Thread: gy6 transplant?
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Old 10-22-2010, 06:01 AM
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JakeTheSnake JakeTheSnake is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Revloc,PA
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B22- This break and fix occurred last fall, it’s held up very well with the exception of my need to get my buggy in the air, and as I said, your bolts act like shear pins when you have need for flight. lol Have some spare bolts in your tool compartment if you got one. Last fall I was running her fast and hard on some jumps, I hit one close to full blast, caught some major air, but then came down hard. As soon as I hit the ground I knew something broke. The cast aluminum at the chain adjust fork snapped and the only thing that saved me from a total engine bottom out was what the Chinese call an engine strengthen board. It held on by a thread. So I got the idea the make 2 of my own engine strengthen boards out of old brake shoes. I have a family friend that runs an auto repair shop, so I went over and grabbed a pair of small worn brake shoes off of him, not sure what they came off of just had an idea of what might fit on the circular cast aluminum area of the output shaft. Got ‘em home, ground off the rest of the pad, if you can find a set worn down to the metal, it’ll make it easier. I then shaped ‘em down to fit on a table grinder, measured up the pre-drilled holes from where the engine a strengthen board was, actually I only needed to drill one hole where as the holes for the brakes shoes caliper pins lined up for the bottom bolt on the board and the top bolt for the chain adjust fork. If you notice the hole for the chain adjust fork on the brake shoe is slightly above the broken cast hole, so I took 2 links of chain out to compensate for chain slack on the adjustment, and brake shoe metal is strong but it’s also very rust prone. I ran it for a while to see if the fix would hold, and it did, then I took it all apart and painted the brake shoes for rust prevention. You’ll also need some washers at the top to even out the spacing at the top by the chain adjust fork, and a washer at the bottom for the play of the big hole of the brake shoe. It’s also a good idea to take some of the lip off of the aluminum cast for better brake shoe fit. This all saves you from having to buy a left side crankcase piece and a cvt/engine tear down to repair it. It’s Western Pennslytuckian engineering at its best, and works like a charm. See the photos for reference to my story and Good Luck!
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