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| 150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum |
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#1
12-08-2011, 02:12 PM
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Coyote 150 Brake Safety Switch Starting Issue
Hi-
just bought a year old Kazuma Coyote 150 for my boy (Xmas) previous owner said it ran fine when parked 4 months ago (they sold the farm and have no where to ride now) Just won't start. turns over but doesn't fire... I have fuel and a good spark, but it is my understanding that the brake pedal must be depressed (hydraulic pressure safety switch) to start the buggy. The instructions from Kazuma say #3. Hold the brake when you start the bike.(for 110cc deluxe and 150cc and 250cc),and make sure tail light is ON, if not, you have to bypass the brake switch. But with the ignition on and the brake depressed the tailight doesn't come on. I bypassed the brake safety switch and still nothing... I'm guessing the tailight not coming on is related somehow? Need some HELP... Thanks, Mike 
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#2
12-08-2011, 04:34 PM
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How did you get it to turn over? Did you check for spark while it was turning over?
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#3
12-08-2011, 04:44 PM
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It turns over with a good spark and new plug. the brake light safety switch is acting like a kill switch...
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#4
12-08-2011, 07:09 PM
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So when you push the brake it kills the spark? When you disabled the switch what happens?Are you plugging the 2 wires into each other when you disable it?
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#5
12-09-2011, 01:46 AM
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You got me a bit confused, let us know these two things 1) Does it turn over and have spark with the pedal pressed. 2) does it turn over and have spark with out the pedal pressed. Give us the answer to both questions and we'll get you going.
TOM
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#6
12-09-2011, 08:24 AM
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Ok-
I cleaned the terminals on the brake switch and now I have the tailight working with the brake pedal depressed. good spark and gas to the carb. this has been sitting 4-5 months- guessing the electric chock and/or carb is clogged at this point?
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#8
12-16-2011, 09:38 AM
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ok- I'm at wits end and have 9 days to get this running...
1. have good spark with new plug @.26 2. new fuel from the tank to the carb 3. Carb was just gone through by a local mechanic w/30yrs experience 4. not sure if the brake safety switch is working correctly so I jumped it to make sure... cranks and cranks but no boom! Ideas? Last edited by needforspeed; 12-16-2011 at 10:26 AM.
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#9
12-16-2011, 11:41 AM
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How are you checking the spark?, at wire or at plug. It's best to pull the plug and ground it to engine then observe spark. It should be bright blue, not bluish white or yellow but bright blue. Once you determine that good spark is present the next is the fuel. Since you have been cranking on it fuel should be in carb bowl. Open the drail at bottom of bowl to make sure fuel is comming out about 2-3 ounces. If fuel bowl is filling then carb is getting fuel. Provided you have good compression and valve lash is set correctly it should start unless carb is plugged. You must remember that you purchased a used unit. It's been my experiance that people will tell you anything to sell something. For this reason if the equiptment I am looking at will not run then they can either get it running or I will offer the lowest ball price for it. Make all those checks I mentioned and give us the results. Also what does it do when using starting fluid, and what process did the mechanic use in cleaning the carb. Not trying to agitate you, its just the buggy is not in front of me so I need as much accurate information as possible to help. Remember it's very simple that when fuel and air is present a good spark will make it go boom everytime on a mechanically sound engine. If one of the 3 are not present or insufficient it will not go boom most of the time. Take some deep breaths walk away for a while then check the above and if you like give me a call @ 662-301-1563 and well get it running for you if at all possible before Christmass.
TOM
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#10
12-16-2011, 12:55 PM
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I am checking the spark at the plug. have a 1/4"-3/8" jump to the frame ( not sure I can tell the difference between bright Blue and Bluish white.
the carb guy knows his stuff- plenty of gas in the bowl Compression- I stuffed my pinkie in there and cranked it over-it blew it out of the hole to the point where I could feel the air on my face at arms length away- so I'm guessing that is good. No idea about valve lash? Starting fluid- have sprayed some in and cranked it over but doesn't fire or pop? Just cranked it over for 10-15 seconds multiple times I finally had a backfire... Thanks! Mike (Sad Santa in KY)
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#11
12-18-2011, 08:58 AM
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still at a loss...
maybe the valve needs adjustment? also- should the headlights come on with the ignition on or only when it's running? with the ignition on the horn and fuel gauge works but the lights won't come on. wondering if that might be something to check? thanks
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#12
12-18-2011, 11:50 AM
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Some will come on with ign. switch and some will come on when running, depends on stator and how it is wired. Before you can trouble shoot an engine it must be known if it is sound. Using ones finger to check compression does nothing to tell the state of compression 50psi will blow past ones finger but won't be enough for the engine to run. If a valve is adjusted too tight there will be loss of compression. As stated in the previous post there is no magic in solving the problem as to why it won't start. You have to go step by step and isolate the proiblem.
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#13
12-19-2011, 11:51 AM
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okay-
almost zero compression. looks like a rebuild or new engine. I am trying to get this running for Xmas so a new drop in engine is the only way this is going to happen. where do I buy a complete engine that bolts right up? (Kazuma Coyote 150) would this Howhit from BMI work? http://www.*************/item/Mounted...ed-200670-6579
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#14
12-19-2011, 12:24 PM
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Yes it should fit perfect-It's actually a better engine than the Kazuma one. Does yours have reverse?
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#15
12-19-2011, 01:02 PM
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yes, it has reverse
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#17
12-20-2011, 11:52 AM
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The engine in his buggy uses a different type of external reverse which bolts right to the casing. The rev. box is the rear mount for the engine. The case is different in the rear so the usual yerf type GY6 will not adapt to the reverse box used. The buggy would need fab work for the basic GY6 to work, along with a new rev unit install.
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