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150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum

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  #1  
Old 04-06-2016, 04:16 PM
BakedPotoato BakedPotoato is offline
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Default Is my new clutch working right? 150 GY6

I just put on a new clutch on my Crossfire 150r since the old one was worn out (broken/missing metal on the clutch unit) and grabbing the belt when not moving. I could hardly push or start the go kart with the old clutch since it always grabbed. Anyway, I was used to an instant throttle response on the old clutch and now the new one when I give it gas, the engine revs high then starts to move. The lower end acceleration isn't as aggressive as the old clutch was but it still performs fine after the initial takeoff. Is it normal for the engine to rev up then start to grab the clutch, or should it grab the belt instantly?

Thanks
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Old 04-06-2016, 06:05 PM
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SYCARMS SYCARMS is offline
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What springs are on the clutch, which torque spring and what weight rollers?
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Old 04-07-2016, 02:18 PM
BakedPotoato BakedPotoato is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYCARMS View Post
What springs are on the clutch, which torque spring and what weight rollers?
The springs the clutch are the ones that came installed on it, the normal springs and torque spring. I put in 10g rollers last year
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Old 04-07-2016, 08:28 PM
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xlint89 xlint89 is offline
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What clutch did you install and what color are the springs that came on it?
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top..........
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:51 AM
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SYCARMS SYCARMS is offline
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Depending on what type of clutch (stock or performance) will determine what rpm the clutch will grab. A performance will have a stiffer clutch spring over the stock clutch. The stiffer the clutch spring the higher rpm needed for clutch to grab. Rollers and the clutch torque spring will control the shift rate. If possible post a video and from that I can determine if your clutch is grabbing correctly.
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Old 04-08-2016, 08:52 PM
BakedPotoato BakedPotoato is offline
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I bought a $44 clutch assembly off of Amazon. The springs are stock I'm assuming. The clutch was for a GY6 150cc engine in general, not specific to my go kart. Everything but the takeoff is the same as the old clutch in terms of performance.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:10 PM
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xlint89 xlint89 is offline
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I'm sorry, but that didn't answer either of my 2 questions.

Post up a video like Tom asked and maybe he can help you out.
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top..........
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:49 AM
BakedPotoato BakedPotoato is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
I'm sorry, but that didn't answer either of my 2 questions.

Post up a video like Tom asked and maybe he can help you out.
I do not know what clutch I bought, all I know is that is a replacement for a 150cc GY6 engine. I bought a CLUTCH ASSEMBLY, I just unbolted the old clutch and slid on the new clutch and bolted it on. The spring I was able to see was the torque spring and it was black. I could not see the small clutch springs on the actual clutch. This it what I purchased \/. I have 10g rollers in the variator.

http://www.amazon.com/150cc-GY6-Rear.../dp/B0045WKCFM
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:06 AM
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That is a stock clutch. You might want to change out the clutch and torque springs to yellow. I do have them in stock, you can either e-mail me tom@sycpowersports.com or call me 662-301-1563. I can get a bit more info quicker from you muc if you call. I could then help solve the problem more accurately.
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Old 04-09-2016, 08:01 PM
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ckau ckau is offline
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A stock clutch will engage at 32 to 3500 rpms. The clutch springs dictate the engagement rpm. Stiff springs engage at a higher, weak spring engage at a lower rpm. With your old clutch, the springs are weak, worn out or possibly broken so you will feel engagement at a lower than normal rpm. You may not be used to the normal engagement range of the new clutch.
With time and a old clutch, the clutch bell gets overheated, blued and glazed on the contact area. If you did not sandpaper the clutch bell to remove the glaze then the new clutch will slip and not grab until rpms are considerably higher.
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckau View Post
A stock clutch will engage at 32 to 3500 rpms. The clutch springs dictate the engagement rpm. Stiff springs engage at a higher, weak spring engage at a lower rpm. With your old clutch, the springs are weak, worn out or possibly broken so you will feel engagement at a lower than normal rpm. You may not be used to the normal engagement range of the new clutch.
With time and a old clutch, the clutch bell gets overheated, blued and glazed on the contact area. If you did not sandpaper the clutch bell to remove the glaze then the new clutch will slip and not grab until rpms are considerably higher.
well said Ckau.
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top..........
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