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  #1  
Old 12-09-2014, 12:05 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Question Big bore install help!!!

Ok make it short and sweet...pulled head off to put big bore kit on, but it won't work...case is already machine to 62.88mm any more and I would be into timing chain area...it has 1.439 of material left there...my big bore kit jug is 64.89 outside diameter part that slides into case... question is should I take material off at outside of jug. There is alot of material there?????? Thanks all
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  #2  
Old 12-09-2014, 05:25 PM
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I wouldn't bore it anymore I had no luck with the big bore it didn't last much at all but that's a long story. good luck maybe post some pics and some one else can help
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Old 12-09-2014, 09:40 PM
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I could be wrong but I thought I read somewhere that there were two different style blocks. One could take the big bore kit and the other couldn't.

Again I may be wrong but I think I read it somewhere.
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Old 12-10-2014, 12:24 AM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Yes u are right there is two different styles..(maybe even more) dont know do we.we I have read that everyone's BBK fail prematurely due to either overheating of engine block in that area, or piss poor build..(mine will be redneck built) lol.so I have decided to mill off material of the bottom of the piston sleeve. Even if I mill mine it will have just about same as what's coming off... And if it don't work well hopefully block will hold up to piston over heating sleeve. I'll keep all posted....
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Old 12-10-2014, 07:46 AM
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the big bore cases are taida. The stock style gy6 cases have been bored up to 63mm but its not reliable at all. Cylinder walls get way to thin for a air cooled engine, and the studs are exposed to the cylinder with no or very little meat which these bore kits should not even be recommended if you ask me. My next build will be a taida engine which allows for up to a 67mm bore!
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Old 12-10-2014, 12:52 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Ok so I have milled the sleeve or jug down..it is now outside diameter of 62.85 give or take a thousand or two...i had to bevel the case just a hair to when he'd sat down that is seated all the way..i am also p&p the head and intake boot...i will post pics of head and all in a couple days I should have it going by Friday the latest.
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Old 12-11-2014, 12:55 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Ok got head and put back on... Temp installed exhaust. Went to start but forgot to install spark plug. Lol. Ok after a few tries it fired...but not sure...wife demanded me in lol...so I have question on my flywheel I have a few lines plus an A and F when setting timming where should the notch line up

63mm bbk plus a9 cam and head assy....also high compression piston race cdi and coil that's what's installed
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:08 PM
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take some pics if you can, some flywheels are different with there marks I try to make sure the piston is set at tdc, along with the cam marks
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:24 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Ok...i do know how to do tdc and all my question is does any one know what they mean ...being I changed angle love that means valves stay open and closed difrent than stock so in theory the time will change too. Like do I advance or retard the timing...thanks all pics I would live to but I can not figure it out from my phone.
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Old 12-13-2014, 10:55 AM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Ok....thanks all...

After pulling valve cover off and rechecking tdc I found that I must of installed cam 180 out...also I moved the timing of all FWD about 1/32 so that would be above the t mark..gaped valves both at .005....put it all back together and she fired right up took here for a ride this morning and damn the pull. And power constant through out... But I think there is some improvement..to be had..ill get video of it running this afternoon...
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Old 12-13-2014, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buggymike1976 View Post
Ok...i do know how to do tdc and all my question is does any one know what they mean ...being I changed angle love that means valves stay open and closed difrent than stock so in theory the time will change too. Like do I advance or retard the timing...thanks all pics I would live to but I can not figure it out from my phone.
Usually there is "F" and "T" stamped on the flywheel. The "T" is for finding tdc. The "F" is for setting ignition timing. When you mentioned "angle love", I am guessing you meant lobe angle seperation of the cam. This has to do with cam timing, not ignition timing.
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Old 12-13-2014, 12:58 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Lol yes I did mean lobe...damn phone always changes words....ok advancing timing that's fine to....i think I have to readjust valves...ok so if there is any particular way of set up I could use advise..my exhaust is still stock and the jets are still stock with stock breather...but I need breather box for mudding purposes..i do have after market air filter..would gutting exhaust make that much different for the amount of noise ....thanks
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Old 12-13-2014, 01:55 PM
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I would start with stock timing. Advancing and retarding the timing is usually a trade off. When advancing, you will get better top end power at the expense of low end power. You get the opposite when you back the timing off.
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Old 12-13-2014, 06:34 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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The timing is great...lol it will spin tires at take off. I topped at 42 but I have more to go..i tan out of road in my subdivision... So do you know about gutting the exhaust if it makes difference. I have to re gap valves I hear a little chatter
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:21 PM
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what gearing you running? if you still have stock exhaust drill the end of the exhaust to open up the flow the stock exhaust is very restrictive or get in touch with jersey devil on here he makes custom ones or go with a hammerhead which I use but its expensive. What buggy do u have ? post some pics
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Last edited by jmansracerocket; 12-13-2014 at 07:24 PM.
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  #16  
Old 12-13-2014, 09:00 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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I / my daughter has hammerhead twister older model..i think its 39t on axle I do not know what's on motor. I'll open up and take all the j pipe out . But I need to try to keep it quiet. As soon as I get my computer up and going... Thanks all does any one know if lack of back pressure will affect the way it runs or re jetting
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Old 12-14-2014, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buggymike1976 View Post
I / Thanks all does any one know if lack of back pressure will affect the way it runs or re jetting
yes it will affect performance. As a rule... more back pressure= more bottom end , less = more top end. Subtle changes in pressure moves the power band up or down without effecting jetting. Drastic changes as in gutting a muffler most likely will affect jetting.
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Old 12-14-2014, 08:54 AM
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I honestly cant see how u could be getting a top speed of 42mph with a 39 tooth sprocket. What are you using to test your speed?
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Old 12-14-2014, 09:19 AM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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GPS .....tested in vehicle first..to check accuracy and its spot on..and I also said I believe its 39t. But ill go out and count as I'm talking..also I believe it can go faster but like I said in earlier post I ran out of road... Ok counted and its 32t


I'm looking for more bottom end than top so when I build exhaust should make sure it has some back pressure....
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Old 12-14-2014, 09:23 AM
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gps isn't 100 percent as it triangulates measurement. but with a 32 tooth sprocket and a9 cam you sound correct
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Old 12-14-2014, 09:24 AM
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if you want more bottom end you can change that camshaft or even your rollers in your cvt
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  #22  
Old 12-14-2014, 03:28 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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63mm bbk plus a9 cam and head assy....also high compression piston race cdi and coil that's what's installed
Clutch is yellow 1500 spring 1500 clutch springs 10g slides..stock belt...

I want a12 cam but I'm not spending that...not yet..my daughter has hard enough controlling the rear end as it is..but it runs like a raped ape.
Its more along the lines of trying to see what I can build at house for exhaust...it seems to run really good with stock and I keep hearing peps say open it up makes more of difference..
Thanks for replys
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Old 12-14-2014, 04:11 PM
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that's a nice setup, if your running stock exhaust u will see a nice gain once you open up that stock exhaust, did you also port the manifold ?
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Old 12-14-2014, 04:45 PM
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Yes port and polished both intake and exhaust..well tried to match the intake elbow to..but it was hard with the rubber that's in there to..ill buy alum one after Xmas...

I was thinking of cutting it open gutting almost all beside the reading material and then add steel wool and making where I can say add more or less to aid in back pressure.
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Old 12-14-2014, 04:47 PM
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Ohhhh yeah still running stock breather box with aftermarket filter
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Old 12-14-2014, 05:39 PM
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Oh man ur Def leaving some power on the table, stock air box along with stock exhaust do both of those and u will have to rejet and gain more power!
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Old 12-14-2014, 07:27 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Ok we play in mud alot, so is there a mud optional air filter...and if I do change exhaust and intake where is a good number on re-jet I should start with oh i live in middleburg florida ... I believe temp and altitude has affect on jetting ....and what is your thought on exhaust...build..
Thank you mike
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Old 12-14-2014, 08:27 PM
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um, not sure what elevation you are in Florida, and Florida air is def different to ny air. I know they make a sock that goes over the filter for people that like to ride in heavy mud and water, and like I said before about the exhaust try opening up your stock one some, or contact jersey devil on here or try hammerhead exhaust, If I could do it over again I would try jersey devils exhaust first. His exhaust size matches the exhaust port on the heads and continues at the same size pipe onto a muffler the stock one is smaller in diameter. I believe he sells them for a pretty reasonable price. Ive had the hammerhead exhaust for a couple of yrs now and do like it but its double the price of jd's. Either way keep updating us
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Old 12-15-2014, 06:05 PM
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Default pics finally

MY Daughters machine just put those tires on today have new front ones to
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:00 PM
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holy crap those tires are huge !!!
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:17 PM
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Yeah with stock front tires and in woods if u give it gas well it pushes you straight...u really floor it and ass will kick out lol maybe to big but it will look good when I put fronts on...

I believe were barely above sea level lol humid as all hell.. Like this weekend ice on windows we got up and left to ride and than by 11 its damn hot In shorts again...so ill get a kit of jets and build redneck exhaust ill put pics up now

Ohhh if you look in top right corner spell check has been hit so you all seeing stuff LOL
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:31 PM
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lmao, yeah what size are those ? stock rears are 22 inch
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:47 PM
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Ummm I think 25, but my stock were 19 I had like 3 inch ground clearance.. On aluminum itp's.. Ohhh you still running the PVC intake if so what size and connection type.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:07 PM
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Well u Def gained alot of top end with the bigger tire but lost some down low and lost a little power takes power to rotate a bigger tire. Yes I run the pvc intake all I did was bring my filter into home depot along with the rubber outlet and went to the plumbing section and matched it up I bought a 12 inch piece for like $3 dollars then just cut it to about 6 and a half inches.
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Last edited by jmansracerocket; 12-15-2014 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 12-16-2014, 05:58 PM
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Default front tires

Ok so put the front tires on and I'm off ground now lol...but the distance I hit 42 before tires I can only get 36 ..but that's alright I don't need speed...
Does any one else sell 39 tooth sprocket. Or how about knowing what chain is on twister.. Below is link to buggy with 22 in from 25'in rear

http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/al...pictureid=2537
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Old 12-16-2014, 06:36 PM
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530 motorcycle chain 50 industrial chain. You could put a smaller pinion on it to get some of that torque you lost.

It takes some rigging but a 1 inch keyed sprocket can be made to work. The one I use had 2 key slots and a set screw for each. Had to do a little grinding on the key and used locktight on the set screw but it worked great. IIRC I went with a 13 tooth.
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Old 12-16-2014, 08:10 PM
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with the 39 tooth sprocket ur going to be doing about 30mph for top speed just so u know. will take off quick but just no mid range or top end when I tried the 39 tooth sprocket that's just me though. I bought mine from here

http://mpsracing.net/oem-150cc-drive...-some-250.html
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Old 12-16-2014, 08:28 PM
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With a 13 and a 39 my stock speedo was over 40 mph with taller than stock rear tires. I did lighten it quite a bit though.
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Old 12-16-2014, 09:27 PM
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Jman...did you change ur pinion sprocket or was it stock. Ohh and were you still running 11g sliders, I'm curios about if u went back up to 12 or 13 gram sider. Would u get some mide range back....

Liduno....how was low end ...i need to almost be able to put front tires against wall, floor the gas and it try to climb....lmao right now I can climb over about 13 or 14 Inch log from stand still almost... Ohhh welding grinding and fabricating no problem for me, that's what I do for a living besides on aircraft all types...

Thank you all
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Old 12-16-2014, 10:15 PM
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39 tooth sprocket and 16 tooth pinion and 10 gram sliders was about 30 mph. My favorite combo on the yerf for a none bore engine was a 10 gram roller, 31 tooth sprocket, 13 pinion, no reverse, a-11 cam with intake and exhaust, 1500rpm spring, stock clutch, it was pretty fun, and would do about 36mph with 22 rear tires. Another combo I had with that big bore and stroker with the 39 tooth sprocket and 16 pinion and 16 gram rollers, 1500rpm spring, kidnme clutch, a-11cam was about 32mph but was quick as hell, could spin the tires from a dead stop and with a stock carb!, again with exhaust and intake. It really depends what ur trails are I have a nice long straight away that I can easily hit 40mph all day long if I wanted to. I have lots of cool quick turns and quick sprint straight aways and a sand bank turn but I like to get some top speed runs here and there on that straight away . Like I said it really depends on how your going to be riding. My current yerf will be getting 12 gram sliders soon with a A-12 or a-11 cam, the 12 gram sliders are already ordered and I have a a-12 cam sitting here so I will see how that combo works as well.

Forgot to mention all my combos I used a orange no rev cdi, and orange ignition wire.
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Last edited by jmansracerocket; 12-16-2014 at 10:19 PM.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:13 AM
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Jman...did you change ur pinion sprocket or was it stock. Ohh and were you still running 11g sliders, I'm curios about if u went back up to 12 or 13 gram sider. Would u get some mide range back....

Liduno....how was low end ...i need to almost be able to put front tires against wall, floor the gas and it try to climb....lmao right now I can climb over about 13 or 14 Inch log from stand still almost... Ohhh welding grinding and fabricating no problem for me, that's what I do for a living besides on aircraft all types...

Thank you all
The 13/39 and 11gram sliders had great low end. The motor was stock but I did jet it up and the exhaust was opened up when I got it. I put on a uni filter with a straight pvc intake.

From what I read the gy6 carbs are jetted pretty lean from the factory.

Adjusting the valves made a big difference too, gained a good amount of low end from that and they weren't even making any noise. I had the seat off so I figured I would adjust them while they were so accessible.

Like I mentioned though, I took a lot of weight off of mine.

Last edited by liduno; 12-17-2014 at 07:18 AM.
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Old 12-17-2014, 04:16 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Default sprockets

Ok jman..

First you say u lightened..what did you remove...second I have 16x32 or 31 I would like to keep top end around 35 give or take...preferably keeping 35...but I ride in alot of forest where we maybe can hit 10ish but mostly plowing over tress climbing over logs and going into mud...but there is sometimes we get open areas were we can run good and wide open for a bit...ok I will look into some pinions and sprockets.. I'll try to get video this weekend hopefully...im going surf for those products now
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Old 12-17-2014, 04:29 PM
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Believe it or not, sometimes gearing down can give you more top end too.

If you over geared by going with taller tires, going down on the pinion could possibly give you more top and low end.

As far as making the buggy lighter. I removed all the sheet metal on the sides and front of the buggy, I removed the luggage rack, I removed the rear view mirror mount and replaced it with just a bar, I removed double bars in places that only needed single bars, I removed the harnesses because I never used them..lol I cut off any unnecessary metal that I could.

I think it was like 50 pounds IIRC

Don't forget proper jetting and a valve adjustment. It made a huge difference for me.
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Old 12-18-2014, 02:29 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Well I went today bout a 36t #50 sprocket its a blank but I'm gonna go with that first....
Right now on chain drive area in a 2 to 1 if I bring it up to 36 that will bring me up to a 2.2 to 1 if I went with 39 that would move to a 2.4 to 1 ill try this until I can find me a 12 or 13 pinion that fits my buggy...i have the reverse on mine so its the six bolt sprocket... Dont know if they make smaller than 16....
By lighten ur buggy do you think it made difference...also what is the rule for jetting that's one thing I have never done that..i know how to but dont know proper way...is it just test and trial or what....that's alot of weight though to remove...im working on new exhaust using empty map gas bottle the small ones....im gonna have it where its a slip joint like mine
And one tip, but I will fill the whole inside with steel wool..
Again thanks for tips
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:19 PM
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don't think you can go smaller than a 16 because of bolt head interference with the chain side plates.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x-bird View Post
don't think you can go smaller than a 16 because of bolt head interference with the chain side plates.
Mine had internal reverse so I don't know if that makes a difference.

Any industrial retail place that sells sprockets will have 1 inch keyed sprockets that will work with some finessing. Grainger sell sprockets too I think. The 1 I used was a 13 with 2 keyways and 2 setscrews. Very important to use locktite on the setscrews. A spot weld to hold the keys to the sprocket if the setscrews come loose probably wouldn't be a bad idea.

Last edited by liduno; 12-18-2014 at 08:53 PM.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buggymike1976 View Post
Well I went today bout a 36t #50 sprocket its a blank but I'm gonna go with that first....
Right now on chain drive area in a 2 to 1 if I bring it up to 36 that will bring me up to a 2.2 to 1 if I went with 39 that would move to a 2.4 to 1 ill try this until I can find me a 12 or 13 pinion that fits my buggy...i have the reverse on mine so its the six bolt sprocket... Dont know if they make smaller than 16....
By lighten ur buggy do you think it made difference...also what is the rule for jetting that's one thing I have never done that..i know how to but dont know proper way...is it just test and trial or what....that's alot of weight though to remove...im working on new exhaust using empty map gas bottle the small ones....im gonna have it where its a slip joint like mine
And one tip, but I will fill the whole inside with steel wool..
Again thanks for tips
Making it lighter made a big difference. Power to wieght ratio is what it's all about.

I always just jet it up as high as I can without fouling the plug or until I stop gaining power and speed.

Look at a slip on pipe for a sport bike, the packing is around the outside not in the path of the exhaust.

Last edited by liduno; 12-18-2014 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:11 PM
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Ok
X-BIRD. u might be right ....Monday ill disassemble and get some measurements...and see what I can come up with...

Liduno...mine uses 6bolts that hold it and spice to housing of reverse that sits on outside of a splined part look at pic in link below it bolts to the spacer that is sitting between 2 and 10
https://www.scooterdomain.com/media/...ory/Fig_8_.jpg

Thank you
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:31 PM
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My bad. Mine had a simple output shaft.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:46 PM
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LMAO, NAHHH u didn't know but if u seen or hear of any MODS to that setup pls let me know... I'm hoping I can get old sprocket off and new one laid out and drilled and put back on before saturday otherwise my daughter gonna beat me up lol... So when u say a 125 jet what size is the hole (.125mm) ohh have you roles of flipped ur buggy since making lighter.. I think for now ill run my 20 inch bit through it once its only about 1/4 inch.

THANK YOU ALL
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Old 12-19-2014, 06:46 AM
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I don't think I mentioned what jet size I ended up with, but it might have actually ended up being a 125 [1.25mm] I don't remember.

I used a drill index, I think I ended up some where around a 56 but I'm guessing because I don't remember.

I found the drill bit that fit in the main jet and then went up 2 index sizes at a time, I didn't touch the low speed jet.

I never rolled my hammerhead and have since sold it after I got my fl350, which I blew up and sold.. All I have left for buggies is a rolling chassis from a spiderbox..lol
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Old 12-19-2014, 04:07 PM
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Ohhhh ok so you can just open up a bit...cool thanks...ummm why u breaking all ur buggies lol...sound like me runnnnn the pisss out of it then sell and start again lol. Oh never rolled damn not riding hard enough lol... So u going to start build on spider box maybe snow mobile motor lol

Ohhh ok the sprocket I bout at tea to supply won't work well it will but I don't have access to machine shop for couple weeks.... center bore is to small, by about 1/8 inch...so I said screw it ordered one from buggy depot 19.99.
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Old 12-19-2014, 04:17 PM
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I thought about building the spider box but I ended up listing it on craigslist for $150

It's not in bad shape but it will need either ball joints or a front end swap. I have a set of warrior A arms and spindles with rotors. I thought about just cutting the ball joints off and welding them to the spider A arms
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Old 12-19-2014, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
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I thought about building the spider box but I ended up listing it on craigslist for $150

It's not in bad shape but it will need either ball joints or a front end swap. I have a set of warrior A arms and spindles with rotors. I thought about just cutting the ball joints off and welding them to the spider A arms
Dam wish u where near NY I would buy the yerf from you
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:23 PM
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Nobody lives near me, south Florida might as well be another country..lol
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
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Nobody lives near me, south Florida might as well be another country..lol
lol at least ur warmer then ny during these months
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:46 PM
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True but I love New England in the summer. Grew up in Mass and New Hampshire.
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Old 12-19-2014, 11:37 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Who lives in south Florida lol. Ohhh much warmer than ny....
Ohhhh 150 damn thats right up my alley put a nice 440 rotex ohhh yeah
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Old 12-21-2014, 04:26 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Default clutch blew up disintegrated

Me and neighbor went ridding in wood behind house today and its rainy and cold for Florida....so we built bride to go across 4 1/2 ft deep...and on other side there about 20,000 acres...got it built drove through but had rough terrain and swamp...well got to clearing but on way back to bridge I blew clutch up...loli think it overheated

Pics and video will follow
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Old 12-21-2014, 05:37 PM
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Default clutch explosion

here you can see clutch and bridge heres link to friend crossing bride you can see barely big enough

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzW6mmclEQ4
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File Type: jpg clutch.jpg (94.7 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg clutch pcs.jpg (95.4 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg bridge2.jpg (104.5 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg bridge1.jpg (106.5 KB, 12 views)
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:28 PM
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clean the clutch off and see if it turned a bluish purple color if so I would change it
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:40 PM
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I would be scared to drive over that "bridge" if it isn't all tied together
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:42 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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The clutch arms are not left it got so hot it melted blew up only thing still left is the steel parts two springs mangled third spring still good...if u look at pic of clutch bell the silver looking stuff is metal flakes that chews up and re-melted...i think I had idled up to much so it super heated lol ohh but she was a beast..
What is good affordable clutch shoes
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:44 PM
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Lol it isn't but one end each log ways about two hundred pounds or more than we drove stakes into ever to logs lol yes its still scary when u have one inch on each front tire lol
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:26 PM
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I love that bridge..lol looks like something we would do when we were kids.

Sorry to hear about the clutch.


P.S Someone bought the spider box the day after I listed it. I'm officially buggyless
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:34 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Damn that was quick.. Well time to start again
.yeah my daughter loved it lol...

I haven't pulled clutch off...but u have any ideas of why a clutch would shred up like it did in the one pic you can see the two metal piece's well I'm assuming that was dust and reheated lol..ill pull off tomm real slow so mane I can find root cause..
Thanks all

Ohh before I forget merry Christmas or happy holidays and a very happy new year to all
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:37 PM
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u can buy pretty decent upgraded clutches for a decent price as well
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:42 PM
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http://www.scrappydogscooters.com/12...rformance.html
just scroll down till u hit the clutch, I use it in the yerf and like it

https://www.buggypartsnw.com/index.p...rformance.html
this one doesn't say what kind of clutch arm springs this clutch comes with but call mike is awesome to talk at buggy parts nw, really nice guy always took care of me.
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:51 PM
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forgot to mention what rubber cover do u have on the cvt case? I put the newer version on and it makes a big difference letting air in to keep things cooler. There's ton of threads from the scooter guys drilling there cvt cases near the clutch to allow more air in
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Old 12-21-2014, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
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Damn that was quick.. Well time to start again
.yeah my daughter loved it lol...

I haven't pulled clutch off...but u have any ideas of why a clutch would shred up like it did in the one pic you can see the two metal piece's well I'm assuming that was dust and reheated lol..ill pull off tomm real slow so mane I can find root cause..
Thanks all

Ohh before I forget merry Christmas or happy holidays and a very happy new year to all
Happy Happy Merry Merry

Being bogged down in sugar sand or mud too long will create tons of heat in the clutch, especially if you're geared for top speed.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:14 AM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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What rubber part you talking about

Quote
forgot to mention what rubber cover do u have on the cvt case? I put the newer version on and it makes a big difference letting air in to keep things cooler

Thank you for replying.ill start pulling clutch off in about 5 minutes.
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Old 12-22-2014, 01:06 PM
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Default clutch explosion

pics will expain all
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File Type: jpg WP_20141222_002.jpg (96.5 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg WP_20141222_003.jpg (101.8 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg WP_20141222_004.jpg (100.1 KB, 14 views)
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Old 12-22-2014, 01:51 PM
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I have never seen a clutch melt down like that in all my years messing with these buggies. Nothing remotely close to what you have. I would inspect the variator as well for the rollers could also be melted. The best I can figure is a defective clutch. It should have been apparent upon driving though.
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:28 PM
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Lmao....i know it was fully gone... it was all new bought from local shop (clutch that is)...pulled apart and installed 1500lb springs and new slider..it was working all great until I got stuck lol.... had to do alot of back and forth then got to next hole and she said swizzzzzzzz lock lol...i thought at first killed motor...but when I noticed metal shooting out vent hole I knew it was some else..... Need new clutch and belt everything else still looks good.
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:31 PM
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Ohhh need by Sunday lol
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Old 12-22-2014, 04:21 PM
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Amazing the aluminum melted but the belt didn't. Don't buy the same brand clutch.
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:34 PM
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Lmao I know belt has some aluminum on it but hardly and glazing like none....u know it would of still worked if I was on flat ground lol...
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:36 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Roflmao

What company wants to see how good there clutch Is. Lol as in donate lol
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:52 PM
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lol I highly doubt if u didn't order a new clutch already u will not be getting it sorry unless u pay for faster shipping. Buy a new belt and always have a spare,and def check your variator and rollers for wear like stated above
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Last edited by jmansracerocket; 12-22-2014 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 12-22-2014, 08:00 PM
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Default clutch

I have a shorty kid ne me clutch for sale if you want to try it out barely used.
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Old 12-22-2014, 08:11 PM
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Just curious, who's clutch did you have? Was it a stock clutch, why was it replaced?
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:48 PM
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I got it from local scooter atv shop...dont really luke them but needed for daughters birthday and it was stock or less quality...
It was replace due to when I was upgrading springs and sliders and all there was like a 64th pad left maybe way less probably...ohhh and it was all new even bell... Dont know maker ohh and shops name sylano cycles or something like that...

Ohhh jman you have pic of what's left of pads.. If easier u can text me it ill pm # if not post here....
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Old 12-23-2014, 06:44 PM
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wow, I thought I was tough on buggies..
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Old 12-23-2014, 08:32 PM
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I put my buggy place alot of 4x4 dont like going...lol
I'm having to cut my damn axle right now just to replace sprocket...
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Old 12-23-2014, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
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I put my buggy place alot of 4x4 dont like going...lol
I'm having to cut my damn axle right now just to replace sprocket...
Um u don't have to cut ur axle to replace sprocket.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie
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Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust.



Blade Single Seater Restore
welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank.
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  #86  
Old 12-23-2014, 11:39 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Roflmao...i know I don't have too but I want to ....nahhh I can not get hubs off I tried turning hubs red with heat and with 12 ton press nothing. No a crick crack or pop... So my option s to buy one, which I don't have money flow right now cause Christmas so I'm cutting and weld back together..
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  #87  
Old 12-24-2014, 01:06 AM
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xlint89 xlint89 is offline
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Try this trick I've found first.

Keep a bucket of ice cubes close by.

Hold cubes on the axle while you heat the hubs. (you're going to use alot of them)

The cold should keep the axle from expanding while the hub opens up.

I've had to do this on stubborn flywheels more than once.

I doubt this will work if a 12 ton press didn't do it, but worth a shot before you go cutting up your axle.

NOTE: I assume you looked for signs the previous owner altered something like pinning (roll pin) or spot welding the hubs on?
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top..........
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  #88  
Old 12-24-2014, 08:08 AM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Xlint...i did check for alteration done to hub,, but nothing was found ..i can try the ice thing...but fill cooler full of ice and water and let water run across axle and it will drain back into cooler and also heat up hub keeping a steady pressure on it....if not I will cut.i have a 4 inch long 2 1/4"OD and 1 3/8"ID STEEL SLEEVE that will slide into place and weld..i debating on one end of double pinning to later remove axle. Dont know ohh and then the point on axle that has less shear load...
Thank u for all ur ideas
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  #89  
Old 12-24-2014, 08:35 AM
liduno liduno is offline
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Maybe slice the hub and then weld it?
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  #90  
Old 12-24-2014, 10:15 AM
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SYCARMS SYCARMS is offline
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Those hubs will not weld good for they are made of gray metal. Mostly recycled aluminum but other compounds and minerals which does not make the best aluminum, and impossible to weld that is with a good penetration and bond. Your best bet is to cut the hubs off using a die grinder and buy new hubs for it.
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  #91  
Old 12-24-2014, 10:43 AM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Ok I will try anything before cutting axle...i am gonna drill four small hole in hub and throw some pb blaster in there hopefully it will penetrate the inside
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  #92  
Old 12-24-2014, 11:31 AM
liduno liduno is offline
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I didn't realize they were aluminum. I thought he mentioned he heated them till they were glowing red? Usually aluminum will just fall apart when heated that hot.
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  #93  
Old 12-24-2014, 12:23 PM
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SYCARMS SYCARMS is offline
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I said they were gray metal so they will have some iron bronze magnesium as well as other stuff in the metal casting. I have yet to find a Trailmaster HH, or other like buggy with steel hubs.
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  #94  
Old 12-24-2014, 12:40 PM
liduno liduno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYCARMS View Post
I said they were gray metal so they will have some iron bronze magnesium as well as other stuff in the metal casting. I have yet to find a Trailmaster HH, or other like buggy with steel hubs.
Gotchya
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  #95  
Old 12-24-2014, 01:48 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Lol ohhh definitely steel of some type magnet sticks ohh and sparks orange all signs of iron...
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  #96  
Old 12-26-2014, 09:04 PM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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Holly crap I got hub off....thank you all for all suggestions...
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  #97  
Old 12-27-2014, 07:07 AM
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ckau ckau is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYCARMS View Post
Those hubs will not weld good for they are made of gray metal. Mostly recycled aluminum but other compounds and minerals which does not make the best aluminum, and impossible to weld that is with a good penetration and bond. Your best bet is to cut the hubs off using a die grinder and buy new hubs for it.
You can weld them. you got to use a arc welder instead of mig. Use a rod intended for cast. I've welded up several sets converting them to the keyway axle. Tore the stud mounts off one but the welds were no issue
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  #98  
Old 12-27-2014, 07:23 AM
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xlint89 xlint89 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buggymike1976 View Post
Holly crap I got hub off....thank you all for all suggestions...
Awesome, what did the trick?
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top..........
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  #99  
Old 12-29-2014, 03:56 AM
buggymike1976 buggymike1976 is offline
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What did trick was ice water flowing over axle back side...drilling 4 number 27 holes and filling with pb blaster and letting sit over night....(just the pb sat overnight)...put a constant pressure pulling and cold on axle heat on hub and hammer gun.....eventually seen axle and hub have hair line split between the two....(2 hours) into ..another two hours of beating and heating and pb it finally came offf....ohhh it was a pain but didn't have to cut axle
Everyone's idea what put to use on this one.....

Thank all
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  #100  
Old 12-29-2014, 05:17 PM
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xlint89 xlint89 is offline
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That's some persistence you got there. Good job
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