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Old 05-21-2013, 01:55 PM
Breakhard Breakhard is offline
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Question Kandi 110 with no compression, he says.

Breakhard back again!! Bought a Kandi 110 kids buggy yesterday from the original owner who said it needs a new motor. He's basing that from his having checked for compression and finding none. He purchased the 110 new, less than two years ago so I can't imagine the engine's worn out already. I don't own a compression tester, but will begin with the usual checking for spark, clean the carburetor, put in fresh fuel, fuel line, filter and using sea foam. I've never owned or worked on a Kandi, so any suggestions or words of wisdom on what to look for. The former owner said it'd turn over, but not start. I also bought his Kandi 150 which after putting the rear disc brake back together is said to run like a scalded dog. Anything I need to know or look out for on the 150?? Both of these will be flipped once I know they're up and running safely. Body and interior on both are in excellent condition.
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:14 PM
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Something that new with a dead engine is unlikely, unless they ran the sh!% out of it. I would check the valve clearances first, if there is 0-20psi compression, that means there is a hole somewhere, and I suspect a valve being held open.

You can rent/loan a compression gauge from most parts stores, but I would pop the valve cover off real fast and see if the rockers have any play in them at all. Tom and others have mentioned the valve seats 'settling' in the head, which would leave the valve open. I would check both of them, they should be very similar engine designs.
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:17 PM
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I bought a nice compression tester from Harbor Freight for only like 19.95 plus tax. it was regular price $30 but it was on sale. item # is 66216. zman
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:57 PM
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First of all thanks guys, I should have known to check the valves. Anyway, I got the compression tester so I'd have a compression baseline before I started tearing things apart. That's when I noticed that the muffler was sorta hanging free. Looking a little closer I found where the exhaust pipe connects to the engine, about a quarter of the exhaust manifold, if you will, was gone. Sitting there dumbfounded I then noticed the metal plate for the seat back had four deep dents in it. The dent pattern matches the four bolts on the top of the engine. I don't know but it looks and sounds to me like the old cherry bomb down to toilet trick. Maybe I'd be better off going with a new engine and forget about trying to fix this one???? So far I have less than half what a new 110cc ($250??) cost invested, so I think I'm still good. There doesn't appear to be any visible damage to the transmission, at least not that's visible from the naked eye. So, after you pick yourselves up off the floor from laughing, any suggestions??
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:14 AM
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You can get a new head and cylinder kit for that one for about what you have on hand. You could even go bigger. Make it a 155cc. As long as the crank wasnt damaged. You could start tearing down the top end and that would give you more of an idea whats going on.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:48 AM
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any chance that someone was jumping it and just punched it into the seat on landing? also on the compression test with that size engine, if he didn't open the throttle up doing the test, he'd have some pretty low numbers.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:23 AM
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I'll check on the jumping and see what he says. Has 6 kids and just got back from his second or third tour in Afghanistan, so some of them may have got a little rough with it. Tearing it down from the top shouldn't be too hard??
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:27 AM
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You are saying that there is a chunk of metal missing from the head right??
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:05 PM
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Yes SLESTAK75, right where the exhaust pipe bolts on the head. Half inch further in either direction and and there wouldn't be anything to bolt one side of the exhaust pipe to.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:09 PM
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Idk, a jump hard enough to break the head might break the cases as well, be sure to check ALL of the engine mounts carefully. You can pick up some of the GY6 150's for cheap, but you said you wanted to flip it(metaphorically speaking).

If you can get an entire engine for cheap, then that is your best bet, but if you can get by with a head and cylinder, it might be cheaper that way.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breakhard View Post
Yes SLESTAK75, right where the exhaust pipe bolts on the head. Half inch further in either direction and and there wouldn't be anything to bolt one side of the exhaust pipe to.
got it now--i was thinking a chunk of the header pipe was blown out, not the head. i'll almost guarantee you that someone launched it and or backed it into a tree or something at pretty good speed --but there should be some evidence of that around the shock or swingarm mounts unless they put new or replacement shocks on it.
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:51 AM
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You might even be able to get away with just a head replacement if all else looks good. Definitely could be more damage though. Def would be best to tear it down to the case and check it over really well. As was mentioned that kind of impact could have damaged the case.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:58 PM
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Got it torn down over the weekend and discovered two things of interest. First, which is good news I guess is where the exhaust pipe bolts to the head. Laying on the floor it looked like the head was broken right there. Upon closer inspection, it appears that's the way it was made. Where the piece I thought was missing, is very smooth, no jagged edges, like that's the way the head was cast. Second thing I found, it's not good, but then again not that bad, is the piston is in a couple pieces. Have a new one on order so should know here in another 7-10 days if that's all it'll take to get this little 110 up and running. Thanks guys.
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:04 PM
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If the piston is in pieces, then you need to look carefully at the cylinder walls for scratches and other damage. The rule is, if you run your fingernail against the marks, and can feel it, it needs to be fixed. Maybe just an hone job will do, but if you need to overbore, you will need an overbore piston as well.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:43 PM
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Also make good and sure there are no pieces of that piston down in the bottom of the engine. Nothing like having her all torn down and putting her back together thinking thats it. Cranking it up and tossing a piece of metal around in the engine.
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:10 AM
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I'll do the fingernail trick. I'd run my finger inside but not fingernail. The piston was in two pieces, one very large and one not much larger than the tip of my baby finger. Was able to put the two pieces together and see that if any other pieces fell into the engine they'd be very, very small. I plan on draining the old oil and flush with some new clean oil to see if I can't get any small pieces to flush out. I think the expense of flushing with a quart or two of oil is cheaper money and frustration wise then doing all the work, then having to go back in because of a small piece of trash. Probable do the old magnet trick too. Thanks guys. I'll keep you posted.
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Old 06-11-2013, 01:55 PM
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Cylinder wall was scratched using the finger nail test. Ordered a new on and just got it. Hope to get back on this baby in a couple days or over the weekend. It's spent too much time sitting in my garage. Need to get it repaired and out on Craigslist.
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