carb problem

[roysheepdog]

On a 2010 gy6 150, it starts and runs great up to 2500 rpms then it misses and wont get over 2500 rpm even going down hill.
It had a 135 jet and ran fine(before),but now its getting very rich and when it misses it will smoke black.
I have moved the float 3 times removed the muffler and air filter and still the same thing.
Then i put a 122 jet in and now it will run fine (but week)for a few mins then start doing the same thing, still rich.
What could this be?


thanks

[xlint89]

Stuck choke/fuel enrichment?

[GX150]

Loose ignition wires?

[T3beatz]

Mine was doing the same thing and it turned out to be The spades on the coil were very loose and making the engine run like crap. It would run fine up to about 8-10mph then start to bog, spit, and sputter... went home tightened up the wires and all was good (eventually I changed them to some new ones).

I'd do as GX150 said and check the wires, then go from there.

What all mods do you have on it? a 135 jet is pretty big...

[roysheepdog]

It was the choke,I took it off and made a gasket to block it off and put the choke back on.Now it back to running right.

[roysheepdog]

Originally Posted by T3beatz

Mine was doing the same thing and it turned out to be The spades on the coil were very loose and making the engine run like crap. It would run fine up to about 8-10mph then start to bog, spit, and sputter... went home tightened up the wires and all was good (eventually I changed them to some new ones).

I'd do as GX150 said and check the wires, then go from there.

What all mods do you have on it? a 135 jet is pretty big...

the only mods are a uni, full gut on the stock muffler, port and polish head and intake.It had a Kit Kart cdi but it went out,put the stock one back on.

[T3beatz]

Originally Posted by roysheepdog

It was the choke,I took it off and made a gasket to block it off and put the choke back on.Now it back to running right.

wait? so where did you put the gasket at? at the base of the choke mount where it bolts up to the carb?

Well, if it works it works... that sounds about right with those mods... I run a 130, but with the stock muffler and no port and polish.

[roysheepdog]

The gasket went at the base of the choke at the carb.It may suck this winter but it runs good right now.lol

[T3beatz]

Cool, good fix... You can also do the manual choke mod... Once I come across it I'll post a link.
Basically you just thread a bolt trough the top of the choke pushing the needle down turning the choke off... to turn it back on you just twist the bolt out.

[SYCARMS]

There may be nothing wrong with your choke and it is easy to check. Three things to check, 1) Connect the enrichment valve to a 12 voult source and watch that the needle extends, 2) check that you have power to the choke when engine is running, 3) if no power to the choke check the wiring for a broke or loose connection and check the little silver resistor. The manual chokes are great excepr the ones I see available you will have to stand beside the motor to operate which can be a pain in cold weather starts. The electric chokes work great when properly working and are cheaper then the manual as well as mor convieniant to use since it is automatic. I do stock the enrichment valves. call or PM me if interested.

TOM

[T3beatz]

I like the electric ones, but they just operate slowly sometimes. When you drive for a while, then let the buggy sit for like 10mins, once you go to start it back up it runs like crap because the engine is warm and the choke is on. Now, you have to wait until the choke closes again until the buggy is running correctly, and that takes 4-5 mins or so.

If you do the manual choke mod, you can sit in the driver seat and just reach back to operate it. I know I can reach my carb from the driver seat.

[roysheepdog]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

There may be nothing wrong with your choke and it is easy to check. Three things to check, 1) Connect the enrichment valve to a 12 voult source and watch that the needle extends, 2) check that you have power to the choke when engine is running, 3) if no power to the choke check the wiring for a broke or loose connection and check the little silver resistor. The manual chokes are great excepr the ones I see available you will have to stand beside the motor to operate which can be a pain in cold weather starts. The electric chokes work great when properly working and are cheaper then the manual as well as mor convieniant to use since it is automatic. I do stock the enrichment valves. call or PM me if interested.

TOM

The plug has power and i checked the valve and it does not move.Iput it in the freezer for 15 min then checked it with 12v still nothing.
i would like one for winter,I cant reach the motor in this buggy.

[SYCARMS]

Originally Posted by T3beatz

I like the electric ones, but they just operate slowly sometimes. When you drive for a while, then let the buggy sit for like 10mins, once you go to start it back up it runs like crap because the engine is warm and the choke is on. Now, you have to wait until the choke closes again until the buggy is running correctly, and that takes 4-5 mins or so.

If you do the manual choke mod, you can sit in the driver seat and just reach back to operate it. I know I can reach my carb from the driver seat.

I have never had a problem with my choke. My buggy sits 10, 15 minutes what ever it starts right up and runs great. You may have an issue with your choke.

[T3beatz]

The choke on mine is new... it works as it should, but you have to think about it... if power is not applied to the choke for a certain amount of time the needle will back out opening the choke. It takes much longer for the engine to cool down, so when you go to start back up it will start up just fine, but not idle as it should because the choke is open and the engine is already warm. That's why lot's of people don't like them, and change to manual chokes.

[SYCARMS]

The enrichment valve operates in this mannor. When the engine is started the valve is cool and in retracted state. As the engine runs 6-8 volts are applied to the valve and as the element is supplied power it heats the capulary inside the valve. This along with the heat of the engine causes the needle to expand. This is a controlled method so that as the engine gets warmer the enrichment circuit is leaned out until the engine gets to operating temp and shuts the circuit off.When you shut the engine off the needle will not immediately retract without voltage applied to it. Since it is a controlled operation the needle will retract along with the engine cooldown. If you bench test an enrichment valve it will take 1-2 minutes for the needle to extend with applied 12v but when you remove the 12 volts it will take a good 5 minutes to retract. Now this is on the bench and not on a hot engine. A hot engine the valve will take much longer to retract since the heat of the engine keeps it from retracting. If yours is retracting that quick it is due to a faulty or substandard valve. Again I hate to keep repeating this but the truth is most people will buy the cheapest part on ebay or elsewhere. You get what you pay for. Most feel the enrichment setup is a flawed concept, but it was Honda who developed the enrichment valve in the 1970's. As I said before I had never had to replace the one on my or my sons buggy, both 2005. Now my 150 I now run the Keihn 32mm with manual choke but I use my stock carb when I test run the rebuilds I do. My Challenger still has the stock carb with enrichment valve 2008. Its not just buggy parts, 5 years ago my dodge with 380000 miles blew the waterpump seal. Since money was tight I went to AutoZone for the pump, paid 60.00 for a brand new pump with lifetime warranty. A year and a half later the pump went out on the highway. I had to have it towed since I could not keep water in it and you just don't overheat a diesel. Took the pump off and got a new one warrantied. Now 4 months ago I notice anti freeze dripping under truck. Water pump again. This time I went to cummins and forked out 165.00 for a new pump. I spent 60.00 for the AZ pump with 4 gallons antifreeze about 7.00 / gallon, second pump was free but the towing bill was 105.00 plus 4 more gallons of antifreeze 7+ dollars / gallon plus my time . I had over 200.00 in 2 pumps with towing. The cummins pump will outlast the motor with over 400000 on it. I run into the same with thermostats Napa 16.00. One year later thermostat acting up went to cummins and spent 36.00 for the thermostat but again it will outlast the motor. I'm not saying that everything at AutoZone is crap but they purchase according to price. Cummins is more concerned with reputation. The same holds true with buggy parts. Bottom line is your enrichment valve is the problem doing from what you describe. Stick with the best quality parts known and you will have less problems.

[T3beatz]

My FEV was purchased from BMI, I understand how the circuit works but retracting with the cooling of the engine in a controlled manner might not be as equal as we would like. The location of the FEV does not allow it to cool off with the head, which is much hotter than the body of the engine.
I have a Vapor on my engine and if I get off and rest for 10-15mins the FEV is pretty much retracted and the engine is still warm. The FEV also takes a little longer to close than the warming up of the engine... mine usually closes around 230-240* after 2-3mins of constant riding. I can tell because if I ride for 1 min and the engine is around 200* it will not Idle properly, once the choke is closed it Idles like a champ. Now, If I could open it and close it on command I bet it would run much better.
Just my opinion... I think they had great intentions with the FEV, and maybe it does work in some peoples applications, but in mine, and in lot other peoples that I've read, it's just not as good as it can be. I understand that a lot of people blame there problems on the FEV, but I know mine works, it's just out of sync with the engine, and adding the fact that you have to also worry about the electrical side to it (wires, resistor) is another issue all together.

[SYCARMS]

All I can say is I do sell some fev but probably 95% of the people that call me for the fev, after talking to them they do not need one. Now my single Blade is for race mostly so we won't count it since I'm running so rich with the pilot I don't need the choke even in 30 deg weather, but the other 2 work just fine. My son will get back in his after sitting 1/2 or even 1 hour and it idles and takes off just the same. No it is not an exact science but neither is the manual since we do not have anyway to know the exact amount of choke needed or for how long other then an educated speculation the same as the auto system. The exact same as on a car choke system of manual or auto. The material used in the capulary is key to to the expansion /retraction of the needle. The cheaper ones use cheaper materials which won't react the same as ones using better materials. Don't get me wrong for I'm not trying to claim that I am the only one with good parts for I'm not. What I am saying comes from experience. Most will search the internet and go for the cheapest part because they all look alike. Its not like searching for say an Apple IPOD. The Apple Ipod is only manufactured by Apple for they hold the patton, and you will not find the the massive price swings with that IPOD as you will find with the Chinese buggy parts. I will still say from what you describe, your FEV not working properly is not due to the system, provided it is working as intended. Most of the buggies today I work on are ASW Carbides or Helix. I have yet to replace a choke for starting or running issues for it has always been something else causing the problem. In fact in the 8 years of messing with the Chinese products I think I have only replaced about 3 chokes and 2 were on 2005 models with many hours on them.