Suspension questions?
 

So....I am assuming upgrading the suspension is quite easy! But am I wrong? It's it just unscrew 2 ends, pop in the new piece and screw it back?

And if you were upgrading a Yerf Dog Spiderbox and you COULD NOT weld (NOT an option lol) what would you use.

Thanks

if its something that has to be welded, you would have no choice but to pay someone that could weld do it for you.

LOL. I was also wondering about the blaster shocks, some people say they have to weld to put it on, is this true? I would absolutely HATE to go onto ebay and buy a pair for 40 bucks and have it not work out!

if they said there was welding involved they prob. meant you had to move your mounting brackets which would have to be cut off, welded back on to make it work.

thats why you will need to ask questions here before you going spending money on something just because its cool.

Measure ur shocks from hole to hole. Then see if the shocks on ebay fits. They should advertize the measurements on the shocks they're selling. Or someone here with blaster shocks can give you the measurements off there's.

Blaster shocks are 13.5" eye to eye, whereas your stock rears are 12" eye to eye. You will have to get creative if you can not weld, as the eyelet spacers on the blasters are much wider. You either need to find a low heat way to cut them down to avoid destroying the bushing, or weld in new wider mounts. You can try the back yard method as well, which involves cutting a few pieces of flat stock and making a shackle of sorts to fit the shock and bolt the other end in the stock locations.

I'm sure just about everyone here agrees, a grinder and welder are almost required for this hobby. Take a look at mine and CKAU's builds and you will see the amount of work needed to make the spider's trail worthy without breaking something every outing. As for the front end, you can always opt to send out the entire front end to buggy d*pot and have them reinforce everything, but this will cost some coinage.

As for the ball joints mentioned before, I have the BD ball joints, and I really wish I had gone with heims up front instead. Tell you what, I'll cut ya a deal on my set, only has about 4 miles on them.

How much would you want for the joints (mine don't look too pretty, lol)?

What's the difference between all of these??? (looking for replacements for my spiderbox, don't want to weld/fabricate metal.

http://www.*************/Mechanical-A...1_p_1282.html#

http://www.*************/Mechanical-A...12_p_1280.html

http://www.*************/Mechanical-A...12_p_1281.html

http://www.*************/Mechanical-A...12_p_1287.html

Those are mechanical shocks, meaning they are just a spring. Like a pogo stick. You would want gas or oil shocks, even air filled would be better than those.

Basically, the same thing you already have. I'm pretty sure we have spoken about the complexity of matching up new front shocks on these frames, but let me try again. ATV shocks are too hard, sled shocks are too long, kart shocks are pogo sticks. The lightweight front end is very tough to find a shock that compliments it, thats why you don't see anyone jumping in and saying "buy [blank] shock for your yerf". We are trying with mixed results to find something cheap, but the Works brand shocks are the true replacement, but at $400 a pair, not many want to drop coin on those. The blasters are the preferred upgrade for the rear, but you are likely going to need to weld in new mounts like I did.

Thanks, Nick! I am definitely NOT gonna buy those! I have been reading that the blaster shocks are "too big" for the yerf dog rear (and seen pics). I see people making brackets and welding, but can't I just attach the shocks and just have a slightly higher rear end? Or is the frame just not capable of being lifted that high?

They will lift the rear. 12" ATV shocks are hard to find.

So...it won't ruin my frame, right?