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  #1  
Old 02-07-2011, 10:51 AM
Doughboy Doughboy is offline
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Default 150 carter talon problems

i have recieved a neglected carter talon 150,i have replaced the carb cdi stator and plug and starter clutch and battery so far.after replacing battery and plug i could get it running it started ok but ran like crap.i cleaned carb a million times and still no better so i replaced the carb seemed to run better but would fall on its face if you stomped it,and still didnt have a smooth idle. starter clutch died so i replaced it.then it wouldnt start at all ohm the coil its good it was cheap enough to replace cdi and stator at the same time.now it runs great IF you can get it started.i have also set the valve gap 3 to 4 times i have also replaced the plug again todayi have been lurking here awhile for tips and tricks i am now throwing in the towel and asking for any help you can give thanks
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Old 02-07-2011, 06:48 PM
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Have you tested the electric choke/enrichment valve?
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:39 AM
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First thing. What color is your spark? Second, what did you set the valves at and was the engine cold or hot. Third, have you checked the intake manifold for a vacume leak? Fourth, have you done a compression test yet? Fifth, what did the origional spark plug look like eg. color, fouled yes/no. If you will answer these questions we can get the ball rolling. These are basic questions needed to know since we are here and you are there. Also what is your location?

Tom
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:21 PM
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1..i have yet the check the choke(dont know how)2..spark seems weak and will not spark untill i let off the key. 3..no vaccum leak that i can tell. 4..compression is 125psi 5..old plug was all black..im assuming i have a spark problem now.i dont know why i didnt check the simple thing first,but now why is it my coil?it ohm out good.what causes it to spark after i let the key spring back?i belive i set the valve gap at .004 and i did this cold. sorry i didnt relize i left a bunch of info out.also im in central illinois,thanks
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:39 PM
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I'd do a simple check of the spark by turning the key on, then jump across the soleniod and see if you have spark during rotation. If it does spark like it's supposed too then the key switch is bad.The choke/enrichment valve is the item on the carb with the wire connection.If you remove it you can see if it's working by noting the position of the brass plunger with the key off, then turn the key on and after a few minutes it should extend about a 1/4" more than first noted.
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:04 PM
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I also feel that your spark problem is in the ignition switch, another way to check is with either a test light or volt ohm meter at the ignition switch.You will have a live wire all the time, find it then turn the switch to the on position and look for the ignition hot, most are black with a white trace, while your light or meter is connected to this wire turn the key to the start position watching the reaction of the light or meter. The way you described it I'll bet it is the switch. The choke however is a different story. All the buggies I have worked on the choke works right off the stator, so just by turning the ignition switch on will not power the choke the engine must be running for it to get power. Seeing that you have replaced the carb I would not worry about the choke as of now Lets figure your spark problem out first. I would first spray some WD-40 in the ign switch and then cycle it several times then try to start it and run it. I found that the contacts inside the switch stick due to being gummed up or corroded. If you find it works ok after the WD-40 I would still plan on replacing the switch.

Tom
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Old 02-09-2011, 03:45 PM
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ok thanks, ill give it a shot and post back with whatever info i find.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:25 PM
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just an update.after messing with this for the past few weeks.i decided to try the old CDI box.it fired up the first touch of the key.let the son ride it for about 30 min's and it just died nothing it would turn over but no spark again.it sat for 30 more mins fired right back up and drove it another 30 mins then DIED again.now did i originally replaced the stock cdi box with a bad one or did i get the wrong one,or is it my cdi box at all
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:37 PM
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Again check the ignition switch.

Tom
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:07 PM
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Another suspect would be the coil- I've had more than one coil get hot and fail then cool off and work again. Is the coil anywhere near the exhaust?
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doughboy View Post
1..i have yet the check the choke(dont know how)2..spark seems weak and will not spark untill i let off the key. 3..no vaccum leak that i can tell. 4..compression is 125psi 5..old plug was all black..im assuming i have a spark problem now.i dont know why i didnt check the simple thing first,but now why is it my coil?it ohm out good.what causes it to spark after i let the key spring back?i belive i set the valve gap at .004 and i did this cold. sorry i didnt relize i left a bunch of info out.also im in central illinois,thanks
Not getting spark until letting off the key makes me think ignition switch.

Tom
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SYCARMS View Post
I also feel that your spark problem is in the ignition switch, another way to check is with either a test light or volt ohm meter at the ignition switch.You will have a live wire all the time, find it then turn the switch to the on position and look for the ignition hot, most are black with a white trace, while your light or meter is connected to this wire turn the key to the start position watching the reaction of the light or meter. The way you described it I'll bet it is the switch. The choke however is a different story. All the buggies I have worked on the choke works right off the stator, so just by turning the ignition switch on will not power the choke the engine must be running for it to get power. Seeing that you have replaced the carb I would not worry about the choke as of now Lets figure your spark problem out first. I would first spray some WD-40 in the ign switch and then cycle it several times then try to start it and run it. I found that the contacts inside the switch stick due to being gummed up or corroded. If you find it works ok after the WD-40 I would still plan on replacing the switch.

Tom
I agree with the ignition switch. You need ignition on in both the run position and the start position. If your switch has a plastic weather seal on the back pull it back and look for water or corrosion. I had issues there. I will start a new post to call attention.
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:32 PM
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the only reason i dont think its the switch is because its working fine with the old cdi box but when i put new one in is when i get spark only when i let off the key.i have swapped the 3 or 4 times to make sure.thats why i am leaning cdi box still.and i either got a bad cdi box when i ordered it.i am i correct when i say there is a ac and a dc cdi box?hope this makes sense or like metal said the coil.also i had done the ign switch test by jumping the solenoid and had spark when i let up
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:48 PM
TeamBreakem TeamBreakem is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doughboy View Post
the only reason i dont think its the switch is because its working fine with the old cdi box but when i put new one in is when i get spark only when i let off the key.i have swapped the 3 or 4 times to make sure.thats why i am leaning cdi box still.and i either got a bad cdi box when i ordered it.i am i correct when i say there is a ac and a dc cdi box?hope this makes sense or like metal said the coil.also i had done the ign switch test by jumping the solenoid and had spark when i let up
If your cdi only has one wire coming out of the second level of connectors than you need an DC cdi, if there are two you need a AC. That's not your problem though. Are there any areas of wire that have been spliced or taped? You might have a bad connection at the coil, it's happened to me before and it took me a while to find a faulty connection that someone had rigged. After I found it, it was time to ride!! Was definately a gremlin though.
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:50 PM
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no wires have been spliced or cut
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Old 03-06-2011, 05:16 PM
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When it quits and has no spark you will need to trouble shoot the system at that point, and I would start at the ignition switch and work back. There is no other way to do it. You can go broke throwing parts at it and not solve the problem.

TOM
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