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  #1  
Old 03-07-2011, 01:07 PM
dkelley5 dkelley5 is offline
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Default Baja Reaction 150cc electrical problem

I have a Baja Reaction 150cc that didnt run when i got it. I got it runnung with a new stator and had to get a regulator/rectifier to get the battery to charge. The problem i have is im only getting 7.4 VDC output where all the 12 VDC components tie together. The 7.4 VDC is with everything disconnected except the stator and the rectifier/regulator. I know this is suppossed to be 12 VDC. Initially i thought i had gotten a cheap regulator because it didnt come from the manufacturer. I got a new one from them and the battery doesnt charge with it connected and ive only got 5 VDC. The manufacturer gave up on me, please someone help.

Last edited by dkelley5; 03-07-2011 at 06:21 PM.
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:29 AM
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Suggestion:
Remove the battery, give a full charge and test.
Check and clean wire connections, especially ground at the engine.
Install battery and retest system.
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:11 AM
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Make sure the ground wires on the stator, rectifier, battery and engine are all making clean contact. You may have a floating ground due to broken/dirty connections resulting in those readings.
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:29 PM
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Thanks for the reply guys. Ive taken the battery off and charged then tested. Battery is strong.(fairly new)I've gone through the grounds and basically all connections one at a time. With everything reconnected i get 4.2 volts. If i start taking things loose while running like the lead to the lights and the electric choke the voltage moves to 5.4 volts. Do you think the battery could be too small? It was replaced by someone else and im not sure if its correct. 12V 4AH is whats there.
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkelley5 View Post
Thanks for the reply guys. Ive taken the battery off and charged then tested. Battery is strong.(fairly new)I've gone through the grounds and basically all connections one at a time. With everything reconnected i get 4.2 volts. If i start taking things loose while running like the lead to the lights and the electric choke the voltage moves to 5.4 volts. Do you think the battery could be too small? It was replaced by someone else and im not sure if its correct. 12V 4AH is whats there.
Ive found out that this buggy needs a 7 to 9AH battery. Do you think that by swapping the battery that will bring the voltage up?
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:49 PM
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Stock is 7Ah and I run a 14Ah on my 150's - Yes, your battery is too small.
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Old 03-08-2011, 08:38 PM
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Check battery voltage with battery disconnected, it should be no less then 12.7V. Connect the battery and check the voltage again. If voltage drops more than .2V then you have a draw on the system. If your voltage is 12.5 or more, start engine and checking at the battery bring up the RPM's to about 1800 or until clutch starts to grab. You should read 13.8 volts or more depending on the state of battery charge. The small battery will not cause it not to charge if it is indeed a 12V battery and not a 6V. You may want to check that it is a 12V battery. Also I have seen it many times before where the battery polarity was backwards, this will fry the stator if done.
Check it in the manor I have told you and post your results then we can go from there.

TOM
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:43 AM
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4Ah is pretty weak. Both of mine have 9AH batteries.

Something else you might want to try is to take the battery out of the kart, charge it up good, test the voltage, and while you still have your multimeter on the battery, put a load (like headlight or anything else you have thats 12V) on the battery and see if the voltage drops substantially. If so, you've got a bad battery.

Only reason I say this is because I had a car battery that would charge up 100% according to my battery charger, but if I put the slightest load - even an inverter with nothing plugged into it - the voltage would drop to nothing. Needless to say the battery appeared good and fully charged, but couldn't start the car (or even power the dome light).

Battery voltage doesn't tell the entire story. Thats why good battery testers put a big load on a battery to emulate starting, then read the voltage while under a load. if you've got bad cells in your battery, your battery could be charging up to 12V, but over a short period of time the bad cells will consume power from the good cells, and actually drain itself.

Also, another note, you might already know this, but it's extremely hard on a lead acid battery when it's not charged up for a period of time. Even if the battery goes down to just 10V, it's destructive, and if left that way for a week, that battery will likely be toast.

here's a good chart...



sorry, this might be more info than you're wanting, but I find batteries very interesting and -it sounds nerdy - but enjoy reading about and messing with batteries.
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYCARMS View Post
Check battery voltage with battery disconnected, it should be no less then 12.7V. Connect the battery and check the voltage again. If voltage drops more than .2V then you have a draw on the system. If your voltage is 12.5 or more, start engine and checking at the battery bring up the RPM's to about 1800 or until clutch starts to grab. You should read 13.8 volts or more depending on the state of battery charge. The small battery will not cause it not to charge if it is indeed a 12V battery and not a 6V. You may want to check that it is a 12V battery. Also I have seen it many times before where the battery polarity was backwards, this will fry the stator if done.
Check it in the manor I have told you and post your results then we can go from there.

TOM
Disconnected the battery from the system. Checked voltage and got 12.78 Volts. Re-connected battery and checked voltage again. Voltage held steady at 12.78 Volts. Started engine, took another reading from the battery with the engine rpm right at clutch engagement and got a reading of 14.3 to 14.35 Volts. All seems normal except where the red lead comes out of the regulator and ties to the other hot leads, I get 4.5 volts. When i disconnect everything from there except for the regulator and stator wires, it moves to 5.5 volts. Double checked battery size (12V 4AH) and made sure polarity was correct.
Any more input would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:04 PM
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The voltage you got at the battery with engine running shows the system is charging. I'm not sure of exactly where you are checking to get the 4.5 - 5.5 volts, all I can figure is that you are checking the voltage on the AC volt side before being converted to DC volts. But from the voltage at the battery while engine is running you are deffinately charging.

TOM
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:04 PM
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hey guys really stupid question to ask i have 2 fuel lines coming from the petrol tank and one of them splits into 2 and i havent a clue which one goes where its a 150cc moto rama
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Old 03-09-2011, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYCARMS View Post
The voltage you got at the battery with engine running shows the system is charging. I'm not sure of exactly where you are checking to get the 4.5 - 5.5 volts, all I can figure is that you are checking the voltage on the AC volt side before being converted to DC volts. But from the voltage at the battery while engine is running you are deffinately charging.

TOM
There is a bundle of red wires all crimped together. In that bundle is a wire to the voltage regulator, a wire to the stator, a wire to the electric choke, a wire to the taillight and a wire to the headlights. All red and crimped together. Im pretty sure this should be 12 VDC due to the fact that all the bulbs are 12 Volts and these wires go from the crimp directly to each component. The buggy runs fine and the battery stays charged but none of the lights work and the bulbs have been checked.
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:12 PM
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I located a wiring diagram for your buggy. You have 4 wires to the rectifier, 2 yellow, a red and a green. The green goes to system ground, both yellow come off the stator to the rectifier with one spliced to power the choke and light switch,the red splices off with one side going to the ignition switch, and the other going through the inline fuse then to the battery. Some Einstein tried to play electrician. You can e-mail me and I'll e-mail you the manual with wiring schematic, then sit down one day and rewire it the correct way. This is probably the reason for having to replace the stator. Get yourself a pencil type soldering iron with some shrink tube so as to solder your splices then seal with the shrink tube. You can get the iron and shrink tube from harbor freight, or give me a call and I can try to get you a new harness for the buggy. I would not run it wired like it is or you may burn up the stator and or rectifier.


TOM

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  #14  
Old 03-09-2011, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiff231 View Post
hey guys really stupid question to ask i have 2 fuel lines coming from the petrol tank and one of them splits into 2 and i havent a clue which one goes where its a 150cc moto rama
The line that is split is a vacuum line. It should come from the intake manifold then split to the right side of the carburetor and and the bottom barb of the petcock.

The top line from the petcock is fuel. There should be an inline filter then connect to the left side of the carburetor.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYCARMS View Post
I located a wiring diagram for your buggy. You have 4 wires to the rectifier, 2 yellow, a red and a green. The green goes to system ground, both yellow come off the stator to the rectifier with one spliced to power the choke and light switch,the red splices off with one side going to the ignition switch, and the other going through the inline fuse then to the battery. Some Einstein tried to play electrician. You can e-mail me and I'll e-mail you the manual with wiring schematic, then sit down one day and rewire it the correct way. This is probably the reason for having to replace the stator. Get yourself a pencil type soldering iron with some shrink tube so as to solder your splices then seal with the shrink tube. You can get the iron and shrink tube from harbor freight, or give me a call and I can try to get you a new harness for the buggy. I would not run it wired like it is or you may burn up the stator and or rectifier.


TOM

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Thanks for the help. I think the Einstein was the manufacturer. Ive had them send me wiring diagrahms and schematics for this. With all the description of the buggy and what it says, they say it is a Baja Reaction 150cc. When they sent me the wiring diagrahm, nothing matched. There were other diagrahms in the file and i looked through them and found my exact wiring(everything matches exactly except for i have key and they show push button, and i have no brake switch)in the diagrahm for a DN 150. I know where the buggy came from and nothing has been altered since new. So i dont know if the wrong harness was used from the beginning or what.
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Old 03-10-2011, 03:36 PM
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Thank you for your help Tom. I have a new stator being shipped free of charge, compliments of Scott. Once i get it and have it swapped out, i will post the results. Thanks again.
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Old 03-10-2011, 03:47 PM
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Just for the information. Something i have noticed since i started posting. My voltage output from the stator has slowly dropped from the original output of 7.4 VDC to 4.4 VDC. Also my resistance values have dropped when probbed with a meter. Now that im pretty sure my problem is in the stator (thanks to the help from SYCARMS), its easy to see other evidence pointing out the stator. Feeling good about it, hope this fixes my headache.
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Old 03-11-2011, 08:55 AM
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Keep us posted.

TOM
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Old 03-12-2011, 03:00 PM
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hey were in the world do i find the exuast pipe that the muffler slides onto it has a small pip that turns up and has a hose and a electric pllug on it can anyone help me this is on a fox carbide 150cc they say its the same as a quantam its powered by a 9.9
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Last edited by lonniehall72@yahoo.com; 03-12-2011 at 03:59 PM.
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Old 03-12-2011, 03:39 PM
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Sure we can help but we need to know what buggy you have and which engine.

TOM
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Old 03-12-2011, 04:01 PM
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its a fox carbide with a 9.9 american sportworks says its the same as a quantam. thanks
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Old 03-12-2011, 04:05 PM
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From what I show in there parts index, they do not sell just the pipe but the whole system. I will have to call on Monday to confirm and for a price.

TOM
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Old 03-17-2011, 07:27 PM
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Well, I got my new stator installed today. Got the kart fired up with just a bump of the key, and still have the same voltage problem. I have 7VDC coming out of the stator and rectifier where it should be 12VCD. The stator is new (twice with same result) and the rectifier is new.(Got two and only one charges the system, both are new.) The only other components tied to that system are the CDI and the keyswitch. Thinking of replacing them both and getting yet a third rectifier because of inconsistent results with the two new ones i already got. Any other suggestions?
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Old 05-02-2011, 01:05 PM
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Hey now,,,,If you culd post tht diagram,,
my problem is,the wiring harness was chopped,,,
the black,,and the yellow wires were cut!!
I tied all the black,together,,
and all the yellow together,,,
I feel spark at the plug,,,just not the lightning,,
I can hold the spark plug and not get zapped
WHAT THE _ELL am I doin wrong ????
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Old 05-06-2011, 02:33 PM
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anybody got a pic of the vac and fuel lines for a gy6???
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Old 05-07-2011, 08:41 AM
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The top nipple on the pump is fuel to carb and bottom nipple is to a vacume source.
TOM
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:14 AM
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Have a reaction 150 with electrical problems myself..... everything new but still very low supply voltage to cdi, only 16 volts.
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:46 AM
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Check all your wiring as well as the stator for output.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:47 AM
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Wiring is fine, output from stator to cdi is only 16vac.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:34 PM
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yeah, did you check it at idle or did you rev it up and check? What is the other output voltage reading? the one for charging the battery and running the lights (it should be AC coming out of the stator also).
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:45 PM
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Checked it while cranking, it will not start. Other wires that go to regulator show about 14 volts. Have replaced all but the stator. Still has weak spark
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:08 PM
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yeah, I don't think that is your problem then. you probably wont see the true power the stator is putting out until your up to Idle rpms or more.

Have you checked it for spark? If you take the spark plug out attach it to the boot, and put the end of the plug next to a ground on the frame. If you see a nice spark then the electrics may not be your problem. If you don't get a spark then your problem could be the CDI, the coil, or the plug (given all your connections are good and correct). (didn't see that you have a weak spark, must have over looked it)

Also check the kill switch/ and wires and make sure they are good.
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Last edited by T3beatz; 03-21-2012 at 12:54 PM. Reason: missed something
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:36 AM
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I have been trying to get the info you need to check your ign system, but what I have done many times before I now cannot do. I have a manual my DSL provider will not allow me to send even when zipped it says the file is too big. I have argued with AT&T which says I have the same service as before and they recite a bunch of numbers to me which mean absolutely squat, but I know different because these files were e-mailed to me and I e-mailed many times without zipping. I tried to import the pages needed but that too won't work, seems the later version of adobe and word are also restricting the files I can make. I'm sure there is a way but I cannot afford to go to school again to figure this out. My son who knows much more than I even tried and he too was frustrated. You may check some of the BM files to see if they are already been posted. I had to copy to a flash drive to put it on my lap top since I could not send via e-mail. For me to copie to paper and retype will just take too much time to do. I don't know where you got your 16V from but when checking voltage to the cdi the pos. of tester goes to the B/R on the 2 pin connector and neg. of tester to the grn. on 4 pin connector. Then whilr turning over the engine you should have 122 V AC. However that is only one step of several to determine where the problem is.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkelley5 View Post
Well, I got my new stator installed today. Got the kart fired up with just a bump of the key, and still have the same voltage problem. I have 7VDC coming out of the stator and rectifier where it should be 12VCD. The stator is new (twice with same result) and the rectifier is new.(Got two and only one charges the system, both are new.) The only other components tied to that system are the CDI and the keyswitch. Thinking of replacing them both and getting yet a third rectifier because of inconsistent results with the two new ones i already got. Any other suggestions?
You are not going to get a 12v reading with the engine running, there will be a load on the components, and they are AC not DC. (if I'm not mistaken)

Do you have a switch for the lights? if not then that will be a load on the AC wires. What size lights do you have? 25w,35w, or 55w? the higher the wattage the lower your reading will be on the AC wires powering the lighting system.

The only 12V reading you probably will get is from the starter solenoid, and 1 of the leads from the rectifier/regulator

I think there is only 1 12vdc component on the buggy and that's the starter You can check power for it at the solenoid.

the rest run off of AC power... CDI (ran directly off of the stator),Lights (powered through the regulator).

T.J.
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:01 PM
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Ok buggy is running finally, only part not replaced was the plug, it was bad...go figure. New problem is it wont idle, cold or hot and to get it running I must slightly press the accelerator. Have adjusted the idle speed screw but it stalls just under clutch disengagement.
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Old 03-23-2012, 09:52 PM
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Have you cleaned the carb? sounds as if you can have a dirty pilot jet.
adjusted the air mixture screw on the left, bottom side of the carb just under the other side of the throttle arm (it may or may not have a cover on it depending on how old the carb is).
Also have you adjusted the Valves? They should be .003-.005 thousandths of an inch.
they are under the 4 bolt valve cover under the front of the engine, it's a 20 min job, you will need a feeler gauge.
Get all that done then we can go to the next step if it does not Idle correctly.

T.J.
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:17 AM
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Carb has been cleaned and yes the mixture screw is capped. Just watched the video on YouTube on setting valve clearance. I'll take care that and see what happens. Thanks a bunch. Embarrassing for a small engine mechanic to have so much trouble lol
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:55 PM
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also, make sure your Fuel Enrichment Valve is working correctly. here is an article on what it does and how to check it.

I tried to post a link to a way of testing it but you can't post links from BD here.
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Last edited by T3beatz; 03-24-2012 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 03-24-2012, 02:02 PM
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What process did you use in cleaning the carb?
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:10 PM
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The process reccomended on this site. No dirt or varnish of any kind in the Carb. And no the fuel enrichment is not working, still wont idle when warm
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:08 PM
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I mean did you actually check to see if it is not working, by testing it? you have to remove it and hook it to a 12v battery and see if the needle extends about 3-4mm.
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Yerfdog Spiderbox, Uni Type air filter with 6" intake, 130 jet, Orange no-rev limit cdi, Red coil, iridium plug, 1500rpm clutch springs, 1500rpm contra spring, 13g sliders, 22" rears, 21" fronts, aftermarket reverse installed, and Trailtech Vapor.
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  #42  
Old 03-24-2012, 10:17 PM
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Of course
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  #43  
Old 03-24-2012, 10:21 PM
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Oh, well that could be your problem, get that fixed then. it can break with the plunger extended or with the plunger retracted, either way you will have problems.
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Yerfdog Spiderbox, Uni Type air filter with 6" intake, 130 jet, Orange no-rev limit cdi, Red coil, iridium plug, 1500rpm clutch springs, 1500rpm contra spring, 13g sliders, 22" rears, 21" fronts, aftermarket reverse installed, and Trailtech Vapor.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:08 AM
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SYCARMS SYCARMS is offline
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The only thing I question is if the the choke is inoperative that would solve the cold start, but it should still idle if temps are relatively warm by you, say above 59deg. and especially when the engine is warm. Does the enrichment valve remain in the rest position. If in the rest position the engine should start good since you will be getting a rich mix. The problem would be when engine is warm you will still be running rich. If valve is stuck in the extended position this will give you a cold start problem. If you have a good blue spark then I would still have to say the problem is with vacume or carb. That is provided you have good compression. Still not sure which method you used to clean the carb, but if it has set up any amount of time it may have to be soaked. Sometimes a gummout product works but other times it does not. The small orifices can be blocked even though the carb looks clean. Did you physically look through the pilot jet to make sure it is clear? Had you checked the air bleed diaphram mounted on right side of carb ? Don't mean to be a pain but manytimes to solve a problem one needs all the info to form a picture of what is lacking. Remember you are there and we are elsewhere so your answers are forming the situation we see. Feel free to give me a call and we can try to solve this problem one on one. It is usually one or more simple things that can be easily missed. 662-301-1563

TOM
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