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  #1  
Old 01-20-2011, 10:35 AM
hilljack hilljack is offline
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Default hammerhead 150

Have 150 hammerhead can't get start.Replaced the old dirty carb.and have spark.Replace carb.after a real dusty trip and it was running badly .It seems to be get gas fine but with new carb but still no go?Any ideas of what may be wrong.
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Old 01-20-2011, 06:26 PM
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How do you verify that it's getting gas to the new carb and that it's getting spark?
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Old 01-20-2011, 07:47 PM
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I have pulled the plug and can see spark but haven't check it beyond that.And I am getting gas to the carb,but not sure how much.I set the airmixture screw at 2 1/4 to 2 3/4. but need a few points more to check.
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Old 01-20-2011, 08:05 PM
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Do you have any starting fluid or carb cleaner?

If it is a fresh carb, it won't start instantly. You have to get the fuel bowl full first so some times it takes a few (or more) tries.
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Old 01-20-2011, 08:38 PM
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Check the fuel in the carb by unscrewing the screw in the very bottom of the bowl(screw usually point sideways)this will flow fuel thru the bowl and you can verify that it's flowing properly.I usually set the air/fuel mix screw at about 1-1/2 out to start with.What color was the spark?
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:08 PM
hilljack hilljack is offline
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I have a blue spark from the plug.I was going to get a new high pro coil and a new intake may have a crack or something.
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:40 PM
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Ditto check for fuel in the bowl. Also do you have a fuel petcock at the tank, or do you have the vacume operated fuel pump?

Tom
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:55 PM
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If you have blue spark you're good!!!No need for a better coil just yet.Your intake is rubber coated aluminum and may looked cracked-the rubber where the carb inserts is all rubber and can develope a crack,so check there first.
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:18 AM
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I opened the bottom of the carbs and fuel flows out and have spark .Adjusted carb to 1 1/2 turns still wouldn't start.I may look into kill switch .Maybe it stuck or a ground or something.I work this week and may have to wait til weekend to look into others areas.
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Old 01-24-2011, 11:34 AM
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If fuel comes out the bottom, that simply means that fuel is getting into the bowl. It has to get through the jets to get into the engine. Not likely a kill switch problem if you have spark. Shoot a little shot of either or carb cleaner through the carb and try it. If it fires, your jets are likely clogged up.
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Old 01-24-2011, 12:39 PM
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Ditto on what BuggyMaster has just posted. If you have fuel in the bowl and a bright blue consistant spark, you have eliminated ignition in which the kill switch is part of and fuel supply to carb. Next you would check jets and passages in carb. As stated in previous post try a shot of starting fluid. One more note. Go to autozone and educate yourself on the now differant kinds of starting fluid. I had always in the past just purchased the cheapest fluid. The last 2 cans, I found myself using a lot to get stubborn equiptment to start. I was at AutoZone one day and needed some . They had a bunch on display of the same brand but prices differed. I compared and come to find that the cheap stuff now is only a small percent ether whereas the more costly was 98% ether. I purchased the better and when I give it a shot the engine starts right up.

Tom
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Old 01-28-2011, 08:22 AM
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I have tried starting fluid and no go.I have got my compression test kit back and checked it and it was only 50 to 60 PSI.So I may look in to that now.My boys had it out and ran it really hard they said so I may have bad rings and or piston in it now.Is the 155 cc cylinder kit worth the buy or should i stick with oem parts
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:37 AM
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If you need a cylinder then just replace it with a 155 kit. Put 3-4 squirts of engine oil in the cylinder and recheck the compression making sure throttle is full open. Note any differance in compression. If compression rises the rings are bad if not problem will be with valves or cam.

Tom
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:22 PM
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Default bad rings

I have looked into my buggy and the rings are bad .So I have got me a big bore 155 kit ,But I have seen a 4 valve head kit with cam and everything I need to replace whole top end.Has anyone tried on of these kit and are the worth getting.they are by Ruima.
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:23 PM
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I am not familiar with the Ruima brand. There are good and bad 4 valve heads out there. The good ones are pricey. The cheaper 4 valve heads will not give you any more performance then a large valve head. They also have a bad oil circuit design, after time the cam and fowlers wear due to lack of oil especially when engine is run at high rpm's. Cams and fowlers are not available so the only correction is to replace with a new head. The good heads are designed and made in Taiwan. Better materials are used and they have a better oiling system. The newest style head has been redesigned to accept the larger valves.These heads are identicle to the ones used in the SYM motors, used in the Adly and late Carter brothers buggies and scooters. I can tell you from experience. My first 4 valve is still in use after 6 years of abuse. I purchased a cheaper Chinese 4 valve head for my sons buggy and about a year later the cam and fowlers had worn. The cam had actually flaked causing excessive wear to the cylinder and oil pump. A good 4 valve head will out perform the most moded 2 valve head, but expect to pay $400.00 and up for the good head. You would be better off buying a 2 valve large port performance head with a port and polish then the cheap line of 4 valve heads. If you have any other questions feel free to give me a call 662-301-1563

Tom
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