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Mini Buggy General Discussion General Discussion forum for Mini Buggies. (American Sportworks, HammerHead, Carter, etc)

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  #1  
Old 06-03-2010, 08:08 PM
ckau's Avatar
ckau ckau is offline
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while you got the welder out reworking the a-arms, don't ignore the rear. A better handling front end shifts the weak link to the rear. The stock yerf axles are almost as good as the stock ball joints
I collected a barrel full of bent and twisted axles before finding a solution.
changed to a 1" flex proof keyed axle. added outboard bearing suports and a bearing support in the middle of the axle to prevent flex during hard acceration. The chain would actually bend the stock axle back in a hard pull.
I also modified the hubs. I twisted several splined hubs off also.
the center bearing support can be seen in the second pic.
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  #2  
Old 06-03-2010, 08:25 PM
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olderthan olderthan is offline
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i like your mods tell me about your rear shocks it looks like you are using
2 dif springs. i am working with 18 1/2 polaris shocks for my front but on
use they are bottoming out sometimes going down to aprox 12" i have been
puting back on my punishers while trying to work out another helper spring
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olderthan
2008 tomberline punisher
1500 spring 12g sliders
30mm cv pumper carb
uni filter no rev cdi
polaris xlt snowmobile shocks for front
w/550 magnum springs & blaster fronts on rear
and another buggy built working on mods gk-13
white spring 17 gram sliders so far
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Old 06-04-2010, 04:13 AM
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ckau ckau is offline
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the shocks are a progressive rate gas from Works. The black spring does 90% of the work, the white is considerably stiffer, kicks in during hard hits. It's like a shock absorber for the shock. won't allow the shock to bottom out hard enough to damage the shock or chassis.
All the rear shocks I tried were way too stiff for the light yerf chassis. You felt every little bump, dip and pebble in the trail. They all would rebound at a rate fast enough to kick the rear up during air time. pitching the nose down. The valving in these controls the rebound effect.
the performance gains are remarkable. Unfortunately, they are very pricey!
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:21 PM
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T3beatz T3beatz is offline
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subscribed, I like the mods... also I like the break setup you have, is that a standard sink or toilet connection going into the caliper? does it improve breaking over that stock break line with the small hole? Thanks for the help.
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Old 02-03-2012, 08:03 AM
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x-bird x-bird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckau View Post
the shocks are a progressive rate gas from Works. The black spring does 90% of the work, the white is considerably stiffer, kicks in during hard hits. It's like a shock absorber for the shock. won't allow the shock to bottom out hard enough to damage the shock or chassis.
All the rear shocks I tried were way too stiff for the light yerf chassis. You felt every little bump, dip and pebble in the trail. They all would rebound at a rate fast enough to kick the rear up during air time. pitching the nose down. The valving in these controls the rebound effect.
the performance gains are remarkable. Unfortunately, they are very pricey!

I was wondering if you tried or knew of anyone who has tried these Fox shocks? The ad listed them as Arctic Cat 550 EXT, my local dealer looked up the year and model in his book and found no parts listing for them and felt they were an upgrade, but i've come across other sale listings for them stating the same sled. IIRC mid to late 90s. IFP in the remote and typical shim stack valving. I've rebuilt them since the pics were taken. I won't be able to "test" them for about a month (til the yerf is finished) My fear is that the springs may be too soft and tightening them up will lose much of the progressive rate advantage. Otherwise, with 125 psi in them right now, they feel really nice--but no way to tell until it's ride time. They seem to be a fairly common shock in the used market.
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