OK… here ya go…..
This is a 150 with a 155BB kit, 30mm pumper carb , 30mm port matched aluminum intake , a p&p head with 30mm intake port, 28 mm exhaust port, large valve set and NYC performance springs. Using a 25mm Id exhaust with a straight through muffler.
This motor is almost 10 years old. A good old dependable workhorse. It’s been used and abused. Serves as my experimental platform and at the moment looking pretty rough. I’ve ran with packs of 250’s with no problem keeping up. They’ll out distance me on long open roads but on the trails…….
The carb installation is simple . The same technique was used on Masteryota’s Dazon so I see little or no difference using the technique in any swing arm configuration. Throttle cable and fuel line routing will depend on the model.
First remove the upper motor mount though bolt and spacer /sleeve. Replace the through bolt with a shorter bolt through each mount tab. A 3/8 x 1.5, ¾ washers and surelock nuts. .Make sure the bolt heads are facing in towards the center. That’s the hard part!
The rest is standard carb installation. My original rubber coupler was shot so I replaced the rubber coupler with some stuff found at the local DIY store. I cut the carb to intake coupler 3/8 “ longer to allow a little more wiggle room to get the carb positioned plus it afforded more surface contact area for the band clamps.
The carb sits in slightly cocked to the right get the accelerator pump base off the right side motor mount. The same rubber pipe is used to connect a 6” long velocity tube to the carb inlet. The stock airbox most likely will not supply enough air to this carb. I’m not 100% sure on this as I tossed the stock box years ago and started using the filter shown knowing these filters defiantly supply enough air. The velocity tube is a aluminum tapered unit 2” on the filter end down to 1,¾” on the carb end using a 2” opening UNI filter. You don‘t have to use this particular tube . A length of pvc same diameter as the carb opening works fine. UNI‘s come with different mount diameters so get one that fit’s the pipe. Fashion a mount to secure the velocity tube secure . This gives the carb extra needed support and keeps everything connected. The 30 is heavier than a 24mm. Vibrations and bumps can work the connections loose. This filter and tube system is a huge performance improvement over the stock box.
This thing can really suck some gas so go up to a minimum of 5/16 fuel line and a large capacity inline filter.
The vacuum line running from the intake nipple to the slide diaphragm on top of the carb can remain stock.
I don’t know how to help you on jetting. There are so many variables to account for it’s hard to say even where to start. Try starting with what’s in the carb and work from there? It’s not that difficult to get these 30mm dialed in. They react to changes very noticeably so it’s easy to tell which direction your headed. It does take patients, a lot of jet changes and the better part of a day’s fiddling with it to get it right.
keep in mind your now packing a large mass of air and fuel into the motor. Your not going to see much benefit without up grading the exhaust to let this load out! It will pay you to do the exhaust first as you will have to start all over on the jetting when changing the exhaust pipe.
This is all I can think of at the moment, any other questions, just ask.
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