150cc 4 valve head or Endrigo 2 valve?

[BEEFKING69]

Title says all....also would like to know where to get a decent stroker kit.

[jmansracerocket]

il put my 2 cents into this and you take it for you want. The 4 valve head to me isn't worth the money, even though I have never owned one. You have to buy the entire kit which isn't cheap $450-550 cant remember the price that's for a taida setup and I believe you still have to buy the piston to match. Also you might have to modify your exhaust and the head might get close to the back of your seat. The 2 valve endrigo to me is overpriced. The last 2 heads I purchased where off ebay and where both below $100, with big ports and oversized valves and upgraded valve springs. I did my own porting to them and ported the manifold to match and did a camshaft with the head. These 2 items are the best bang for the buck to get you started and once you do these 2 mods they will also accommodate any big bore or stroker that you do later down the road. Of course a nice flowing exhaust and breathing intake will also help.

[BEEFKING69]

Thx for the reply. The main reason im intrested is i found the 4v head for 280 minus the piston and thats bout the same as stage 2 endrigo. im kinda just itching to upgrade till i can find a 400 hondamatic.

Heres current list of upgrades.

Crossfire 150
Uni filter
Some sota ebay glasspack style muffler off a buggy at the junkyard
60mm jug with HC piston
Big port head with SS valves and titanium springs
A-12 cam
12g slider
yellow clutch springs
yellow contra
custom oil cooler
Mythical factory 26mm cv carb

Top Speed 45mph/41 with current 39 tooth sprocket

[jmansracerocket]

Maybe wildbob can chime in he has 2 different 4 valve heads in his hand maybe u can tell which route to take.

[wildbob]

Hiya!
I like the 4-valves, but you'll probably have to modify the exhaust, as both my Rumia/Hoca and the Taida 4V heads are clocked differently, and if I remember they use 8mm studs instead of 6mm, as well as needing a 4V piston. Another consideration (and might just be my setup), when I get on the gas, the torque causes the motor to compress the suspension in the rear, changing the level of the head and as a result it will puke oil out of the valve cover breather when I'm hard on the gas (always) or driving with complete disregard of personal safety (always). I've run the breather tube to a little Uni breather filter that tips in a plastic jug strapped to the chassis. I don't remember the stock head doing this, but I went mental pretty much right off the bat and upgraded everything..

[BEEFKING69]

Thx for the info bud. The one i was looking at was a hoca and itll be left stock. Now how did you go about making the shrouds fit?

[jmansracerocket]

u have some good mods already, doing 45mph with a 39 tooth sprocket doesn't sound correct though. next mod is maybe looking into a stroker crank and a true bore piston kit not sure if your case is bored or that's just a drop in 60mm kit you have.

[BEEFKING69]

Im definitely interested in a stroker kit. any info on where to buy reliable kits would be a great help. Thats 45 with the stock sprocket and 41 with the 39 i just put on. it has a non howit motor....im guessing HH cause it has the oil cooler holes (they was bypassed with a single short oil line).

The 60mm is just a drop in but id like to get a 61 or 62mm if i was to get a stroker kit. Now question is.....whats it gonna do to my rpms? as of now with 39T sprocket rpms hit between 9-9500 at 41 mph and ive had it to 10000. No clue on rpms before sprocket swap.

[jmansracerocket]

me personally I would put the 31 tooth sprocket back in those are very high rpms and that a stroker kit isn't going to like 10,000 rpms.

[BEEFKING69]

Yeah i would definitely put the 31 back on once i got the stroker.

[ckau]

Both the 4 valve and the Endrigo can generate a substantial gain in horse power. The gain in either is achieved by creating a larger volume of flow. In a 4 valve this is done by simply increasing the area of the flow tract, more valves =more flow area. Flow in the Endrigo is accomplished by altering the flow tract for maximum efficiency.
Neither is a "plug & play" item. In order to achieve maximum performance you will need a intake and carb with enough flow volume to fill the cylinder. You will also need a exhaust capable of extracting the increased volume as well. Correct jetting/tuning plays a big part. Without the matching intake/carb and exhaust you won't see any real gains. Using the correct sized components is extremely important.
Both have advantage and disadvantage. The 4 valve is a little more forgiving, It relies simply on sheer size of the head to accomplish the goal, so it will give some performance across across the rpm range. The endrigo as with most port jobs relies on correct velocity as well as volume so it only meets optimum performance in a much tighter rpm range where maximum velocity is achieved. IMO, the hp produced in that narrow band exceeds the 4 valve, Outside of that narrow band I believe the 4 valve may perform a little better,
The 4 valve needs component specific parts, cam chain, piston, cylinder studs, valve cover, cam and a unit specific exhaust pipe while the Endrigo uses common gy6 items.
The four valve isn't forgiving with extended top rpms. The Endrigo, based on the stock configuration is more rpm tolerant and prone to be more dependable.
Either way both will produce gains when set up correctly.
On a side note: Though it's really insignificant but most all hot rodders do take into consideration is the sound. That four valve has a very distinctive exhaust note. It sings "this ain't no stocker"! Personally, I do enjoy the tune that 4 valve plays! While with the Endrigo they won't know what you got until you blow'em away!

[xlint89]

You're getting some sound advice on your question from these guys.

Let me just add that the valve springs seem to be a weak link (in my case at least) when you start revving the engine that high. Valve float is an issue.

In one instance, I bent a valve (fortunately didn't damage head)

On the other, it was a completely destroyed head and piston.





So if you decide to spend some serious $$ and get a head set up, I suggest stepping up and getting QUALITY valve springs too. Talk to Tom at Syc Powersports for a good set of springs.

[scjeep4.7HO]

You just increased the flow rate of the crankcase ventilation system.

[BEEFKING69]

Thx guys thats the kinda info ive been looking for! And yeah after seeing that id definitely upgrade the springs lol.

[xlint89]

Originally Posted by scjeep4.7HO

You just increased the flow rate of the crankcase ventilation system.

Yep, no need for the head breather after that "MOD"

Compression...... Not so much!!!

Just an FYI: That was a P&P head. Lost a lot of $$ on that "mishap". Those were the NCY upgraded springs rated for 10k RPM. (roll eyes) Bought the springs from Tom and have been running hard ever since