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Old 07-31-2017, 08:46 PM
charleswrivers charleswrivers is offline
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Location: Saint Marys, GA
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Default Question about clutch wear...

I've been running my old ASW Scorpion (6150) hard lately. An unfortunate couple minutes of hauling a large load though some mud w/the little brake tab thing partly engaged left w/me much reduced power. Upon stopping, I noted a little white smoke coming from the CVT housing. I nursed it home. Ran it today and it seemed fine and not down on power.

Reading a bit this evening, I thought about how I hadn't gone into the CVT since I replaced my rollers w/12g sliders a year or more ago and figured perhaps I should crack it back open and look at any issues. I got the cart ~5 years ago used (seemingly lightly) and probably put a couple dozen hours on it a year, but they are hard hours w/some moderate hills and a lot of weight, through mud and water.

To the point, I figure I oughta get a new belt, regardless due to 100+hours and over 5 years of hard use and the mishap yesterday. I didn't know if I may have done not so nice things to the clutch as well. May times I tend to run it at low speeds (5-10 mph) and was curious if running them at low speeds would be like, in effect 'riding the clutch' of a conventional vehicle... lots on on and off throttle and light partial throttle.

Additionally, I have stock springs, and sliders are my only CVT mod. I thought of getting a 1500 (yellow) torque spring. On the clutch arm springs, I thought of doing the same. I like the idea of having more 'hole shot' acceleration at times, especially for hills. Curious, however... if my heavily loaded, running through mud a lot at low speeds driving style would have a more profoundly bad effect on a clutch with the higher springs, as I would tend to have more intermittent/partial engagement.

I've spent over a hour today watching videos trying to take in how our CVTs works and the intricacies of tuning. I'd like more torque... but not at the expense of whatever reliability we can expect from our toys... given my driving habits. I've gone through the forums and it doesn't seem like many people have need to replace a clutch itself... they've only talked of changing they torque/arm springs.
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Old 08-01-2017, 07:16 AM
tkeagle tkeagle is offline
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My option. Running at lower speeds, should in no way, affect, or burn the clutch. Long as everything is tight, and in place, the CVT is pretty impressive. I've gone well over a year, never opening the case.
The yellow spring might help for you want to do. Main thing is roller, or slider weights.
I've been running 10g's for last 3 years. That thing stayed in the lower gear for while. Only way to get to top speed is run it WOT, on dirt road. And take about good 10 secs, to get to top speed. Still never had any issues, burning the clutch.
After this new build, I moved up to 11g's. See how rides. Might go up to 12's.
I don't haul stuff much. and sure not in mud. You might benefit best with lighter weights, if mainly what you doing is hauling, loaded, and mud.
Also, since going through mud, water.. would think make sure case is sealed off good from the water and mud????
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Old 08-01-2017, 10:07 AM
charleswrivers charleswrivers is offline
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The clutch engaged and disengages at low speeds so far as I can tell... So the only time you should have wear is at low speeds. I don't think high speed would do anything as it'd remain engaged once you're above 1000, 1500 or 2000 RPM, depending on the clutch arm springs. I expect mine are around 1000 as I've never changed the springs.

I do have 12g sliders, down from the stock 13g rollers. It had a mild but noticable effect. I may consider going down to 10s in the future.

I watch a video on how to inspect and 'service' a clutch to remove glazing from pads and roughen up the bell housing, so I'll be looking to do that when I have some parts come in. I got 2 belts, one for now and one to keep on hand. I figure after 5-10 years, a belt change may be in order.

Just trying to learn if anyone has experience the conditions under which their clutches failed.
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