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150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum

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  #1  
Old 11-18-2009, 07:05 PM
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Default What to do with my carter 150...

okay so i have a yellow 2005 carter talon 150cc. i just got it running after replacing all the lines then after finally putting it all back together, realizing a pin in the carburtetor was not opening up and letting in gas, also i realized that i was running gas in the fuel line. so. now that it's all up and running, i'm ready to do some mods. here's what i had in mind: gy6 racing variator set, gyy6 racing clutch, gy6 32mm CVK high performance racing carburetor, unrestricted racing CDI, polished aluminum intake manifold, an iridium plug, and a performance clutch drum. I already have a custom intake setup, and was wondering if anyone had any other performance enhancing suggestions. also a website with all of these items at a reasonable price would be nice
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:05 PM
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running gas in the vacuum line***
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:29 PM
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**** i think will have you on your feet
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helix 150
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:42 PM
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Default ehh

also i need to get my 150 up to about 55mph. is it possible with simple upgrades...or even advanced...i'm up for anything. i just have to beat my cousins stock carter 250cc interceptor which has a top speed of about 49mph. by the way my kart is stock and it's at about 40-41 mph
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:57 PM
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Well, I think you covered most of the mods. I don't think there is that much left to modify, unless you wanted to go with a performance exhaust and big bore kit, but I definitely don't recommend getting the big bore kit.
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My Ride:
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Mods:
Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch
FMF Slip-On Exhaust
No Rev. CDI
Uni Air Filter
130 Main jet
1500 RPM main clutch spring
11g sliders
75w Halogen Headlights

CARBIDE!
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  #6  
Old 11-19-2009, 05:00 AM
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KidNMe has some great vids and has tested a lot of mods. He's on our site somewhere here.

You are going to need some gearing mods too for that kind of top end. Maybe one of the supporting vendors can chime in on what is available.
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  #7  
Old 11-19-2009, 10:14 AM
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32mm carb won't do you much good without an upgraded exhaust and big bore kit. The stock intake port on the GY6 is only 24mm, and even the "30mm" intake manifold is only 27mm at the port where it goes into the head.

A 32mm carb on a GY6 is total overkill. Go with the 30mm pumper and port match with a Dremel the cylinder head to the intake for a smooth transition.
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Old 11-19-2009, 10:20 AM
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does the 32mm carb make a big difference in performance?
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My Ride:
ASW Carbide

Mods:
Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch
FMF Slip-On Exhaust
No Rev. CDI
Uni Air Filter
130 Main jet
1500 RPM main clutch spring
11g sliders
75w Halogen Headlights

CARBIDE!
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  #9  
Old 11-19-2009, 10:26 AM
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not when that air/fuel has nowhere to go and a small combustion chamber...
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Old 11-19-2009, 05:43 PM
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yah but buggy master told me not to go with the big bore kit...i dont know what to do hahaha i really need to beat out this gtr
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  #11  
Old 11-19-2009, 05:47 PM
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why do you need to beat a gtr?
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My Ride:
ASW Carbide

Mods:
Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch
FMF Slip-On Exhaust
No Rev. CDI
Uni Air Filter
130 Main jet
1500 RPM main clutch spring
11g sliders
75w Halogen Headlights

CARBIDE!
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  #12  
Old 11-19-2009, 05:51 PM
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When did I say that?

Big bore kit would definately on my list but it's one of the most expensive mods. Honestly, you would likely need that.
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2009, 07:34 PM
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oh sorry haha someone else told me that. here's my question. can 55m,pg be done in this thing, and if so, how?
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  #14  
Old 11-19-2009, 07:34 PM
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55mph***
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  #15  
Old 11-19-2009, 07:36 PM
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I'm still saying you are going to need a good set of gears too made for top end. The problem with all of this is that once you mod it for top end, you are going to lose a lot of bottom end.
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Old 11-19-2009, 07:37 PM
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I don't recommend the big bore kit because someone said it only has a lifespan of something like 50-80 hours and there was something bad about the RPMs, but I forgot what he said about that.
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My Ride:
ASW Carbide

Mods:
Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch
FMF Slip-On Exhaust
No Rev. CDI
Uni Air Filter
130 Main jet
1500 RPM main clutch spring
11g sliders
75w Halogen Headlights

CARBIDE!
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  #17  
Old 11-19-2009, 07:41 PM
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i saw that! what about a 155cc bolt on kit...?
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  #18  
Old 11-19-2009, 07:43 PM
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you saw that thing about the life expectancy?
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My Ride:
ASW Carbide

Mods:
Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch
FMF Slip-On Exhaust
No Rev. CDI
Uni Air Filter
130 Main jet
1500 RPM main clutch spring
11g sliders
75w Halogen Headlights

CARBIDE!
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  #19  
Old 11-19-2009, 08:18 PM
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Default yeah!

yeah!!! the life expectancy is like 50-80 hours!!!thats some ****!!! why would i rebuild an engine that often i could just buy a 250 to start with.
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  #20  
Old 11-19-2009, 08:22 PM
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I know it's BS! Just get a 250... or 300... or 500, or 650, or 800... or 1000!!! or just get a 250
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My Ride:
ASW Carbide

Mods:
Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch
FMF Slip-On Exhaust
No Rev. CDI
Uni Air Filter
130 Main jet
1500 RPM main clutch spring
11g sliders
75w Halogen Headlights

CARBIDE!
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  #21  
Old 11-19-2009, 08:27 PM
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hahahahaha i would but that requires a lotta welding. plus, my goal is to be the david in david and goliath. i wunna beat out a 250 with a 150. story of our lives? haha
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Old 11-19-2009, 08:33 PM
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interesting way of looking at it
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My Ride:
ASW Carbide

Mods:
Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch
FMF Slip-On Exhaust
No Rev. CDI
Uni Air Filter
130 Main jet
1500 RPM main clutch spring
11g sliders
75w Halogen Headlights

CARBIDE!
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  #23  
Old 11-19-2009, 09:04 PM
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so the question still stands. is it possible to reach 55. or is it complete bullsh*t?
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  #24  
Old 11-19-2009, 09:09 PM
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I wouldnt say its BS, but ive already told you what you can do. If you want to know more, you'll have to ask Buggy master
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My Ride:
ASW Carbide

Mods:
Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch
FMF Slip-On Exhaust
No Rev. CDI
Uni Air Filter
130 Main jet
1500 RPM main clutch spring
11g sliders
75w Halogen Headlights

CARBIDE!
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  #25  
Old 11-19-2009, 10:11 PM
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First let me start with life expectancy. Were the proper steps taken when building the engine? Was rhe ring gap set to specs? If using a forged piston was the piston to cylinder clearance checked? The cylinder using a forged piston needs .002-.003 more clearance than a cast piston. Some kits come with a slightly domed piston. Was the valve to piston clearance checked? When replacing with a big bore or even a stock cylinder was the deck height checked? I have found as much as a 2mm differance in deck height from differant cylinders. The engine is not a puzzle which we slap together. It is a intricate piece of machinery which requires careful and precise assembly. Anytime you change parts from oem you are in a sence redesigning your engine. I know of several people who had enlarged the case in order to fit a 61mm or 62mm bore kit using a dremmel to grind it. They were very careful to put an wet or oiled rag to catch the grinding dust. I don't know of one which lasted any amount of time. Usually the pump was first to weaken dropping oil pressure which results in premature wear in the cylinder. The grinding dust is going to get in the crank. Because the casings are made of cast investment which is differant than the old fashioned way due to cheaper production costs this dust created by grinding is extremely fine finding its wat into the crank. As a kid I grew up in the days of true muscle cars and everyine of my friends had one. You could always tell those who knew what they were doing from those who didn't and who the smart ones were who didn't know what they were doing. The ones who knew nothing blew engines, the smart ones who did not know had sonmeone who did build their engine. The ones who didn't know and just bought parts and threw in may have had bad sounding cars but that was it and they were always working on the engine. My point is this, racing and or abusing an engine which most of us do will shorten an engines life stock or modded. But the person who just throws parts at their GY6, CN-250 even Honda 400EX whatever will not get any longevity out of their engine. The big bore kit ,cam,stroker crank if proper has nothing to do with premature engine failure. I can go on for ever with type and quality of parts yadayadayada, some time later.Now for the 50mph. My 150 will do 44mph in 300ft. I am working on 50mph in 300ft but have not got there yet. I am working on a new cam and than I'l work on the gearing some more. But currently my top speed is 47mph. I believe this is possible to hit 50mph but it takes some coin to do so, you will not find a bolt on kit that will do this. Right now I have a 62mm big bore with a 6mm stroked crank balanced, A9 cam, ported and polished head with lowered valve guides and new springs, 32mm keihn cvk carb, eastside exhaust, K&N air filter with the cold air intake. My sons kart will do 38mph in 300ft. and not much more on longer run.All speeds for both karts were checked with a calibrated radar gun and high end gps. His also has the 62mm bore with 4 valve head ported and polished, A-11 cam,3mm stroked crank, 30mm pumper carb, eastside exhaust, UNI filter with redneck cold air intake. We both run Dr Pully hit clutches and variators with his having 10grm. rollers and mine with 11grm sliders, 1500 torque spring. You can look your 150 and your buddies 250 as small block vs big block. On a long haul the 250 will labor less giving him the advantage for he has a 3mm advantage on stroke and 14mm on bore size. I nor my son have had any problems beating 250's in 300ft. drag. Ihad only been beaten once by inches and it was a Carter 250. We raced 3 times and I beat him twice and he got me once. And the outcome of all races I believe were due to the launch. I was running a basically stock engine with a 4 valve head, 32mm carb, east side exhaust, UNI, cold air intake, MRP heavy duty clutch, Koso variator with 9grm rollers. I would suggest a cam, 30mm carb, Eastside Exhaust, K&N or UNI with cold air intake, Large valve/port head ported and polished,or 4 valve head ported and polished
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  #26  
Old 11-19-2009, 10:22 PM
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Tom do you have any vids of your buggies at the drags? Would love to see some.
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  #27  
Old 11-19-2009, 10:25 PM
BPNWMike BPNWMike is offline
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Tom -

The return key is your friend!!! I can't even read through that wall of text!

He wasn't saying that he already HAD a big bore kit. Long story short, some of us advised that a big bore kit would get him towards his goal of "beating" a 250cc buggy and 55mph. Someone else said that the big bore kit only lasts for a few hours - which is not exactly true, as you pointed out.
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:39 PM
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Deffinately Mike, a big bore kit will make a differance, but most of your power is made at the top end,the big bore compliments it, also a 3mm stroker as well. The main point I was trying to stress is most of the people who had engines fail after installing big bores or anything for that matter is usually not due to the parts or the mod which has been done but by how the work was done. It's not always as simple as bolting on parts. If one is going to do extensive work to their engines I strongly suggest they research it first. Do your homework on the subject and take your time, there cannot be any shortcuts. Many think that by doing it themselves will save them a bunch of money, but usually ends up costing them more money and agrivation in the long run.
As far as video, I sure don't. I have just purchased a video camera. I than had to buy a PCI card for the firewire. Once I play with the video camera to familiarise myself with it than figure out how to upload, I will be videoing and posting hopefully in the very near future. TOM
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  #29  
Old 11-20-2009, 10:58 PM
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TOM lol
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MY HELIX
-20' maxxis tires
-1 1/2in.UNI air filter
-gutted exaust
-extended lugs
-headlights
-reflectors
-my stickers
-adjusted suspension
-ground out hubs
(to fit on the tires)



helix 150
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  #30  
Old 11-21-2009, 03:41 AM
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along with the engine and cvy mods. you will need a 32 tooth axle sprocket and internalk gear change to get close to 55. the gears behind the clutch can be changed. it probably has 13/40 now.
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  #31  
Old 11-22-2009, 10:21 AM
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you guys rock lol thanks alot. now does anyone want to start donating cash?! hahaa
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