not wanting to ideal

[bwomack524]

My yerf dog is not wanting to ideal. It started this the last time I took it out not wanting to start or odeal. I took apart the carb this weekend because it had been sitting for a little bit. It seem to run good after I clean the carb but something is not right any ideals?. I have that stage 1 red neck kit on it

[bwomack524]

sorry I meant idle

[bear]

check all your hoses for signs of cracks or dry rotting, also check the petcock/diapham to make sure its good to go! If thats not it, you just have to go thru it all make sure your carb intake is thight also! hope this helps

[Miamieddie]

Also check for air leaks.

[bwomack524]

If the vent on the valve cover is plugged will that cause it not to idle? Its the only tubing that I found to be dry rotted. I havent had a chance to check on the rubber intake for crachs yet

[bear]

Not to my knowledge, but I could be wrong, maybe someone else will chime in!

[2SlickNick]

Maybe check your pilot air screw.

[bwomack524]

where is the air screw located? When I had the carb apart I did clean the pilot jet but didnt mess with the mixture screw. Its suppose to be 3 turns out right?

[2SlickNick]

I am not sure because I don't have a yerf dog. I was throwing the idea out there.

[Masteryota]

3 turns sounds pretty close, mine was around 4.5 to 5 with BW air intake installed. If this is a spiderbox, the screw should be on the left side, close to the exit of the carb main body, and can be a pain to get at, and that screw controls the fuel, not air mix, so in would be leaning the mix out, and out would fatten it up.

[Johnny 5]

Did your buggy idle before the intake and did you oil the filter?

[SLESTAK75]

Originally Posted by bwomack524

If the vent on the valve cover is plugged will that cause it not to idle? Its the only tubing that I found to be dry rotted. I havent had a chance to check on the rubber intake for crachs yet

The vent should not be plugged it is meant to breath so that pressure will not build up in the crankcase. I don't think it would affect the idle but it would definitely not be good to run high rpm like that. That being said, you may need to adjust the a/f mix screw. best way is to adjust the idle speed to where it will run (around 1000 rpms is good) and adjust in or out 1/4 turn at a time, giving 15 seconds for adjustment to take affect.While adjusting you want the rpms to rise with each adjustment not go down. If adjustments cause rpms to lower then adjust screw the other way. Keep adjusting until the rpms are at highest point. From there a 1/2 turn in either direction should cause rpms to drop. This how you know you are in the right spot. Then adjust your idle speed where you want it.

[SLESTAK75]

This is looking from "drivers" side

[bwomack524]

I've replaced the hoses and the intake and its still doing the same. It will take several time to even get it to try to start. When it finally does it runs then dies and I have to keep playing to keep it running. When it finally runs it seem to run good with no back firing when I let off from running wide open. But even after that it will not idle and is hard to get it to start again. I'm missing something. It also seems like it doesn't have as fast of the rev. As it use to. I will try the mixer screw and see what happens. It was running great before I let it sit a while

[bear]

What engine do you have?

[bwomack524]

Howhitt 150cc 04 model with the stage 1 redneck upgrade

[SLESTAK75]

Have you checked compression or valve lash settings??

[bwomack524]

It runs fine once I get it started. Doesn't miss a beat

[SLESTAK75]

Could be valves off just enough to affect it when it's cold but even out when warmed up. Could be a cracked spark plug or corroded or loose connections somewhere.Could be the CDI or the coil. Just have to go through it with a fine toothed comb at this point.

[bwomack524]

Your right Im going to start at the beginning. Take and clean the carb one more time and then go from there. Could it be the clutch dragging a little? Also to me on the carb it is looking like its not getting enough fuel. I have all new from the fuel tank to the carb so it should be enough fuel

[Johnny 5]

Is your battery good? Is it cranking fast enough?

[bwomack524]

yes the battery good . I have a 12v battery from an electric wheelchair on it

[SYCARMS]

Check the pilot jet to make sure you can see light through it. Your air fuel adjustment should be 1-1 1/2 turns out 3-4 turns indicate the idle circuit is lean. Have you done a rejet when you went with the UNI?

[bwomack524]

Yes I forgot what size jets but after I put them in it ran great. I cleaned the pilot jet before but it might have got plugged again. That my next step ic checking and recleaning the carb

[bwomack524]

yaa got her running. The only strange thing is that I am not finding fuel/air mixing screw. are some preset from factory

[SYCARMS]

Left ( drivers side) of carb just above fuel bowl intake end.

[SLESTAK75]

Mine was coated with a hardened glue that made it difficult to notice and had to be temoved in order to adjust.

[SYCARMS]

Yerfdog's did not fall under the epa guides at the time. He should not have a plugged air/fuel mix screw. EPA required plugging of the A/F mix screw in 2008.

[SLESTAK75]

EPA= Everyones Perfect Adversary. So that blew my idea out of the water.

[SYCARMS]

Unless the carb has been replaced, I have heard of some who ordered a new carb online and come to them plugged but this is not the norm. The supplier of buggies can only sell the epa approved carbs, ie. Hammerhead, trailmaster ect. Private suppliers of parts do not.

[bwomack524]

Mine is plugged so there is a scew under the plug and is it hard to get the plug off?