THE PARTS...ARE...IN!!!!, but...

[joshstep1]

FINALLY! They're in! The long, hard battle is over! A little while ago, I also got to test drive it! (WOOHOOOO!) The added torque is awesome! I was doing burnouts on the street, but the street was wet, but it was still awesome drifting out of turns! The top speed is not that big of a drop either. Before the mods, I could hit 47MPH, after, it tops out at about 42MPH, not that bad to me. I can definately tell I'm hitting the rev limiter though, a no rev limiter will probably be the next mod. This is not the "official" review, that will come when I take the buggy to Turkey Bay,and take on some steep hills. So by now you're probably wondering where the "but" is. The "but" is that after about two minutes of awesome driving, the buggy would not run past an idol. It would run perfectly at an idol, but if I gave it just enough throttle to got the wheels moving a little, it would cause it to die! UGHHHHHH!!! I had to tow the darn thing back home! I'm so frustrated! So, now I'm wondering what you guys think could be causing it to die.

[24evanwilson]

depends on the air dampness and temp. they need a higher turn in cold air but in warmer air you can turn it down

usually in the fall you'll be turnin it up lol

[joshstep1]

turning what up?

[BuggyMaster]

did you put a jet in it? You are describing what a plugged jet will do.

[joshstep1]

I put a brand new 130 in it

[joshstep1]

do you think it could be debris in the carb?

[24evanwilson]

i think so lol but thats just me

[joshstep1]

so, just take the carb apart, clean the jets, and make sure everything is clean?

[BuggyMaster]

First pull the plug and see what it looks like. Take pic if you can and post it then I'll tell you what I'd do next.

[joshstep1]

heres the plug. its not a new one. its the one that came with it. my parents dont get the fact that you have to have a new plug in it for checking the richness/leanness

[BuggyMaster]

You use a new plug because an old one has all the burn characteristics of what it was doing before the mods and after. A new plug will only have the characteristics of what it's doing since the new mods. If it is running lean, a new plug will show a white looking tip. If you are using the old plug, the tip already looks like what it has been since it has been in there and you can't really tell if it is running lean (or rich for that matter) because of the mods.

None the less, if you are stepping on the gas and it is falling on its face, you are going to have to pull that carb off and pull that main jet to make sure it is wide open. I suspect there is a piece of trash in it.

[joshstep1]

Thats kinda what I was thinking. Ill do that in a little bit

[bige]

check the pilot jet also, it dosent take much to clog it

[joshstep1]

thanks for the advise bige, Ill clean them both out

[joshstep1]

this pic was taken with the kart at an idol. isnt that black plunger thing supposed to be all the way down?

[bige]

yes it is, it moves up as rpm and vacumn increases

[joshstep1]

i guess that was stuck, i got it back into place and ive cleaned the jets in the carb. I still have to put the carb back on and test it

[joshstep1]

ITS FIXED! the stuck plunger was the problem.

[bige]

[joshstep1]

It is awesome that it is fixed, but, who's to say this couldn't happen again? That would suck if it happened while I was trail riding! miles away from the entrance.

[BPNWMike]

If it gets stuck like that, you should be able to just take the velocity stack off right there in the field and use your fingers to pop the plunger loose. Bring a small flathead screwdriver or a socket wrench with an 8mm socket with you for loosening the clamp on the stack.

Glad to hear it all works like you wanted it to. A stock spark plug (NGK part #CR7HSA) should be available locally for $3-5. They're pretty common.

When you're ready for the CDI, just let us know!

[joshstep1]

But Buggy parts NW doesn't have one for the ASW Carbide, but ********* has one. As for the spark plug, I'm having a little bit of trouble finding that. Ill check an auto store later, but not advanced auto because they irritated me yesterday.

[BPNWMike]

Doesn't have the CDI? Is yours a DC CDI with 3 (or 4) wires going to the 4-pin connector and only 1 wire to the 2-pin connector?

I actually happen to have one DC CDI in stock right now that I could send you if you want to get it.

I really need to update the site! Think I'll go do that now!

[joshstep1]

LOL about updating the site. Yes, my Carbide uses a DC powered CDI.

[BuggyMaster]

That is a very odd problem with the slide sticking. You didn't have the apart at any time when you were jetting did you?

[joshstep1]

Nope. Whats the purpose of it?

[BuggyMaster]

It aids in the regulation of the air coming in. That's why it was dying. As soon as you cracked the throttle it was getting massive air to which it doesn't have a good mix for.

[joshstep1]

but if it was getting too much air, why was it running a perfect idol?

[BuggyMaster]

cause at idle, that throttle blade was closed. As soon as you crack it open (thus take it off idle), with that slide all the way up, the air comes rushing in.

[joshstep1]

okay, that make sense

[mgolden94]

this exact thing happened to me with my 150cc carter gokart. i probably will happen again so here is what you do. unscrew the top of your carb. there should be four screws there. once the top is off, you should see a black rubber thing that takes up most of the top of the carb. pull that out. there is a needle at the bottom of that which when you are running on the pilot jet plugs up a little hole in the bottom of the carb, and when you hit the gas to let in more fuel and air, that needle gets stuck therefore you are trying to run the cart off the pilot jet and not te main jet. your problem is that the thing that holds the needle in that bubber thing is broken. turn the rubber thing upside down and a little metal disc with a hole in it should come out. take that and then pull the needle out of the bottom of the rubber. now you need to get some soder, and soder ther disc back on the top of the needle where there should be a groove for it to fit perfectly. after you soder it, u need to stick that needle down thru the top of the rubber part and out thru the bottom. the piece u sodered will keep the needle from clogging that hole every time u go to hit the throttle. make sure the needle is in that hole at the bottom of the carb which u can see by simply looking down, and then put the rummber thingy back in. screw on the top of the carb again. and fire it up.

[mgolden94]

u may need to pull out a plug like thing from the rubber thing to get the little metal disc out***

[joshstep1]

why couldnt i just take the air intake off, take a pair of needle nose pliers, and pull the little metal rod down and back into place?

[mgolden94]

you could, but it would just fall again. keep in mind, when you are running off your pilot jet at idle, the needle is SUPPOSED to be there, its when u put ur foot on the gas that it lifts up letting in more gas and air. when that little hole is clogged, it tells your motor to try to run off your pilot jet, which takes you right back to idle. when it happend to me, i could hit the gas and get to a slow roll, but if i touched the pedal more than about a half an inch, it would just go back to idle. i didnt explain it well, ill try again.



1. unscrew four screws on top of carb.
2. locate the large black rubber bladder.
3. pull it out.
4. pull the needle out of the bladder through the bottom of the bladder.
5. pull the "center" out of the bladder. (idk what to call it)
6. there should be a small metal disc inside with a hole in it.
7. put disc on needle while it is unnatched to anything, in youre hand or whatever. make sure disc is secured on the ring that is machined into the top of the needle.
8. soder it in place.
put needle down through top of bladder down through the bottom where it will stay suspended because u have reattached the disc.
9. put the "center" so to speak back into the bladder.
10. put bladder back in carb and put back in the four screws. you should be ready to go!

[joshstep1]

Okay, thanks for the advise.

[mgolden94]

yepp

[joshstep1]

Hey Mike, how much is that DC CDI you offered me?

[BPNWMike]

$49.95 shipped

[joshstep1]

is it a high performance or no rev?

[BPNWMike]

yes and yes

[joshstep1]

so you have both?

[BPNWMike]

The DC CDI that I have available is both a high performance/no rev limit CDI for $49.95 with free shipping.

[joshstep1]

But, as I believe, a high performance limits the engine to 9000 RPMs and a no rev, as its name suggests, does not limit the engine at all, right?

[BPNWMike]

There is a level that your engine will top out at, and that is often determined by the weight of the sliders or rollers.

A "No rev limit" CDI simply has no artificial ceiling built into it where it will cut off at a certain RPM.

With your 10g sliders you'll probably be maxxing out somewhere in the mid-8000's if you're at wide open throttle.

Your engine will NOT keep revving up until it explodes!

[joshstep1]

Okay, Ill have to ask my parents if I can buy it, but I'll get back to you later.

[24evanwilson]

ILL see too lol

[joshstep1]

Are you thinking about upping the CDI in yours?

[24evanwilson]

im thinkin a lot about different mods for my buggy

[joshstep1]

what else are you thinking about?