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Old 02-01-2012, 06:03 PM
cuzn246 cuzn246 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 63
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I'm glad of the added comments on this topic. I have tried every technique and method previously recommended to no avail. I get almost the exact same symptoms and results as you, XMAN. Bubbles and some fluid but no braking action. My last few efforts were: disconnect the brake line(s) from the master, submerge that end in a container of fluid, and apply suction at the wheel fitting - tried it both with the hose end below the wheel, and then with it above. With it higher than the wheel, I got more fluid sucked into the wheel cylinder than when I did it with the hose end below the wheel, but still no braking action. Of course, I lost some of the prime in the master before I could reconnect the brake hose(s). BTW, this is a dual chamber Master Cylinder, with one chamber operating both front disks, and the other chamber handling the rear disk and the brake light switch.
Yesterday, I used the vacuum tool on the rear wheel cylinder, and voila! I got some brake action after sucking a combination of fluid and air. The machine is on jack stands with the wheels/tires and fenders off while I am dealing with this brake problem. Cranked the engine, put in gear, revved it up a little and the rear brake stopped the axle; not a good test, but an improvement.

Today, after giving up completely on this project, I was putting away all the tools and supplies - I glanced back through the instructions for the vac tool. Although it is not mentioned in the section on bleeding brakes, it can be modified to apply pressure. I redid the hose connections on the tool as directed, put fluid in the canister, snapped the rubber fitting on the bleeder valve at the left front wheel, pumped a little pressure, cracked the fitting, and immediately got a good stream of bubbles into the master cylinder reservoir. I continued, until the stream of air dwindled down to a small stream of almost frothy tiny bubbles, then a little more and only fluid was being pumped into the system. I immediately saw that the pads were all the way against the disk, then I applied the brake by hand and tried to turn that wheel hub. It was "BRAKED"! And so was the right front hub!

Now I realize this is not an adequate test of braking, no wheels, and on jack stands traveling ) mph, but it is the most positive thing that has happened in the last 10 days or so. I took a refreshment break, put on the wheels, got it off the jack stands, pushed out of the shop and fired 'er up. I have brakes. It seems like they are adequately firm, but probably have brake fluid on the pads and/or disks. After what I've been through, it's amazing that brake fluid doesn't cover this whole county. I drove it next door to my Mother's and it will stop; not perfectly, but I can stop. It may be a blessing that I don't have a place to drive it and really open it up.

Small orifices, not tight enough connections of bleeding/vacuum hoses on bleed fittings, poor bleeding techniques, accidents with containers of fluid, a combination of Black Magic and Voodoo, have all combined to make my life, and my wife's, miserable recently. I really appreciate all the help I have received from all of you out there.
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