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Mini Buggy General Discussion General Discussion forum for Mini Buggies. (American Sportworks, HammerHead, Carter, etc)

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  #1  
Old 05-20-2015, 09:13 AM
tkeagle tkeagle is offline
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Default air intake Mod for YD, is there better?

Getting tired of needing to re-attach the air intake to the carb. And half the time I'm re-attaching the rubber intake between the carb, and intake manifold. Plus there is the issue I half to keep an eye on the claps, that attach air intake to carb. sets right above the pos. wire on the starter. It's smoked a few times.

got a vm 26 carb. with Uni air filter. There is just not very much space in-between the engine mount below, and cross member above.

I use 2 zip ties, and tie it to the upper x-member. It seems like it keeps it in place. But after awhile, it moves, and just don’t stay where it needs to be.

Just wondering if there is a better way to fix this. I’ve seen someone cut the top x-member to make room, but wouldn’t that degrade the strength? And seen someone make a bracket to attach the metal intake part, and the upper x-member. But not sure if that will fix the problem.

Would there be any reason why I couldn’t cut the top x-member. Add some tubing to it and make it higher, then re-weld it? Seems like a lot of work. So if anyone else got an easier idea, I’m all for it.
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Old 05-20-2015, 12:28 PM
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SYCARMS SYCARMS is offline
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I would nor recommend cutting the frame. On the Yerf the engine moves along with the carrier. It seems from looking at your picture you need to keep the filter and redneck intake from moving around. Depending on what was used for your filter intake if metal you can tack on a tab with a hole then drill and tap the tube and secure with a machine screw. If plastic tack an L shaped bracket to the frame than secure the intake with a worm clamp.
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Old 05-20-2015, 01:26 PM
tkeagle tkeagle is offline
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It's metal. And if recomend not to mess with the frame. Then that would be the way to go. Might as go as far as placing 2 tabs on it. and mount to the cross memeber.

I got the upgrade gas and Air kit from BD. Came with metal intake manerifold, rubber boot between the intake manifold and the carb. And a VM 26. Carb.
The rubber boot between the manifold and carb, cracked in a short time. For while was able to just tape it up. But then split in half. So went to home depo, got a rubber collar, just big enough to slid over the boot. Cut it to size. And clamp it over the rubber boot. The boot is not very long, and its a bitch to get a good clap, or seal on it. After awhile it slids off or moves, and get air leakage from that area. So half to take apart, and reset and install.

I guess if I can get a good secure bit on the filter end, should keep the intake boot from moving and shifting around.

Just really hate the clamps being right on top of the positive wire on the starter. I've burt up a few wires before, because the rubber boot protecting the starter wire, moved and then shorted it out.

There is a plastic spacer between the engine, and the intake manifold. I've got a few extra of those spacers. What if I cut one down. Say in half. And basicly raise the hight of the manifold. Has any done that? Or would I just be asking for air leakage issues? Then prob. would half to get a reducer or smaller filter intake to make everything work. So may not be worth it.
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Old 05-20-2015, 05:57 PM
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jmansracerocket jmansracerocket is offline
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tkeagle, maybe try a piece of pvc pipe ? Its lighter then the metal pipe and is very cheap maybe $2.50 at home depot or lowes and let me say I also bought a rubber reusable twist tie, which come in 2 or 3 colors and a bunch of different lengths I belive I got either a 24 inch or 30 something inch and wrap it around the pipe and frame and holds very well. Just my opinion.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie
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Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust.



Blade Single Seater Restore
welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank.
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Old 05-20-2015, 06:35 PM
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jmansracerocket jmansracerocket is offline
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forgot another bonus with the pvc pipe doesn't get as hot as that chrome pipe.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie
under construction

Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust.



Blade Single Seater Restore
welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank.
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:48 AM
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xlint89 xlint89 is offline
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http://buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2601

http://buggymasters.com/forum/showth...?t=2601&page=2
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top..........
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