When setting up the rack-n-pinion:Forget the steering wheel!! center the rack unit(same amount of gears showing on each side)with wheels not attatched at ball joints, Straighten the front tires, measure the steering arms to know if they're correct length. Any small change to the front end will make changes to the steering arm length-ie.ball joints,spindles,bent or warped A-arms,shocks,ball joints on the steering arms.Once you have a good measurement check the stock arms for a match. The ball joint needs at least 5 full threads in the arm- in a good set-up you should have 3 threads and then the nut exposed- very seldom does the ball joint need to be moved inwards after set-up. If the arms aren't within these guide lines cut the center of the arm- add or cut out the amount needed to get the right length and reweld. I put a small solid rod in mine to help keep it straight or you can sleeve the connection with a closely fitting tube.You are correct about the angle of the wheels when turned- left turn should have the left tire slightly turned more than the right tire-(inside tire about 3-5 dergrees more than the outside tire) same in reverse for right turn. If you carefully file or grind 2 new grooves in the rack on each end it will increase you're turning radius greatly.
The part I was asking if it was unscrewed was at the ball end of the rack where the steering arm is attatched, there are slots for a wrench to go (RH thread) remove this when welding on the steering arms so that the pinion portion doesn't get heated up and so you don't have to remove the unit from the buggy.Re-grease the rack liberally in the teeth and shafts both sides and run it back and forth to spread the grease to the pinion-add grease as needed to get it smooth and easy to turn.
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