Automatic Choke on Carbide - BuggyMasters.Com - An On Line Mini Buggy Forum and Go Kart Forum

peteeod · #1 01-18-2010, 05:24 PM

Been having a great time with my son and his new Carbide since Christmas but I think we have a problem. I am not positive but I am pretty sure that the Carbide has a Automatic Choke....right?? I know I removed two screws holding a device on the side of the carb with wires running in to it when we did the re-jet. So I think there is a problem with it as we have to push the gas pedal to get it to fire when starting otherwise it will just turn over and over and over....... Idle is set good and at the advice of buggy master I have been able to find the "sweet spot" with the air/fuel mixture screw. Anyone have any advice on this one? and is there a way to determine if the auto choke is working???
Thanks once again in advance

24evanwilson · #2 01-18-2010, 07:59 PM

yes there is an auto choke

joshstep1 · #3 01-18-2010, 08:26 PM

Yes, the Carbides have an auto choke, but I'm not sure how to pinpoint your problem.

ckau · #4 01-18-2010, 09:06 PM

If it is disconneted, hook it back up. It is not choke as such. Chokes normally cut off the air flow to richen the mix for starting. This carb has a 'Fuel Enrichner. This is a fuel circut in the carb monitored by a needle valve. This valve opens to add more fuel to the mix for startng. The needle is moved by a thermal solonoid [the black thing on the side of the carb with wires]. The needle valve stays normally open to richen the mix when cold. As the motor warms , the needle moves down to close off the circut , the fuel mix then goes to a normal ratio for running. When the motor cools the needle opens again , ready for the next start. Removing the solonoid or disconnecting the wires causes the circut to stay open all the time, keeping the fuel mixture too rich, causing flooding, poor performance and fouled plugs. your having to start your buggy like a flooded car, pedal to the floor.
You can test the enrichener by removing it from the carb while the motor is cold, lay it down next to a ruler, position the needle by some number, connect the wires to a low amp 12 volt source, a battery charger, then watch the needle extend. should extend around 3/16ths. disconnect the power, the needle will contract. if not? replace it. If it works and is in place on the carb, check for a bad connection in the buggy wire harness. It's important that this solonoid gets power at all times.

BuggyMaster · #5 01-19-2010, 01:13 AM

When you give it a little gas to get it started, once started does it run/idle fine? In other words, is it just the initial starting that is the prob?

The thread linked below will show you what the choke looks like when energized:

http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62

peteeod · #6 01-21-2010, 03:57 PM

ckau, don't have to push the gass pedal to the floor to start, probably less than a 1/4 of the way. buggymaster, yes, once started it runs and idles fine. I mentoned this in another post however, say the buggy is sitting there at idle and you grab the roll bar above the drivers seat and give it a slight shake the motor dies.....have no clue about that one. Yes initial starting is the problem

BuggyMaster · #7 01-21-2010, 04:17 PM

Once you have changed the jetting, the whole thing about having to give it a little gas to get it to start is not that uncommon and I consider it normal.

The whole thing about the cage is still unusual. As others mentioned in the other thread I'd be looking for bad wiring somewhere but it's hard to say without personally seeing it.

peteeod · #8 01-21-2010, 05:36 PM

ok so needing to give it a little gas to start after re-jetting is not an issue. well I feel better about that. I have checked all the wiring and everything looks fine. We will just have to continue fine tuning and see what happens. Thanks again for all the help

**SYCARMS** · #9 01-21-2010, 11:42 PM

What size jet did you use to rejet and were any other mods done? TOM

bige · #10 01-22-2010, 07:36 AM

if you removed the choke housing from the carb when you rejeted then check the 3 o-rings that are behind the housing to make sure they are still in place

peteeod · #11 01-22-2010, 03:16 PM

sycarms, originally i re-jetted to a 130 and discovered it to be too rich. we stepped down to a 122.5 and the plug looks much better. I have posted it before that the carb came with a 108, yes a 108.....
bige the o-rings are there

**SYCARMS** · #12 01-22-2010, 04:27 PM

You may want to check your float level . If the level is set to low this would cause the problem of stahling out when you shake the buggy. You may also want if not already done, to check the valve lash. Valves out of adjustment will cause a hard start problem. TOM

olderthan · #13 02-04-2010, 10:01 PM

when i ran the stock carb after rejetting i always gave a little gas to start
then it would idle fine and my autochoke worked well
with my 30 cv pumper now my autochoke works well but i still give a littie gas when starting--i have always thought maybe it helps because just turning on the fuel petcock
has air trapped in line after 1st start of the day is the only time i do it
olderthan

speedracer · #14 03-25-2010, 02:54 PM

ya mine does the same thing. i need to push in the gas to get it started then once its started it idils fine bust it doesnt have any power... it doesnt go over 20mph when it should be around 50mph. it keeps staling out when its running. ive asked so many people, even mechanics and no one seems to know the problem. I NEED HELP!

Stock 150cc Carbide

PAbuggy · #15 03-25-2010, 03:38 PM

The first mod i did was a manual choke.I had the same trouble starting my carbide after rejetting.I put a bigger pilot jet in and problem went away

speedracer · #16 03-25-2010, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ckau

If it is disconneted, hook it back up. It is not choke as such. Chokes normally cut off the air flow to richen the mix for starting. This carb has a 'Fuel Enrichner. This is a fuel circut in the carb monitored by a needle valve. This valve opens to add more fuel to the mix for startng. The needle is moved by a thermal solonoid [the black thing on the side of the carb with wires]. The needle valve stays normally open to richen the mix when cold. As the motor warms , the needle moves down to close off the circut , the fuel mix then goes to a normal ratio for running. When the motor cools the needle opens again , ready for the next start. Removing the solonoid or disconnecting the wires causes the circut to stay open all the time, keeping the fuel mixture too rich, causing flooding, poor performance and fouled plugs. your having to start your buggy like a flooded car, pedal to the floor.
You can test the enrichener by removing it from the carb while the motor is cold, lay it down next to a ruler, position the needle by some number, connect the wires to a low amp 12 volt source, a battery charger, then watch the needle extend. should extend around 3/16ths. disconnect the power, the needle will contract. if not? replace it. If it works and is in place on the carb, check for a bad connection in the buggy wire harness. It's important that this solonoid gets power at all times.

what if i did all this and it still doesnt work?

JakeTheSnake · #17 03-26-2010, 02:30 PM

If everything on the carb is hooked back up and you're still having the shaking the rollbar problem, you may want check the connectors on your kill switch. I had a similar problem with mine on the bouncing around, at first thought it was fuel related, but it ended up being the connectors to the kill switch, soldered em' up at both the dash and the electric box, problem solved!