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  #1  
Old 06-27-2013, 08:07 PM
baker3 baker3 is offline
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Default Hammerhead hesitation

So lately I have been noticing that my buggy bogs down when the gas is initially depressed. It hesitates then takes off and on moderate hills that I used to fly up, it feels like it is struggling to maintain RPM's. Anyone have some input where to begin troubleshooting?
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:40 AM
mb1134 mb1134 is offline
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May be running too rich in the warm weather. Mine acts like that when i take it to the trails about 1000 feet higher in elevation and dont rejet it to a smaller jet size.
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  #3  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:09 AM
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There are three stages in these cv carbs we have on these buggies. That bog in the middle is usually caused by the 2nd stage. A google search for cv carb tuning will yeild some good artcles on this.
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:16 AM
baker3 baker3 is offline
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I did some searching and from what I have read and like mb1134 said, I should rejet due to the warmer weather right?
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:29 AM
mb1134 mb1134 is offline
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you could try that. it may not be the problem though. You can try a size or 2 smaller jet to see if that works. I havent rejetted mine yet, but i will when i take it back up there to ride to see if it makes a difference.
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Trailmaster XRX 150
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Hammerhead 250GTS
White Torque and Clutch Springs, 18g Rollers, R2C Filter, Ported Polished and Shaved Head, Hammerhead Exhaust
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  #6  
Old 06-28-2013, 10:12 AM
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Carbide-Ohio Carbide-Ohio is offline
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I'm having the same problem right now with my Carbide 150. I can tell you with mine, it's not a jetting issue as we've tried over 30 combinations. Waiting on a new CDI and regulator to see if it'll remedy the problem.
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:58 AM
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The main jet only affects the acceleration at wide open throttle. If you are experiencing this problem at takeoff it is NOT the main jet. Either there is a slight air leak somewhere, a bit of trash in the carb somewhere, the pilot needs adjusted, or the needle and jet in the second stage needs adjusted. Even improper float level can affect the carb working right. One hard jolt such as landing from a jump or something similar can get the float valve out of adjustment and even a 1-2mm difference in this setting can have an adverse affect on the carb. try removing and cleaning the carb. remove the pilot screw ( noting first how many turns out from completely seated it is ) and blow out inside of there. Here is a link to a good description of tuning these carbs.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.dmg&cad=rja
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MXR TrailBender 160R

SYC Perf head P&P,Matched intake and exhaust, A12 cam, Orange CDI & coil, Motorio pulley, 115mm Variator and lightweight drive face,11gm Sliders, UNI, modded muffler + 200 horsepower

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hx-hEWl10c
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Old 06-28-2013, 01:38 PM
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Miamieddie Miamieddie is offline
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If it was running fine before and its not now. clean ur filter and check for air leaks first. if nothing than clean ur carb. before changing or adjusting anything. just a thought.
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:34 PM
baker3 baker3 is offline
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As miamieddie suggested, I started with the simple things. I just checked the spark plug and when removing the wire, the whole "head" of the plug came off leaving a screw exposed on the the plug. Is this normal?
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:33 PM
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just screw the tip back on. They do screw on.
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SYC Perf head P&P,Matched intake and exhaust, A12 cam, Orange CDI & coil, Motorio pulley, 115mm Variator and lightweight drive face,11gm Sliders, UNI, modded muffler + 200 horsepower

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hx-hEWl10c
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:17 PM
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Yup just screw it on and lets rock!!!!!
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Old 06-29-2013, 04:08 AM
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Take a close look at your connector. Some will clamp on the round tip of the plug, as traditionally in a car. Others require that plug tip to be removed and clamp the threaded stud. These grip the threads for more holding power in a high vibration circumstance. IE, mowers, industrial equipment, more preferable and secure connection.
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:54 AM
baker3 baker3 is offline
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Well, I think I found the problem. One of my clamps on the fuel petcock was off so maybe it was causing a vacuum leak. Seems to be running better but time will tell. I hope it's nothing that involves taking apart the carb. Not looking forward to that.
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  #14  
Old 07-01-2013, 06:30 AM
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Just replaced my CDI and Regulator and it's back to running great! No more hesitation or popping on acceleration.
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  #15  
Old 12-19-2013, 12:50 PM
Talon12 Talon12 is offline
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Default popping

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbide-Ohio View Post
Just replaced my CDI and Regulator and it's back to running great! No more hesitation or popping on acceleration.
Not trying to high jack this thread. But I have a talon 150cc and I have replaced the following items.

Carb
intake
air box
stator 8 pole
fly wheel
rectifer
coil
plug
fuel pump
adjusted valves

and it still pops when you floor it. If you drive it a half throttle it runs good and smooth, if you mash the pedel to the floor it starts breaking up and will not accellerate. You have to back off to part throttle.

I ordered a CDI but I had to order a waring harness adapter and I am waiting on it to come in so I can use the new CDI. It has oval plugs where my factory wire has sqare plugs. Both are AC cdi's.

Any ideas if I am chasing the correct thing? Hope to find out what is causing this soon. Buggy cranks right up and idles great. Will run great until you go pass half throttle....I even pulled the new carb off and checked the jets to make sure they are not plugged....It is not the carb....where to look now? Or am Im on the right track? Here is a picture of the cdi I have. The orange one is the new one and the black one is the factory one. And the wiring harness is what I had to get to make it a plug and play installation.
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File Type: jpg 20131217_152435 (Medium).jpg (61.1 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg cdi-wiring-harness.jpg (17.5 KB, 1 views)
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  #16  
Old 12-19-2013, 01:39 PM
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Masteryota Masteryota is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talon12 View Post
Not trying to high jack this thread. But I have a talon 150cc and I have replaced the following items.

Carb
intake
air box
stator 8 pole
fly wheel
rectifer
coil
plug
fuel pump
adjusted valves

and it still pops when you floor it. If you drive it a half throttle it runs good and smooth, if you mash the pedel to the floor it starts breaking up and will not accellerate. You have to back off to part throttle.

I ordered a CDI but I had to order a waring harness adapter and I am waiting on it to come in so I can use the new CDI. It has oval plugs where my factory wire has sqare plugs. Both are AC cdi's.

Any ideas if I am chasing the correct thing? Hope to find out what is causing this soon. Buggy cranks right up and idles great. Will run great until you go pass half throttle....I even pulled the new carb off and checked the jets to make sure they are not plugged....It is not the carb....where to look now? Or am Im on the right track? Here is a picture of the cdi I have. The orange one is the new one and the black one is the factory one. And the wiring harness is what I had to get to make it a plug and play installation.
You would likely get a better response with your own thread, but here is a tip. If you are popping at WOT(wide open throttle) then look at your main jet size. Sounds like you may need to go a size or two larger. Buy at least one new spark plug and do a wot snap test, pull the plug and look at the ceramic insulation around the electrode post. if it darker than chocolate brown, you are rich and need to drop the main jet down. If it has no color or light tan, then you are lean, and need to open the main jet up, either by replacing it, or if you are confident, you can use small drill bits to open in up manually, and then buy just the one jet you need.
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