Sun L SLGK 150 CVT issues
 

So I got to take the buggy out for a good couple hour run since getting it going. I noticed after about and hour to an hour and a half that the take off was horrible to non existent. After stalling the buggy with a dead battery it was time to tow back to the trailer. A few days later I started her up but she was going no where fast. I pulled the CVT and the belt was chewed up but still there. What I did notice was the Variator stuck wide open and a bit of was looked like soder or melted metal stuck to the inside cover. Due to the bad weather I have yet to pull the Varitor. Can anyone who may have had a similar issue let me know if I am on the right track?

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Yea, Your on the right track. you've fried the CVT! Time for a rebuild. due to the melted stuff. it appears you cooked it to terminal destruction. If it were me, I wouldn't bother trying to salvage the variator and clutch.
I'd replace the whole system. The cvt components after such a melt down never seem to function properly again. Intense heat will warp and soften your pulley faces causing them to wear quickly. The rollers may never travel up the ramps again without sticking. the clutch bell gets blued from the heat and slips. After the contra spring gets hot it looses tension. And so the list goes on. In the end, you'll save time, money and frustration by total replacement.

I figured that was the answer, on the bright side I have a carter 150 sitting on the bench with a blown top that I can pull from for a temporary solution. Next would be preventing overheating the replacement. Typically when I run the buggy even at idle it seems to want to roll a bit telling me that even at a lower rpm something was stuck and engaged. Direct replacement should correct that issue. Any other tips on keeping her cool?

Btw thank you for the info!

The newer engines come with a different rubber cap on the end of the cvt cover to allow more air in for cooling so I bought them. I believe they where $3 or $4 bucks and are better then the stock original one.

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Just type in buggy depot where the stars are and that's the part it will help a little. I've Seen people even drill wholes towards the bottom side of the cvt by the clutch area also. I remember reading alot about guys coming up with all kinds of ways to keep there cvt area cool. If you Google or yahoo it there's some good info on it and alot of it is from the scooter guys.

There's a few things you can do help the cooling. Make sure the inlet does not have that factory filter in it If so, remove it and toss it. It does nothing but clog air flow. If your worried about stuff getting in through the open inlet, run a length of shop vac hose up high. The fins on the variator do a good job of pulling air through as long as there's no restrictions. The outlet is on the bottom rear, It looks similar to a P-trap cast in the case. The shape is intended to not allow trash and water to enter the case but by design is very restrictive. Take a grinder to it and open it up some. The idea is to get as much fresh air circulating as possible.
Best method I found was to score a howett case. Theses cases have a removable plastic emblem over the clutch. Remove the emblem and fashion a screen cover with a filter material behind. I got a substantial reduction of heat by doing this. Seeing how the air is constantly blowing out I've had no problem with trash getting or the filter clogging, only occasional mud splatter.

ive been running my yerf with that piece of the cover completely off with no problems so far and def made a huge difference in cooling and like I stated before put the newer version of the rubber cap on the air vent.

Great ideas. Thank you very much for the info.

Finally got to dig into this today. Pics below are of the aftermath. Removed the variator rollers were melted strait to it. After cleaning that up I replaced with 14 gram rollers. The clutch was purple so I replaced that. Belt, well the pics tell it all. As a bonus I noticed the intake manifold was cracked so I hit that as well. While in there pulled the carb apart and soaked that. Tomorrow I hope to replace all the grease fittings with stainless, get the CVT cover back on and fire it up again.

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that was one hot cvt ... those rollers are so melted down that they look like sliders ....

I am still not sure why it was so bad. This thing was in rough shape when I picked it up. Guess I am just going to pick it apart one thing at a time.

if the cooling duct filter is plugged, heat builds up really fast inside the cover. add in extra heat from a worn belt, glazed pulleys and some hard riding and you've got carnage porn pics ... Mine was in beautiful shape, filter got plugged and one hard riding session resulted in a belt that shredded into tiny leetle bits. I think the longest piece was about 4 inches ...

the newer version cooling filter is a lot better then the old one x-bird is talking about, buggy depot sells them I believe for $4 or $5 bucks and will help with air flow I have them and like them I wish I did a before and after testing.

Just remove the rubber intake boot but save the oval looking clamp used to secure. Replace with a piece of scotch bright. DG usually has them in a pack of 3 (red, blue & green). Just use one of the 3 pads color your choice, and place over neck and bring clamp over it then tighten. Remove excess with razor blade. It breathes very well and easy to see when it is dirty. Just hose off, don't even have to remove it.

I like the scotch bright idea. I noticed during removal of the CVT cover that the channel behind the clutch was plugged with grass. I am sure that would cut air flow quite a bit. Now the only thing I have left there is getting the cover back on. I gave up on that because it was getting dark and the kick start gears were preventing the cover from sliding right back on.

The cvt ventilation works like this. Air is sucked in through rubber neck by the variator fan which moves the heat to the rear out that rear opening in cover. Do to it being restricted by grass the air was not moving through the cover to cool the cvt.. Driving by itself with that plugged after time will destroy the belt, but if extreme as in trying to get out of mud or constantly climbing with that plugged it will destroy more than the belt.

you can ditch those kick start gears, I did in both my buggies.

Just a bolt through the hole to hold the exhaust?

Also does anyone know where I can pick up the cables for this thing? The ebrake is broken, reverse seems to be frozen, and I just tried working the throttle and that seems to be frozen as well. I ran a quick google search and can't seem to find ones for this model.

Email me some pics of the cables along with length. tom@sycpowersports.com I most likely have them, if not I can get them.

This is some really great thoughts and ideas guys.. I've burnt out two belts already. I'm going to improvise and open up some vents for more air!!!!! Thanks.