Is this the right cdi?
 

I got this cdi with the engine I bought from T-motorsports. http://www.kidsatvparts.com/ws/img/p...0-thickbox.jpg
I noticed that most others have two plugs. Is this the wrong one? Also The kit didn't include a rectifier or ballast. What parts do I need to complete the electrical system?

thats the same CDI i have on My 50 cc and 110 cc Loncin Motors, What is the size of the Motor you bought . Need more info to help !

Its a 150cc. Doesn't have a brand name or any id other than a serial number and 150cc stamped on the valve cover.

I heard that those single plug cdi's are no good and should be upgraded to the dual plug as well as a different stator. Which also means a new flywheel:banghead:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/125cc-150cc-...item2318b9b884

Thanks. But if I need to change everything I will probably go with Buggy Depot;s 11 pole stator.
This thing is driving me nuts!!!!!

Yeah, i'm kinda looking at that upgrade myself.....

Does anyone have more info on this cdi box?

I have never seen a 150 buggy with a single plug cdi, anyone I have owned, sold or worked on had a 2 socket cdi. That cdi is for the 50cc-125cc Honda CT style engine. What motor type did you buy?

TOM

I bought this one
http://www.t-motorsports.com/product...19412_zoom.jpg
from t motorsports via ebay.

This is the actual ebay pic
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/2/0...7460381_tp.jpg

With this cdi
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/2/0...7460337_tp.jpg

It is deffinately a GY6 but the cdi is incorrect. The motor is either for an atv or scooter due to the rear engine mounted brake. If using reverse you will probably have to change out the output shaft using the longer one.

TOM

From what i have look up its a GY6 moped motor With a DC cdi !
And the kick start is another dead giveaway!
I have 1 loncin 110cc and one loncin 50cc motor and they both use that same cdi.

Here is the answer I got from T motorsports:
"Hello. The brand is TMS. We design it and ask China oem for us. For the CDI question please check with local mechanic engine shop to install this engine for you. If you have any questions please ask local mechanic to contact us. Thank you."

What the hell kind of answer is this! They Make the engine? Why is it so damn hard to tell me about the cdi?

Roflmao

I went to their web site and would bet the house that they are a clearing house for the cheapest chinese products that others have rejected. I know chinese products are cheaper there then if they were to come from this country. Just looking at the price of their engines, batteries ect., they are not the highest of quality for the prices they ask.I also noticed they have tech support. They should have been able to help you and not send you to a mechanic. Why then have a tech support. From what I saw in your picture that cdi is for a 50cc-125cc Honda ct style engine. Some of the 110cc and below gy6 engines used that type of cdi. With no markings on the cdi how would the best of mechanics know how to wire that cdi? Which of the pins will except the trigger or the coil. I hate that you have to go through this, the best you can do is to get a gy6 buggy wiring schematic, the proper cdi and wire your buggy up. If your buggy already had the gy6 engine in it then get the proper cdi then plug and play.

TOM

Honestly, I'd battle through heck and high water to get that returned with shipping at their cost. Do you have a copy of the e-bay ad?

I just googled T motorsports and got their web site. They sell a little bit of everything. The funny thing is when I go to a new web site I always click on the about us tab, I may be alone but this is one of the tabs I click before I purchase, but they don't have one. I compare it to walking into a store and being greated pleasently and offered asisstance (about us) as to going into the same place and given the cold shoulder and waiting for asisstence while the clerk talks about his weekend with his buddy(no about us). It tells me what and who they are and weather I even care to do business with them.

TOM

Get it lest than 30 days ago? Full refund no questions to ask!

Return Policy

What if you need to return your purchase?
You may return new items in 30 days sold by T-motorsports.com website. Full refund no questions to ask!

Items should be returned in their original packaging. When returning an item the customer is responsible for the return shipping fee and shipping all of the purchased items back. For return just ship with the invoice or packing slip together with the item you purchased back to us.

It stated in the ebay ad that all sales on engines were final. I may tear this thing down to see if it really is a 150. It does have the four bolt valve cover. I am so used to small block chevies and the parts that never fit right. I guess you learn by trial and error.

How many companies make these engines anyway?

Wow, that 100% guarantee banner was right under their name on the home page !!!! Makes me never want to buy there if they pull that BS.

Just look on the cylinder and in raised alpha numerals it should hace 150cm 0r 149cm.

I have GY6 all over my motor ! Even the Oil filter cap under the crank case has GY6 on it ! however in looking for parts on the web lots of places advertise parts for a GY6 50cc ,100cc 150cc and 250cc, I have never seen one besides my own 150. And my colection of LONCIN motors , My loncin look nothing like the GY6 motors. The pics you put up look just like my GY6 Minus the wiring harness!

What do the case stamped numbers read? (bottom of the case ,above the oil drain) These should give a decent clue as to what you have .

BD1P390MB
1105163003
Thats what it says.

According to the number configuration, but this is not always totally accurate. The only real way to be 100% positive is to measure the bore. You may void any warranties by doing this so it's a gamble.

BD is a identifier of the manufacturer.
1P indicates a single cylinder with a head particular to this model of gy6. it may not be compatible with standard gy6 150 cc parts.
390 as well as the MB indicate this is a 50cc motor.
The numbers series below is the motor serial number.

IMO... if possible try to get your money back. Specifically ask for a motor with the 157QMJ numbers.


1 = the number of cylinders
57 = the bore in millimeters of the cylinder
Q = a GY6 type engine
MJ= a numerical code for the displacement in cc's, in this case 150cc

The last two letters bear further explanation. The M is constant but the next letter ascends alphabetically with each larger step in displacement. MB = 50cc, MC = 60cc, MD = 70cc, MH = 110cc, MI = 125cc, and MJ = 150cc.


To further complicate this matter, specific manufacturers such as Quinjiang will put their own identifier in the code. An example of this would be QJ139QMB, a 50cc engine.

A "P" after the 1 indicates a head type on the 150cc engines that is sometimes not compatible with parts for the 157QMJ engine, so make sure with your parts supplier when ordering. An "E" in the code indicates a two stroke which is not a GY6; also a 250cc engine is not a GY6.

On a side note: According to the web site, these motors are advertised as 150cc. If this motor should be found to be a 50cc, you have a very ligitimate complaint!
contact E-bay first to make them aware of the problem and state that you will attempt to rectify with the seller first. and if by chance, can't resolve then you will depend on E-bay to intervene.

I should have seen that one , top mount starter and the kick start !!
Sorry about your luck , Hope ebay or the company makes this right for you.

Wow ckau, that engine description is good ! that post ought to be a sticky

I bought it too long ago to get a refund. So, I'll pull the head and measure the bore.
I should have been skeptical when I noticed a 1 stamped before the 50cc on the valve cover.

well, if it was misrepresented and sold, that isn't necessarily true. i'd verify what it is. if it isn't a 150, then i'd make a very polite e-mail to the seller and basically let him know that it isn't what the ad said, and that you'd like it swapped. if they refuse, another polite e-mail suggesting a civil inquiry and small claims court might make it happen.

Well, tore it apart. The bore measures 2.248" or 57mm.
Now the **** starts. Since its apart gonna add a cam, port the head and a few other things.
Wasn't in the budget but since its apart might as well!
Gonna need a spec on a cam.

Further teardown reveals this magneto
http://syndication.syntric.net/inven...g/11917_1.JPEG

with a 8 pole stator. It seems that the cylinder and piston are from a 150cc and the rest of the parts are for a 50cc.

Most 150GY6 motors come with 8 pole stators today, what you need is the proper cdi for the 150cc.

TOM

BOTTOM LINE MESSAGE TO ALL NEWBIES!
If I had done better research before purchasing and didn't make my choices using price as the only deciding factor I wouldn't be in this perdicament.

Had I spoke to some of the verified trusted dealers that support these various forums I would have saved money in the long run. Now I am looking at additional cost of replacing ignition, stator, cam, springs, variator, torque spring, clutch and other parts when I could have had a custom gy6 built for less!

Your stator should be fine unless you plan to add lots of lights, the cdi is all you should need.


TOM

The wiring from the stator has three wires in a white plug and then one bullet connector.

I do intend to add lights so the 11 pole will help with the charge.

BTW SYCARMS did you get my private message?

Yes I have, I'm in catchup mode after being gone all weekend at the Dealer Expo/V twinn show in Indy. Got back yesterday then had to deal with my best friend Lab who died so please be patient for I am still in catch uo mode.


TOM

Sorry to hear about your lab. I lost mine two years ago and know how it feels.

No rush, just making sure these computers deliver messages like they should.

Well, more research has shown that I never should have bought this motor from t-motorsports. There are 50 pages of threads on totalruckus.com beating them to death.

Now I find out the engines with the silver cvt cover have four wires coming from the stator, no rectifier and the wrong cdi! So now I need to change the stator to a five wire and get a ac cdi OR convert to a dc only system using a total logic rectifier and wiring mods.

I PM'd you.

I think I might have made a similar mistake. I ordered a motor that looks just like that but from another company. I see the place where the motor mounts to the buggy is different in the back (by the drive shaft). I am going to have some problems getting my chain to line up right with the sproket. Mine is supposed to be delivered today but I have concerns. If the projections (for scooter brakes, I guess) are removable I might be okay.

Don't worry, those gold parts unbolt. I thought the same thing also.

Thanks. The engine I got was not the exact model for the buggy but with very few modifications I was able to get in on and running. I hope you had similar results.

t-motorsports 150gy6 on '06 Carter Talon
 

I too was a bit skeptical when I saw the 150 GY6 on Amazon for $280. I saw the seller was "T-motorsports". Went to their website and it was listed for $242 + CA tax + $69 shipping. I was able to get it for $266 OTD. Had the wife pick it up in Pomona in her Prius for probably $10 in gas, since we live in Santa Clarita. My Carter Brothers 150 Talon has been out of commission for about 3 years since it lost all power and wouldnt even start. I was gonna sell it for $300, but figured I'll drop a few hundred back into it (about $400 after replacing parts) and see what happens. It runs excellent. Like new. Now, I don't know how many hours I will get out of it, but it was an exact match to the original motor. I did have to grind a bit of the casing near the rear to get the original rear mount/chain tensioner to work, but that only took all of 20 minutes.
I had the same stupid single plug CDI that came with it. I ordered a new one online from "motopartsmax.com". I went off of what the pics looked like and ordered the one that looked identical to my original (2-plug, 5-wire). it showed up and the connectors fit, but overall it was a bit smaller than the original. I drove around the block a few times, and it stalled out, and wouldn't start again unless I pumped thhe gas pedal a bit. I saw the new CDI housing was starting to bubble/deform from getting so hot. I put my old one back on and it runs and idles great now. There were some mis-matched wire colors as well, but luckily I had the original owner's manual, which had the wiring diagram. I'm no electrician, but matched up the correct wires, and just as a precaution, replaced the resistor, voltage regulator, and fuel cock before I tried to start it.
The voltage regulator was another issue. I'm using the new one I ordered, even though it was smaller in size. Not sure what can happen there. It's running fine, but I haven't taken it out on a long run yet. I ordered one that is identical to the original and will end up using that when it comes in. Is there a way to determine if I have an AC or DC CDI? There are 2 wires from the one plug, and 3 wires from the other.

BTW It definitely felt like my original 150cc motor.

Measure the input voltage to the CDI 2-pin plug to find out if it is DC or AC powered.

Will do that thanks. My new cdi just arrived today. I ordered it using the same part no. That my Carter manual showed, from "gopowersports.com" part no. 6.000.125...its the same size as the one I fried. Gonna send it back, but now I'm not sure if it may be an ac / dc issue. I read somewhere that the ac units are smaller in size, and the dc are bigger...
The New voltage regulator/rectifier was an exact match.

I measured the voltage and got nothing with my meter in DC mode. 24V in AC mode. I guess it means mine is AC right?

Correct. AC voltage can only be measured when the motor is running. If it was DC powered, You would see the voltage anytime the ignition is on regardless if the motor is running.