[metalstudman1]

Let's get the axle sprocket where it needs to be. This axle sprocket carrier is welded on the axle-Depending how and where it's at it can be cut and re-used. This particular one is too close to the rotor carrier and has an internal weld I can't get at. If you decide you can grind the weld out ,take your time and don't over heat the axle. I found a piece of pipe that was 1-1/2" I.D, and with a small amount of massaging the rust out it slid right over the axle.Your pipe needs to be about a foot long to start with even though it'll only be a few inches long when it's done. If you don't have a larger hole saw trace your radius needed and cut it out by hand. I use the large hole saw to basically score the plate front and back and cut it with my grinder. Someday I'll get a plasma cutter!!!!! I cleaned the pipe size hole with a die-grinder. I have 2 different type axle sprockets so I'm drilling for both patterns just incase.The reason for the longer than needed pipe is so you can square/level it up with some accuracy.Once again this part needs to be as true as possible.Level the bolt pattern plate and use a square or torpedo level on the pipe multiple places around it get it right. Tack it and CHECK IT AGAIN!!! Once your welded up you can now cut the excess off and position it on the axle for alignment of the drive sprocket and chain. Rotate the chain and watch the sides of the chain for binding before welding the pipe sleeve to the axle.I used a square along the chain and sited the axle for 90 degrees.