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Old 03-10-2013, 11:07 AM
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Masteryota Masteryota is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: North Florida
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If you are going to run similar 35w lights, I would go no less than 14ga. You can run them in series, but that puts a big load on the wire and fuse, I personally would incorporate a relay into the system, as 2 35w lights will pull a good amount of current, resulting in excessive heat if run though just a switch.

Have you considered LED replacements? They used about 1/10th the current, don't get hot, and last about 10 times as long, and are not real sensitive to shock(movement). If you were to got with LED's, you could get away with 18ga wire to both, and forgo the relay, as it won't draw enough current to create much heat. Plus we have a vendor on this site that deals in them and we get a discount, although I remember someone saying the site was down.

I, for example, am looking at some LED fog light style driving lights, they are low profile, water and shock proof, and bright as all get out.

I posted a generalized wiring diagram below, its fairly simple, but very effective and safe, If you buy a kit, almost all of your wiring, switches and a relay are included, which is nice, just make sure you get something bright enough, i.e. beware of cheap eBay light kits.

Also, take note, be careful when running a chassis ground to the frame if the battery is mounted in the swingarm, sometimes the bushing/bolts don't supply a great ground, 2 options there, run all the grounds back to the battery(tedious and lotsa wire, and ugly) or run a 14-16ga single wire from the swingarm to the main frame, essentially ensuring any thing grounded to the frame will have a good solid connection to the battery.
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