Mods installed

[toomanytoys2]

Nick,

When you get all of the bugs worked out of this buggy, You do know what you have to do next - a Franken Buggy . I just got back from a weekend at the Pismo Dunes (took my Baja). I saw all kinds of RZRs, but when talking to the wife, I told her that even if I could afford one, I wouldn't buy one. There is always so much more satisfaction when you build your own projects, even if they are not as fast or pretty.

[SYCARMS]

Originally Posted by 2SlickNick

I have just been using the 87 octane which does contain 10% ethanol.

If your ethanol blended fuel is older then 2 weeks this can be your problem especially if bought from a smaller station who gets fuel less then once a week. I've done several posts where I explain how ethanol blend fuel starts to break down after 2 weeks. The best thing to do is go to pure-gas.org scrol to the bottom of page, click on your state abreviation then search for the closest station for the pure gas without ethanol. If put into a sealed metal Jerry can it will keep a good year without any stabil. This will solve the many problems associated with the ethanol blended fuel in our carbureted buggies.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by toomanytoys2

Nick,

When you get all of the bugs worked out of this buggy, You do know what you have to do next - a Franken Buggy . I just got back from a weekend at the Pismo Dunes (took my Baja). I saw all kinds of RZRs, but when talking to the wife, I told her that even if I could afford one, I wouldn't buy one. There is always so much more satisfaction when you build your own projects, even if they are not as fast or pretty.

Agreed. The project and sense of accomplishnent is worth much more.
I am on the hunt for a Franken buggy now. Whether it be a 150 frame and drop a cn250 in it or get a junk 250 and rebuild it.
Either way I don't really plan on paying more than $200 for a rolling chassis.
I have been searching only time will tell.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

If your ethanol blended fuel is older then 2 weeks this can be your problem especially if bought from a smaller station who gets fuel less then once a week. I've done several posts where I explain how ethanol blend fuel starts to break down after 2 weeks. The best thing to do is go to pure-gas.org scrol to the bottom of page, click on your state abreviation then search for the closest station for the pure gas without ethanol. If put into a sealed metal Jerry can it will keep a good year without any stabil. This will solve the many problems associated with the ethanol blended fuel in our carbureted buggies.

Well that can very well be my problem too. Seeing as how the gas is at least a month old. I will check on that and read up more on your posts, thanks.

[2SlickNick]

Well the closest station is 40 mins away in a direction I never go. But I do go to Pittsburgh from time to time which is an 1 hour 15 min away, just have to remember to bring at least a 5 gallon can.

[2SlickNick]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0J3YxJDao8Q
118 main top end bogs and fouls the plug.
maybe somehow I am allowing air in because plug isnt tight enough.
I am scared to strip out another head and start over. I need to go buy a damn torque wrench lol

[Johnny 5]

Have you tried another carb?

[2SlickNick]

No, but I am thinking about it.

[Johnny 5]

Have you taken the top of the carb off to see if the rubber diaphragm is not torn?

[SYCARMS]

Have you done a compression test on the engine? And have you checked that the spark is a bright blue in color?

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Johnny 5

Have you taken the top of the carb off to see if the rubber diaphragm is not torn?

Last time I did take carb apart was 2 months ago and all as fine.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Have you done a compression test on the engine? And have you checked that the spark is a bright blue in color?

Last time I checked spark it looked good, but sadly I have not done a compression test. I need to acquire one

[2SlickNick]

Just did a spark test and. It appeared Bright blue had some white too.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by 2SlickNick

Just did a spark test and. It appeared Bright blue had some white too.

Redid and actually it had some red and yellow with light blue, I will try my stock coil and see if that works better than cheap performance coil

[2SlickNick]

Stock coil had a stronger brighter spark. Night super bright blue , but blue.....

[SYCARMS]

That could be your problem. If weak when testing it could be breaking down at higher RPM's

[2SlickNick]

Will try it out today and hoping for the best. also I think advance auto parts rents out tools, so.....

[2SlickNick]

Well, looks like I need a new carb. will the 26mm still fit in a stock manifold and use the same jets sizes. or should I just get the stock 24mm?

[SYCARMS]

The stock carb should be a 26mm, scooters used the 24mm carbs. You just don't want to run the 30mm even with your mods cause it will be too much carburetor for your engine.

[2SlickNick]

Thanks again Tom.

[Masteryota]

Why do you think you need a new carb?

Also, what was the result of the different coil?

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Masteryota

Why do you think you need a new carb?

Also, what was the result of the different coil?

The stock coil gave me he same results
I want to buy a new carb because my carb's enrichment valve ( the one I made Manual ) took a crap. I over tightened it and when I removed it fell apart. My F.e.v seems to be an od size and style. Plus I think just having a new one would be nice to elimate that problem. I do plan on buying a compression tester within the week to check that too. And Tom I measured it is a 26mm

this is what my old one looked like, kind of uncommon.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aprilia-100c...item3a7fd26e3c

[2SlickNick]

Thinking about buying one of these cheapo carbs what do you guys think? One appears to be a keihin like mine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271328405463
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360785402056

[Johnny 5]

The first carb has japan on the bowl, keihin. I would go with the first choice.

[2SlickNick]

Thanks for the input.

[Masteryota]

If I had a choice, Keihin or Mikuni would be my first pick.

[SYCARMS]

The only thing I question is that the seller listed it as EPA approved. Anyone who has purchased a new buggy in the last few years know of the EPA approved carburetor where the bowl is riveted and there is no air fuel adjustment. The buggy companies such as Hammerhead, Trailmaster Kandi and ASW cannot sell individual components but only the complete EPA approved carb only aftermarket can sell the complete carbs. Second that is an awfully cheap price for a Keihn carb. I would have questions for the seller such as can the bowl be removed, a/f adjusted and if they are first grade or seconds. The older epa approved carbs had breakaway screw heads and a plugged a/f mix screw. As told by a recent customer of a 2013 buggy the bowl is riveted and has to be drilled and tapped but when tapping the metal just powders and cannot be threaded, the a/f plug has been replaced with some sort of filler that does not come out without messing up the carb. Just a warning to not buy something that is no better than what you currently have., no good if you can't rejet.

[2SlickNick]

I did order a couple days ago the 1st carb, I will let you guys know how all works out including carb and buggie. Thanks for all the replies.

[2SlickNick]

Okay everyone just a quick update.
The Carb did come in and......... it is a keihin it has screws and not rivets
As soon as I get a day off I will clean it, checks specs, and install it.

[Johnny 5]

SWEET, hope this is the fix.

[2SlickNick]

Update: Carb came with a larger pilot maybe a 40 and a smaller main jet.
Put 35 pilot in and a 120 main. and it started and idled great. Went through the throttle NO bog at all.
Took it for a ride and and it SCREAMED it ran better than ever before WOW.
I had used an old plug and it was way to lean. needless to say i think the problem was somewhere in the old carb.
I think now I can do proper jetting to get this beast tuned properly.

[Masteryota]

Sounds like you got it pretty close as it is, do small increments and get 'er dialed in.

So. Are you happy with the mods installed?

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Masteryota

Sounds like you got it pretty close as it is, do small increments and get 'er dialed in.

So. Are you happy with the mods installed?

Will try new plug tomorrow and if still lean bump it up to 122 main.

Today was the 1st time I actually felt all the mods work in unasyn. I felt happy with it. I think some new shoes on it will top it off to give me some traction in the woods. Maybe one day new shocks, but yes happy.

With this one running it makes wife, kids, and myself happy.
Now that enables be to find buggy #2

[Johnny 5]

Happy to see all you hard work and persistence paid off. As for rear tires we have the 22x10x10 cst ambush tires and love them. We paid 62.00 a tire and they have awesome traction and ride softer with the 5psi max over the 14 psi stock karet tires.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Johnny 5

Happy to see all you hard work and persistence paid off. As for rear tires we have the 22x10x10 cst ambush tires and love them. We paid 62.00 a tire and they have awesome traction and ride softer with the 5psi max over the 14 psi stock karet tires.

Thanks. I have been eyeballing that size. And keeping an eye out on CL for the 4-110 pattern front wheelsor tires from atv.

[Miamieddie]

Wow!!! Do yourself a favor, throw that old carb away as far as you can where no one will find it. Don't think about keeping it for parts or spare. I don't wish that carb on anyone. Just a heads up... glad you fixed your buggy.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Miamieddie

Wow!!! Do yourself a favor, throw that old carb away as far as you can where no one will find it. Don't think about keeping it for parts or spare. I don't wish that carb on anyone. Just a heads up... glad you fixed your buggy.

Right..... But part of me just can't ditch the old one.

[Masteryota]

Originally Posted by 2SlickNick

Right..... But part of me just can't ditch the old one.

Grab the jets out of it, and toss in the trash can. That Keihin will do all you need it to and more. The only other upgrade you can really do is switch to a pumper carb, but only time will tell.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Masteryota

Grab the jets out of it, and toss in the trash can. That Keihin will do all you need it to and more. The only other upgrade you can really do is switch to a pumper carb, but only time will tell.

My old one was a kenin it just took an odd ball size FEV. I was gonna rebuild it but saw the new carb for only a few bucks for than a rebuild kit.

[2SlickNick]

what do you guys think? Still to lean huh at the WOT with 122 main

[2SlickNick]

126 main still to lean but easier starting with the 138 pilot. Will try 130 main next.

[2SlickNick]

130 main still no color, not a spec on porcelain or threads of plug. I will try 134 next. I should probably oil my uni too. Not only to stop dust but restrict some air flow. I only have up to a 140 main if those don't work will try an outter cover filter on uni.

[Miamieddie]

Always use an outerwear. When using a uni. My rule of thumb.

[Miamieddie]

If she's running fine from idle thru mid to wot with no back fire nor bogging your OK. I've seen somewhere in the internet that your plug does not have to be brown for it to be right. A slight color is OK. Even white is OK. Maybe not good or very good but it's OK. Whatever you do on that new carb just make sure to count the turns on any screws you turn or you'll be right back to where you were with the old carb.

[Miamieddie]

These carb come pre tuned already from factory be cautious on your moves.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Miamieddie

If she's running fine from idle thru mid to wot with no back fire nor bogging your OK. I've seen somewhere in the internet that your plug does not have to be brown for it to be right. A slight color is OK. Even white is OK. Maybe not good or very good but it's OK. Whatever you do on that new carb just make sure to count the turns on any screws you turn or you'll be right back to where you were with the old carb.

Well, The 134 still drives and runs great. But i am still not getting a spec of color on the plug. I hope that is so, because i fear that I am running it way too lean now. .
I agree with the outter filter too.

[Miamieddie]

If you want to try bigger jet to add a little color go ahead. If it starts acting up slightly then put back original and leave it be.

[Masteryota]

Were you running the Uni dry before? That's a big no-no. I would start there beofre going too far with the jets. Like Eddie says, if the start and low end is ok, don't bother with the pilot.

I know engines will run good on a white plug, and leaner mixes result in more power, but at the cost of internal parts. With all your mods, you might go beyond the 140, but I doubt it. If all else fails, pop the 140 in and see if you get color.

[toomanytoys2]

I would raise the needle by moving the clip down one position and see if that helps. If the clip is not moveable, then you can put a small washer under the clip to raise the needle. The real problem is trying to jet a CV carb correctly. With the CV carb, the slide is not raised by the throttle cable, but by engine vacuum. So even when you have the pedal WO, most of the time you are still running on the needle, not the main jet. Therefore, you are really never sure when you are running on the main jet.

I bet it will help, because most of the time we are running on the needle unless the engine is winding it out to the max.

[Johnny 5]

When you do a jet run do you go wot for 50 or more yards and cut the ignition?

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Masteryota

Were you running the Uni dry before? That's a big no-no. I would start there beofre going too far with the jets. Like Eddie says, if the start and low end is ok, don't bother with the pilot.

I know engines will run good on a white plug, and leaner mixes result in more power, but at the cost of internal parts. With all your mods, you might go beyond the 140, but I doubt it. If all else fails, pop the 140 in and see if you get color.

I was running it dry I will oil it tonight. I want to make my internals last.

Originally Posted by toomanytoys2

I would raise the needle by moving the clip down one position and see if that helps. If the clip is not moveable, then you can put a small washer under the clip to raise the needle. The real problem is trying to jet a CV carb correctly. With the CV carb, the slide is not raised by the throttle cable, but by engine vacuum. So even when you have the pedal WO, most of the time you are still running on the needle, not the main jet. Therefore, you are really never sure when you are running on the main jet.

I bet it will help, because most of the time we are running on the needle unless the engine is winding it out to the max.

Funny thing is my old carb the needle did not come through. By that I mean my new carb the long main needle comes all the way through to the the main jet sleeve.
I have another main jet sleeve ( needle jet) that has a smaller inner diameter and has more holes on the barrel. the plug tip is no longer getting that scorched white color on the metal tip, maybe I am just running off the needle.
I looked on my old carb and I didnt see how you would adjust the needle


And Johny I am cutting engine on WOT .

[Johnny 5]

I was just wanting to make sure because more info is better.

[2SlickNick]

http://forum.highlifter.com/Basic-CV...-m1872049.aspx

This is very helpful but still not sure how to raise jet needle. Should
i leave it alone and just enjoy an awesome ride? or try the smaller I.D with more holes on barrel needle jet?

[Johnny 5]

I messed with the needle and it got worse, now I know it didn't work for me. If you are running good with a 134, oil the filter and try it. Don't mess with the needle yet, when I did I lost the clip and spent a hour looking for it.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Johnny 5

I messed with the needle and it got worse, now I know it didn't work for me. If you are running good with a 134, oil the filter and try it. Don't mess with the needle yet, when I did I lost the clip and spent a hour looking for it.

Ya I should just leAve it alone. It runs great the only thing I noticed is it seems to lack a tiny tiny bit of umphhh at WOT going up my long winddy hill. Then again that could just be the small loss of top end from the a12 cam.
Oh well.

[2SlickNick]

Just out of curiosity is this the little clip I am suppose to adjust by putting a washer in it?

[2SlickNick]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-Byj...e_gdata_player
Haha look what I found.
My old stock keinin carb ^ see above picture^ didn't have the adjustable needle.
I should probably just leave it alone
I have my low end and midrange I can't see me really winding it out on he trails anyways.

[Johnny 5]

Are you running 12 gram sliders still? May need to go down to 11g or mix 12g and 11g. My 155cc buggy with the A12 has lots of high rpm power but when I put the 10.5/12.5 rollers in my motorio dr2 it wouldn't climb very good. With the 9/10.5g combo it would spin the tires good and rev all the time but lacked acceleration. So now I am running 9/12.5g and it works but still a lot of rpm at cruise. Might be to much of a weight spread.

[2SlickNick]

I am still running 12g sliders. My hill is about 1/4-1/3 mile long. It goes up there fine at approx 25-30mph. just almost feel like it is missing a little bit of power.
I am gonna leave it for now and wait for warmer weather and see how it performs on trails and steep short inclines.

[toomanytoys2]

In your picture, you would install the washer in between the needle and the white plastic clip mechanism.

[2SlickNick]

I might end up doing that one DAY. i ENJOY JAVING A RUNNING BUGGY AT THE TIME. i JUST FEEL lost not knowing if I am to lean at this time.

[toomanytoys2]

How is the throttle response? Does the rpms climb rapidly when you open the throttle fast? Is there any popping or cracking coming from either the carb or the exhaust? If no popping and it accelerates with a quick stab at the throttle, then you can not be too lean. However, you may want to revisit the jetting when the weather gets hot. That is when you are more likely to do engine damage. However, if you are running slightly lean in cold weather, it may be pretty close when it is hot, since the oxygen molecules in the air are more dense when the weather is colder.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by toomanytoys2

How is the throttle response? Does the rpms climb rapidly when you open the throttle fast? Is there any popping or cracking coming from either the carb or the exhaust? If no popping and it accelerates with a quick stab at the throttle, then you can not be too lean. However, you may want to revisit the jetting when the weather gets hot. That is when you are more likely to do engine damage. However, if you are running slightly lean in cold weather, it may be pretty close when it is hot, since the oxygen molecules in the air are more dense when the weather is colder.

No popping or cracking, it does accelerate quickly with a punch of the throttle. Throttle response is good. No rapid rpm raise. I will double check again tomorrow with these specifics in mind. I rode today for about 30 minutes in the snow and it did very well. Thanks for the info.

[SYCARMS]

A few posts back it was mentioned about adjusting the needle. The CVK carb does not have an adjustable needle as the slide carb does. There are some tricks though but it would be easier for me to explain over the phone.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

A few posts back it was mentioned about adjusting the needle. The CVK carb does not have an adjustable needle as the slide carb does. There are some tricks though but it would be easier for me to explain over the phone.

I take it that I am only using 75% of my available power since I am not even using the main jet
because I get the same performance with a 120 main as I do with 134 main.
I did notice however that with the 120-126 mains the plug metal tip did become scorched white.
The 134 main still does not put any color on the porcelain, but after running it for a 1/2 hour today and a 1/2 hour yesterday on that same plug ( cleaned it with brush) I am now picking up a small amount of black around the base ring ( see below picture, There is some residual scorch white on tip ).


I could try the 140 main, but I am just not feeling like going in the carb again unless I have to ( I think I have had the carb off at least 100 times since starting this thread )

If you think i should adjust something and do a TRICK with the carb, I will do it.
I can give you a call tomorrow if you don't mind. What would be a good time for you?

[Miamieddie]

The top part of your plug shaped like an elbow looks like the heat exchange is at mid point. That's good. The black on base ring goes completely around the ring that's good. Now if your buggy is running good although the porcelain looks white your probably fine. But for safety sake try a bigger main jet and see what happens. If it adds color but acts up put back the jet you just removed and leave it. If it adds color and runs good then that's even better. But don't touch anything else. It all looks good.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Miamieddie

The top part of your plug shaped like an elbow looks like the heat exchange is at mid point. That's good. The black on base ring goes completely around the ring that's good. Now if your buggy is running good although the porcelain looks white your probably fine. But for safety sake try a bigger main jet and see what happens. If it adds color but acts up put back the jet you just removed and leave it. If it adds color and runs good then that's even better. But don't touch anything else. It all looks good.

I should try the bigger main, just lacking the motivation to do it again. Appreciate the input. I was thinking the plug looked god else wise too.

[Johnny 5]

What was the stock jet and what Jet are you running now?

[Johnny 5]

As for a adjustable needle the carb on my wifes buggy has 4 positions and it is on the 3rd clip.

[Johnny 5]

Keep the air filter oiled and have fun. If it was super lean you would hear a jiffy pop corn sound from the motor on load. How do you like the big port head?

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Johnny 5

What was the stock jet and what Jet are you running now?

The new carb: The main that jet and needle jet were unlabeled. The pilot was larger than my 38.
I put i 38 pilot, used the needle jet from my old carb which has a larger inner diameter hole but a few less holes on the barrel. And I have the 134 main in now.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Johnny 5

As for a adjustable needle the carb on my wifes buggy has 4 positions and it is on the 3rd clip.

I haven't checked this needle yet unless I need too.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Johnny 5

Keep the air filter oiled and have fun. If it was super lean you would hear a jiffy pop corn sound from the motor on load. How do you like the big port head?

I cleaned filter and used some super tacky PJ1 spray.
I am pleased with the big port head. If money wasn't such an issue I would have sent it to Tom for a P&P. but so far so good.

[SYCARMS]

Originally Posted by 2SlickNick

I take it that I am only using 75% of my available power since I am not even using the main jet
because I get the same performance with a 120 main as I do with 134 main.
I did notice however that with the 120-126 mains the plug metal tip did become scorched white.
The 134 main still does not put any color on the porcelain, but after running it for a 1/2 hour today and a 1/2 hour yesterday on that same plug ( cleaned it with brush) I am now picking up a small amount of black around the base ring ( see below picture, There is some residual scorch white on tip ).


I could try the 140 main, but I am just not feeling like going in the carb again unless I have to ( I think I have had the carb off at least 100 times since starting this thread )

If you think i should adjust something and do a TRICK with the carb, I will do it.
I can give you a call tomorrow if you don't mind. What would be a good time for you?

I have a doctors appointment tomorrow morning so anytime after noon will be fine.

[2SlickNick]

I'll have to get at you another time. I love being called in to work. " Not"

[SYCARMS]

No problem just call when you can, and if you should get the answering machine just make sure to leave a message and I'll get back to you. You can call most anytime since my business line also rings at the house.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by toomanytoys2

I would raise the needle by moving the clip down one position and see if that helps. If the clip is not moveable, then you can put a small washer under the clip to raise the needle. The real problem is trying to jet a CV carb correctly. With the CV carb, the slide is not raised by the throttle cable, but by engine vacuum. So even when you have the pedal WO, most of the time you are still running on the needle, not the main jet. Therefore, you are really never sure when you are running on the main jet.

I bet it will help, because most of the time we are running on the needle unless the engine is winding it out to the max.

Okay I raised needle ? my carb is he exact carb as in the video I posted there.
It was on he 2nd to last spot I put it to the last spot. Hoping for good results in morning

[2SlickNick]

Nope, raising needle gave me mid throttle surge. Back to where it was I guess. Then try 136 main.

[toomanytoys2]

Just to be clear, when you moved the clip, you moved it down towards the needle point itself. right? If that is correct, then you ended up with a rich surge. The problem with jetting advise over the internet, is not being there in person. You can get a lean surge (running out of fuel), or a rich surge (too much fuel) and without being there, it is hard to find out which is which.

I personally hate CV carbs, I know why they use them, but jetting one is far more difficult then a carb with just a slide or butterflies.

2Slick, what type of elevation and temperature are you running at? My motor is a 170 BBK, versus your 155. I am also running the A12 cam (that I got from Tom), and my engine runs spotless from 0 feet (where I live) to the high desert (3500 feet) where it is run most of the time. My temperature readings vary from 80 degrees to the 30s (Christmas in the dessert) .

If you would like, I can pull off my carb and see what jets I am running. I have a jet chart for all of my dirt bikes, plus all 3 of my VWs with dual Webers, but I never made one for my buggy, let me know.

Jetting is part science and part art. It is actually becoming a lost art with the introduction of FI. Even in the VW crowd, most people just throw a wideband AF meter at it, and go from there.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by toomanytoys2

Just to be clear, when you moved the clip, you moved it down towards the needle point itself. right? If that is correct, then you ended up with a rich surge. The problem with jetting advise over the internet, is not being there in person. You can get a lean surge (running out of fuel), or a rich surge (too much fuel) and without being there, it is hard to find out which is which.

I personally hate CV carbs, I know why they use them, but jetting one is far more difficult then a carb with just a slide or butterflies.

2Slick, what type of elevation and temperature are you running at? My motor is a 170 BBK, versus your 155. I am also running the A12 cam (that I got from Tom), and my engine runs spotless from 0 feet (where I live) to the high desert (3500 feet) where it is run most of the time. My temperature readings vary from 80 degrees to the 30s (Christmas in the dessert) .

If you would like, I can pull off my carb and see what jets I am running. I have a jet chart for all of my dirt bikes, plus all 3 of my VWs with dual Webers, but I never made one for my buggy, let me know.

Jetting is part science and part art. It is actually becoming a lost art with the introduction of FI. Even in the VW crowd, most people just throw a wideband AF meter at it, and go from there.

Correct. I did move the clip towards the needle tip/ bottom which indeed raised the needle approximately 1-2mm. I had the middle throttle surge.( so must have been a rich surge)

I put clip back to where it started. Then put a 136 main jet in. That 136 main gave me top end surge. ( so I guess I am actually using the main jet)

I went back to the 134 main because I know that does not create any surge. While putting the 134 main back in I decided I will change my needle jet to see how it does. ( the needle jet i was using had a larger inner diameter hole and had 6 holes along the barrel. I put in the needle jet with the smaller I.D. and 8 holes along the barrel) That gives me pretty much the same performance but just a little increase of rumble in the exhaust after releasing throttle.

I am in northern West Virginia. I believe our approx elevation is 700' currently 40 degrees.
I appreciate the offer but, please don't go through the hassle of removing your carb
Even though you guys are not here to help, you have been a wealth of knowledge.
Maybe I am crazy and this is my peak performance. I mean it does well, I just feel like I am missing a little umphhh. Well that and some color on my plug.
I really should just leave it until 60 degree weather and see what happens

[Miamieddie]

I agree on waiting for 60 degree. Spring is knocking on the door .

[toomanytoys2]

Unfortunately, it has never really left us out here in CA. That means super dusty trails, but even worse, a bad fire season and water concerns for the summer.