

3rd hose here looks like a breather because its so small??
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...rbhoses013.jpg

and i know one of these hoses is supposed to connect to the manifold but i cant remember which one, and i got a bolt to cover that hole in the head! :)

before scrapping the rack, check the mounting bolts and bolt holes, they may be worn out. Also if someone did cut some new teeth in it, (which it looks like fromt he turning radius you'e getting) it may be hanging up on the last one if they didn't make a detent for the next tooth on the gear to set into at full lock. It may just need a little fine-tuning with a file to finish it. If you can turn the steering wheel back and forth quite a bit and there's no movement at all of the rack ends/tie rods, then it may have been poorly done or be worn out. best bet its to pull it off the buggy, remove the boots, clean the grease off and post some pics.

First pic, hose goes to the intake manifold, If you notice there are two hoses connected you can just eliminate the connection and connect a longer hose directly from the port to the manifold. Second pic hose goes to nothing, it's the fuel bowl drain hose (I just took mine off). 3rd pic hose is just the fuel bowl vent, if the fuel bowl is over filled it will empty from there.

be mindful of the bolt length . it's a 8m/1.25 by aproximatly a 1/4" long. That hole is a direct passage into the oil channel that feed oil to the head. The hole is a tapped port to connect a oil presuure unit on some obscure models. Get the bolt length too long you block oil flow to the head. Not Good!!! I'll bet it pumped oil like crazy when you spun it over! There can be 20 lbs of pressure going through that passage. don't run the motor without the plastic shrouds in place. they are important. Those shrouds channel cool air around the head to control overheating

just tried cranking it till the battery went dead just to she if she will start nothing!, i think this engine is going to need a rebuild only because it sat for so long with the head ports exposed and the spark plug has rust on it already, the rack does not look like fine to take apart im already about to post this thing for sale.

Ok, Lets start with the engine...

First thing you did wrong was you went out and bought a ton of extra stuff and you didn't see if the engine was going to run.

Ok, are you getting a spark from the plug? take it out connect it to the boot and place the end near a ground point on the frame.
If no spark check and make sure the Ignition kill is not on.

How is the compression? if you have a compression gauge test it. I think you should at least get 125psi.

Fuel? is the engine getting fuel... if you have spark and compression spray a little starter fluid down the carb/intake and then try cranking it.

ur right i def went the wrong way with this i shouldnt have bought any of the stuff until i tried to get it running.

ok took the plug off and tried different ground spots no spark i think its the cdi ingnition wire i have the spark plug isnt connecting to it well its way to loose, like if i was riding i bet it would fall off.

What CDI and coil did you order, or they the correct ones for the GY6?

This is what I run... http://www.ebay.com/itm/50cc-150cc-P...ht_4300wt_1163 Inexpensive and effective!

yup got both of those but this is the 2nd cdi wire buggy depot had to send me because the first one they sent me was defected, this one wont grab onto the spark plug but either way i pushing down hard on it when testing for spark

i just ordered a stock one for 7 bucks to hopefully see what happens

In that pic in post #9 what is that your holding onto the spark plug? is that the boot?

There are other things that could keep it from sparking. Stator could be blown, Kill switch up front could be defective. You have to get the wiring diagram for the buggy and look it over... make sure all the wires are connected properly and every thing has a proper ground.

i have a volt meter and wasnt getting any readings from the cdi wire went trying to start it

yeah seems like im going to have to go over all the electric stuff but the cdi wire def dont seem right, the pic in #9 i was just showing me push the boot onto the plug it doesnt stay on, its way to loose.

im going to disconnect all the wiring and clean it and put it back together and go from there and just do a process of ilumintaion on the electric parts

The Spark plug boot doesn't look right at all... all of mine have looked like this, either black or orange.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPARK-PLUG-C...ht_1812wt_1397

which wire did you test? from the CDI pic below 2 and 6 or important. 6 is the power coming from the Stator and it's AC. 2 is the power going to the coil and it's DC you can test it at the coil spade.

the other pic is just an overall view of how the engine wiring system should go.

It's the correct cdi wire I just pulled the rubber boot off to see what was going on tomorrow is a big day will clean all. Connectors and take out steering rack

ok guys so far today i cleaned ever electrical wire i can find disconnected and reconnected it after i let dry of course lol, and did some testing. i took a screw driver ran it across the solenoid she cranks and sparks from there so the solenoid is getting power to it even my test light showed, went to the red ignition button and im able to to take a screw driver and run it across the 2 connectors and it cranks by doing that to so i believe that means that the button works also. I cleaned around the stator really good as i ordered the pulley bolt for it so i can really take it off and clean good in there once it arrives

the one question is how do i test the green switch i have a volt meter also any tip?

the green switch is the kill, all it does is connect the two wires in the back, closing the circuit. Basically it just grounds the CDI so that the circuit does not get to the coil. If those two wires are left unplugged the buggy should run, touch them together and the buggy will shut off.

gotcha thanks t3beatz, what else should i test then??

No spark,

check output from cdi,
check output from stator,
Make sure kill switch is not on.
check spark at plug, make sure boot is connected properly.
make sure all wires are connected properly and not frayed.

we have spark baby!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

what was the problem? what's next on your list of things to fix on the engine?

not sure what the excact problem was just as i mentioned above though i took every electric piece apart and cleaned it and reconnected it and cleaned everything around the stator, il have to put the rest of the engine together and see if she will run if she runs good then ill change the front end to equal arms, new shocks, and the even spindles. but we will have to wait and see its going to be a process

well, good luck, hope she runs!

thanks for all the advice t3beatz, and everyone else, yeah i hope she runs if not the engine might need a rebuild so that would have to come first over the suspension.

Did you get the fan shroud to cover the flywheel? It needs this to keep the head cool.

yerf
 

no not yet i put her away for the night, tomorrow if it doesnt rain i will hopefully yes get the cover on and hook everything back up and see if she will start

heres some updates so far. The yerf starts perfect everytime! very happy about that, she seems to idle very well cant drive it yet im changing the front suspension to even front arms. I got the new carb, new manifold, the exhaust all on including cdi perfromance box and ignition wire. Oil changed, and gear box oil changed. I didnt install the 1500rpm spring or the 10 gram rollers yet because i want to feel the before and after once i drive it. But heres a couple of pics for u guys.

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...ogether007.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...ogether004.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...ogether003.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...ogether002.jpg

got one question i got all the plastic back on but does this spot using the plastic push pins??
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...ogether005.jpg

Good job on the buggy, those to holes should have some small threaded screws just like the others.

make sure you get some foam filter oil for the UNI.

My front end is almost done, I got some new shocks for it today (some of those 80.00 ebay gas shocks) and so far they are great! I just have to get them charged up with nitro.

Look's great- try and get the other half of the exhaust bracket on the bolt and hope that muffler doesn't get real hot as it will melt the Howhit plastic cover.

yes the header pipe gets very hot! the muffler not to much, as far as getting that clamp half onto the bolt dude i tired so many times!! dont worry its zip tied super tight it aint going anywhere, and i have the intake tube zip tied to the swing arm also so that doesnt rattle either. I guess ill have to see how the plastic holds up by the header once i run her.

thanks t3beatz, i want to change the front shocks also the stock ones r way to stiff, i have the lower arms with the 3 different hole positions so i would like to try to get a longer shock to fit the lowest hole with out having to flip the lower arms, if i do that it will def be better then what it was. the uni filter already went threw the oil process and i hated it lol what a mess. and i look for some small screws for those holes.

I'm not sure you'll be able to fit a shock in the lower hole, you may have to make some mach brackets... http://home.comcast.net/~mburnette/yerf.htm you can see them in the second pic down on the right side.

Or just make some new shock mounts that's what I did. my front end is looking kinda rough in the pic I need to paint it, been doing a ton of mods, waiting until every thing is just about right.

i keep trying to click ur pic to enlarge it its not working :( , and i keep reading people using the carter shocks up front but cant find them anywhere!

You probably wont find any, when the carter factory burned down everyone probably scrambled to get parts.

I just clicked on it and it worked?

i thinks it my computer but i saw ur pic on buggynews, il keep searching for shocks though

ok havent been on in a while but heres updated pics and let me say shes a blast to drive!!!
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...6-24-12001.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...6-24-12004.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...6-24-12005.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...6-24-12006.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...6-24-12007.jpg

with the news pics equal length upper arms installed and painted, with heavy duty spindles and heavy duty ball joints from bd. I can only ride it in the back yard right now because it wont fit out my fence the gate is to small but dont worry putting in 5 foot wide gates in 3 weeks so ill have to wait to see what the top end speed feels like.
Let me say though with the exhaust, intake, ignition wire and ignition box she feels good! i still have the 10 gram rollers and 1500rpm clutch spring that i havent put in yet because i want to see the before and after difference with that mod.

Excuse me if I chuckle!!! it's trapped in the backyard!!! how'd you get it back there in the beginning? Your progress has been great and glad you've got a working buggy now.

lmao! yes even the gate on the back side of my property leads right to about a good miles worth of trails is to small when i put the new front suspension on with the tires and wheels its wider then stock so it wont make it out but hey i cant help driving it in the back yard lol

i think next will be rear tires and rear shocks might give the bd rear shocks a shot and some 21 or 22 inch rear tires, then hopefully the 10gram rollers and 1500rpm spring will make it even quicker off the line

Trapped in the back yard! now that is funny. I can't fit my buggy through the back gate either, it's about 3.5ft wide and my buggy is a little over 4ft I have to keep it in the garage, but I would like to get it into the shed... the girlfriend hounds me about it all the time.

The buggy is looking good BTW.

lol yes getting entire new fence with 3 new 5 foot gates so then i will have no problem getting in and out :).

might give the bd rear shocks a shot the stock ones r to stiff, and i think with some new tires like these
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...-Sand-ATV-Tire

Those are the type of tires I have... they are good all around tires. Mine are actually Cheng Shin http://www.atvpartsstore.com/cheng_s...atv_tires.html

I plan on buying some front Blaster shocks for the rear of mine from a guy off of this site, some people say they are too stiff, I'm looking for some that are softer than the ones that I have on it now with a little more travel.

Looks good.

Front shocks will do wonders for ride quality too.

Quick Q for you, do you by chance have the stock exhaust laying around?

Good choice! That's the exact rear tires we have on the Yerf- I think they're great for running on different terain and have enough grip for mud and soft soil but still let the backend slide around on compacted dirt.

xlint89 yes still have the stock exhaust, metalstud which size did u go with the 22-11-8?? and use the stock rear wheels?

as for the front shocks so far they arent bothering me, its the rear thats way to stiff so rear end stuff first and i saw bd now has the steering rack assembled with 8 extra teeth! as the turning radius is a little wide so much more to think about to do lol this hobby sure does get involved but i love it.

We have 22x11x10's on aluminum rims (dual bolt pattern 110mm & 4x4)
That rack with 8 teeth cut in it is extreme!!! I use the 4 teeth I cut and don't want to turn any sharper (16' turning radius). I'm running 2 mono (rear) shocks off the HondaTRX200SX I snagged the motors from and very happy with the ride.

I saw the new BD steering racks and was thinking the same thing MSM is saying. I did 4 on mine also and my turning is perfect now, with 8 there will def be wheel rubbing unless you have a very wide front end (I have 21" tires on the front of mine and they are just about rubbing).

Xlint89 is correct about the fronts! with a seat cover with some thick padding under it my ride is almost plush now. Just need to get the rear shocks, the ones I have now have absolutely no damping.

Free storage! I have plenty of room, with a 12 foot opening double door entrance. I will try very hard to make sure your equipment does not get stale, and am willing to do minor maintenance at no charge, when and as required. There will be some testing and evaluation conducted of course.

Great looking re-dux, breathing new life into an old dog! I'm sure it will give you hours and miles upon miles of fun...once you get it out of the back yard, that is...LOL!

yes i feel like an extra 8 teeth would be way to much, an extra 2 teeth on each side i think will be plenty and the buggy seems to turn sharp when turning to the right and doesnt want to turn that well when turning to the left. another thing i will have to work on. i was thinking of just using a grinder and cutting the 2 extra teeth

ordered bd rear shocks for the yerf today cant wait to try them out.

let me know how they feel, I'm still searching for a good rear shock, I've went through a couple sets so far. I would like to try some sled shocks they seem to have a lot of travel and are pretty soft. I'm gonna try the blasters next.

will do t3beatz they should be here friday :) so this weekend they will go in and also i would like to finish sanding the floor and paint it black. i still have to install my 10g rollers and 1500rpm spring.

after running the 10g rollers for a while I'm gonna move up to some 12 or 13g sliders. I'm not getting close to top speed with the 10g rollers and my 39T sprocket. I can tow a heck of a lot of weight but I don't have any speed. And with the spiderbox being so light I don't need as much power as I have now. My lil brother showed me that last weekend when he beat me in a hill climb event at the Buggy bash (his spiderbox just has a 155cc Big bore kit) he is running the 16t reverse sprocket with the stock axle sprocket. He has the 10g rollers and 1500rpm contra spring.

u think the 10grams rollers r over kill?? i was thinking have a cam and head swap also, by any chance what would be a good rim to go with tire's in the range of 21x10x8 the stock tires in the rear i would like to to change and ur good with wheels lol

http://www.*************/item/22-x-11...bly-04667-6906

maybe this for the rear setup?

if they fit the stock bolt pattern or not

That tire/rim setup doesn't fit the stock bolt pattern. For the rear you need 4x110mm rims (the stock ones are fine) You will just need to find some good tires So you can go here... this is a good all around tire for the rear and this place ships for free over 99 bucks http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...-Sand-ATV-Tire

If you have a cam and do a head swap, 10g rollers would be overkill, I'd go with sliders, maybe 12-13g like I was saying, they still give you the low you need but will get you higher variation than the rollers will. So you will have the grunt and the extra speed also

Post #11 shows my mods and the gains they got me.

10 gram rollers too small for Yerf.

http://buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2670

u know what also i forgot about with adding taller tires its going to drop the top end speed, maybe ill just try the 1500rpm spring first. If i buy those duro mud tires will those 22x11x8 tires fit on the stock wheels.

Adding taller tires will increase your top end speed, but it will take away from your bottom end a little. That's why people try the 10g rollers, but 12g sliders are better because they will also give you more speed along with the same low end the 10g rollers give they just cost a little more.

also to get more torque after you've upped the wheel size to the 22s you can up the axle sprocket to 36T (tractor supply has this but the holes have to be drilled) this will get you back to around stock performance on the low and top end. If you want even more low end power the 39T sprocket will work but it will cut down your speed a lot, and your engine will rev higher more.

And yes the 22x11x8 tires will fit on the stock rims.

Sliders, IMHO, are the only way to modify a variator. Rolllers flatten out, and begin sliding, but in doing so, they loose their ariginal diameter, and will not close the pulley sheaves as much as when they were new. This equates into more rpm, and even less top end. Sliders, due to their design do not wear near as much, nor loose the thickness the originally come with, leading to a much longer life and a more precise sheave control. Usually a 2gram heavier slider, than your prospective roller weight will give you equal, or better performance, with the slider.
Another trick, I don't see many people using, and it will wake up a stock variator, is to shave about .020" off the length of the sheave pin. The big pin that goes on the crankshaft, that the variator sheave rides on, or opens and closes on. By taking .020" OFF it's length, you allow the 2 halves to close up just that much moe. It, .020", will allow the belt to ride a good 1/8=3/16" higher in the pulley, about as high as you can go, and still keep it in the pulley. This all relates to a higher top end speed. On GY6 150cc scooters we were experiencing as much as 4mph increase. Since tire size was way limitted on scooters, 4mph was a BIG deal. Just find a bud with a lathe, and trim up to .020" off. But before you do, with the rear wheels off the ground, and the CVT cover off, fire it up, and make a couple of run ups to see exactly how high the belt comes on the variator. After doing the mod, try it again...seeing is beleiving.:biggthumpup:

awesome info guys, i have to think like its my mustang though i want a quick gear to get the car into its power band with a high reving cam. so i guess ill buy the sliders then. The stock ones in the case are 14.5 so as long as i go lower then that and try a top end cam i think it would make a good combo. im still trying to decide on rear tires first though. to much at once for me lol

Nice build.
Not bashing but why do yall want equal length aarms,am I missing something?

oh boyyyyyyy i bit the bullet and ordered the 22x11x8 tires!!!!!! for the rear! shocks will be here tomorrow and hopefully next week the rear tires will be on so the suspension will be done for the front and back :)

The unequal a-arms on the yerf get in the way if you want to run longer shocks up front.
The shocks wont just mount in the stock position there is a lot more to it.

Camber gets thrown off, tie rod length, etc...

With the even ones things are much better, it was a night and day difference when I switched mine from the uneven...

I'll provide an opinion to this question- simplicity, easier geometry to set-up & deal with, good caster/camber thru travel & turning radius. Shock set-up/angle accuracy isn't as critical- well proven design for light weight vehicals.

Your gonna love having some real tires on the back, you'll feel like just finding the biggest muddiest hills and doing some climbing.

Then you'll realize, I still have to add a little more power to the low end now!:biggrin:

lmao yeah i have alot of trails around me so i figured the bigger tires all around was needed first. lets see how all these parts work together but im sure im going to want more power i already talked to tom il probally do a head and cam down the road for the extra power. thank you again for the tips on tires t3beatz

Ok I was just wondering,if it works better for the dogs its a good deal.
Hows the wheel control in a hard turn,does it lean out at the top?My aarms are not the same length by a few '' and still have pore wheel control.The hole buggy is getting a make over,Im starting on it tomorrow!

let me tell u the equal arms just feel more stable and more responsive when turning not so sloppy and bindy lol they just feell better .

You'd be surprised what a port & polish job, with a port matched intake would do on your stock head, add a good set of valve springs....hoooooooyaaaahhhhhh with an A-9 cam!

Did I mention, "tulip" grinding the underside of the valve head?

yeah not sure yet with the head, still got alot to do on her, i knocked down a fence post just now and took her for a quick spin on the street :) man turning to the left sucks dam thing doesnt want to turn for **** when i turn to the right it feels good quicker radius and not so sloopy its dark now so il wait till tomorrow to c whats going on. man this hammerhead exhaust is loud lol but i love it. tomorrow i will also take it threw the trails and see how she does threw that then put the rear shocks on to c the difference