[x-bird]

Thanx back at ya! You just solved an issue i discovered last night--bind at the rack end if i go as far down as i'd like. I'm going pretty short on the steering arm, rack is going front steer mounted as close to center between the arms as i can get it. Don't think i'm going to have to notch the rack, i like things razor sharp reactive so to speak. I'm also ditching the single-through tube on both upper and lowers and doing like yours as i can't find 8-inch long 3/4 dia bolts with 6.5-inch smooth shanks. I've been making my own, but i can't get the threads to run square and they're heavy. I'll stick with bronze bushings (unless i can find urethane to fit). Also going to order up some tubular cro-mo race bolts for them if the price is right (racebolts.com). Still waiting on the spindle shafts. they were 1/2 done last weekend and supposed to be wrapped up but .... I've decided no more trade or getting put on the b-list for small jobs.

Here's a little goodie for everyone ...
Finally figured out what the nuts i was using as misalignment spacers/nuts on the original 3203 tie-rod ends were. Stared at them for sooo dang long wondering where they came from--- they're stock 3/8 fine thread rocker arm nuts from one of my old engines. they look like a lug nut and are hardened. I had them welded conical side up to the steering arms and also cut one down for the pitman ends. If that's the same dia as the bolts your using through your heims, it's a cheap source of a high quality substitute item.

The shaft on my homemade notcher is only 3/8 and is a little sloppy in the 2.5-inch long bushed sleeve. It tends to wander a bit. fine on a full tube, I can land itwher i want it and get a nice 90. the teeth grab hard and lock up or shear off when i break through the wall on an end of the tube cut like you have in the pic. I'm lucky to get a dozen notches per saw.